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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Looks like the 'good ole boys' club with its handshake rules are back.
  2. 3 points
    Ray I deleted my past post as it is not the correct path now with the knowledge board and I will ask with that process. Thanks for all your efforts in the tech side of the world.
  3. 3 points
    Can I ask for the reasoning behind this answer? Based on my understanding of this series, there is a "Single" governing ruleset, the BCCR, that applies the same to every car and then if a car is not of equal performance to another, the VPI is used to adjust so everyone is equal. Rulings made should be made unilaterally across all cars that the logic that is applied there. If car X can use part X, then car Y should be able to use part Y. If this camaro is not fast enough to pay for the 25pt header and can only afford 2pts to make this worthwhile then I think the action would be to modify the VPI down 23pts.
  4. 3 points
    I believe this is satire to point out the flawed logic in the cast exhaust manifolds for 2 pts ruling.
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    Does this 2 point rule apply to intake manifolds as well? If it’s the same material as oem and it’s oem on a different car, it’s only 2 points?
  7. 3 points
    Just thought I'd give an update, I'm working with Flight Data Systems this season to test out their flow meter setup. I just got it in the mail yesterday so I'll report back after the install.
  8. 3 points
    I had to recheck the rule, as I remembered it this way as well. At least in the 2020 version, the words are “exhaust header - 25 points” I thought the words were “non-oe manifold or header”. So Ray does have wiggle room here to assign a value other than 25 points. Now, how he came upon 2 points is completely beyond me.
  9. 3 points
    Honestly, the whole Ram's Horn thing probably needs to be revisited and added to the tech desk. If it confers no advantage, then it should be no problem to just get rid of them. If it does provide an advantage, it needs to be more than 2 points. We pay 25 pts for 3 measly hp (exhaust header). All engine points are expensive with good reason.
  10. 3 points
    How would anything about changing a manifold be a safety concern? If the team choose to swap to a different part and created a safety concern, they shouldn't be allowed to do it. It should not change the value. Serious question, why can't we just follow the fvl for these items instead of making exceptions? If the team choose to put on a different part, take the points for it. It is not (in my opinion) for tech to decide the value of a modification based on perceived effectiveness of performance from one part doing the same job to another.
  11. 3 points
    These statements contradict each other.
  12. 2 points
    Happy New Year to everyone, and welcome to the 2020 ChampCar iRacing Series. We experienced another good year of growth in 2019, and entering our third year we are excited to continue serving the ChampCar community and attracting new membership to real life endurance racing. There have been a few changes made to the format of the series for 2020, all of which are detailed below. The most important change is the consolidation of the two previous divisions into one overall championship. There are still two grand prizes on offer (a race entry to a CCES round in 2021); one will be awarded to the overall championship winner, and the other to a competitor who has competed in the series throughout the year. This means that even if you're not running at the front every week, a consistent participation effort can still lead to a big prize! Season There will be 16 rounds in the 2020 CCiS season, designed to match real world CCES calendar as closely as possible using tracks available on iRacing. Each round will consist of one practice round (for which no points are awarded) and one official round. Sessions will be 4 hours in length, starting at 7pm (Eastern) on Wednesday evenings. These will consist of 2 hours of open practice, 1 hour of open qualifying (starting at 9pm ET), and a one hour race (starting at 10pm ET). Championship rounds will have an License/Safety requirement of D/2.0. The calendar for the championship racess can be seen below, the practice races for each round will take place one week prior. Attached to this post is a one page printout with all relevant dates. All championship rounds will be broadcast live on YouTube by the HJBC (link at bottom). Cars As you can see from the above schedule, we are expanding the 2020 schedule to include three different cars. There are 3 base-content vehicles within iRacing that match cars found