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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/23/2020 in all areas

  1. Arrived at Siebkens volunteered to help ChampCar this weekend.
    2 points
  2. haha I always assume I have brakes. Maybe I need to revisit my assumptions.
    2 points
  3. When using this point to talk about radiators, I wonder how many assume factory design is insufficient/unreliable vs trying it first to see what really works. Like @QuaTTro we ran the factory 15 yr old plastic/aluminum radiator 23,000 race miles on top of its 100,000+ street miles before a wall ended its cooling career, from there, a used parts store explorer plastic/aluminum rad went in, met the same fate a couple years later. Just saying.
    2 points
  4. FWIW I had a lengthy conversation with a Wilwood rep/engineer at PRI two years ago. I was very impressed with the depth of knowledge, the questions he asked me, and the willingness to evaluate putting together a kit that wasn't just the listed option for my car. Scott
    1 point
  5. Sort of true. I just put a 385 point Miata in into impound at PBIR with almost 8 minute pitstops. I am a little concerned it's about to become a 405 point Miata thanks to the unmarked and nameless radiator that came in the car when I bought it over three years ago though.
    1 point
  6. Like Florah said its a single malt from Aberlour. Cask strength so a little goes a long way lol. Their standard 12 year is fantastic as well. On the bourbon side Id say Basil Hayden and Blanton's are some of my favorite.
    1 point
  7. And put a gear reduction starter in front of them ... it keeps them calm. Or so I've heard. i kid i kid
    1 point
  8. If Mopar 4 life gang is at Siebkens have a designated driver. And A LOT of aspirin.
    1 point
  9. No worries if your braking system is set up for the heat that is generated by racing. Especially the brake fluid. The first time one is coming in hot to a turn in traffic and the pedal goes to the floor it will tighten up the gastrointestinal area. The Ricky Rudd car was 3500lbs and 12 inch brakes. Your tow truck most likely has bigger brakes. This is the reason Mr. Rudd was tapping the brake To make sure someone was home. He was also one of the better road race drivers at that time.
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. +150 on the c3 corvette... that’s heavy. Combined with the unclaimed parts that they had (which one hopes will be added when they next tech) AND 150 fewer points to play with, GBU will have to take off a lot of stuff.
    1 point
  12. Ah, therein lies the difference of opinion. You don't have to spend a mint to go race. However, If you want to be competitive, it is very hard to do so without spending at least as much as your fellow competitors. The trick is finding a race series where the spending amount fits in your comfort level and abilities. Want to be cheap? Watch TV, post on internet forums, race video games, volunteer to help out etc. Have more to spend? I think Formula 1 is the upper tier of the spending bracket. Champcar is somewhere between those two limits.
    1 point
  13. it’s a whole lot easier to left foot brake and match revs with a non synchromesh racing gearbox. Blip the throttle and shift it no clutch needed. Up shift just breath off the throttle and shift. No clutch. I’m looking for a bell housing to mount a Gforce to the M20. Worth the swap points.
    1 point
  14. Single malt. https://www.aberlour.com/en/product/abunadh-scotch-whisky/
    1 point
  15. When sitting in a chair are you able to roll on the ball of your right foot (big toe to little toe and back) but by spreading your right leg from your left? Even with legs that have limited movement I feel cannot do this is more a function of car than driver (for example many cars, the throttle is just way too deep relative to the brake). I do not 'heel & toe', I press the throttle while I brake by whatever means, usually by using the right half of the brake pedal pad and 'spreading my leg' to push throttle with the right hand ball of my foot. Revmatching with downshifts will save a lot of drivetrain damage. Please revote a lot of time to the pedals in your car before concluding you can't. Consider the following changes -Make throttle and brake level in dept in resting position -widen throttle to bring closer to brake pedal -narrow brake pedal (if you want to press on the middle of the pedal but still easily be able to roll the ball of your foot) In conclusion I feel there is no technique to the misleading name of 'heel & toe' the goal is the ability to apply the throttle while braking when you want Good luck!
    1 point
  16. didnt you read the disclaimer? Haha Thanks, they were all backwards. The OP has been corrected now. So everyone's weight went up except for the S13 and kouki s14s
    1 point
  17. In my experience, boxing in the rad is way more important than which rad you run. i went back to stock to make room for a header in points and there was virtually no difference in running temps.
    1 point
  18. We are a team with 2 new builds and an existing build for 2021. We love Champcar for the great racing and tracks. That being said I am somewhat irked about how many free points are being handed out each year. I don’t want to have to go buy a new radiator, new alternator, new willwood big brake kits, etc. if these are free in terms of points, the best/fastest teams will typically (not always) take advantage and use them. This means I’m forced to do it as well if I want to be competitive and isn’t that what we all want. If reliability mods become free, I’ll have to buy an oil cooler, etc as well so we can push harder. We are putting an oil cooler on one of our cars and paying points for it. Will it make us faster, no. But it’ll be safer and more fun to drive without worrying about blowing up. /endrant
    1 point
  19. Friday was Dyno Day! Still needs a lot of work in the not idle or WOT range, but at least we were able to get some good baseline timing numbers and AFRs dialed in for WOT. Removed the secondary manifold runners butterflies and actuation shafts, went to a simpler intake tube (no more MAFS!), and a REAL K&N air filter (how's that for cost creep?!). Final tally was +11 hp and +4 torque. The really incredible part is torque at 2500 rpm is 144, and max at 4600 rpm is 154. Pretty damn flat! Also drives completely differently now, feels much much faster and sportier. Not sure how much the shape of the curve changed, but the car feels miles better now. I was shocked at the difference, because 11 horsepower just doesn't seem like all that much. I also welded up some control arm extensions to replace our bolt-ons thingies: And we added nostrils: And there's more money in wheels and tires in the tacoma than the tacoma is worth (we're finally going to something sticky, and the Azenis were significantly cheaper than the ventus): Still to go: new splitter, finish cleaning up wiring, tune AFR everywhere below 90 kpa and above 1500 rpm, integrate new shift light/dash, install new gauge pod and gauges, bullet-proof our battery tie down (someone else's thread scared me), put some tape over the holes in the bumper caused by our MCM encounter, install new control arms, replace one CV axle, brakes, oil change, alignment, and optimize our y-pipe. Only two weekends left before Sebring. This is gonna be close.
    1 point
  20. Thanks Jerry! The problem isn't alternator per se. Its because a team basically asked for something for free and it was just handed to them. Why do we need to write a petition for something that wasn't petitioned to go into the rules? Why c ant we just follow the bccr? I didn't think rules could be made up (unless safety) without a petition.
    1 point
  21. All this would be soooo much easier if we would just make it simple: OEM replacement - FREE OES replacement - FREE Aftermarket replacement that matches OEM / OES - FREE Aftermarket (not matching OE in form/fit/function) or Performance part replacement - POINTS Items that have little relative speed advantage - 5 pts ea. (radiator / alternator / coolers / accusump) Items that have more of a speed advantage 10 pts ea. (brakes / shocks / springs / FLARES) Fight over the relative point value, but stop giving more stuff away!!! How on earth a "budget" race series got to "FREE" 4 pot racing calipers I will never understand. The fact that the probability of rolling back the gravy train is very low is the very reason I would love to see a redo of the classes including two open and two "limited prep" - BEFORE we run off all those that don't want to just keep spending to keep up with more "FREE" stuff.
    1 point
  22. Yall ever heard of a shop that won't sell time on their dyno for a baseline run? They only want to do tuning. I just wanted to see how much power I lost but apparently thats not allowed.
    0 points
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