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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    This is Chumpcar homie, we don't use dealership prices looks under 2x to me...
  2. 2 points
    Just about the time that I get the 2003 all stripped down a 2004 198,000 mile 3.6L was traded in to the dealership. I've know the customer for years and new that his job had him driving a lot so most of the mileage was highway. All the maintenance was done at my dealership and I had all the records. The owner of the dealership was fully aware of my project and gave me a great deal on this car. The rust on this car was about the same as the 2003 and this car had a sunroof so I didn't see starting over as a good idea. My plan for this car is to take the engine out and freshen it up, sell the automatic transmission, use the limited slip diff, part out the interior and keep a bunch of spare body parts. I used it to check out seat fitment as well.
  3. 1 point
    Someone brought up in another thread about a CTS build so I figured I would share. Just to get a few things out of the way, I know this car is heavy, I know it start out at 530 points, I know it don't have many options as far as shocks go, I know it's an odd ball build. Why did I do this? It's not a BMW #1, and it's what I know #2. I've worked for a Cadillac dealer for 15 years and have been managing the service department for the last 3. I rented a seat in Thing 3PO with Justin Lee and Thing 3 Racing last year and I've been hooked ever since. I sold my 2014 Camaro SS 1LE and bought a rusted out 2003 Cadillac CTS off of Craigslist for $850 and a new car trailer. I've been working on this car for just under a year now and for having rotator cuff surgery in November I feel like I've gotten a lot done. You can follow me on Facebook too: https://www.facebook.com/Daring-Greatly-Racing-137231636746199/ More post to come tomorrow!
  4. 1 point
    This is one of the reasons you see manufacturers trying to get all the accessories off the engine. Everything is going to electrically driven accessories (48V is coming hard). That power had to come from somewhere (engine and batteries), but once those accessories can be controlled completely independent of the engine, they can be operated much more efficiently, and also keep the engine happier. example... http://autoweek.com/article/technology/why-mercedes-new-inline-six-matters-even-if-no-one-sure-when-well-see-it
  5. 1 point
    Allright you guys and gals have a great race weekend ! !!!!! I sure hope one day I'll make it to this great track ..
  6. 1 point
    Good article I found a while back https://ateupwithmotor.com/terms-technology-definitions/gross-versus-net-horsepower/
  7. 1 point
    Splitting unnecessary hairs, HP losses stack up no matter the config, belt dress and mass of the components + cooling (water pump/fan) etc... Most every car guy can feel hp jump when the belts throw (3 min before meltdown)
  8. 1 point
    Yeah, watch the engine masters episode on fan testing. Very eye-opening.
  9. 1 point
    You'd be surprised how many horsepower takes to run the accessories including Fan
  10. 1 point
    I think so? It's been 15 years. Remember the procedure, just not for sure on the brand. You will have to do what we did and test to know for sure. Maybe the problem has been solved. It got so bad for a while, the cup car we bought from AJ Foyt that he ran at his last Brickyard race had a VERY cheated up cell. We had to replace the whole cast filler assembly that holds the check ball. It was ground down to be about 1/8 " wide and in hard crashes the whole thing would break off in the cell and the check ball was rolling around making for a big fire hazard. We found out later that they even ground away on the inside of the liner to make more room and the whole damn liner had to be replaced too. just glad they didn't find it in tech. They charged us $500 at the race trailer for a $300 part because it was race weekend at Vegas. BSR, out of business now. Memories....