on the current CCES VPI list; the Mazda Miata NC Cup, the Pontiac Solstice, and the Street Stock (analogous to a D class ChampCar like a Camaro or Mustang). Each round will feature one of these cars, on a track that might best suit their characteristics. They will use a fixed setup with limited fuel that will mean a pit stop will be necessary to complete the full race distance. All specific details will be confirmed in a forum post prior to each round. Scoring and Prizes The championship points format is unchanged from 2019, 50-46-42-39-36-34-32-31….. down to 1pt for 38th. There will be 4 drop weeks for the 2020 season, meaning that each drivers best 12 points scores will count towards their championship points total. To be eligible for points at each round, you must complete more than 50% of the total race distance (over half the total number of laps as completed by the round winner). There are no bonus points for pole position or fastest lap. The overall championship winner will receive CCES entry or driver credit up to $1500 in value, to be redeemed in the 2021 CCES season. Second and Third overall will receive coveted CCES trophies, similar to those received by podium finishers at a real event. A second prize of up to $1500 credit will be awarded to one driver who completes the series participation requirement. To meet this requirement, drivers must complete over 50% race distance in 12 or more rounds of the 2020 season. All drivers who have met this requirement at the end of the season will be placed in a pool and the winner of the prize will be randomly selected by the CCES BoD. How to Enter To enter the 2020 CCiS, you must have an active iRacing subscription, and apply to the league using the link below. Once accepted into the league, upcoming scheduled sessions will show up under the "League Sessions" tab of the iRacing homepage. Registration for each race session is on a first-come, first-served basis. Please also join the league Discord server (also linked below) for banter during race sessions and for easy communication to all league members. Please let me know if there are any more questions regarding the season, and I look forward to seeing plenty of racers on the grid for Round 1. Useful Links ChampCar iRacing Series - League Application Discord Server 2020 ChampCar iRacing Series schedule Guide to iRacing and Hardware How to create your own iRacing paints iRacing Tips and Resources 2020CCiS.pdf
  13. 2 points
    https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/001/390/145/245.png
  14. 2 points
    As a car builder, it's just another number added to the cost of racing. It sucks. But, having to replace out of date perfectly good belts, seats, nets, and fuel cells is just part of Racing. And having seen fire systems that failed to work at ChampCar events, I work say it's a good idea
  15. 2 points
    I like this info graphic that was made and was posted to Facebook.
  16. 2 points
    Emails older than a year will not be accepted so burn up the tech line up with your clarification request. We will eventually get All the questions and interpretations into the knowledge base, but be patience it will take some time.
  17. 2 points
    Not sure if I should laugh with you or cry with you on this.
  18. 2 points
    So the way I look at this is what am I offering to renters? 1) A well prepped car that was done in my garage and not having issues overlying at the track. My whole goal is to have everything complete and ready to go when its loaded in the trailer. Not having to work on things at the track is the big bonus. 2) A competitive car that can battle in the top 10 to top 5 for each event. 3) I want my drivers to focus on driving, not having to worry about fueling the car or other items during a pit stop. I have one crew guy that comes with me. 4) Offering live video, AiM data and SmartyCam video for review. Renters can access the info we capture during the race. Also their family and friends at home can tune in to watch them race. 5) Have renters that are faster than you and can give you the best feedback. That's how I have built my car over the past couple of years. 6) Do the renters believe is worth renting from you for what you offer? This I'd a question the renter needs to answer. 7) Also I take snack orders before the race and also bring drinks the drivers like. I also start a group chat months before the race to keep renters informed with what is going. Make sure you book a room or AIRBNB that gives the renter the option for lodging. I do not factor lodging into my rental price. I want my renters to feel like they are a part and involved with the team from prep updates to wearing team shirts. A lot of the small items go a long way.
