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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/22/2020 in all areas

  1. It came to my attention today that the published 2021 VPI table contains red cells, but those cells have nothing to do with changes from Q4 2020 to 2021, so I made some easier to interpret versions. These are unofficial! No Champcar BOD, Tech, or Staff have reviewed. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK No Guarantees, this is probably not completely accurate or accurately complete. Ok, with that out of the way. These are the weight changes I found: Make Model Year VPI Curb Champ Q4 2020
    8 points
  2. When using this point to talk about radiators, I wonder how many assume factory design is insufficient/unreliable vs trying it first to see what really works. Like @QuaTTro we ran the factory 15 yr old plastic/aluminum radiator 23,000 race miles on top of its 100,000+ street miles before a wall ended its cooling career, from there, a used parts store explorer plastic/aluminum rad went in, met the same fate a couple years later. Just saying.
    5 points
  3. haha I always assume I have brakes. Maybe I need to revisit my assumptions.
    3 points
  4. Ah, therein lies the difference of opinion. You don't have to spend a mint to go race. However, If you want to be competitive, it is very hard to do so without spending at least as much as your fellow competitors. The trick is finding a race series where the spending amount fits in your comfort level and abilities. Want to be cheap? Watch TV, post on internet forums, race video games, volunteer to help out etc. Have more to spend? I think Formula 1 is the upper tier of the spending bracket. Champcar is somewhere between those two li
    3 points
  5. Cornering stiffness would be an empirical way to define it, as well as the rest of the tire's force and moment characteristics. Force and moment testing is basically running a tire on a big treadmill. The tire is swept through various slip angles, and the test rig measures the resulting forces generated by the tire. Cornering stiffness is the relationship between lateral force generated from the different slip angles. Tire construction, tread pattern, and the various compounds used in the tire all play a part in the steering feel characteristics of a tire. A typical pas
    3 points
  6. I had two kids go through the transition from karting to racecars both before they were old enough to drive on the street. I told them to just ignore it. While braking, clutch in, downshift, clutch out SLOWLY, drive on. They did just fine. They eventually learned how to heel toe and even double clutch, but I also know that when it all gets busy, or if they find the pedals aren't to their liking, they skip it. I've seen lots of in car videos of drivers who don't bother.
    3 points
  7. In my experience, boxing in the rad is way more important than which rad you run. i went back to stock to make room for a header in points and there was virtually no difference in running temps.
    2 points
  8. I've spent a non-trivial amount of my career as a tire engineer for one of the major manufacturers - the Tire Rack guys know their stuff, but I have actual data (unfortunately that can't be shared). A tire on wider rim widths will be more crisp in terms of steering precision when compared to a narrower wheel. And the treadwear difference is not huge, but is measureable.
    2 points
  9. I have some fun stuff laying around too
    2 points
  10. I work with a mechanical engineer that spent years designing racing clutches and flywheels for a major manufacturer. One of the issues he brought up with aluminum flywheels in a racing environment is the higher material expansion of aluminum over steel, which can lead to the flywheel bolts wanting to back out. He suggested using a steel flywheel shim under the bolt heads to help distribute the load on the flywheel.
    2 points
  11. I thought the same thing. We continued to run the radiator from the 4-cyl model for years after we swapped to the 6-cyl engine, which the internets would suggest would be an instant meltdown.
    1 point
  12. One thing not to do is use the engine for braking. Also, don't shift too early and overrev the engine. Here's a video that has that: At 25:50 and 26:18 (and every lap at those corners) the driver shifts too soon and the revs go up. Shift light was set at 5500 rpm, fuel cutout is 6300 rpm and the telltale on the tach showed the engine was hitting 6600 rpm, 1000 rpm higher than the shift point. As the car gets to the point where the driver reapplies the throttle, the rpms are around 4000. Much easier on the engine and clutch to shift later in the braking zone and gently mat
    1 point
  13. The pumping is to make sure he has brakes before he gets to the corner.
    1 point
  14. Chumpcar rules are made for people with infinite amount of time but limited budget, this is something that is recurring and "spirit of the rules". (Examples: Corner balance without height adjustability 0pts, home made camber plates, repurpose material for fender flares etc, replace items before each race vs lifetime products, etc, etc ,etc)
    1 point
  15. For some reason our fastest driver don't heel toe, he shifts after the apex on track out. I also noticed that when heel toeing sometimes causes my braking to be less perfect.
