Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


NigelStu last won the day on April 20

NigelStu had the most liked content!

Community Reputation


1 Follower

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Finished changing trailer brakes (one seized) Put required decals on finished up some new go fast stuff (hopefully!) loaded up all the stuff I don't want to touch once I get to Charlotte (spares, special tools, fluids, parts) checked alignment. rear is good, fronts I apparently totally botched at Gingerman test day (1/4" + toe-in ? who the F was reading that tape measure? fail.) trying to make some others cool decals, but company i got cutter from that uses web-based program does web maintenance between 1 and 2 am....
  2. Gotta wait until the sun goes down to aim the lights, so used the opportunity to get started on the new decals.... Bavarian Mustache Werks is finally back with some proper big arse mustaches on the car!
  3. Its the end on the right that snapped off, entire chunk to the right of the bearing journal. End up losing the cam wheel and one of the 2 cam lobes that that cylinder. Our car still ran as it was still using other signals to determine when to fire stuff, but poorly since that cylinder was pumping air through half the ports. But the car wouldn't re-start once it was shut off; ECU uses that sensor to help with starting. Easiest way to check is pull the cam sensor out and stick your finger in there, if you can't feel the end of the cam, well... there's a problem. We got really lucky that the piece fell off and wedged in place at the back of the head and didn't take anything else out with it. We swapped out the cams and went back to abusing the car.
  4. What is the failure mode? does it crank but not start/run? Back when I was racing a 350Z, we had the cam itself fail, the part that holds the degree wheel broke off. This was a common-ish failure with lots of high RPM running. Too much length after the last bearing, lobe/degree wheel puts enough stresses on the cam it snaps at the last cap. exhaust camshaft IIRC.
  5. With engine in and running, I got the prep for rest of the car done and then moved to some of the other important bits for the darkness of Charlotte. We are ready!
  6. I've been enjoying listening in to all the fun everyone is having out at Road America. looks/sounds like an excellent day for racing! Makes working in the garage with the cold rain outside much better! Happy to report that Ana is alive again! woot woot! Always nice to have a car fire right up. Now onto the actual prep list for Charlotte... mix of maintenance checks, new brake pads/rotors all around, alignment check and a few performance improvement things. New trailer brakes located and picked up too, I think I'll wait until it stops raining to swap those out.
  7. Thursday night, engine out. Friday morning - late start due to needing to move stuff around for the roofers (new roof going on Monday), discovered a brake had seized on my trailer - like completely, no spinning, adjuster not working, no releasing. chunk of time and destruction ensued to get it apart. Friday afternoon, swapped necessary parts and dropped engine back in. Hopefully today I can get the live broadcast working in the garage while I finish up the swap, put front end back together and get to the prep for next weekend.
  8. Started final prep for Charlotte last night. including oil change. Son of a.... Looks like I'm adding 'swap engine' to the to-do list! I blame @E. Tyler Pedersen - there wasn't enough glitter on his car out at Gingerman to transfer over onto my car, so my car decided to make its own glitter.
  9. Gotta get those passes when I can. Pretty sure my lb/hp ratio on the tow rig is about half of what yours is, or about the exact opposite of the on-track ratio situation (acceleration on your car is bonkers! at least once you got straight. My only hope was cornering speed with the far better/newer tires)
  10. I also did some testing - pics look oddly familiar to IPF and Crank Yankers...
  11. The picture of my old E30 is of an effective functional splitter and 10 pts. Stick a splitter on a normal 325i fascia without the lip and it would be a less effective splitter, but still functional. The picture of your car is a more effective functional splitter. An effectiveness that can only be achieved on an E30 by adding material. Heck, I can't think of a single vehicle on the VPI list that can achieve a proper functional splitter sitting ~2" off the ground without needing extra material of some sort to close out area between splitter and bottom of fascia/bumper. Something about how manufacturers designed these cars to be driven on the street, with some consideration for speed bumps, entrance ramps, parking curbs and needed ground clearance... The current points structure gives everyone a whole lotta potential with relatively very few points. Play with what you have and maximize the performance within the points you are willing to spend on aero. FWIW, during TAC discussion on the aero topic, I was pushing for more detail on individual components and a separation of 'simple' vs. 'complex' aero. In the end, it was recommended by the group 10 pts per potentially functional component (or pairs of components if they are 'sided' like side skirts). Rules are set as they are to keep the rules simple short and keep the creativity aspect wide open. I see the aero opportunities within 5 zones, 10 points per 'thing' that includes the assembly/mounting (so long as the mounting does not perform function of another listed component): Nose/Front - airdam / chin spoiler / dive planes (pair) Under the car forward of FR axle - splitter under the car between axles - aero tray / side skirts (pair) under the car behind RR axle - diffuser back-end/rear - Wing / spoiler
  12. Is that some special factory option M-tech front fascia in my pic? I always thought that was just the fascia that came on the 325Es models. Had I only know the value, I would have pulled that off and sold it - would have given me a $50 profit after I bought the car and sold that off! You could always go find a much cheaper regular old 325is front fascia with the factory avail lip and stick your splitter to that. As effective as a splitter hanging an ~inch lower? No, but certainly more effective than 'not useful at all'. Or you could always take the 10 pts. It seems to me that you feel (or via testing know) that your developed splitter height gives your car the best performance and is worth the time/effort/money to keep it at that height. I do have to disagree with you on the 'not useful at all' changes to my super fancy chart. While not as effective, a splitter at a higher height will still prevent some amount of air from going under the car, forcing it over or around (especially on a high-nose type car like a Miata) when compared to no splitter at all. And a splitter give some length of flat to give the air that does go under the car a good smoother start than a fascia with a gaping hole behind it. Some cars of course will have more effect than others.
  13. Hey now.... at least I'm honest when I talk about inches. And I spun because I unexpectedly found myself having to avoid one of those E36s without any aero.... I am also convinced that was less than 2"..... Just think, if E36s had aero back then, we likely never would have met that day and I wouldn't have a box for a cat shaming calendar sitting on my counter.
  14. I see some material between the splitter and fascia on that E30, couple of inches worth of airdam - so would interpret that as 20 pts for FR aero. This wold be a 10 pts version.
  • Create New...