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RandomTask last won the day on July 29

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  1. It would. It's weird though how little it is. I have to flog on the car for 30 min to lose a couple quarts. Even then, no coolant in oil and nothing coming out of tail pipe as much as I can tell.
  2. Found out the head gasket was leaking. F***! Everything ordered to fix. Hate doing this right before the race. . .
  3. 14005 Jet Performance Dynamic Spectrum Tuner Programmer – Jet Performance Products (jetchip.com)
  4. Correct, LT4. I've already had the secondary O2's deleted. ECU controls pump relay. Are you using the DST s/w? I told the guy not to tune but instead to find the coolant leak. I asked him what his rate was, and told him not to go over x hours w/o calling me. He then asked "How would you like me to find the leak?" I was tempted to say "with your mouth" but instead just said, I don't care, you're the mechanic, just find it." Also ordered the tuner and some injectors that have more headroom and most importantly, a spare ECU that I'll practice on. Want this car perfect for VIR next weekend!
  5. So what would you guys do. . . I took my car to a highly recommended shop about an hour south of me for tuning. I rec'd a quote for a dyno tuning session for $650. When we established the session, I told him the two things that need to be addressed; the lack of fuel and the timing. I also told him the car has a small coolant leak somewhere and to find it before the tuning session. He mentioned how he had tuned a bunch of these cars and wouldn't be a problem. Dropped the car off yesterday. When I showed up "Oh, my dyno is down, it's going to be a street tune." Dude. I then told him "well we need to renegotiate the price". . . he dropped it to $550 which I think is still way too high, ESPECIALLY considering when I was there he also mentioned he was unsure if he was able to change the duty cycle/fuel rate with the only SW that will tune these cars. . . He said he would research it and get back to me. . . He shot me a message last night saying the S/W doesn't allow it. . . The S/W + tuner he's using (Dynamic Spectrum Tuner) can be purchased for $350 and is the only thing that will work on this car ('96 vette). So I'm of the mind "I can data log myself and see if I'm hitting knock. . . AND I get to keep the tuner. . . " This guy has a good reputation and a lot of people speak highly of him. That said, I wouldn't imagine the tuning being that difficult. What say champ?
  6. While I haven't filed an official petition, the points are what kill these cars. For reference, a '91 Mustang GT with 225 hp @3100lbs is 225 points. . . same year vette with 245hp @ 3450lbs is 450 points. So you have 275 points to spend on the mustang and 50 to spend on the vette. . . because reasons.
  7. To answer your questions - Harness: Just cut the crap out you don't need from the harness. It's really not that difficult. You'll have to get the ECU tuned to have the stuff like the secondary O2's and the passkey stuff removed. I think the company I used for this was LT1PCMTuning or something of that sort; guys name was Simon. Fairly inexpensive (~$150). The '96 cars use OBII and it takes a special SW to tune it (HPTuners will NOT work). I think it's call Dynamic Spectrum Tuner. The PCM is finicky when getting programmed as in sometimes when you're tuning it will randomly brick itself. You can use the ECU out of a '97 Camaro as a backup. In '96 (and '97 camaro LT1/LT4) the cars came with a crank position sensor. This sensor does not control anything about timing/etc and is only used for diagnostic; it allows the PCM to determine exactly which cylinder has/had a misfire. Brakes: I've had nothing but good luck with the C5. IIRC The C6 Z51 calipers are simply slightly more rigid than the c5 setup so they don't taper the pad as much. Dealers choice. Pinto Dave: Don't listen to a word that man says. He sold me to a bunch of australian pigmies for a nickel one year and it took my 4 months to save up for airfare to get back. Dave is good people; he loaned me an opti one time after my third one crapped out on the track. . . Once you get a good opti, keep it forever. AC Compressor: The bearing is actually separated from the internals; it's a sealed bearing that rests on an outside lip. You'll remove the armature anyway (as well as the internals) so it's not a problem.
  8. . . . I have a team mate who can't stop referencing that thing . . That stated, I *think* the terminator X may work off the crank position sensor on the cars. The trigger wheel is only 4x so it's kinda low resolution. That stated, the *ideal* way of solving the opti is the torquehead 24x system which is only a couple hundred bucks; it uses LS coils. . . but again, it is yet more points.
  9. Fuel injection connection has a good video displaying what happens to the stock injectors passed 60psi;
  10. I agree that if you want to keep the car in his honor, then running that particular car may be the way to go. You're going to have to pull the drive line regardless since you said it's leaking everywhere. Some other random things: At least for us, the biggest issue is the damn optispark. Get a spare or two for every race. Do everything you can to make sure it's sealed up nice and tight. If they get any oil/dirt in them they take a dump and your car stops running. So many times on a back stretch of a track and having the car cut off b/c the opti took a dump. While stock fuel tank is good for now, going to a 22 gallon fuel cell will allow you to run full two hour stints. This will be spendy; $1300 for the fuel cell and expect up to $1000 more to buy the adapter that allows you to install. Take as much weight out as you can, cut the doors so pretty much it's only the outer skins and that little metal support bar. The cars are porky; 3450 lbs stock before adding a cage. Only thing I wouldn't recommend chopping up is the under of the hood. It makes it super flimsy to the point you'll need to have two people lift it otherwise it will snap in half. For the accessories, gut the AC compressor and use that instead of a pulley delete. Save you $200 and you won't get dinked on points.
