Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/2017 in all areas

  1. Those are the same belts I use and I'm reminded of aspirin. When you go to the store and a bottle aspirin costs $10, it's irritating. When you have a headache, you'll gladly pay $10 per pill. These belts seems like a silly extravagance, but there are zero headaches when you're changing drivers. They tighten AND loosen so easily our driver changes are 45 seconds quicker.
    5 points
  2. $12 bucks a race (5 years, 5 race weekends a year) costs less than a jug of gas. Pretty cheap insurance in my book.
    3 points
  3. The Enduros are Profi IIs as well , but with the better roller adjusters and quick grab adjustments. They feature the same level of safety, the enduros are just super easy to adjust.
    2 points
  4. Yes sir. 5 in the front and 4 in the back. That was the inconvenience price we paid to save 25 points for not swapping the rear axle. Cobra brakes on the front and TBird in the rear for discs all around. Much easier to put 5 bolt with Aerostar/Ranger axles in back with SN rear discs but I couldn't afford the points hit under previous rules. I could have complained endlessly on the forum but didn't feel that was a battle worth fighting as it would really only benefit a few cars.
    2 points
  5. So @Hi_Im_Will, did you go away from the steelies? I detest spacers for 2 reasons: 1) The Focus already has an inherent problem with weak hubs. I've alleviated that issue with aftermarket hubs I had made. 2) I don't like what the spacers do for scrub radius. One of the positive things on the Focus is the zero scrub front end geometry, which makes for precise turn in characteristics. The knuckle/strut is designed so that we can run 6.125" of backspacing. That equates to a +49mm offset on stock width (7") wheels, and +25mm on a 9" wheel. (We currently run 225/45/17's on 7.5" wide wheels, +42mm offset, 6.08" BS) I know of someone running 15" x 10"s with 275/35/15 tires - but I'd like to stay with the 17"s due to the limited wide tire choices in 15" or 16", and ability of the wheels to clear big stock rotors (11.8") and calipers. (I ran into all the same issues years ago when building a SCCA GT3 chassis, where we are limited to 15" x 7" wheels fitting over 12" rotors. I also designed a zero scrub radius front end geometry for that car...) (Note: I HAVE found 17"x9" Rota's with +18mm offset, but ideal would be +25mm)
    2 points
  6. Being successful in anything is sometimes adding up all the little things. I use the enduros on the cruiser. After all a top shelf race car needs top shelf components. The enduros are very nice. Driver changes are stress free. If your car ventures out of Chump it's almost a must. Omp makes a belt very very similar.
    2 points
  7. I'm just wondering what cleaning root vegetables has to do with tires.
    2 points
  8. Does your wife have a single sister?? Tempted to submit my resume to you for Daytona just to see how a Bimmer drives.. You wouldn't tell my friends, right?
    2 points
  9. Steelies are lug-centric. I use a 1" wheel spacer bolted to the wheel for balancing. The center hole is never anywhere near the center, and is for clearance only. Also, at 21lb ea, the bassett 15x10s aren't light, but not terrible for an $83 wheel either.
    1 point
  10. I surprised there are no bites on this for 2k. good seller.
    1 point
  11. I still have emails out to a secret Chinese company to make 60 slicks in a 255-40/15 size, obviously 200Tw
    1 point
  12. It's interesting how much the budget endurance racing has influenced tire availability. Go back 5 years and you couldn't get much for options wider than about 215 for a 15".
    1 point
  13. Definitely looking forward to the second run of the Purple Neon. Last fall was our first run in chumpcar and a big learning experience. Now if I can just figure out how to but the car back together by April...
    1 point
  14. Thanks Will - all good points that I agree with... I'm flashing back to the early 90's when I built the GT3 car. We didn't have the Internet back then, so I cut a few aluminum templates of the cross section of our rotor/caliper combination and sent them to several wheel manufacturers to see if they could fit a 15"x7" wheel with 5.75" BS Over the template. Mounting the slicks on them is an adventure even today... Advantages of running on 15's would lower our ride height as you stated, and will also allow us to use gears 2-5, which are closer ratios than 1-4.... ?
