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Hi All. These calipers were sold some time ago. I honestly forgot about this ad. Cheers.

The feedback is perfect. The controller kit that I use has an adjustment knob to vary the amount of assist the unit provides and, thus, the feel improves as well. With my current setting, the car is consistently easy to drive (245 tires on a FWD platform). https://epowersteering.com/purchase/product/diy-kit-saturn-vue-chevy-equinox-units My only complaint with this kit is that the potentiometer that is provided is a much too large of a value. I reduced mine from 100k ohms to 10k ohms to narrow the assist adjustment range.

Ahh, I see. I wasn't thinking about it from the perspective of the actual pickup point locations. Bummer. Thanks!

No issues yet. The car is a relatively new build but it completed a double 7 without issue as well as half a dozen track days.

I installed an E-power steering drive from a Chevy Equinox. It's a compact unit that can be had from lots of junkyard for 30 or 40 bucks. An aftermarket controller can be had for another $100. In the end, driver fatigue over the course of long stints is notably reduced.

Due to the act of turning an otherwise functional street car into a race car, my tie rods are now pointing toward the tree tops. In an effort to avoid racking up 20 points for aftermarket tie-rod ends to fix the angle, I thought I might add a couple of bends to the tie rod itself. Opposing 6-degree bends should just about get me to where I need to be over a 10" span of the tie rod. Bad idea? Suitable adjustment? Thanks!

Yes. We didn't have the pad transfer with the RP2s, but definitely with the XP10/12.

For sale is a pair of completely remanufactured Raybestos FC RX7 4-pot front calipers. These calipers were intended for a project that never materialized and are otherwise new. $225 OBO Price includes shipping.

We got 10 hours out of RP2s after running XP10s and 12s for almost 20 hours on our MX3. However, we have since ditched Carbotech altogether in lieu of Porterfield ST43. With Carbotech pads, the car would have a severe shudder under braking due to pad transfer. Conversely, the braking with the ST43s is just as nice at the end of an event as it was at the beginning, plus, they last a solid 30 hours.

The number 8 Hong Norrth MX3 -T2 should be class C. Add: Hong Norrth - Grumpy Butt 163 1985 Toyoda Supra Class B

Of all the time on course, we got exactly one video. That said, here's our first session on Saturday taking the green flag in wet to drying conditions. We had hoped for a much better finish for the weekend, but rear brake pad issues kept us way out of the top. Regardless, we had a great weekend. Congrats to the winners and everyone else on the podium!

This is my cell shell in an MX3. Fully sealed and gasketted with the functionality of a hatch maintained.

Ahh, good call. I'll see if I can find contact info.

Great race this weekend! If anyone left an aluminum jack near the #10 pit stall, hit me up. I have it in my possession.

PATS is indeed heavily integrated. The key, instrument cluster, and ECU all have to match and be present for the car to run. If your Mustang is a V8, this will certainly solve your problems: https://www.ampefi.com/product/ms3pro-plug-and-play-1999-2004-v8-mustang-gt/