  11. I'll try and find a middle road. Again, stock injectors won't open passed 70psi and around 65psi they start "missing" if you will on injections. The motor is plenty happy at 55psi, but once the vac reference moves the pressure up near the top RPM's, you get a slight miss.
  12. So you're saying the bump in compression shouldn't impact the AFR? To be honest, this is the first year I'm running AFR gauges so who knows where it was previously. Running stock intake setup. Running stock manifolds but no cats (obviously)
  13. Ehh, it's my own damn fault. I'd run a stock regulator if I could. The real reason my AFR went up is I opted for a thinner head gasket and it boosted my compression a bit.
  14. Yay! Another LT4! Tons of suggestions routes you could take. The main one I'd suggest; find someone that will trade you for their '90-'91 manual car + cash. You'll have a better starting point and you can throw the money towards the build. Mainly, you can't lose points and without doing an engine swap, you're going to be at 550points. More info below: Points: If you're serious about getting it under the 500points, you need to find an L98 from an '88-'91 Vette and do the complete swap (ECU/Harness/ETC); it will be the tuned port motor w/ Al heads. Declare it as a '91 and you'll be at 450 points. You can sell the LT4 in there for decent money; keep the harness intact and with the computer, it's worth about $1500-$2500 together depending on the market down there. The LT4 starts at 550 so you're hosed walking through the door. The motors are drag and drop in from a mechanical standpoint, just keep the block mount brackets to attach to the later model C4 K-Member. Cage: Find your tallest driver and build the cage around them. These cars suck getting in and out of with the stock roof line; getting the cage under the roof leaves very little room for "oh poop, I'm upside down and on fire". Transmission: You have what's called a "blue tag". It has a dual mass FW. FW is good for the street, garbage for the track. Try and find a used aftermarket steel FW. Any clutch kit you get, the FW must be for the L98 which I believe has a different balance than the '96 and the throwout bearing for the '96. The blue tags have a smaller diameter input shaft sleeve than the black tags; the TO bearings aren't interchangeable. Carolina Clutch is a good source for reasonably priced clutch kits for these cars. Get the stage 3. Don't do unsprung; harder on the driveline and not worth it. Engine: Again, the LT4 forces you to be a '96 and you walk in the door w/ 550points before you upgrade anything. You can switch to the L98 to enter as a '91 and start at 450points. My suggestion is you spend ALL these points on cooling/oiling, even if you're going further into the hole for the LT4. I know the rules are about to change next year WRT radiators; will have to check how it will impact, but Champion makes a very inexpensive 2 core AL radiator (<$200). Regardless of engine you chose, you're going to want to crack it open, check out the bearings, and do a basic refresh on the motor. At minimum you're going to want to ARP the rods, new bearings, and have the bores cleaned up. Get some ARP head bolts for if you inevitably have to change the heads. The L98s intake/exhaust is horribly limiting; they fall flat around 4500-5000 rpm. They make good torque, but no HP up top. This is actually a GOOD thing for survivability; early shifting. High RPM kills these motors, notably the rods. So it's imperative to keeping it well oiled and well cooled. With that in mind, do a aftermarket radiator and a accusump. One of the reasons the LT4 sucks is it uses the optispark. I have changed this damn things more times than I care to admit. The L98 uses a traditional distributor. Suspension: Obviously rebuild it with new bushings. All manual transmission C4 vettes came with a Dana 44 which is bulletproof for stock HP. More than likely a 3.45 rear ratio. Don't waste your time on cheap wheel bearings, they will only last a single race if that. Moog bearings are pricey but they have 3 year warranties. (Timken only have 1). On the front, you'll need to have someone cut/shave down the spherical washers the upper a-arms mount to get any sort of negative camber, especially once you start cutting weight out of the car. For springs, you'll have to look up the codes but get the absolute stiffest one up front and softest in the rear. Not so much a problem on the '96 but earlier years were horribly oversprung in the ass. Did this once at the track. Every braking zone was a game of chase your tail. Brakes: Upgrade to the C5 kit at minimum up front regardless of the year C4 you land on; stock C4 brakes can't take extended track abuse. I run carbotech X12's in the front with good luck. Stock brakes in back are sufficient and I run XP10's in the rear to prevent lockup. Other: Sell the gauge cluster. It's a one year only unit; the tach goes to 8k vs normal 7k due to the LT4 revving higher. Corvette owners fap over this. Worth about $400. Sell everything else you can in the car interior as well. It all has to come out anyway. Again, the '96 is a good car but honestly, I really think you'd be better off trading/selling it and getting a '90-'91. You can see with all the stuff you'll have to do, it's going to get really expensive really quickly.
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