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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Well, an in-line 4 is only half of a real engine...
  2. 3 points
    The effects of velocity, pressure, and temp are not all the same magnitude. While true that warmer air is less dense in this case temp has so much less effect that the net gains you get with velocity and pressure gains far outweigh any loss you get with the warmer air.
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Reasonably priced Centric high carbon rotors holds up very well...
  5. 2 points
    PGMFI.ORG Grass roots engine management I remember thinking it was so bad ass racing a car I tuned from scratch in a parking lot. Then the rods came out. Now that I know a little bit more.......its Shane Tuned or nothing. I leave it to the pros, and the best of them......... https://www.facebook.com/shanetuned/
  6. 2 points
    I see what you are saying, but there is also an increased speed factor at Road America's Kink over T12 at Road Atlanta. In a broad stroke generalization T12 is shift to 4th after a T11 crest, whereas the Kink is a top of 4th or shift to 5th. That gear difference in speed can be significant for getting a needle threading turn correct and the resultant damage if you get it wrong. The bend not only sidesteps this issue but adds another passing zone. I honestly think that additional passing zone for a series like ChampCar is the bigger factor for its usage. One of the things I love about this series is the endless passing that occurs. You are always busy in the cockpit passing or being passed...I've done both and enjoyed both. I do like being the passer better though!
  7. 2 points
    @David Haines, I just saw the iRacing top 10 for January over the weekend, congrats on calling the #1 clip!
  8. 2 points
    What the heck kinda pads are you running? Invest in good track pads. Invest in good matched tires on the smallest rim diameter and widest width you can find. Then invest in a tire pyrometer. That and some string for alignment is good enough to get the car handling quite well. If you do all of the above, you will probably save money in the long run! (Different wheels not necessary, but *could* be an advantage on some cars) As far as wet tire performance is concerned, most teams don't take the time required to change them unless the race is gonna be wet the entire day. Just run good matched tires with some tread. Also, barber is horrible in the rain no matter what tire you are on! Finally, I find it extremely beneficial to have your tires heat cycled first and the brake pads pre bedded. Doesn't cost that much and definitely adds life to both. On a 9 inch wheel, I would run a 245 at the biggest. Hankook rs4 last a long time, don't chunk, and provide really good grip. They are the best bang for the buck. Plus, they have won numerous races.
  9. 2 points
    A couple years back, Will G. from GWR racing, a front running E30 team, did a whole write up on their testing of wide tires and different width rims. His findings showed that these tires perform best with a bit of stretch on the sidewalls to provide maximum grip and to keep the 'rollover' effect from happening. I recall the GWR on track test results showed 10" was optimal for 245/40/15 Hankooks. You'll see a lot of guys on 245's running 9's and 10's. Some folks opt for 9's due to packaging and weight issues with 10's on small cars. A rule of thumb to follow is to avoid running a rim width that is narrower than the tire's advertised tread width. edit 2: I found the post I referenced...
  10. 1 point
    If compression is good, is there any reason to do a leakdown?
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    You described it well: a political problem, and one that I feel is being "addressed" by touting a non-solution to make it look like something is being done (low/lower VPi). If fuel was available for points, a lower VPi would allow the problem to be addressed. As it is now, lower VPi can only try to make up for that by enhancing speed: a Catch 22 for those on the wrong end of this.
  13. 1 point
    There are big brake kits for E30’s based on Wilwood calipers out there, but they seem to bend you over pretty bad on the costs. My contacts at Wilwood expressed interest in building a Wilwood supplied bolt on kit for E30’s like they have done for the E46. I am working on designing brackets and hats to fit the E30, if Wilwood decides to offer the kit it will be a very cost effective way to get big brakes on our cars, if they decide not to offer the kit I would be happy to share drawings with ChampCar racers so you can make the parts for your car.
  14. 1 point
    Can confirm. I would swirl your door paint with my wheel if needed. 😂 But the build looks awesome, I can't wait to see this on the track. But seriously mentally prepare yourself for some dings.
  15. 1 point
    @Black Magic I wouldn’t put any more time into this. Nobody disagrees with the idea that more fuel is better and that (all else being equal) a car with less fuel is at a disadvantage. What to do about that is the problem: - One camp says ‘keep with the current way of doing it; if a car lacks competitiveness (due to any issue, be it fuel, handling, power, etc.) it gets a low/lower VPI.’ - The other camp wants some way to increase fuel capacity, and a variety of ideas have been presented. And the cynical bottom line is that this is a bit like a political argument on facebook: nobody is going to switch camps. So if I were you I wouldn’t bother, save it for comments to the BoD once the petitions are presented, because there will be multiple petitions on this subject.