    1 point
  15. WTF is that? An Indycar starter?
    1 point
  16. We'll miss you Crank Yankers! While we don't often interact with you guys at the events, you've earned our respect and trust on the track. You have a great group of drivers and we'll miss having you guys at the track. Conundrum... But maybe we won't miss getting passed by you guys so often.
    1 point
  17. No, I'm still on steelies. The XXR was the leading option for bigger tires before the maxxis 245/40R15 was announced. A 255/40R17 raises the ride height of the E30 - It was impossible to keep ride height where it was and have any more than .5" of jounce travel. Preferred to keep the ride height than take the extra little bit of width. 6.125" is a ton of backspacing - I'm jealous. With that much, there's a lot more wheel options - I found the XXR because it was the smallest offset we could find - the E30 only allows 5" BS. If you can fit a 15, steelies are a good option, since you can have whatever width and backspacing you want. Extending the track width is good for grip, but if you're already having hub issues, keep those wheels tucked in tight. You also reduce the tire diameter over the 17s, which helps keep the car low while keeping the suspension closer to its design position. Now that there's 3 different options for 245/40R15, it's really become an attractive option for a lot of cars.
    1 point
  18. You can get Rivals up to 335mm at tire rack. If everyone likes big tires, just go the biggest and be done with it.
    1 point
  19. So long as they're FIA or SFI certified, we don't care about the lock style. There are no plans to change that.
    1 point
  20. Most tires like a bit of stretch, makes them much easier to drive at the limit. When the tire is stretched slightly, there is much less room for the tread to move around relative to the rim, making the sidewall feel stiffer, without the bumpiness you get from actually using a stiffer sidewall. The recommend rim from the mfg is chosen for load carrying capacity, not grip, so you can often go quite a bit wider with the wheel. For chump-sized tires, we've found that about a quarter inch of stretch per inch of sidewall height is about ideal. Use the tread width (not section width) from mfg to determine: 205/50R15 Direzza ZII* Tread width: 7.2" OD: 23.1" Sidewall height = (OD-ID)/2 = (23.1-15)/2 = 4.05 Stretch = sidewall height / 4 = 1.01" Ideal rim = tread width + stretch = 8.2" So a 205/50R15 ZII* likes a 8" rim 255/40R17 RE71R Tread width: 8.9" OD: 25" Sidewall height = (OD-ID)/2 = (25-17)/2 = 4.00 Stretch = sidewall height / 4 = 1.0" Ideal rim = tread width + stretch = 9.9" So a 255/40R17 RE71R likes a 9.75" or 10" rim 245/40R15 Hankook RS4 Tread width: 9.1" OD: 22.5" Sidewall height = (OD-ID)/2 = (22.5-15)/2 = 3.75 Stretch = sidewall height / 4 = 0.93" Ideal rim = tread width + stretch = 10.03" So a 245/40R15 RS4 likes a 10" rim And for @mender's case: Falken Azenis RT615k 275/40R17 (informed guess on which tire) Tread width: 9.7" OD: 25.6" Sidewall height = (OD-ID)/2 = (25.6-17)/2 = 4.30 Stretch = sidewall height / 4 = 1.08" Ideal rim = tread width + stretch = 10.78" That tire would be happiest on at least a 10.5" rim. No surprise it's squirmy on a 9. Of course, if you're limited by the rims you can find, the only way to get more grip is by going to a wider tire, but you will be giving up driveability to do it.
    1 point
  21. Can you provide a visual to your insight? I have re-read your comment 3x and still not sure what you are suggesting. To your defense, my reading comprehension is below average and my degree in engineer was from a piss poor university.
    1 point
  22. I'm not sure how the marque on the car has anything to do with it. We probably have less into our car than many other teams but safety is one area that we didn't cheap out on. Feel free to run whatever safety equipment you want, hopefully it will all work out for you.