  19. 1 point
    Hope this is helpful, Buckle up for a long post. The frostfighter kit is all you need. It is 100% effective and 100% overkill, but it has to be done right. I used to run the E30 'vert rear window units. In fact, 146 still has them installed. I have two in that car, one on each side pulling air from under the dash and using the stock dash defrost vent ductwork. They don't have enough ass to do the job. The frost fighter kit is extremely susceptible to installation issues. This is what I have learned from my 3+ years of using them. I am 100% confident in them and thats all I have in my 246 car. Remember VIR in 2018 when it monsooned at 1-4 AM? We were 100% defrost issue free in 246. This is the kit I use. https://www.frostfighter.com/clear-view-defrosters-16.htm Fits an E30 windshield almost perfectly. Power and Ground on the SAME SIDE. Min Length 34 Inches. Max Length 50 Inches. NO CONTROLLER REQUIRED. Power, Ground, Receive defrost. Very simple. The wider it is, the less effective it will be. These things are basically huge resistors. The copper traces have resistance based on their cross section and length. The longer they are, the more resistance, the less heat will be put out in any given location if the voltage and current are the same. Note, Each trace is 100% critical. If you damage one trace, the whole thing is trash. Take care of your defroster and it will take care of you. This is how the power flows. Each "crossing" MUST have the same resistance as the other 3, or it won't work properly. Therefore, you MUST install it completely parallel. It cannot be the shape of your windshield (trapezoid). It has to be rectangle. 1. The "controller" kit they send with some of the kits is garbage. Dont use it. It likes to cycle the power and your driver will have to keep turning it back on over and over. 2. Wire size is critical. Make sure you use large enough and quality wire to supply it. I use 10ga GXL wire, fed directly from the battery through a 80A capable relay. Use a wire current calculator to determine the wire size you need. Always use quality wire - TXL or GXL is the standard go-to for automotive applications. Wire Calculator . Wire Size Calculator TXL Wire, 12 GA. Wire Barn TXL 12GA Red GXL Wire, 10 GA. Wire Barn GXL 10GA Red 3. Installation is critical. Install this with the windshield not installed into the car. Trust me, its worth the extra $. A rubbermaid 55 gallon trash bin will hold a windshield almost perfectly at work-height. Call around to your local glass companies. DONT USE Safelight!!!! They are almost always a ripoff, and their employees are paid poorly and in a hurry. Call a local company. My guy will drop off a windshield to me and come back a few hours later or a few days later and put it in, $180 all included. Take your time doing the install. Have a helper if possible. Cleanliness is critical. Go ahead and buy two frost-fighter kits when you order them, they are inexpensive in the scheme of things and having an extra will give you the confidence to ensure your install is done properly. If you race at road atlanta, you will need another one next year anyways after those G-D pebbles break your glass. 4. Buy the Stick-Kit defroster. It comes with everything you will need and it will save you money. 5. Use a relay! Use a good quality switch. Relay: AMAZON GEMA 80 Amp Relay Switch: I like screw terminals for vibration resistance. AMAZON Screw Terminal Gardner-Bender Switch If you prefer push terminals, AMAZON Spade Terminal Gardner-Bender Switch 6. As noted above, Install perfectly parallel and rectangular. Do not follow the contours of the glass. 7. Remember you have the Tire-Rack banner on the top of the glass. I therefore suggest you start from the bottom and get that bottom crossing of the kit as low as you can possibly get it. No need to defrost what you cant see through anyways. 8. Be careful with it once installed. Don't let your drivers toss the steering wheel onto the dash and hit the glass, as it might damage one of the copper traces. You can clean it, but do so gently as to not disturb the traces. Be particularly gentle with the buss-bars at the end. 9. Wire Relief. Use zip ties and ensure the spade connector wire connection for the power/ground aren't going to come loose during a race. This is the MFG current rating for my defroster. What this says is that if the defrost grid is installed 34" long, it will use 20.4 A continuous. If its installed 50" long, it will use 13.8. I used a relay, wire, and connectors rated for Quadruple the rated current draw. It wasn't a mistake. It was intentional overkill to ensure it had as much current as it needed. 20.4 A is a full quarter (25%) of what most alternators put out. It is A LOT of current. Don't use autozone wire. Don't reuse your speaker wire, or your ipod charging cable. Give it the power it deserves. Lastly, Address the issue at its source. Why is your car fogging up so badly? Its most likely because you have 3 inches of water standing in your floor boards. The windows are wide-open, the drains are clogged, and your have your 500 degree exhaust blasting the floor turning that water into steam at an alarming rate. Get that water OUT of the car! Use deflectors in front of the windows if you have drip issues. Make sure your drains arent clogged. Make extra Drains! Cut a slot perpendicular to the direction of travel into the floor board of your car, at a low-point. Use a punch or a hammer and knock the metal just forward of the slot down a bit, so water can flow out easily.
  20. 1 point
    Factory style clutches have been free for quite a while. I think driver comfort was sighted as the reason, since at stock power level chancing disc material and pressure plate clamp load doesn't have any real performance benefit. This doesn't allow small diameter or multi disc clutches, but I'm not sure it would matter if it did. There's so little of any performance gain at near factory power levels that putting rules in against it is more of a honey trap than anything. Nobody is doing drag launches at 2X factory go, so if you want to piss money into the wind, go for it.
