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  1. It came to my attention today that the published 2021 VPI table contains red cells, but those cells have nothing to do with changes from Q4 2020 to 2021, so I made some easier to interpret versions. These are unofficial! No Champcar BOD, Tech, or Staff have reviewed. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK No Guarantees, this is probably not completely accurate or accurately complete. Ok, with that out of the way. These are the weight changes I found: Make Model Year VPI Curb Champ Q4 2020 Champ 2021 Change in Weight Dodge Neon (DOHC/Magnum) 1995 250 2212 2380 2458 78 Dodge Neon (DOHC/Magnum) 1996 250 2212 2380 2458 78 Dodge Neon (DOHC/Magnum) 1997 250 2212 2399 2458 59 Dodge Neon (DOHC/Magnum) 1998 250 2212 2399 2458 59 Dodge Neon (DOHC/Magnum) 1999 250 2212 2399 2458 59 Dodge Neon (SOHC) 1995 200 2212 2380 2458 78 Dodge Neon (SOHC) 1996 200 2212 2380 2458 78 Dodge Neon (SOHC) 1997 200 2212 2399 2458 59 Dodge Neon (SOHC) 1998 200 2212 2399 2458 59 Dodge Neon (SOHC) 1999 200 2212 2399 2458 59 Nissan 240SX 1989 350 2547 2870 2830 -40 Nissan 240SX 1990 350 2547 2870 2830 -40 Nissan 240SX 1991 350 2547 2870 2830 -40 Nissan 240SX 1992 350 2547 2870 2830 -40 Nissan 240SX 1993 350 2547 2870 2830 -40 Nissan 240SX 1994 350 2547 2870 2830 -40 Nissan 240SX 1995 350 2547 2753 2830 77 Nissan 240SX 1996 350 2547 2753 2830 77 Nissan 240SX 1997 350 2547 2862 2830 -32 Nissan 240SX 1998 350 2547 2862 2830 -32 Pontiac Fiero 1984 150 2512 2462 2791 329 Pontiac Fiero 1985 150 2512 2462 2791 329 Pontiac Fiero 1986 150 2512 2462 2791 329 VPI Table Early: BMW E36/5 318ti 95-99 was added at 350 Chevy Camaro 6cyl 96-97 raised from 250 to 325 Chevy Camaro 6cyl 98 reduced from 350 to 325 Chevy Corvette Pre-80 - 82 (C3) raised from 150 to 300 Dodge Neon (DOHC/Magnum) 95-99 reduced from 250 to 225 Mustang Cobra 94-95 raised from 300 to 350 Infinity I30-I35 re-named to Infinity I30 A32 (VQ30DE) 96-99 and raised from 350 to 425 Lexus IS200 Removed Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution removed Nissan Maxima separated by engine now: Maxima J30 (VG30E), Maxima J30 (VG30DE), and Maxima A32 (VQ30DE) Year Pre-80 - 91 are unchanged Year 92-93 Unchanged for VG30E. Raised from 350-400 for VG30DE Year 94 Unchanged for VG30DE. Reduced from 400-350 for VG30E Year 95-99 raised from 400 to 425 Pontiac Firebird 6cyl 98 reduced from 350 to 325 Pontiac Firebird 6cyl 96-97 raised from 250 to 325 Pontiac Firebird 6cyl 93-94 raised from 200 to 250 Toyota Hilux re-named Pickup VW Beetle/SuperBeetle 80-99 removed VPI Table Late: Acura TL Type S added 2004-2008 at 500 Audi TT FWD 00-02 reduced from 475 to 375 Audi TT FWD 03-06 reduced from 475 to 400 Audi TT Quattro 00 reduced from 475 to 415 Audi TT Quattro 01-02 reduced from 475 to 425 Audi TT Quattro 03-06 reduced from 520 to 435 Audi TT VR6 03-06 reduced from 540 to 485 Lexus IS200 Removed Infinity I30-I35 separated into I30 A33 (VQ30DE-K) and I30 A33 (VQ35DE) Year 00-01 reduced from 475 to 450 Year 02-04 reduced from 500 to 490 Mazda RX8 04-08 reduced from 510 to 480 Nissan Z33 08-10 added at 540 Nissan Maxima separated by engine now: Maxima A33 (VQ30DE-K), Maxima A33 (VQ35DE), and Maxima A34 (VQ35D) Year 02-03 raised from 500 to 515 Year 04-06 raised from 500 to 510 Year 07 and 08 removed Toyota Corona removed Notes* Plymouth Neon still at 250 for 95-99 Camaro and Firebird were different before, but align now. Whew. 4 hours of work to figure that out.