  11. 1 point
    It's the opposite with the Fiero valuations, same 150 VPi from '84 to '88 despite the differences: 1. 1984 was 4 cylinder only and had a 10 gallon tank; swap formula uses 2216 lbs as a race weight (I wish!). My V6 swap has a swap value of 392 pts for a total of 542 pts! 2. 1985 saw the introduction of the 2.8 V6 and the GT package; swap formula assumes the base 4 cylinder weight as the starting point despite the intent that the base swap car has to be the highest performance model. 3. 1986 was the first 5 speed; swap formula still uses 1984 base 4 cylinder weight. 4. 1987 got the bigger 11.9 gallon fuel tank; swap formula now uses the V6 GT weight and is close to actual race weight at 2512 lbs. My V6 swap now has a swap value of 83 pts for a total of 233 pts, a change of 309 pts because of the the wrong weight being used in the earlier years. 5. 1988 had the completely redesigned front and rear suspensions. 6. 1989 Fieros don't exist! The result is that '87-88 Fieros are the only ones to be able to run competitively in Chump; earlier years won't be competitive either because of incorrect swap weight, 4 speed transmission, and/or smaller fuel tank. I'm sure there are plenty of other cars on the list that have similar variations. Best is to send your concerns to Mike Chisek and explain what you see as an issue. I petitioned Mike for a VPi number to match the valuation that the MR2s got a while back (from 225? down to 150) and cited actual test data from Road and Track showing that the MR2 had better specs and was faster around a race track than a Fiero GT. He dropped the Fiero value from 175 down to 150 pts.
  12. 1 point
    Looking at the VPI for a Lexus SC300, the cars weight about the same, both available with a manual transmission. The CTS has 30 more HP, but the Lexus has 3.1 more gallons of fuel capacity.
  13. 1 point
    Don't even get me started. I considered pursuing this to see if I could get it bumped to 500, but without the car ever racing how are they going to know what to assign it. I figured I build it, race it, see how it finishes (if at all) and go from there with some hard evidence if there is any. I consider myself a competitive person but I'm also a realist. I've set goals for myself and my team and that number one goal is finish and deliver a fun reliable car that will get us to the end of the race safely. Once I've mastered that I'll worry about points and winning.
  14. 1 point
    Fify. Points don't get adjusted until someone complains. (a big problem with the points stucture)
  15. 1 point
    Who brings a car with "2 step" launch control and a 90mph speed limiter to Daytona?
  16. 1 point
    Always like to see someone doing something different. Look forward to seeing the rest of this build.
  17. 1 point
    This car would be like Smokey and Barney's rich cousin from the City... btw, I only paid $100 bucks for my CTS -V calipers from Oreillys.
  18. 1 point
    The car will be claimed as a 2004 at 530 points to start. Not to beat a dead horse, but I want to build a car that will be reliable, and fun to drive and not have to sacrifice any of that for points. I love the Chump community, but I can't help but feel that the VPI and swap formulas seem to favor some cars more than others. I know Chump is designed to keep the cars competitive within a budget, but the power to weight formula for classing cars appeals more to me. If I show up to a Chump event and get put in EC I'll be fine with that. My first goal is just to finish the damn race. The brake calipers are little over the 2 times rule. A quick google search shows a new CTS-V front caliper at $152 each and a 2004 CTS caliper at $54.00 each. I never understood the 6 lug wheels on the first gen CTS-V. Sure doesn't leave to many wheel options. A lot of guys had the factory wheels widened so they could run a wider tire.
  19. 1 point
    The car has been at Red Mist for a few weeks now. I was told on Saturday that all of the rust is repaired, holes are patched, and cage is starting this week. I figured while the car was out of the trailer it would be the perfect time to protect the floor the trailer. I put down some Rustoleum Epoxy to protect the floor from oil and what ever else the CTS might leak in the future.