  21. 1 point
    08 to current. The 17 up is more complicated. I’m going to use a 11-16 style because I already have one from a mis diagnosed vehicle repair.
  22. 1 point
    Yes, I asked about an aluminum flywheel on Jan 9 and the reply Jan 10 was "Not allowed".
  23. 1 point
    Speaking of 3rd gen combos, a 350 with an ST-10 was never available in a 3rd gen F-body (305 with 4 speed or T-5; 350 with auto only), so it's either a transmission swap for 25 points or an engine swap for a minimum 50 points. If not, the Mustang guys are going to push for free toploaders for their Fox bodies.
  24. 1 point
    Safety gear is one area that I feel is always worth the extra money and effort. I too hate to just replace equipment that appears to be in perfectly good condition just because of an artificial time line. But having witnessed first hand fire systems that didn't work. I dont feel changing/ recertifying the bottle every few years is some outrageous requirement. I will venture to guess all sanctioning groups will adopt a similarrule sooner than later. There is no way to periodically test these systems so replacement/recertify is the best option.
  25. 1 point
    The header rule seems pretty damn clear. 25pts. If that's not the case submit a question to the knowledge base for clarification. AFAIK the knowledge base is the bible now. What worries me is the ambiguity of something like the AL flywheel. I recently read through the rules and it was pretty clear to me that clutch stuff was open and free. If it's not, why not add it to the list of points on the tech inspection form? Has anyone submitted a clarification on the flywheels yet? I don't want to submit a redundant one as they have their work cut out for them. It would be helpful to see current pending submissions so they don't get slammed with 25 of the same question.
  26. 1 point
    That's rough I feel your pain! It seems like that's the case. I'll post a video after it's installed so everyone can get a better understanding of how it works. NCM will be it's first test and I can do an in depth review then.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    For me, driving the boxster was a fun change of pace. Those cars were really interesting to drive. I’m glad I did it.
  29. 1 point
    Bringing in air from outside the car to get the windshield the same temp on the inside as the outside is the easiest trick. Heating element works to boil off the water vapor. Problem is it can overheat easily if power is on with no water, so controller runs for a few minutes and shuts off. A couple defrost vents from original dash some flexible tubing and a fan(bilge fans are easy and cheap). Once you move the moist warm air off the cool windshield it will clear and stay clear. The reason it condenses/fogs is the temp diference.
  30. 1 point
    Good point about fia. Mine is fia. To be clear, I wasn't complaining. I was curious. I just looked at my bottle. It has a sticker (that gets replaced) that says date of manufacture as 4/2019. The bottle is also stamped.... 10/2018. Hmmm.
  31. 1 point
    How did tech manage to misinterpret non oe manifolds are 25 points is the real question.
  32. 1 point
    How would anyone know when the system is installed when the only part with a date on it is the bottle? Keep your bottle up to date and you won't have anything to worry about.
  33. 1 point
    After the Barber deluge or monsoon or whatever it was, I have just about decided to put the stock defroster system back in. The stuff weighs about 12 to 15 pounds but subtracting the two E30 vert defrosters and removing the electrical load should balance some of that back out. Plus I think I can reduce that somewhat with some work. The electric defrosters work pretty well unless it is like it was at Barber. I had a spot on the right side that fogged up and just couldn't see there, the two places where the electric defrosters were ended up pretty clear so it wasn't terrible. Not sure I'll have the time before Rd Atl to put it back, but that's my plan. The original defroster with heater core is just hard to beat. We ran in the rain a few years ago at AMP all day and never had a fogging issue. I want that back. Tyler, if you go the BMW E30 vert route, the E36 ones work just as well and might be a bit more powerful. I have a couple of those if you don't find any reasonably priced. They need a bit of work bypassing the bi-metal overheat contacts. That's the downfall of both units, the contacts get old and won't make good contact. I sometimes have to bang on mine to get the heater to work in them. A bit of soldering would take care of that.