    8 points
  2. When using this point to talk about radiators, I wonder how many assume factory design is insufficient/unreliable vs trying it first to see what really works. Like @QuaTTro we ran the factory 15 yr old plastic/aluminum radiator 23,000 race miles on top of its 100,000+ street miles before a wall ended its cooling career, from there, a used parts store explorer plastic/aluminum rad went in, met the same fate a couple years later. Just saying.
    5 points
  3. haha I always assume I have brakes. Maybe I need to revisit my assumptions.
    3 points
  4. Ah, therein lies the difference of opinion. You don't have to spend a mint to go race. However, If you want to be competitive, it is very hard to do so without spending at least as much as your fellow competitors. The trick is finding a race series where the spending amount fits in your comfort level and abilities. Want to be cheap? Watch TV, post on internet forums, race video games, volunteer to help out etc. Have more to spend? I think Formula 1 is the upper tier of the spending bracket. Champcar is somewhere between those two limits.
    3 points
  5. Cornering stiffness would be an empirical way to define it, as well as the rest of the tire's force and moment characteristics. Force and moment testing is basically running a tire on a big treadmill. The tire is swept through various slip angles, and the test rig measures the resulting forces generated by the tire. Cornering stiffness is the relationship between lateral force generated from the different slip angles. Tire construction, tread pattern, and the various compounds used in the tire all play a part in the steering feel characteristics of a tire. A typical passenger car tire will have lower cornering stiffness than a typical 200 treadwear class tire, by nature of the tire's sidewall construction... the stiffer the tire, the higher the cornering stiffness, and more direct the steering feel. But changing rim width can have a similar effect - in the extreme, a very narrow wheel will allow the belt and tread portion of the tire to flop back and forth on the rim, while a much wider rim will "stretch" the tire which doesn't allow the belt and tread package to move as much. This video of a force and moment test shows an extreme case around the 30-35 second mark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmdFHHpLfXU&ab_channel=SmithersRapraTesting
    3 points
  6. I had two kids go through the transition from karting to racecars both before they were old enough to drive on the street. I told them to just ignore it. While braking, clutch in, downshift, clutch out SLOWLY, drive on. They did just fine. They eventually learned how to heel toe and even double clutch, but I also know that when it all gets busy, or if they find the pedals aren't to their liking, they skip it. I've seen lots of in car videos of drivers who don't bother.
    3 points
  7. In my experience, boxing in the rad is way more important than which rad you run. i went back to stock to make room for a header in points and there was virtually no difference in running temps.
    2 points
  8. I've spent a non-trivial amount of my career as a tire engineer for one of the major manufacturers - the Tire Rack guys know their stuff, but I have actual data (unfortunately that can't be shared). A tire on wider rim widths will be more crisp in terms of steering precision when compared to a narrower wheel. And the treadwear difference is not huge, but is measureable.
    2 points
  9. I have some fun stuff laying around too
    2 points
  10. I work with a mechanical engineer that spent years designing racing clutches and flywheels for a major manufacturer. One of the issues he brought up with aluminum flywheels in a racing environment is the higher material expansion of aluminum over steel, which can lead to the flywheel bolts wanting to back out. He suggested using a steel flywheel shim under the bolt heads to help distribute the load on the flywheel.
    2 points
  11. I thought the same thing. We continued to run the radiator from the 4-cyl model for years after we swapped to the 6-cyl engine, which the internets would suggest would be an instant meltdown.
    1 point
  12. One thing not to do is use the engine for braking. Also, don't shift too early and overrev the engine. Here's a video that has that: At 25:50 and 26:18 (and every lap at those corners) the driver shifts too soon and the revs go up. Shift light was set at 5500 rpm, fuel cutout is 6300 rpm and the telltale on the tach showed the engine was hitting 6600 rpm, 1000 rpm higher than the shift point. As the car gets to the point where the driver reapplies the throttle, the rpms are around 4000. Much easier on the engine and clutch to shift later in the braking zone and gently match revs instead of making racy sounds. Engine builders call these drivers "rod stretchers".