    1 point
  16. When sitting in a chair are you able to roll on the ball of your right foot (big toe to little toe and back) but by spreading your right leg from your left? Even with legs that have limited movement I feel cannot do this is more a function of car than driver (for example many cars, the throttle is just way too deep relative to the brake). I do not 'heel & toe', I press the throttle while I brake by whatever means, usually by using the right half of the brake pedal pad and 'spreading my leg' to push throttle with the right hand ball of my foot. Revmatching with downshifts wi
    1 point
  17. You are correct, but a year behind This was approved in April 2019 Which resulted in one change in the BCCR, and sadly it did not meet the intent. 2019 wording 4.5.2.1. “weight” is the advertised vehicle curb weight minus 10%. 2020 wording 4.5.2.1. “weight” refers to the ChampCar Swap Performance Value of that make and model, as determined by ChampCar. "Weight" was left in the actual formula IF[16 - (weight / (HP + hpAdd) ) > 0 ] THEN [ 0.032 * (16 - (weight / (HP + hpAdd))) ^6] + 50 ELSE + 50
    1 point
  18. @Huggy wasn't it said in the BoD meeting that "weight" was the wrong term, and something like "performance factor" would be used? Did I imagine that?
    1 point
  19. lololol...I guess TAC's calculator only figured that the '94-'95 Cobra needed to be raised. Not any other Mustangs. And of course the only SN95 Mustang to ever be on the podium in the series. Ever. That's a pretty transparent statement and message heard loud and clear, BOD and TAC.
    1 point
  20. Id love to know what the justification on raising the VQ35 Maxima up to 515 is, especially if comparing to an SE-R Altima at 505 with nearly identical drivetrain and weight, but with 2 gallons of extra fuel and IRS (as opposed to the garbage rear beam axle in the Maxima). Im all for raising values on cars to try and slow the field and id be happy to try to make up laps on slower cars, but considering this was the only car to be raised above 500, whats up with that? 15 points added is two laps in this scenario, no idea how that was justified, and would love to hear. Than
    1 point
  21. Used to heel toe really aggressively, then I got into a fuel conservation situation and stopped blipping to save that tiny bit of fuel and discovered it wasn’t really necessary. Now I mostly don’t bother and focus on braking and line. No problem whatsoever getting all my downshifting done before turn in, just don’t coast w the clutch in. Brake hard, stab clutch and change gear at more or less the same time and then release the clutch just slightly slower than “dumping it” and everything seems to match up just fine. Probably using the clutch more than I need to but it’s OEM (at least for anothe
    1 point
  22. Yeah I saw that, but I found out there is a small shop in one of the garages that have tire changing equip and they will be there this weekend! Thanks
    1 point
  23. oh, cool. I didnt see that yet. THanks! It looks like the redline is for added stuff only maybe? The c3 corvette changed and it is not redlined. edit # 2: Just looked again and the redlines are only for added vehicles. THere are numerous changes.... Corvette, Maxima, etc... edit# 3: Mustang cobra now 550....
    1 point
  24. How many teams are doing all of the above? Maybe a couple. Again, let's not overreact.
    1 point
  25. Also, regarding the heel/toe shift technique.... it’s really hard to practice on a street car on the street because the movement is so different when you aren’t going fast, like, it’s not even worth practicing if you don’t practice it right. Find some roads where you can go fast, get the RPMs up where you will be on track, and can brake really hard. It has a lot to do with height of the brake pedal and pressure applied, so if you are just grazing the pedal because you are in traffic and driving in the city, it’s nothing like the track technique.