  16. 1 point
    I got the radiator, fans, and hoses installed this weekend and started planning for the fuel cell install. I was going to reuse the factory tank and attempt to solve the fuel starvation issues that come with a saddle tank using hydra mat and a surge tank, but it seemed that the cost to do this was going to be almost as much as my Radium Engineering fuel cell with build in surge tank. I'm going grind and weld on a freshly pained interior, but I have more paint so no big deal. I managed to fix a few things that I did wrong when reinstalling the suspension, like installing rear sway bar links in the wrong direction, and replacing a few bolts that were questionable with the new correct bolt. I also have been fighting brake fluid leaks at all 4 corners where the Goodridge steel braided hoses mount to the hard lines. It turns out the Goodridge lines where not machine correctly. When tightened down the the fitting on the Goodridge line would not hold the flare in tight enough due to there not being enough threads on the Goodridge side of the line. One of our techs took 4 new fittings that go on the hard lines and machined a cone into them to allow better sealing. We had to cut the other fittings off the line, install the machined fittings, and flare the lines again. With no ABS and a much simpler line set up, this all took about an hour and half to correct. I'm happy to report that the fluid leaks are gone. I had reached out to Goodridge and after 2 weeks I heard back from someone that was familiar with the issue, but at that point we had already made the new fittings to correct the problem. Goodridge sent me 4 brass coned washers to put inside their lines to correct the issue.
  17. 1 point
    Easy to get to but also outside the frame rails and at the front corner of the car. I'd feel more comfortable putting it within the frame rails where it has far less likelihood of rupturing or sustaining damage to the lines/fittings in the event of a front or front/side impact. Build looks great!
  18. 1 point
    Water does lubricate seals but not the bearing, if its noisy it's junk.
  19. 1 point
    Thanks! I hope it wasn't the stint at night... I had no brakes and was trying to conserve fuel. I think you guys lapped me 2 times that stint. I only used 9 gallons in 2 hours so it paid off. No rematch. I hate 24 hour races! Also, we are moving to sc soon so we are limiting spending money on the racecar. That's why I might be interested in an arrive and drive.
  20. 1 point
    If you have any turbo questions on the 3.5 I designed them, but it was a long time ago…
  21. 1 point
    Let's make German cars faster! Can we lower the Opel GT to 25 points?
  22. 1 point
    We battled with them at nelsons ledges for the win.
  23. 1 point
    This car was quite stout at WGI last year. I spent many laps trying to get by it and I was on the podium.
  24. 1 point
    That looks like it would do the trick.... And thanks for reminding me I have to reload on all my stuff .....soooo painful.....
  25. 1 point
    We bit the bullet last year and went to 15 x 9s with 225/45-15 R-S4s on our '95 Civic. The justification was mainly to have longer tire life than we got from the Z3s and RE-71Rs. Some internet searching showed a test of another Civic that was slightly faster on the 15 x 8/225 R-S4 combo than it was on the 15 x 8/205 RE-71R combo. https://ham-ind.com/2017/04/25/hankook-rs-4-vs-bridgestone-re71r/ We didn't quite get the opportunity to test that last year but the numbers said that the cost of the new tire and rim combo would be the same as the two sets of 205/50-15 RE-71Rs that we'd need to last as long as the larger 225/45-15 R-S4s. I went with the 9" rims in case we wanted to try the 245s but there were some tests showing that the 225s were about a second quicker on 9" than on 8" rims so no downside going with the 9" that I can see. Anecdotal tire life for the RE-71Rs showed about 6 hours vs up to 20 from the R-S4s; not purely scientific but I considered that a reasonable indication. I would say that 205/50-15s are as wide as you should go with a 7" rim. If you want to go to a 225 or 245, I suggest that you sell your 15 x 7 rims or keep them as spares and step up to the wider rims.
  26. 1 point
    Hmmm.... get to drive the competitions car.... hmmmm.
  27. 1 point
    @Black Magic I know I'm late to this great post, and you know I'm big into the data. Did you adjust for the rate of entries? If not, this data is heavily skewed.
  28. 1 point
    When I got into Chaumpcar, I thought: 1. I could build a car and race it against the same people under the same rules for a few years without major revisions and cost every year. 2. I had finally gotten into a series early enough in the usual escalation cycle to be able to afford racing again. 3. It was a great opportunity to race the tracks that I'd seen on TV and read about. 4. I could build a car that I wanted to build and not have to get "The Car" to be able to compete on even terms. 5. The series would be stable enough to have races in my region for the foreseeable future. My batting average isn't very good; the results: 1. It started out looking like this would be true but the rule and speed creep that I saw in the first couple of years has lately taken a rather steep increase. 2. See #1 3. This was the main draw for me, and I can now say that I've raced on two more historic tracks and two of the best newer tracks around. 4. The Fiero has moved to a different series that allows it to compete heads up for a podium. We bought a Civic to reduce running costs (and easier to drive) and no longer try to contend for an overall win. If I were to start now with the intention of overall podiums, I would build a Miata or a BMW. 5. We will continue to do our best to support Champcar in our region if/when possible. Chumpcar was originally geared to cheap cars and cheap racing. For the time, my Fiero build was on the high end of a typical field; now the upper end is about 3X of what I spent. Certain things I welcome because I want the room to play: aero and adjustable shocks are the two big ones for me but I didn't expect Champ to ever allow that in a budget series. Walking through the pits at a recent race and seeing what cars and mods are allowed now would be surreal for a competitor who hadn't been to a race in the last few years. I wonder how long it will be until we see the next budget racing series pop up to fill the void and cater to the racers left behind by Champ moving up-market.