    1 point
  13. The pumping is to make sure he has brakes before he gets to the corner.
    1 point
  14. Chumpcar rules are made for people with infinite amount of time but limited budget, this is something that is recurring and "spirit of the rules". (Examples: Corner balance without height adjustability 0pts, home made camber plates, repurpose material for fender flares etc, replace items before each race vs lifetime products, etc, etc ,etc)
    1 point
  15. For some reason our fastest driver don't heel toe, he shifts after the apex on track out. I also noticed that when heel toeing sometimes causes my braking to be less perfect.
    1 point
  16. When sitting in a chair are you able to roll on the ball of your right foot (big toe to little toe and back) but by spreading your right leg from your left? Even with legs that have limited movement I feel cannot do this is more a function of car than driver (for example many cars, the throttle is just way too deep relative to the brake). I do not 'heel & toe', I press the throttle while I brake by whatever means, usually by using the right half of the brake pedal pad and 'spreading my leg' to push throttle with the right hand ball of my foot. Revmatching with downshifts will save a lot of drivetrain damage. Please revote a lot of time to the pedals in your car before concluding you can't. Consider the following changes -Make throttle and brake level in dept in resting position -widen throttle to bring closer to brake pedal -narrow brake pedal (if you want to press on the middle of the pedal but still easily be able to roll the ball of your foot) In conclusion I feel there is no technique to the misleading name of 'heel & toe' the goal is the ability to apply the throttle while braking when you want Good luck!
    1 point
  17. You are correct, but a year behind This was approved in April 2019 Which resulted in one change in the BCCR, and sadly it did not meet the intent. 2019 wording 4.5.2.1. “weight” is the advertised vehicle curb weight minus 10%. 2020 wording 4.5.2.1. “weight” refers to the ChampCar Swap Performance Value of that make and model, as determined by ChampCar. "Weight" was left in the actual formula IF[16 - (weight / (HP + hpAdd) ) > 0 ] THEN [ 0.032 * (16 - (weight / (HP + hpAdd))) ^6] + 50 ELSE + 50 As well as left in the title of the .CSV that allows for manual swap HP calculations without use of the website.
    1 point
  18. @Huggy wasn't it said in the BoD meeting that "weight" was the wrong term, and something like "performance factor" would be used? Did I imagine that?
    1 point
  19. lololol...I guess TAC's calculator only figured that the '94-'95 Cobra needed to be raised. Not any other Mustangs. And of course the only SN95 Mustang to ever be on the podium in the series. Ever. That's a pretty transparent statement and message heard loud and clear, BOD and TAC.
    1 point
  20. Id love to know what the justification on raising the VQ35 Maxima up to 515 is, especially if comparing to an SE-R Altima at 505 with nearly identical drivetrain and weight, but with 2 gallons of extra fuel and IRS (as opposed to the garbage rear beam axle in the Maxima). Im all for raising values on cars to try and slow the field and id be happy to try to make up laps on slower cars, but considering this was the only car to be raised above 500, whats up with that? 15 points added is two laps in this scenario, no idea how that was justified, and would love to hear. Thanks for sifting through those @Huggy
    1 point
  21. Used to heel toe really aggressively, then I got into a fuel conservation situation and stopped blipping to save that tiny bit of fuel and discovered it wasn’t really necessary. Now I mostly don’t bother and focus on braking and line. No problem whatsoever getting all my downshifting done before turn in, just don’t coast w the clutch in. Brake hard, stab clutch and change gear at more or less the same time and then release the clutch just slightly slower than “dumping it” and everything seems to match up just fine. Probably using the clutch more than I need to but it’s OEM (at least for another couple months...) and designed for 80K or so miles so I don’t sweat it.
    1 point
  22. Yeah I saw that, but I found out there is a small shop in one of the garages that have tire changing equip and they will be there this weekend! Thanks
    1 point
  23. oh, cool. I didnt see that yet. THanks! It looks like the redline is for added stuff only maybe? The c3 corvette changed and it is not redlined. edit # 2: Just looked again and the redlines are only for added vehicles. THere are numerous changes.... Corvette, Maxima, etc... edit# 3: Mustang cobra now 550....
