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NigelStu

Technical Advisory Committee
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NigelStu last won the day on December 3 2020

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  1. Bump up, I'll be heading over to Road America this weekend and can throw these in the truck. All good usable rubber. Price drop. RE71Rs --> $30/tire direzza 3, 4, 6, 7 --> $20/tire direzza 5, 8, 9, 10 --> $10/tire Message me by Thursday night and I'll bring them out to Rd. Amer for you.
  2. We currently have "2" run groups, why not make that 3? Let them run built as their Spec Rules dictate, with ChampCar tire rules. Give them their own group to run in, winner goes to impound same as EC. SPEC cars can self police to NASA/SCCA rules as we normally do. Overall/A-D class EC SPEC Simplifies the rules thing, gives those guys a place to run AND a decent shot at a trophy that they most likely couldn't get running EC. Trial it out, see how it shakes out and make adjustments as determined from the trials.
  3. Bump - Can bring any of these to Mid-Ohio this weekend - toss an offer my way!
  4. Anyone need a good running VVT Miata engine? Entice me to bring it to Gingerman for you. Could be available Friday night or Saturday night if someone has an unexpected need for it for this weekend; pick-up/delivery charges will apply
  5. Finally finished up the new exhaust installation to go along with the engine remove/replace (found a few bent valves after Rd America.. ugh), and fuel cell install. And fired up the car for the first time since Rd. Amer. Just in time for Nelsons!
  6. Cross Posted to FB ChampCar Swap Meet: https://www.facebook.com/groups/4339573329386406/permalink/4551340638209673/?sale_post_id=4551340638209673 I'll be coming to Road America and can have all of these with me - price drop I have a handful of used tires with some life left in them. 8 direzza ZIII 255/40R17, 2 RE71Rs 245/45R17. RE71Rs (tires labeled 1+2 in pictures) have some decent tread left. These were right side tires for a few hours at Gingerman IIRC. Good for a day plus on unloaded side of car, maybe if your car is super good on tires a day in any spot. Good spares or to toss on some life towards end of the day. Tires 3-10, all Direzza, have varying life left, most are good for a day+ on most cars. Probably squeeze a weekend. #5, 8 9, 10 probably ok for a day if flipped (more shoulder wear), good for spare or definitely good practice / OTD tires. I can bring to Gingerman, Mid-Ohio Road America. Or pickup in South Lyon MI. $40/tire for RE71Rs --> $30/tire $30/tire for 3, 4, 6, 7 --> $20/tire $20/tire for 5, 8, 9, 10 --> $10/tire Will deal if you take most/all. More Pics of tires located in FB link
  7. IMO, E36 M50/M52 is still an easy button top-10 car with a good set of drivers and decent strategy at most tracks. Takes a lot more work / prep on the car and a solid team to get to impound. As it stands, it takes some luck (like perfect FCY pit stops that other don't take or the super pointy end cars not showing up/finishing w/o issues) and/or some type of major home-field advantage to go home with a trophy. My current limitation is $. Power/speed and fuel stint length are a bit short of podium level. Significant changes needed to improve both. That said - E36 is a solid platform, not too difficult to find a decent donor at reasonable price, easy to drive near limit, mostly easy to work on, not terrible on consumables and easy to find replacement parts.
  8. If it is done right with rules / common sense in mind, you end up with an easy way to jack entire side of the car while leaving really good spots to put the jack stands (aka, the a-pillar and main hoop touch down points / or stock jacking points) Can you see it? Curved bar that goes down from the middle of the sill bar, inside the rocker. It protrudes locally under the body about the thickness of the plate that is welded to the bottom of the tube, also about the same height off the ground as the non-flattened pinch weld and sits higher than the floor pan. It is not structure, nor exo-skeleton and does not extend past body line when viewed from above, or lower than the lowest plane of the body. Similar treatment to passenger side.