  34. 1 point
    Year of manufacture is stamped on the bottle. So if your fire bottle was FIA certified would you be complaining about the 10 year service life as well? As was explained to me. SFI is a lesser standard than FIA. Most of the time the extra money you pay for FIA is well worth it in the end if you compare the two. ChampCar isn't coming up with these year requirements on end of life. The certifying agencies are. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=FIREREFILL https://www.sfifoundation.com/wp-content/pdfs/specs/Spec_17.1_022614.pdf SFi doc explains in 2.7
  35. 1 point
    How did you interpret the words manifold to mean cylinder head
  36. 1 point
    So where was this outlook when you were 100% adamant on giving us 48-points for a fiberglass hood that replaced our stock plastic composite hood? It added zero performance (which you conceded). It weighed the same as a gutted stock hood. It was just a different design and still a composite/fiberglass/plastic material. Two points for Ram's horn manifolds sure seems pretty interesting when headers are valued at 25-points. These are stock '87 V8 Camaro exhaust manifolds: These are not:
  37. 1 point
    I see, so if a component is cast iron and stock then it can be replaced with any other cast iron part to perform the same function for only 2 points. So the stock Ford 5.0 can run any stock cast iron head E7/GT40/GT40P for only 2 points? Seems to me Dart makes a stock replacement cast iron head as well for the 5.0, as per the Dart site, "Works with most standard components".
  38. 1 point
    Pretty sure you know the difference between a smogger exhaust manifold and a ram's horn manifold. That's like saying there's essentially no difference between a 461or 292 head and a small valve 305 head. It's a performance advantage and should be 25 points. Their decision to use it instead of headers and not your concern or call, especially when it keeps them from getting a two lap penalty.
  39. 1 point
    I have had success with large cfm bilge\brake fans, duct that spreads air into a thin jet across the width of the windshield, and drawing the air from a hot spot (sometimes build a air box that pulls from floor\tunnel where the exhaust is immediately below). And option if you want to go lower weight\cheaper. Key is to get it all hot in the am before you run, running car early. Have even seen guys put heaters in cars to warm up the windshield.
  40. 1 point
    OEM equivalent - If your car came with an aluminium flywheel from the factory ,I don't know of any, run it . If not - you are cheating plain and simple . Never been approved, as long as I have been doing this . An email from 2014 or 16 does not count , should it? If there is not a value of the FPVL it has to be OEM equivalent - so it is written so let it be done .
  41. 1 point
    I agree it should be public. I got the information from several, like half a dozen, teams. I do have a tech email but I don't recall if I asked or my teammate, or another team altogether. Keep in mind even with the tightest rulesets there's still a huge tribal knowledge element. There is at least a 15 horsepower spread In spec Miata between having the tribal knowledge and not. You will never be able to get rid of that element. in this case it's asking questions about everything that isn't in the rules, or things that are unclear in the rules. The tribal knowledge element is why I've made so much of our build public.
  42. 1 point
    Looks like they ran at least two events in 2018: Sonoma and Utah. They were about 60 laps ahead of Bill at Utah. They may have been at some more recent ones as well but I remember some of the posts about those two. Also, if you want to get more west coast racers out at Champcar events, you might want to try encouraging us instead of resorting to the usual lame taunting. I keep the Champcar schedule handy and put likely events on my possibles list whenever they appeal to my team. Getting told that we don't make an effort or that we somehow are not welcome when it comes to discussing issues doesn't do much to get us to decide in Champcar's favour over other opportunities.
  43. 1 point
    I may buy a 'selfie stick' for the next event
  44. 1 point
    Not me. Make sure your tetanus is up to date!
  45. 1 point
    4.4.1. ALL non-stock components, parts, assemblies, or systems MUST be declared to Tech Inspection, noted in the vehicle Log Book, and declared and accounted for in the total points of the vehicle. 4.4.2. There is NO SUCH THING as a free part, every part of a vehicle has a value. Parts not covered elsewhere in the rules will be assigned a point value by ChampCar Tech
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Depends on how fast you are (the renter, I mean). I am fairly quick, but I know I'm not quite top tier. I would feel a little uncomfortable racing with gwr or troy for example. What I'm trying to say is that I may still choose the "lesser" team even if it was the same cost. Also, attitude counts for a lot. A fast team of jerks would be less fun than a slower team full of @E. Tyler Pedersens. (Not that Tyler is slow!, just awesome to hang out with) All of that being said, yes, charge more if you are consistently a top 5 team. Be picky about your drivers. There is a market for better teams to charge more. It takes more work and ingenuity to stay at the top. Reward the team for this by charging more.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    You way overestimate my influence. I mean, would YOU listen to me?
  50. 1 point
    Daytona in July sounds horrible to me as well.
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