    1 point
  24. How many teams are doing all of the above? Maybe a couple. Again, let's not overreact.
    1 point
  25. Also, regarding the heel/toe shift technique.... it’s really hard to practice on a street car on the street because the movement is so different when you aren’t going fast, like, it’s not even worth practicing if you don’t practice it right. Find some roads where you can go fast, get the RPMs up where you will be on track, and can brake really hard. It has a lot to do with height of the brake pedal and pressure applied, so if you are just grazing the pedal because you are in traffic and driving in the city, it’s nothing like the track technique.
    1 point
  26. Whether you can heel/toe or not, you must complete the shift before you turn in. Can’t be rev matching and smoothing the clutch in while your trying to hit an apex and ease on the throttle. Too much to think about, too difficult. So you reach braking zone, brake hard, clutch, shift, engage slowly, complete shift. Do all that fast enough that you are just turning in when you complete the shift. If you fully engage abruptly it can chirp the tires... and if you do that while turning it will really screw you up. Im not saying it can’t be done... I do it from time to time (downshift during a corner) but it’s only when I have screwed up in the braking zone or couldn’t concentrate on the shift when I was supposed to.
    1 point
  27. Don't stress about it, we have four drivers on my team, all within 0.5 seconds best lap at any track. Three heel-and-toe, I don't. I am the only one that gets out of the car with tire marbles melted onto the heel of my right foot because it rarely moves for two hours. Right foot is throttle only, left is either brake or clutch. Brake for turn, turn in, as soon as your foot is off the brake stab the clutch to shift and release right away and blip the throttle as needed, do not bleed out the clutch as you are thinking as it will likely overheat. Roll on the throttle as soon as you let out the clutch. Going into a hair pin from a straight is a bit different. Brake for turn, turn in, stab the clutch and downshift 4 to 2, blip the throttle to bring the rev's up to match then release the clutch. As soon as the clutch is out roll on the gas. If you are not as fast as your teammates it is your driving, not because you are missing heel-and-toe. If you are faster then you are the better driver. I used to heel-and-toe but I find my braking to be more optimal and able to fine tune only concentrating on one thing. As I said, don't stress about it, you will get the hang of it within 10 minutes.
    1 point
  28. Upped my cooking game. Rediscovered my Weber grill and have been smoking small chuck roasts and using leftovers for chili. Made my own sourdough starter and bread. Not to mention craft beers, wine, and cocktail consumption....
    1 point
  29. I use a stock rad and it's fine. I'm not changing my alternator to save a couple of pounds. Wilwood brakes were always available, that hasn't changed. if your car is stopping fine now and you can get through a race, then you are set, just like always. You don't have to spend a mint to compete.
    1 point
  30. You could run no starter for free. Bump starts would be a pain but that would be the lightest and freeest performance gain.
    1 point
  31. You might get 3X the life as when the pads get low they wear exponentially faster. I went Wilwood for long term pad cost and having the same front and rear calipers I can use my half used fronts in the rear until I can use them all up. The cost benefit only takes about a year to save enough to basically get the calipers for free.
    1 point
  32. I think it's more in the pad choice / cost if you already have enough braking capability. Also, some cars calipers require a ton of maintenance to keep functioning in this environment. Last thing is caliper availability. I know my car is getting much more difficult to find calipers for.
    1 point
  33. One with an sfi rating is always a good choice (edit:) if you like your ankles... Yes, I've seen a lightened flywheel explode and take out the floor /break a guys leg in lemons.
    1 point
  34. Well I just got off the phone with Siebkens. It looks like the Stop Inn Tavern is open on Friday, Sat and Sunday and no restrictions to capactiy. Who is all coming to enjoy some drinks at Siebkens with us? This is a very important part of this weekend
    1 point
  35. @E. Tyler Pedersen I think some clarity on this would be great. Is a O.E replacement the Mazda radiator or the Autozone radiator? (Not a big deal but would be nice to not have to buy a new radiator, I think some of us got screwed because we had 10pts $150-$299 radiators and that is typically higher than Napa. Now they are 30pts)
    1 point
  36. If you show it's an <$99 ebay radiator nobody will bat an eye, nobody will care, nobody will protest you, no protest would be upheld. So what does it matter? If you have an $799 C&R racing radiator and say "but the dealer charges $829" people will be more bothered. There are special cases and there are "special" cases.
    1 point
  37. I saw it as the opposite. Instead of 10 pts for an aluminum rad, they are now free (As long as your stock radiator is 100$ or more)
    1 point
  38. I think i am not quite understanding your point. Coolers and stuff are available, for points. Use your points for them. I'm not talking about repurposing anything. If you chose speed parts over reliability, that is your call. If everything that is reliability is given for free, some of the top teams that are using points for reliability items now have more points to spend on go fast bits. That's my entire point.