  9. Looks good on the verticals. Gussets/corner tabs at the main hoop / a-pillar are a good thing to add as well. Helps make the cage more rigid and maintain driver cell shape. And gussets/tabs for dash bar / main hoop cross bar while you are in there.
  10. I would put one just inside of the bend radius on both ends (just aft of bend at front, just forward of bend at rear), and 3rd in the middle between those 2 points. The idea is to keep things from making it between the horizontal bars, so evenly spaced at as close to door skin as possible makes sense. Alternatively, line up the rear one with drivers hip (which is probably really close to about where that rear bend is) and then even space up to the front one - this gives that extra protection where your most valuable item is in the car. Alternative for center vertical post - offset from centered between FR/RR vertical tubes to line it up with approximate CG of vehicle, and extend another tube down from same node to use a jack point to get left side of car up.
  11. Newer cars, so many circuits and stuff that it is risky to just chop stuff out. Immobilizer aspect adds another level of frustration. I know na/nb miatas and find even the NBs a pita for wiring - megasquirt on my '03 street/track car and there are a couple things that are still just not right.. I don't want to dig into it all to correct, so I just deal with it. Engine swaps in NA/NB adds a level of complexity. No experience with NC yet. Pairing down a stock harness can be done, but it takes time, patience and a REALLY good set of wiring diagrams. I wouldn't be surprised if something got cut/removed/disconnected that the car wants to see. With all the extra 'stuff', grounds are very important. Check ALL of them This is a race car, right? Not something you'd normally (or ever?) take on the street, gets locked away when not in use? If your main issue was immobilizer and ABS, carefully go over that set of circuits, especially grounds and any cut circuits associated with them to ensure no accidental ground/closed circuits. Tip for immobilizer issue is to zip tie a key (with the chip in it) to the dash at the ignition cylinder and use a blank/spare key or button to start the car. It removes the 'protection' but ensures that the car will see that chip it thinks it needs to safely go to the grocery store. With the unknowns of what was done, the easy/quick/cheap button is to put a new complete harness in, being very mindful of ground points (get that wiring diagram out!) and just do a harness swap. Don't unpin anything, only disconnect stuff you for sure don't need (audio, seat adjustment, etc) until you want to start searching for those extra tenths of a second. Reliability far outweighs the ~10 lbs of wiring/components that you may be able to remove. Options - Opt 1: Change over to a Stand-alone with a built to need harness - cleanest install method, moderate cost/time to get it right, theoretically most reliable since you are limiting circuits/components to just what is needed. Opt 2: source a custom harness for stock ECU setup you have. $$$ and time. There may be a 'race' harness available for the NC, but not likely (at least for a stock engine). You'd need to find someone willing to do the work. (such a pita....) Opt 3: remove your current harness and go through each circuit one-by-one and repair what you need, remove what you don't, re-install. Buy a good set of connector tools if you go this route, much easier to put a pin back in then it is to solder a wire back together and eliminates potential incorrect circuits/grounding issues (no cut ends to touch). You'll get a sense of accomplishment, crossed eyes and carpal tunnel syndrome.
  12. I'm running one of these - GT version Battery Isolator Switch | CARTEK Motorsport Electronics Pretty sweet setup. Easy to wire in, gives capability of multiple cutoff points (I have main in center console area, and one on each rear side window for easy corner worker access) and kills everything immediately.
  13. Good used 1.8L VVT Miata engine out of an '02. Located just north of Ann Arbor - pulled in good running condition w/ ~154k miles with no signs of issues and even compression. Get engine throttle body to exhaust manifold, exhaust, harness, ECU, maf, alternator, starter, Subframe, clutch/flywheel. $800 for all engine stuff above Titanium Gray RR bumper with 'tupperware', slight damage from saying hi to a guard rail near ToD... otherwise good shape - $60 Very good condition trunk lid - $120 underbody and FR strut tower brace - $40 each FR and RR stock sway bars - $40/$30 Pick-up in South Lyon, MI 48178 Its shop clean out time!, so give me a good offer to help me get some space back. PM me if interested.
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