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RandomTask last won the day on July 13 2018

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  1. Oil cooler relocated, radiator installed, hood co mlm completely installed. Why are we limited to 300kb files?
  2. Do you get free points if you head swap (valves and all) a rotary? . . .
  3. Any interest in trading a set of offset LCA bushings for the front license plate cover (in all it’s charred glory). . .LMK I also have a fiberglass (aftermarket) hood. Although getting here to Indiana would be a PITA. Some suggestions: - Z51’s are notoriously over-sprung in the rear, especially when you start stripping the car. Not as bad as the ‘84’s but every brake zone turns into a game of “chase your tail” I’ll check my shed as I’m pretty sure I have a couple extra soft rear springs. -Upgrade to the C5 brakes on the front. No question. Take the points; it’s more of a safety thing. You -will- cook the fronts on fast tracks. Adapter brackets for pre ’88 are super cheap or are super easy to make. (I have a DXF if you want). -When building the cage, you’ll realize it’s hard to weld to fiberglass. Speaking with the judges, the best (and strongest) point to mount the main hoop is on the frame on the top where it comes up behind the seats. You’ll see what I mean when you get there. -We use the (cheap) jegs 11” ZR1 Replica wheels (https://www.jegs.com/i/OE-Wheels/494/5910193/10002/-1). We run these square with 275 Falken Azenis. You’ll be pulling teeth trying to get negative camber; unless you go with custom upper control arms, the most we could muster is -1.5*. For this, a single set of tires can last an entire 24hr race. -Feverishly beat it into your teams head that it’s a SBC; winding the motor out does not make you faster but it DOES kill bearings. Short shift. 5k-5.5k rpm. -Motors are quiet on stock exhaust manifolds. You won’t need a muffler. -Get GOOD front wheel bearings; Timkens. If not, you’ll be replacing them every other race. -If you don’t go fuel cell, install one of those holley fuel mats. The baffling in the stock tank is horrid. You’ll find you start hitting fuel starve with 6 gallons still left in the tank. -It’s an ’86. Get antique tags and praise Dale
  4. To be fair, on the first one, the dummy would have been safely ejected through the windshield. . .
  5. VIR 24. I think the rules just hit us harder this year due to the nature of what we run. Things of note: Have to have fenders with flares. We didn’t run a hood (and needed on to add flares) and had trimmed our frame (large overhanging front end) to save weight. To get it back to rules, we needed to source a new front end and re-install it. This also entailed re-mounting the radiator, figuring out a new light setup, moving some other stuff around. No more funnel allowed on re-fueling. Our fuel cell is very hard to reach in the back and req’d a funnel. To be able to fill it w/o a funnel req’d about $600 in ATL remote fill stuff. To be fair, last year, they warned us that that following year we wouldn’t be able to use it any more. Fire bottle needed to be 2 year certified. Ours was about 4 years old; needed to bring up to code. Running fuel lines through cockpit. We had stainless braided hose that we ran through the passenger side. Now it needs to be further encased. Sure a couple of other things I’m probably missing.
  6. Or a C4 corvette. you have to take the exhaust off to get the starter out.. . and God speed to any team that runs a NorthStar.
  7. I guess the input I have (and may be this is a misinformed opinion) is to ask to be cautious about implementing too many rules at once. Kind of a double edged sword, but this was the biggest roadblock to us heading to VIR this year and from what it seems, attendance this year seemed to be significantly down. We looked at all the rules we had to catch up to and realized we simply didn’t have the time. Did anyone else view it this way?
  8. I'm voting HARD against this. It's waaaay easier and cheaper for me to get an aftermarket FW than a stock one. C4's used DM units that aren't made any more. This mandates I find used units that usually go for stupid money. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-1989-1996-Dmf-Dual-Mass-Flywheel/303246131761?hash=item469ae0c231:g:bx4AAOSwY~NdSbYn
  9. For $8, just ordered one and gonna make that work. This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks!
  10. At VIR, ON/OFF was a little annoying (distracting). You would get super hot, turn on the cool shirt, then 4 min later, be too cold and turn it off. That in mind, I’m looking to make an adjustable (voltage) coolshirt. I was thinking of running a pot that controlled a switch mode power supply. (I’m an ME, not an EE). Has anyone done this? How did it work out? Am I making a crappier version of something that I can readily buy? (Couldn’t find anything) Thanks!
  11. We can't see poop at VIR and we're at the limit of what the rules allow. We do notice a lot of teams have MUCH brighter setups than us; how heavily is this lumen limit rule enforced because I'm really wanting to add more oomph to our setup.
  12. Negative, but thanks! If you saw my work email address I think it would go straight into your trash can
  13. Do you work for parts badger?
  14. We've vented one lt1 after about 7 races. Biggest thing to save these motors is short shifting. Torque is lower and you'll be faster shifting <6k rpm; DON'T wind out the motor. We also have a Canton baffled pan on for good measure.
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