  29. 1 point
    '77 280Z. Lots of work ahead of me, tho!
  30. 1 point
    But wait you forgot the old wrench with a few home building skills and the side skirts cut from some manufactured wood from Home Depot, like about $8 bucks. Our build has so many home built parts and I for one am very proud of that fact as kind of fits the series of budget racing and keeps our costs down. 🙂
  31. 1 point
    What a crazy weekend. On Friday practice we went through a cycle that changed every 30 minutes. Rain, sunshine, hail, rainbow, ....repeat. Saturday's race was awesome albeit we missed dropping off our egg timer at pit out and had to come back in to get our knuckles whacked with a ruler. Door Slammer's awesome Miata lost fifth gear while leading and we closed the gap a little, but some days they are just too tough to beat! Sunday they ran out of fuel early, then we did too!! The cars from Mr Angry Mazda, Nine Four Motorsports cars, Arsenic Racing, Autospec, Bandits, Marvin the Martian--and all the cars throughout the entire field---are top notch entries and a pleasure to race against. We need to get the word out to all the west coast teams how awesome a facility Sonoma is in order to increase the number of cars next year (and at our other upcoming events). As noted, we tried hard to catch Door Slammers in the closing stages of Saturdays race. If you want to see how hard Troy was trying, the following video shows what happens when you get the first turn of the esses a bit wrong, and it catches up to you in Turn 10. Well worth a fist pump (and new pair of shorts)..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYVpUEfkwzo&t=12s
  32. 1 point
    Until you can get in a wind tunnel the Moral of the story, there is no replacement for displacement!
  33. 1 point
    In my humble, tiny, insignificant, opinion...I'd say the series is in a good spot. I think it wedges nicely between lemons and wrl/aer. Still have recognizable cars, built by great builders and other more standard builds like we run. The ingenuity that you see from all the different teams is what I really like. Things like danger racing and the trunk spoiler, or huggy and his under hood LED lights for night races. Those are the things that I LOVE to see, great, simple ideas. I think as of now, we have spent close to 10k on the car and 10k on expenses(fuel, lodging, food, hookers, blow) over the course of our team. I love to compete but at the end of the day, as its been said before, I just love doing race car stuff with my race car friends. If its finishing the race 1st or 67, still a blast. All that being said, keep it close to the way it is, a good gateway drug for people to try out racing.
  34. 1 point
    Up a little from the $500 builds ten years ago ...
  35. 1 point
    one more before i hit the road. not quite. The air being directed over the top of the car does add downforce. It's not the temp to blame, it's the speed. So to make downforce, the general rule of thumb, is Fast under-Slow over. that creates the pressure difference and forces an object down. To make lift it's slow under-fast over. that's why airplanes mount engines and large objects on the bottom of the wing and the top is smooth. to help airspeed. To take the applied Fast under-slow over the concept and we apply it to a car. the air that passes through a radiator is moving very slowly, with your hood closed and no vents, the only path for it to take us under the car. this mixes slow air from the rad and fast-moving air. That mix creates turbulence, and turbulence is slow, not good in an area we are trying to speed up. we want to keep the air under the car as fast as we can. to fix this issue We take that slow-moving air and we force it (with ducting) to go up. this speeds up the air under the car, increasing downforce and it slows the air going over the top of the car...also... increasing downforce. so that's why you see hoods vented up.
  36. 1 point
    I personally like the bend. Coming out of the carousal at full honk and drop anchor. If you get the bend wrong, it doesn't destroy the car but will hurt your lap time.
  37. 1 point
    We see lots of helmets track side or in the shop and will keep an eye out for it!
  38. 1 point
    Do you prefer the 9-3 Aero or the 9-5 Aero?
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Can’t win the race in the first stint, but you can sure as hell lose it.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Most of the brake lines are done, but I forget to take pictures before I put the car away so I will finish those up next weekend and take pictures. This weekend I was able to strip all the spare body panels I wanted off of the parts car. I still need to strip off the suspension stuff that I'd like to keep for spares as well. Also finally got my Class D Road Racing license in iRacing.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    All the body panels are back on the car, headlights, tail lights are in, rear subframe installed, pedals are installed, and some radiant heat shielding has been installed. We are working on assembling the front subframe and suspension so that we can get some wheels and tires on the car. Fuel cell cage is on the drawing board and will be started on soon.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    You are putting so much into this awesome build I'm going to be crushed when one of the...uhh...less than reputable/experienced/careful drivers/teams in Champ barrels into you and drags their car from the rear quarter to the front door. ☹️ Hint: stay off the track if you see the blue/orange #987 Boxster on the entrant list. S.
  48. 1 point
    Mirrors and door handles back on, headlight wire harness and under hood fuse box installed, license plate pocket installed, rear sub frame ready for install, lower rocker molding panels repaired and waiting for new clips to install. Daring Greatly Racing also has it's first sponsor! More details to come on that in the next few weeks.
  49. 1 point
    Paint is on! Dove Gray from Restoration Shop. Looks good for a race car.
  50. 0 points
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