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Billy's Achievements



  1. We were concerned we got trash in our lines when installing them and blew them all out with compressed air before buttoning up the connections. You could try disconnecting the lines at the extinguisher and shooting air thru it and make sure you're at least getting air from all nozzles. You'd at least blow out any residual stuff in the system. Not a perfect method but better than nothing.
  2. I was going to comment similar but this sums it up nicely. I'm a newbie so take my opinion with a grain of salt, but what's to keep someone from showing up with a "Spec X", and dropping a bunch of weight? Tech inspectors would need to know the rulebooks for spec E30/Miata/Boxster/944, and would need a way to weigh and tech each car. What about rule changes in the leagues? If I show up with a 3 year old Spec X is that okay? Seems like a lot of complication.
  3. I PM'ed the OP of the thread with some information, but since we both were having the same issues I wanted to share what we did to fix ours. We wound up getting the advanced motorsports drop pan https://www.advanced-autosports.com/products/spec-miata-floor-drop - it was a pain to put in after the cage was installed, but can be done. We decided to do it ourselves after being quoted some outrageous prices on fab work for this. It took 8+ hours for 3 of us to get it cut and tacked in (none of us are professional fabricators). We were able to do it without removing/touching any parts of the cage. The pan drop does a few things - adds 1.25" additional clearance baseline, provides a completely flat seat mounting surface, and allows you to shift the seat much closer to the center of the car where the highest part of your cage is. You can see from just the back of the seat where the belt goes through how much space we gained. Also note the tallest driver (6 ft) is now ~1" inside the main hoop. We don't have the seat permanently mounted yet, but we can get even more clearance by adding more lean. For any other newbies that find this thread in the future - do the pan drop before the cage. If you don't do a pan drop, do not run a hard top and run a much larger main hoop. Use an aluminum seat, mount it on the floor. If I bought another seat, I'd buy a kirkey containment seat. Mount seat closest to center of car, and mount it and the drop pan before doing cage. If you screwed up like we did and put your cage in first, you can fix it, just it's a huge pain to do so. After dropping the pan, adding a new harness bar is going to be required as it is no longer in the correct position. After our adventure, I think every Miata needs the pan drop - it's going to give everyone more space from the bars and gives you way more freedom for positioning the seat. I wouldn't build a Miata without one. Feel free to PM me if you get in this situation and I can provide more details, pics etc.
  4. Thanks all for the input and reassurance. Definitely overwhelming when you see some of the builds and lap times some people are doing.
  5. We're a new team torn between what league we want to try to run with. We've got a car built to safety specs that will pass Champ/Lemons and some other leagues. Problem is we do not have the budget to invest $10000+ into our car. We don't want to be "in the way" or a safety issue for others or ourselves. Our car is mostly stock (NB Miata) - stock exhaust, suspension, etc. The only "upgrade" we have is wheels/tires/brakes (Toyo R1Rs, SS lines, race pads/rotors), everything else we have done is all maintenance items to make the car reliable. Looking at some of the builds, lap times, etc. - are we going to be too slow? From an experience perspective we are all putting a lot of sim time in but very little practical experience besides autocross. Champ is attractive to us because we aren't very interested in the theme and such with Lemons. Champ also has an easier roll cage clearance requirement than Lemons does, and one of our guys is going to be pretty close based on Lemons rules with the 2" from all bars. We fully expect to finish bottom of the pack but just are concerned that we would be way too slow and be in the way.
  6. IDK what you decided to do, but we decided to go with a drop pan. We took a cap to a spray can and marked some lines on it with some tape. 3/4" for ChampCar (half the thickness of the 1.5" tubing), and 2" for Lemons (which requires 2" from all bars). I'm 5'9" and would be borderline under the hoop. Our 6' driver is nowhere close. We will never make the clearance for Lemons, and our 6' driver will be close but think he will clear for Champ. The drop pan will gain us 1.25" (went with https://www.advanced-autosports.com/products/spec-miata-floor-drop?_pos=1&_sid=ad72e5e7a&_ss=r ). In addition, we can move the seat closer to the center of the car which will give us a bit more room (hoping for another 0.25-0.5"). We also have to figure out what to do with our door bars (seat will likely not drop as low as possible due to door bar being formed around seat), and our harness bar is also going to be an issue. We figure the drop pan makes everyone safer. I'm still not sure how people are running a top with standard height drivers (<6ft), as our main hoop is rubbing against the top. Maybe people are putting the main hoop slightly more toward the front of the car giving additional height? Not sure how this adventure is going to go with a cage already being in, but will let you know once we get it done which will likely be a month or so out at a minimum as none of us can weld it. The first pics are the 6' driver, second pics are the 5'9" driver.
  7. We're a team of newbies also, and are following this thread closely as we are having similar issues in our Miata, but think we are okay. We're continuing to measure and double check everything. IDK what seat you have but we have the TDR ultrashield 16" seat with the TDR low mounts. This gives you about a 20 degree lean and puts you about as close to the floor as you can get and provides a bit of lean which helps with clearance. The top of our seat back is between 3-4" below our main hoop. We're still considering a floor pan drop, but then there's the struggle of doing that after the cage is already in. Our main hoop scrapes the inside of our Treasure Coast fiberglass top. Honestly it's so frustrating but hoping it's worth it...my next car will be much bigger if I build another one. It's a struggle. Good luck! Edit: Just wanted to add, you're probably going to have the exact same problem we're having with your harness bar, if you drop your seat the bar might be too high and you won't be able to get the correct angle on your belts.
  8. We have our seat on the TDR low mount which gets it almost on the floor with a 20 degree tilt so we are about as close to the floor without doing a drop pan as we can get. I was afraid to cut the towers as they seem pretty rigid and didn't want to sacrifice any structural integrity of the car. Is cutting those towers off common? If we could do that then welding a U shaped bar the length of the cage would work and I assume would pass easily.
  9. New team - was unsure if we should submit a tech desk ticket or ask here. We need to change the location of our harness bar to get the correct angle on our belts. Can we fabricate a bolt in bar between the seat belt pillars in a Miata and pass tech inspection? We would be using the 1.5x.120 DOM tubing and large spreader plates (roughly the size of the belt pillars). We'd like to use bolt in to keep access to the parcel shelf panels. See picture for mounting location. Our belt hardware is binding against the back of the seat in any position due to us putting the seat all the way back so this would solve two issues for us.
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