    1 point
  23. We've found 275s to be a bit squirmy on 9" , 255s are more precise which is what we need the rear of a Fiero to be.
    1 point
  24. Added #14 to the stable in the offseason. 1984 BMW 733i (soon to be raced as a 735i).
    1 point
  25. Thank you all, that is kind of where I was going with this post . I did order the adapters for testing that crank yankers racing showed for testing. My plan is to pulls the fenders off a spare Beetle we have out back and splice then to the ones that are on there now to give us the coverage. Bob Mann www.DRVOLKS.com bobtec@comcast.net
    1 point
  26. If you want to win in endurance racing , like Mopar said- its the little things that add up. The Schroth Enduros are worth the money and I even have sprint racers that find it worth while. Speed is one thing but being able to properly tighten the waist belt for each driver/stint is critical.
    1 point
  27. Hello all, Experienced, SCCA licensed driver here hoping for a seat (single stint) at Daytona. I don't mind driving in the rain, at night, etc, but am a new father so just trying to keep the price down, so likely would only be doing one stint. I'm an experienced wrench with my own car as well and have crewed professionally as well as on a club level, so not afraid of pitching in. Easy on equipment, self-sufficient and able to provide videos and references. I'm located in Tampa Bay, so can get to the track fairly easily. Just seeing what's out there currently, so feel free to drop me a PM or text. Thanks for your interest. -George N. (352) 257-1897
    1 point
  28. Were cheap, but the Schroth enduro (or Profi II) belts were the best investment we made in a long time. We have pull downs, but with the adjuster right at the camlock, and 2" lap belts, they are super easy to tighten. We nailed our 3 minute fuel and driver change pitstops in AER, no doubt in large part to the simplicity and ease of these belts.
    1 point
  29. $2,000 or best offer. That's way cheaper than you can build a car for. You can even swap a KLZE in and stay under 500 points. Here is the car at Watkins last year:
    1 point
  30. Next thing you know, they will be putting fenders on Indycars! Wait, what? Too late... (I'd put a picture here for emphasis, but linky brokey... for me and @Hi_Im_Will at least...)
    1 point
  31. Sure, if she wants to make more I'll buy a batch. Like everybody else our guys loved them. S.
    1 point
  32. I'll add another thank you "dang tasty " and appreciated ,you have a good gal there ..
    1 point
  33. I'm pretty sure @Mopar 4 Life had these in his pt cruiser when I was in it. They were mind blowing nice. The lap belts were pull up and the shoulders pull down. Why all belts aren't like that is beyond me. I'm pretty sure he got some similar OMP belts for the Neon from Perry Automotive ( @bbqman) who always has great deals.
    1 point
  34. nix that. $600. https://www.schrothracing.com/products/profi-ii#2641
    1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. I was going to come and volunteer, but a driver of mine wants to do Mid Ohio on Monday so I will be staying home getting ready for that race on the Monday. I love Road America! I always make sure I do that track one time a year. I will be there in the fall for the Chumpionship.
    1 point
  37. I think the @enginerd is sitting this one out, so I am not running at this race. I will be racing the full track later this year. I have only run the novice/24 hours of Lemons/Chump course so far. I plan to be very respectful of the kink.
    1 point
  38. Hello, I know there was an incident with a G-Force harness at one of the FSAE competitions. The vehicle caught fire and driver was unable to unlatch the belts, a safety worker had to cut the harness to get the driver out of the vehicle while it was still on fire. Just writing about this makes the hair on my neck stand. While the failure isn't completely understood but it is believed that the issue was caused by lacking proper positive retention on a critical bolt of the cam lock mechanism. Like @Hi_Im_Will stated the FIA testing is more stringent. I highly suggest paying extra for FIA belt.
    1 point
  39. Strongly recommend getting an FIA rated belt. FIA requires cycling the latch at least 2500 times to ensure it will work repeatedly, SFI has no requirement. After struggling to unlatch G-force belts in the past, and hearing horror stories of people getting severe burns because the same model of belt stuck in a fire, I am VERY wary of G-force in general and things that won't pass the SFI latch cycling test. Yes, FIA belts are more expensive, but they're worth it for the peace of mind that it's not going to trap you.
    1 point
  40. Chump may offer you no money but renters do.
    1 point
  41. tell that to all the cab drivers that have 400k+ on their Crown Vics...
    1 point
  42. If you want to drive faster...Find Pieter...he'll teach you how to drive FLAT OUT!
    1 point
  43. This is a really really good deal......I would be shot by the fiancée though.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...