  20. 1 point
    The front and rear knuckles on the CTS are the same as the CTS-V knuckles along with most of the suspension minus shocks, springs, and sway bars. New front CTS-V calipers are dirt cheep so I picked up a pair along with a set of used rear calipers. I had a set of 6 piston CTS-V calipers on my 14 SS 1LE and had some issues with brake fluid weeping out of the bleeders when they got hot and eventually I stripped a bleeder and had to install a repair kit. I found that all the other bleeders kept weeping but the bleeder with the repair kit did not. I ended up installing repair kits in all the calipers and had no issues with leaking bleeders after that and have done the same on these calipers. The 2003-2007 CTS came with a 5x115 lug pattern but the CTS-V was a 6 lug so unless I custom drilled rotors for 5x115 there are no rotor options that will work for a 5x115 lug car to use CTS-V brembos. By comparing the hub from a 2003 to a hub from a 2008 I was able to find that the hub will bolt up and the axle shaft will fit but the abs sensors are different. I mocked up a rear wheel with the axle shaft going through the hub, a 2010 Camaro SS rear rotor, and grabbed an 18 inch 5x120 wheel off of a currant generation CTS to make sure it all fit.
  21. 1 point
    The 3.2L and the 5 speed manual only came in the 2003 and some of the 2004 CTS's and nothing else in the states used this powertrain. The 3.2L is a timing belt engine with a strange oil cooler buried deep under two intake manifolds and known to be an issue. The 3.6L LY7 that started coming in the 2004 CTS is used in everything from the CTS to front wheel drive SUV's to front wheel drive sedans. The oil pan and in some cases the timing covers can be a little different, but they are cheep, and have more power and torque. I will be using a 6 speed manual transmission that was used in the CTS from 2004 and carried over to the 2nd gen manual cars as well.
  22. 1 point
    None of us ever do. well, just to add my 2 cents, I have a large amount of passes in 12 to 14 second Honda's. Well over 300. Any B-series engines that fits the rules is going to have a hard time making the necessary power to run 13's. And that 13 flat happened on slicks not 180tw tires, (possibly with an LSD, not an open diff) shifting at 8500-9000rpm, I'm gonna all but guarantee that. which means you'll be plopping down the straightaway, short shifting at say 7000-7500 on an 8500rpm tuned engine and about 20-30hp short as well. BUT, as with all things, who knows, maybe the D.A. was 2000 feet below sea level on that day. Power to weight. You can make a pencil sharpener run in the 10's if you can spin it fast enough. also, you're a gallon of fuel short at 10.9 of what a civic gets11.9 (unless that changed in the rules, I haven't been following along lately). I'm not saying it's impossible, I'm saying you should know what you are up against. Our last (fun drag civic) was putting out 186 to the wheels on a GSR with every bolt on item you could buy and tune for. Here is exactly what an $8000 GSR sounds like at redline on a roadcourse. This was the weekend in 2012 that I gave up on drag racing to go road racing. The appeal of seat time was just to great. This car would run consistent 13-2 to 13.4 and if the air was good like a 13.05@105 shifting at 9200. We eventually put the rods through the block on this very day. That CRX mentioned above may have run a 13 on slicks on a prepared surface banging redline, but you won't be driving it that way in an endurance race on 180tw tires and 10.9 gallons of fuel on a stock tank. That's James Rowen of the Socket Monkeys team in the passenger seat. At this point, in the car, we are 50% of all the Chump and LDRL drivers in the state.... with my son and John being the other 2.
  23. 1 point
    Awe shucks! I just meant that handling is very important at lrp. I have never raced at road america.... yet. It's bucket list for me.
  24. 1 point
    Your team has an outstanding core of drivers and you can flat out wrench. You will be awfully tuff to beat with the chevy motor in your car. You are the quintessential chump car team. Hold on to your gear shifters when these Pa. Boys show up!!!
  25. 0 points
    And there are cars like mine where the weight used was from a european model that had no 5mph bumpers, no chassi reinforcements for the bumpers, no sound deading, and much thinner glass resulting in a weight that is rediculous 1600lbs!??? F-n rediculous! There are lots of models on the chart that dont exist. When i mention this poeple say well you need to file a complaint/petition/protest. I sent an email detailing these errors for VWs and Audi's (didn't discuss values) and they ignored it. So how many times should I send the relevant info the the powers only to have it ignored?
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