mender

Can't see your picture. What cords are needed and where are they available?

There's been a recent upswing in reported Covid-related deaths. Investigations into the cause have shown a common trend: Wife: Did I get fat during the quarantine? Husband: You were never really skinny.

We have a very similar fast left-right corner sequence at our local track and no track-out available unless your tires work well on grass...

Think it's called an early apex across a bumpy curb... the first video was a little cleaner but still had the slide which is slowing him down through there. Armchair quarterbacking says he should set up the proceeding corner a little differently. Take the left with a later apex so he can get completely over to the left track edge before starting the turn-in to the right, and try to go around that pointy part of the curb instead of over it. Should be able to get to full throttle a little sooner and not upset the car. Just my thoughts, my Fiero likes that kind of approach to a fast corner. Yes, never lift; drive it out.

And our southern border...

Thanks, Ed! Tempted just for the sound:

Sporting national flags from the front fenders and running over everything in its path?

A 600SEL? Edit: Found it, '96 S600. A coupe even. Oh, the Germanity! The one I went to look at tonight would have been a good candidate, not one of the better maintained specimens. Yup, I walked away from a V12.

Found it! Pros: 402 hp stock, 26.4 gallon fuel tank, luxo barge so lots of weight to come out, 54% front weight so not bad, big brakes, engine oil cooler, 172 mph ungoverned. Cons: auto only but has big cooler and tight converter, parts might not be the easiest to find, need big tires - oh, and need a weight exemption.

That'll work but won't be nice if it gets hit. Done right without bondo and such means that after an incident, the fender can be coaxed back into shape at the track. This picture is after a hard wall hit on the left front which moved everything over about 6" and both fenders and the hood got twisted. We took the parts off, put the boots to them, pulled the front back over and then bolted the car back together.

We are modern civilization! Things are pretty high tech up here. While I can't claim to be a rocket scientist, I worked for a local company that bought some of the Apollo tech. Wernher von Braun himself came up to check out the plant. Yeah, having a family slowed my racing down to a complete stop for about 12 years. Thank goodness my business is building cars so at least I was able to do other people's projects!

I always find that it's a lot easier to go slowly and think ahead. This is a good project to find out how metal likes to move. You'll have some "aha" moments as you go. Too bad you weren't closer, so much easier when you can see someone do it.

If you use a rubber mallet while rolling the front fender with the bat you might be able to get what you want. As you roll the fender, gently massage the upper seam to get the metal to move. Lots of light blows work best.

As mentioned several times, cutting isn't recommended, you'll end up with a lot more work than just moving the metal. The lower portion at the back of the fender is that part that you can put a bracket behind to move a couple inches out. As you work the fender, that part will move forward a bit but that's not a problem. The seam that you have labeled for bending out will likely end up being flatter; that will bulge the fender at the wheel well where you want it. The first part of this article might be helpful: https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/diy/how-to-roll-front-car-guards-for-tyre-clearance

Put the fenders back on before reworking so that they fit when you're done. Use the car as your jig and workbench. Standard metal working tools (hammers and dollies) along with some patience is the best method. Decide how much room you need and where for the tires under suspension compression before starting to beat on things. A big hammer will make big dents; a small hammer will give you a smoother final product. Work the steel slowly. Resist the temptation to move the metal too quickly. Two hours per side will give you a much better fender than five minutes with a 5 lb sledge. Try to move the metal without stretching it. Hitting it too hard stretches it and you'll be looking for another set of fenders. This thread shows what can be done with a roller. I welded a strip into mine to widen the fender after some hammer and dolly work. Depending on how much room you need, you may want to space the lower rear mounting point of the fender out. That will give you more options for getting the metal out to cover your tires, and it will also vent the wheelwells.