    1 point
  26. Whether you can heel/toe or not, you must complete the shift before you turn in. Can’t be rev matching and smoothing the clutch in while your trying to hit an apex and ease on the throttle. Too much to think about, too difficult. So you reach braking zone, brake hard, clutch, shift, engage slowly, complete shift. Do all that fast enough that you are just turning in when you complete the shift. If you fully engage abruptly it can chirp the tires... and if you do that while turning it will really screw you up. Im not saying it can’t be done... I do it from time to time (dow
    1 point
  27. Don't stress about it, we have four drivers on my team, all within 0.5 seconds best lap at any track. Three heel-and-toe, I don't. I am the only one that gets out of the car with tire marbles melted onto the heel of my right foot because it rarely moves for two hours. Right foot is throttle only, left is either brake or clutch. Brake for turn, turn in, as soon as your foot is off the brake stab the clutch to shift and release right away and blip the throttle as needed, do not bleed out the clutch as you are thinking as it will likely overheat. Roll on the throttle as soon as yo
    1 point
  28. Upped my cooking game. Rediscovered my Weber grill and have been smoking small chuck roasts and using leftovers for chili. Made my own sourdough starter and bread. Not to mention craft beers, wine, and cocktail consumption....
    1 point
  29. I use a stock rad and it's fine. I'm not changing my alternator to save a couple of pounds. Wilwood brakes were always available, that hasn't changed. if your car is stopping fine now and you can get through a race, then you are set, just like always. You don't have to spend a mint to compete.
    1 point
  30. You could run no starter for free. Bump starts would be a pain but that would be the lightest and freeest performance gain.
    1 point
  31. You might get 3X the life as when the pads get low they wear exponentially faster. I went Wilwood for long term pad cost and having the same front and rear calipers I can use my half used fronts in the rear until I can use them all up. The cost benefit only takes about a year to save enough to basically get the calipers for free.
    1 point
  32. I think it's more in the pad choice / cost if you already have enough braking capability. Also, some cars calipers require a ton of maintenance to keep functioning in this environment. Last thing is caliper availability. I know my car is getting much more difficult to find calipers for.
    1 point
  33. One with an sfi rating is always a good choice (edit:) if you like your ankles... Yes, I've seen a lightened flywheel explode and take out the floor /break a guys leg in lemons.
    1 point
  34. Well I just got off the phone with Siebkens. It looks like the Stop Inn Tavern is open on Friday, Sat and Sunday and no restrictions to capactiy. Who is all coming to enjoy some drinks at Siebkens with us? This is a very important part of this weekend
    1 point
  35. @E. Tyler Pedersen I think some clarity on this would be great. Is a O.E replacement the Mazda radiator or the Autozone radiator? (Not a big deal but would be nice to not have to buy a new radiator, I think some of us got screwed because we had 10pts $150-$299 radiators and that is typically higher than Napa. Now they are 30pts)
    1 point
  36. If you show it's an <$99 ebay radiator nobody will bat an eye, nobody will care, nobody will protest you, no protest would be upheld. So what does it matter? If you have an $799 C&R racing radiator and say "but the dealer charges $829" people will be more bothered. There are special cases and there are "special" cases.
    1 point
  37. I saw it as the opposite. Instead of 10 pts for an aluminum rad, they are now free (As long as your stock radiator is 100$ or more)
    1 point
  38. I think i am not quite understanding your point. Coolers and stuff are available, for points. Use your points for them. I'm not talking about repurposing anything. If you chose speed parts over reliability, that is your call. If everything that is reliability is given for free, some of the top teams that are using points for reliability items now have more points to spend on go fast bits. That's my entire point.
    1 point
  39. Dood... I have been saying that to the bod and Mike for YEARS. The statement should be the guiding light!
    1 point
  40. It’s interesting that the following weekend for The IMSA 12 Hours of Sebring race, there’s No rules of stopping the race when someone is spotted not wearing a mask I guess this virus is very selective with who it decides to infect.
    1 point
  41. I am running for re-election for the 2019 board here in ChampCar. I have been on the board since June 2018 when I was appointed since we had another person step down and I was the next person in line (3rd in the elections that year). I have been a part of ChampCar since 2012 when I first raced at Road America in a Dodge Shadow. Since then I have done over 50 weekends with ChampCar in my car and other members cars as a rental driver. My wife and I currently own Crank Yankers Racing and between her and I we work on the vehicle in our own pole barn. I do have one crew member who will come h
    1 point
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