    1 point
  39. Dood... I have been saying that to the bod and Mike for YEARS. The statement should be the guiding light!
    1 point
  40. It’s interesting that the following weekend for The IMSA 12 Hours of Sebring race, there’s No rules of stopping the race when someone is spotted not wearing a mask I guess this virus is very selective with who it decides to infect.
    1 point
  41. I am running for re-election for the 2019 board here in ChampCar. I have been on the board since June 2018 when I was appointed since we had another person step down and I was the next person in line (3rd in the elections that year). I have been a part of ChampCar since 2012 when I first raced at Road America in a Dodge Shadow. Since then I have done over 50 weekends with ChampCar in my car and other members cars as a rental driver. My wife and I currently own Crank Yankers Racing and between her and I we work on the vehicle in our own pole barn. I do have one crew member who will come help from time-to-time, but essentially all the work is performed by myself and my wife. I currently do 3-4 race weekends a year with my car and I complete another 1-2 as a rental driver. When I came on the board in June 2018, I thought our brand was worth more than what we were getting on a sponsorship level. I believe we could sell this very well and get a nationally recognized company on board. This would make our series look better with the name change from ChumpCar to ChampCar. I started discussing with multiple national companies in August 2018. I did this by cold calling and emailing CEOs, CFOs and other main players in those companies. In October 2018 we had a company very interested and by January 2019 we had a contract with TireRack for a three-year deal with a two year renewal option. I also advocated to Mike to give tires back to the members, so we made the commitment to give $10k back to members in free tires. This decision was also made to not give it to the winners of the event, but to give all the entries a chance of winning, so we decided on a random draw at the driver’s meeting. In December 2018, I also was able to get all but two of our series sponsors on three-year contracts. The goal is to not have to change those side stickers often and have to buy new number panels. In July 2019, I brought Bell on as the 2020 Helmet Sponsor and also was able to negotiate new helmets for the winners at Indy. The goal for 2020 is to get more event sponsors on board and try to work out some other contingency deals for members, so they can benefit from some of these companies in our industry. In just one year, I have tripled the money we have received in sponsorship money. In August 2018, I also volunteered to be a part of the Technical Advisory Committee (TAC). This was an idea from a member that was put in place then. We needed two representatives from the board to be on the committee, so I volunteered so I could pull my weight with the new board. From the start, I let TAC know that I would be an advisor (a voice of the board) and not persuade their decision on all of these issues or rulebook items. When they want input on a voice from the board then I step in and I also make sure the TAC stays on task. For the 2019 petitions, they were all reviewed by the TAC first (4 weeks before the board discussed them) and then I presented those findings from the TAC to the board. I am not a good rule writer; that is not my strong point. I listen to members on issues and try to bring them up to the board or to Mike directly when I see fit. I am willing to go out and make marketing/partnership deals with companies in this industry to help better the members. My goal for the next 3 years while I sit on the board is as follows: • With the increased sponsorship money, I want to keep the entry fees flat. • Maintain a stable rule book for ChampCar (2020 you can race your car as it was in 2019 without major changes) • No more free parts for any fixed items • Bring back more Midwest races (Autobahn and Mid-Ohio) o Since I am from the Midwest I would like to see these two tracks on the schedule again. I did make contact with Autobahn for 2020, but it will not work out in our schedule. I will continue to be a voice for the Midwest races and a schedule to help those teams from having to travel so far • Remain a voice for members on issues that I see fit and are relevant to help keep this series where it is today and make it better • Continue to keep in mind our target audience: those amateur race drivers and builders who want to compete with a budget build in mind. Think of it as the members who are building the cars in the garage on a shoestring budget rather than in an actual race shop. At the tracks, I am usually the one coming up and chatting with your team about your build and team, trying to get to know all the members of ChampCar and how they like our series and ways we can make it better. I have also reached out to members on issues I see fit to get their opinions, then go back to the board or to Mike and voice my opinion. As always you can email me or give me a call/text on my personal cell phone number. I would appreciate your vote to serve this organization for the next three years. Here is a picture of my family. My wife and I welcomed a future ChampCar member who was just born October 12th
    1 point
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