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Everything posted by mender

  1. If so, make sure you don't replace that easily cut stock rubber filler tube with an aftermarket filler tube like this: You'll have to put in a metal bulkhead to protect it even though it's much thicker and tougher than the OEM rubber filler hose. 'Cause OEM fuel related stuff that meets the absolute minimum standard and may not even do that much because of accountants that manage to substitute materials on the assembly line to save a few pennies per car is soooo much safer than fuel cells and related parts that were designed to survive in an actual racing environment.
  2. Where's the fuel cell? Looks like stock stuff to me ...
  3. The mighty 150 hp Blue Flame six? The pinnacle of the stovebolt six from 1929? Pushrods, nasty combustion chamber design, 4 main bearings, heavy (but forged) crank, barely managed to get out of the Stone Age by getting hydraulic lifters, bypass oil filter, bearing shells instead of babbit, etc. At the time though it was a reasonable competitor to the Ford flathead. I built my '54 Chev truck engine with a Blue Flame spec cam (just a 261 cam), porting, and a custom long runner 4 bbl intake. Dyno tested at 112 hp and 224 ft.lbs with the stock cam and 1 bbl intake, the cam and my intake bumped that up to 156 hp and 245 ft.lbs, plus in-truck testing showed my carb and intake increased fuel economy by 10%. Idles dead smooth at 450 rpm (can almost count the fan blades) and is all done by 4000 rpm.
  4. So, back to the topic. So far there appear to be at least two cars that have suffered stock strap failures for whatever reason: Ford Focus (strap anchor point) Honda Civic (unknown failure mode) Any others? Might be a good idea to see if these are isolated events or endemic of an issue that should be looked into.
  5. Thanks! Only thing I could find is that a strap failed, not the tank. Too bad there wasn't a follow-up to verify the failure mode.
  6. I've used a rag wrapped around an air nozzle to seal to the filler neck amd supply low pressure air to pop out the almost ubiquitous dent in the bottom of rear mounted fuel tanks in cars that have been bounced across a field. Certainly didn't get anywhere near 100 psi, would be surprised if it reached even 10 psi before the dent popped out. Even more certainly didn't come near having a tank strap fail.
  7. To paraphrase: cheapness is the mother of invention.
  8. Interesting how selective the acceptance of innovative and creative solutions within the letter of the rules is ... No ballooned tank has ever "split" or suffered a failure from what I've seen here, yet it was purportedly declaimed by all and sundry that it was radically unsafe and a threat to humanity. More like a threat to the status quo. Now we have apparently unsupported allegations that the same practice that normally results in a tighter fit of the tank to the body is somehow responsible for tanks coming loose and being dragged about on the track. Legitimate conclusion or just people adding fuel to the fire of their choosing?
  9. Hobbs switch has two terminals, no worries about grounding through the body.
  10. 1 kg = 2.2 lbs. 3 kg = 6.6 lbs 6 kg = 13.2 lbs 10 lbs = 4.55 kg. Just stop at your local Canadian Tire and get one of these: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/garrison-heavy-duty-6a80bc-fire-extinguisher-0460056p.html
  11. Near the tip of the nozzle is a small hole, and a small pipe leads back from the hole into the handle. Suction is applied to this pipe using a venturi. ... When gasoline in the tank rises high enough to block the hole, a mechanical linkage in the handle senses the change in suction and flips the nozzle off.
  12. Actually that would be horrible! Sacrilege! Heresy! Here's the deal: Road America in a big block Corvette. 'Nuff said.
  13. The point is that just about every tank out there has a listed volume but the actual amount varies according to the fill method: how much angle the car is at, how long you wait, how much you jostle the car, etc. Also, no mods are needed to the tank to exceed that capacity, just the vent lines as is allowed by the rules. I can get 22% more fuel in my wife's Smartcar after it clicks off the first time.
  14. And they all will regardless of the vent location. All that changes is the amount of air vs the amount of fuel but the total of the two is always the same.
  15. Sounds to me like there were other issues involved. Filled normally (until the vent tube is covered and air can't escape), the height of the vent tube should be immaterial but I don't have time at the moment to go through the scenario. Perhaps someone else? If there is indeed another cause, it should be figured out instead of making an assumption that may or may not prevent more occurrences. Volume change of gasoline is about 0.5% for every 5 degrees F, so 15 gallons would become 15.3 gallons when going from 70 F to 90F.
  16. Movable items (free!) to get a "performance result": 1. Battery to the rear and right 2. