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  1. Hi FocusedSteve, Congratulations on picking a Ford Focus to build. And we are excited to see more Foci joining Champcar. I hope you’ll find the Champcar community as friendly and as accepting as we have. We, team Blue Shells, are deeply concerned about all the accusations you have listed on this forum. First and foremost, it is unfair to personally call-out one of our teammates. Phill Miller is a valued member of our larger team, but only an equal member of our larger team. All decisions, work done, and finances paid for are completed by the team and not a single individual. Next, we are very concerned that anyone would ever accuse any official at Champcar of being dishonest in anyway. We have found the complete opposite to be true. Everyone in the Champcar organization has been both extremely fair (and tough at times – when safety or rules bare the need), and always very kind to everyone who participates. Many of these people who work for Champcar are volunteers (or paid very little) so that the rest of us can go have fun. We cannot say thank you enough times for all that they do for the entire community. Finally, you have accused us of not following the rules when it comes to our car. This is true, but not in all the ways you have accused us. We kindly ask that you give us a moment to break it all down for you; 1) How do you change a cars year of manufacture and get reduced points instead of an engine swap calculator and added points? This was done via a Chassis swap per rule 4.6.1. Champcar sees a Focus ZX3 with a 2.3L Durtec engine as a 200 point car. We converted our entire chassis to a Ford Focus ZX3, therefore it has become a 200 point car. 2) Did anyone even notice that it’s a 2.5L engine, not a 2.3L? (Does Champcar check displacement at post-race tech inspection?) We could see how someone might confuse our 2.3L engine with a 2.5L. We are using the intake from a Duratec 2.5L engine on our 2.3L. We have also claimed this in our points. We absolutely are using a 2.3L engine, block and head.We would be happy to have the stroke or bore measured to prove it. 3) What are the rules on swapped suspension parts? Here you have us! At the last race, we were called out by the tech inspection team for having adjustable shocks. And in the end, per rules listed in the technical subs, we were not in compliance. We purchased single way adjustable shocks, we then adjusted them to our liking, and sent them back to the manufacturer to be made into non-adjustable shocks. Unbeknown to us, the manufacturer sent us back our previous shocks with adjustment shaft in the center of the main rod removed and a nice shiny cap on top of the main rods and told us that they were now non-adjustable. We thought they were different shocks all together (they cost like it), and we really thought we were in compliance with regulation 4.3.2 “Shock absorbers / struts over the 2x limit and/or with damping adjustment, 25 pts per corner” as these shocks were no longer “with damping adjustment.” We were told, after the race, of ChampCar Tech Desk knowledgebase 2020-01-10 - Turning an adjustable damper to non-adjustable. Where it states: “Once a shock is built to be adjustable (rebound and/or compression) it will always incur points as an adjustable shock at 25 points per corner.” The tech inspectors were very hard on us.They reviewed all the evidence we had at the time, along with trying to adjust the shocks anyway they could think of. Since the shock was not adjustable in impound, and they were un-adjustable shocks to us, the tech inspectors let us go. We were given a very strict warning to get all the needed evidence to prove that these shocks were never originally adjustable before our next race. Directly after the race weekend, we went back to the manufacturer to get proof that we were compliant, but found out that, we were not! We have already removed the offending shocks from our car. We are still searching for an adjustable spring perch Monroe style shock tube without an adjustable damping system and fear that we will have to convert our entire shock and spring package back to stock or miss our next race. We don’t have the fastest car in our class; We are only able to win through perseverance. We have worked very hard to just get a car which can finish a day of racing. Just like everyone else on the grid, we really want to show up with a car which is completely legal. We do hope you are successful in your build, and despite all of this we would welcome any questions you might have about how best to build a road racing Focus, what parts work or don’t work, and our lessons learned after building 2 different chassis. We also communicate with several other Focus teams, both in the Champcar series and in Lemons. We typically share our lessons learned, our sob stories, and share our solutions to problems we have encountered on track or in the garage. We would love to have another Ford Focus in the fold with us at Champcar.
    14 points
  2. Did someone mention light panels at corner stations??? Yes, this has been in the R&D phase behind the scenes for the last few races, and we got permission last week from VIR to go all out! As this will be my 4th time racing in the VIR24, I know how dark it gets out there. I hope this will help to improve safety, especially at night!
    8 points
  3. I am so excited that it is finally race week. Looking forward to getting back to the track and seeing everyone, oh and to get to do a little driving too. Who else is ready for Friday to get here? Or are you wishing you had another week to get everything finished?
    7 points
  4. Looks like I am coming after all. The team I am helping did a test day weekend before last which ended up in a fireball and a rod outside the block, but they got a new engine installed and are good to go now.
    6 points
  5. after some false starts with other approaches, finally got down to biz on the fenders.....
    6 points
  6. Yay! Another LT4! Tons of suggestions routes you could take. The main one I'd suggest; find someone that will trade you for their '90-'91 manual car + cash. You'll have a better starting point and you can throw the money towards the build. Mainly, you can't lose points and without doing an engine swap, you're going to be at 550points. More info below: Points: If you're serious about getting it under the 500points, you need to find an L98 from an '88-'91 Vette and do the complete swap (ECU/Harness/ETC); it will be the tuned port motor w/ Al heads. Declare it as a '91 and you'll be at 450 points. You can sell the LT4 in there for decent money; keep the harness intact and with the computer, it's worth about $1500-$2500 together depending on the market down there. The LT4 starts at 550 so you're hosed walking through the door. The motors are drag and drop in from a mechanical standpoint, just keep the block mount brackets to attach to the later model C4 K-Member. Cage: Find your tallest driver and build the cage around them. These cars suck getting in and out of with the stock roof line; getting the cage under the roof leaves very little room for "oh poop, I'm upside down and on fire". Transmission: You have what's called a "blue tag". It has a dual mass FW. FW is good for the street, garbage for the track. Try and find a used aftermarket steel FW. Any clutch kit you get, the FW must be for the L98 which I believe has a different balance than the '96 and the throwout bearing for the '96. The blue tags have a smaller diameter input shaft sleeve than the black tags; the TO bearings aren't interchangeable. Carolina Clutch is a good source for reasonably priced clutch kits for these cars. Get the stage 3. Don't do unsprung; harder on the driveline and not worth it. Engine: Again, the LT4 forces you to be a '96 and you walk in the door w/ 550points before you upgrade anything. You can switch to the L98 to enter as a '91 and start at 450points. My suggestion is you spend ALL these points on cooling/oiling, even if you're going further into the hole for the LT4. I know the rules are about to change next year WRT radiators; will have to check how it will impact, but Champion makes a very inexpensive 2 core AL radiator (<$200). Regardless of engine you chose, you're going to want to crack it open, check out the bearings, and do a basic refresh on the motor. At minimum you're going to want to ARP the rods, new bearings, and have the bores cleaned up. Get some ARP head bolts for if you inevitably have to change the heads. The L98s intake/exhaust is horribly limiting; they fall flat around 4500-5000 rpm. They make good torque, but no HP up top. This is actually a GOOD thing for survivability; early shifting. High RPM kills these motors, notably the rods. So it's imperative to keeping it well oiled and well cooled. With that in mind, do a aftermarket radiator and a accusump. One of the reasons the LT4 sucks is it uses the optispark. I have changed this damn things more times than I care to admit. The L98 uses a traditional distributor. Suspension: Obviously rebuild it with new bushings. All manual transmission C4 vettes came with a Dana 44 which is bulletproof for stock HP. More than likely a 3.45 rear ratio. Don't waste your time on cheap wheel bearings, they will only last a single race if that. Moog bearings are pricey but they have 3 year warranties. (Timken only have 1). On the front, you'll need to have someone cut/shave down the spherical washers the upper a-arms mount to get any sort of negative camber, especially once you start cutting weight out of the car. For springs, you'll have to look up the codes but get the absolute stiffest one up front and softest in the rear. Not so much a problem on the '96 but earlier years were horribly oversprung in the ass. Did this once at the track. Every braking zone was a game of chase your tail. Brakes: Upgrade to the C5 kit at minimum up front regardless of the year C4 you land on; stock C4 brakes can't take extended track abuse. I run carbotech X12's in the front with good luck. Stock brakes in back are sufficient and I run XP10's in the rear to prevent lockup. Other: Sell the gauge cluster. It's a one year only unit; the tach goes to 8k vs normal 7k due to the LT4 revving higher. Corvette owners fap over this. Worth about $400. Sell everything else you can in the car interior as well. It all has to come out anyway. Again, the '96 is a good car but honestly, I really think you'd be better off trading/selling it and getting a '90-'91. You can see with all the stuff you'll have to do, it's going to get really expensive really quickly.
    6 points
  7. Damn fella, you know how to come out of the gate spittin fire. 1. Champcar doesn't check vin's. You can buy a 2002 focus and race it as a 2003 focus. If there are differences in the years, you need to account for them. You can't take the Best 2002 parts and put them on your 2003 and call it a 2003. It needs to be raced in a factory configuration. You cant take a 2003 focus and race it as a 2008 focus, since that is a 2nd gen chassis. This is for cost control. The focus came with a 2.3 so its not an engine swap to race it with a 2.3, as long as it has the correct 2.3 for the year being claimed, and all the associated parts. All 1st gen foci are 200 points (except the svt) so this is really a minimal issue on this platform. 2. Champcar can and has checked displacement at impound, upon request. 3. You can swap suspension points. Specifically hubs are 2.5 points each.
    6 points
  8. @Blacksheepbob Thanks for providing the community with a very thoughtful and respectful explanation, and for extending the olive branch to a potential new team. Thank you for some nice comments regarding Champcar, as well as the make up of your teams, the Blue Shells. In this case, it would have been very easy and tempting for you come back with a defensive or negative response. Thank you for the professionalism and kindness that is shown. Hopefully others will see this and grow to enjoy the community of friendly racers that our ChampCar community has become.
    5 points
  9. I am also concerned about the accusation about buying off a tech inspector from someone who had never been to impound When you got invited to your girlfriend’s parents for dinner, did you walk in and ask “so is this slut your mom?” We welcome new people and I don’t object to many of your questions, but maybe wait until you have some actual experience before you throw out accusations.
    5 points
  10. While you do have a point I think the value is a bit high. Not trying to demonize the Porsche, merely a comparison, I believe they have a decent fuel supply as well
    4 points
  11. Properly sized fuses in a unmodified config should never blow.
    4 points
  12. At the gate you simply tell them that you want electricity and pay $35. They'll give you a tag to affix to your cord. There are power poles spaced throughout the paddock but the challenge is getting a spot near a pole; there is about one power pole for every eight paddock spaces. That said, with 60-something entries, getting access to power should not prove to be problematic. Bring extra extension cords in case you have to run it a longer distance to reach a box. Cheers!
    4 points
  13. http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k224/johnny_3301/IMG_1792_zps596ee481.jpg I remember reading an article about the rapid change in tire width and rim width in the early sixties. IIRC, the tire engineers thought that the tire should be wider than the rim and the rim engineers thought the rim should be wider than the tire. Testing went back and forth with a wider tire then a wider rim, and in the space of about six months the combo went from pretty narrow rims and tires to about double the width, with grip increasing every time. That apparently flew in the face of accepted physics which basically said that the available friction was dependent on the normal force and not the contact area. As they say, the theory says it should work in practice, but if it doesn't, it's time for a new theory.
    4 points
  14. Back to the ChampCar grind after our fantasy rounds of summer, and it's time for the big one. AS the VIR 24 is renowned as one of the toughest ChampCar races of the year, so the iRacing Series will test our drivers to the limit. Please note that this round features a couple of unique parameters as befitting a special round of the series. First off, this race is 2 hours in length to match the maximum stint time of a real ChampCar race. This means qualifying and the race start an hour earlier than the other rounds this season (to ensure an on-time finish). Please be ready to register accordingly to ensure you do not miss out. Please also note that the in-sim time multiplier is set to 8x. This means that the time will advance 8x faster than normal when in session, meaning that (hopefully) the race will start at dusk, rapidly turn dark for the majority of the race before finishing at dawn in the early morning sun. The race will test the field to their limits, much like the real race. Good luck! Session Details Practice Round: Wednesday, 28-July-2021 Championship Round: Wednesday, 4-August-2021 Practice Start: 6:30pm ET Qualifying Start: 7:30pm ET Race Start: 8:30pm ET Car: Mazda Miata NC Cup Track: Virginia International Raceway - Full Course In-Sim Practice Session Date: Saturday, 7-August-2021 In-Sim Practice Session Start Time: 7:00am In-Sim Qualifying Session Date: Saturday, 7-August-2021 In-Sim Qualifying Session Start Time: 10:00am In-Sim Race Session Date: Wednesday, Saturday, 7-August-2021 In-Sim Race Session Start Time: 5:00pm In-Sim Time Multiplier: 8x Weather: Auto-Generated Setup: iRacing Baseline Fixed Setup with 6.4g starting fuel Fast Repairs: 1 License Requirements: Practice Rounds (None), Championship Round (>D2.0) Useful Links ChampCar iRacing Series - League Application Discord Server 2021 ChampCar iRacing Series schedule 2021 CCiS Broadcast Information Form 2021 CCiS Protest Form Guide to iRacing and Hardware How to create your own iRacing paints iRacing Tips and Resources
    3 points
  15. Good luck to all you lucky teams racing this year! 24 is a heck of an event, someone make sure Bill stays awake the whole time. I'll be watching as much as I can.
    3 points
  16. This is the best test. I usually use a spill free funnel on the radiator filled to a mark so I can watch for volume increase. Sometimes it takes a long time for bubbles to migrate to the cap.
    3 points
  17. I am just trying to figure out how I am going to get all my ChampCar.Live gear, new swag, and some car parts for a member there. I need a bigger truck! I'll be there Thursday night.
    3 points
  18. Battery life is very good! Lasted for DAYS in my testing last week.
    3 points
  19. I like beating people with my LT1 and having many unknowns... that way I can be just as shocked as they are...
    3 points
  20. Yes. You may find that the engine likes slightly over 13:1 AFR.
    3 points
  21. Tune fuel pressure @ wot under load to achieve target afr and let the rest fall wherever it does?
    3 points
  22. He was last in the car Saturday and did the fastest lap of the day on the last lap. I feel that the digital tech forms should be able to be viewed by others. Being in tech at the Autobahn there were many times when a item was not moved from the paper tech form to the digital format seemed like an honest mistake and there are probably more of that out there. If tech forms were viewed before hand I think that would better prepare teams before heading to impound in regard to a protest.
    3 points
  23. Alias StigDad here. Debuting new whip at Road America and looking for 2 drivers willing to have fun with us on our shakedown cruise of Odyesseus ( Vander ZanderVan ) Those of you who remember me will know i always threatened to Race The Van...well it's a promise now. 2004 Hondog Odyssey. This being a shakedown event, we know what that can mean. So if Da Van breaks we'll comp you for another race, If YOU break Da Van welllllll...you comp us. email me for details at merkdawg325@hotmail.com Kent Merkle
    3 points
  24. How about the fact that they had an SCCA wiz kid in the car that went some 3 seconds faster than the car has been. Then with some coaching from him the other guys improved. As soon as a car starts to win the team is cheating when in fact it's preparation and having quality drivers. I've never lost a rear bearing in my Focus. Broke front hubs but took the points to get the billet ones. Accusing someone of Buying off an Official is pretty bold. You sound like you know Phil why don't you approach him instead of airing it out on the forums?
    3 points
  25. 3 points
  26. Yeah, so the sunroof is free, either by welding the steel cover in place or by removing it and using a piece of metal to cover the opening. But you can't then take the OE steel and fashion it into something else for free. And 100% what I'm saying about the OE bulkhead. You can't remove the OE bulkhead, fashion a "free" bulkhead (required by rules) out of different material, then take the OE material and make something.
    3 points
  27. Just a quick follow up. RS-4 225/45 fit under the fenders of 2000 Civic with no issues. 41 mm offset on 7 in wide wheel. With and without 6mm spacers. Also, these tires were shockingly good! I’ve been using purple crack SM7s and have not run a 200TW tire on this car before. While the Hankooks could not match the outright pace of (new) Hoosiers, they were very “drivable” and posted very consistent laps over 60 minutes. 10 of my 17 fast laps were within 0.6 secs. All data is from Road Atlanta at 90+ degrees and stifling humidity. YMMV. Someone will want to know, so, best ever lap at RdAtl 1:46.6. Best Hankook lap, 1:48.8 on the 19th lap.
    3 points
  28. This whole situation would be simpler if we were not repurposing parts.
    3 points
  29. Leakdown and watch for bubbles in the rad to locate the bad hole.
    2 points
  30. Got it! Maybe my problem is that all I see is Mazdas at Harris Hill
    2 points
  31. They are heavy, like triple firewall heavy, you have to cut them up like you hate it.
    2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. 1991 Mustang GT - 15.4 Gallons 1991 Corvette - 20 gallons
    2 points
  34. I'm pretty sure the 2nd and 3rd gen Camaros/60's Mustangs/the C3R/C4 Vettes etc are running distros. Kind of ridiculous they get banged 20 points for an ancient tech distributor/MSD box while ECU's are free.
    2 points
  35. I agree this part of the rules is outdated, and more than a little confusing. I take it that this part of the rules is to charge points if someone wanted to run a MSD distributor and or ignition box Distributor, non-OE, or aftermarket ignition system: 20 pt But in 2021 why would you ever run a distributor in the first place? The rule regarding coils reads. Ignition coil(s), aftermarket: 10 pt It doesn’t say anything about using coils from a different Chevy engine. The aftermarket ignition system rule is made kind of redundant by the free ECU rule, since even the cheapest modern ECU can run both fuel and ignition. I believe this area of the rules is outdated because nobody has really investigated it for a while, the vast majority of people running in ChampCar today don’t have to worry about distributors or MSD boxes. Seems like an area ripe for a petition.
    2 points
  36. To answer your questions - Harness: Just cut the crap out you don't need from the harness. It's really not that difficult. You'll have to get the ECU tuned to have the stuff like the secondary O2's and the passkey stuff removed. I think the company I used for this was LT1PCMTuning or something of that sort; guys name was Simon. Fairly inexpensive (~$150). The '96 cars use OBII and it takes a special SW to tune it (HPTuners will NOT work). I think it's call Dynamic Spectrum Tuner. The PCM is finicky when getting programmed as in sometimes when you're tuning it will randomly brick itself. You can use the ECU out of a '97 Camaro as a backup. In '96 (and '97 camaro LT1/LT4) the cars came with a crank position sensor. This sensor does not control anything about timing/etc and is only used for diagnostic; it allows the PCM to determine exactly which cylinder has/had a misfire. Brakes: I've had nothing but good luck with the C5. IIRC The C6 Z51 calipers are simply slightly more rigid than the c5 setup so they don't taper the pad as much. Dealers choice. Pinto Dave: Don't listen to a word that man says. He sold me to a bunch of australian pigmies for a nickel one year and it took my 4 months to save up for airfare to get back. Dave is good people; he loaned me an opti one time after my third one crapped out on the track. . . Once you get a good opti, keep it forever. AC Compressor: The bearing is actually separated from the internals; it's a sealed bearing that rests on an outside lip. You'll remove the armature anyway (as well as the internals) so it's not a problem.
    2 points
  37. I can add one extra point, I have worked with bellows engineers on multistage turbo applications. The one thing that will always cause bellows failure very quickly is any twisting motion. In your case since you also replaced the 3 bolt flanges with v-bands it could be possible that once the connections were up to temperature the v-band flanges slipped and caused a twisting load to the bellows. Its also possible that in the instillation process the flange had some twisting motion as the v-band was tightened down. I would always prefer a v-band flange over a bolted flange, but in your case you may benefit from installing a small anti rotation pin on the v-band flange. We use them all the time on turbos.
    2 points
  38. So these, at the slip where the runners enter the merge?
    2 points
  39. Do you need the bellows? Looks like you have room for thermal expansion at the Y, if you make slip joints there. If you have welded the pipe at that point, hopefully you can remove the weld. At the slip joint use tabs and bolts with mechanical interference nuts to keep the slip joint from separating. Design the joint so the slip joint is only 3/4 or so engaged when at rest (room to grow) with bolts set to have minimal slop at this point. FWIW most of the race cars I have seen use slip joints over bellows. On my own cars I have never been able to make the bellows last when mounted near the engine\hot side of the exhaust.
    2 points
  40. Fuel injection connection has a good video displaying what happens to the stock injectors passed 60psi;
    2 points
  41. Great practice race. Jay, Mark, Clinton and I all had our time at the front. I have a newfound respect for the difficulty of staying in P1. Led 23 laps and was really in the mix for about 2/3 the race until I made a mistake in turn 3 that ended with a close encounter with the barrier. 9 cars entered, and somewhere over an hour in there was 1 second between P1 and P3! Crowded at the front.
    2 points
  42. What he said! Points be damned, keep it "his" car If this happens, I can supply a spare set of matching rims from my late brothers vette.
    2 points
  43. That was some solid advice! But... I am going to suggest, contrary to the excellent advice above, if you are want to use this fallen officer's car as a racing memorial, consider eating the points. Let it be the "officer's car". I think the emotional value for people might be greater if it was really "his car" not just a shell with a platform swap. Kinda made me think of the song Riding with Private Malone that was on the radio a lot a few years back. Either way, I think this is a great project and look forward to seeing what you do with it! Ff you haven't already reach out to the 100 Club they might have some good contacts or people interested. Might even be able to get some media coverage, even if you don't have front runner. For example: NASCAR Truck Team Remembers Fallen State Trooper Tyler Edenhofer (sports360az.com) Also that is a great example of using the agency's livery as well. Do you know his badge number? Might be cool to put it on the car. Might be able to get some PR support from the agency itself if you reach out to their PIO.
    2 points
  44. The fuel injection doesn't know what changes you made to the engine, all it does is read the various sensors and command a pulse width based on the programmed fuel map. If a change you made improves the air flow through the engine (eg, better exhaust scavenging), the MAF should read that improvement and adjust the AFR accordingly. The compression ratio change will affect thermal efficiency and improve the engine's output and fuel usage but won't change the commanded AFR.
    2 points
  45. yep.....actually we went 2s faster on 225's at Road America...That was average times btw, I do not focus on ftd....Gingerman will be an even better test for us to really analyze data. I can only assume that at some point the amount of HP provided by the vehicle to drive the increase in friction comes into play in similar way to drag vs. hp. 225's on 9's just seem to work well for our hp number. Also, wear is identical if not better with the 225s, more uniformity.
    2 points
  46. 100% agree. We only blow fuses when we do something dumb. Not sure how you have things grounded, but (me) being bad at electricity, that seems to be a common issue with automotive wiring. Nobody thinks about grounds when doing maintenance. Wires and wire bundles that move around can cause issues. Also, just make sure all of your end terminals are covered in some way.
    2 points
  47. I'd be arguing the dash bar. If it doesn't say you can't do it, and it is done in a safe way, take it to the race director. If it is done in a way that I'd dangerous or doesn't meet a minimum level of safety, then I guess that's tough luck. At the end of the day, if it isn't in the bccr, appeal to the higher power (race director).
    2 points
  48. But something lika dis...
    2 points
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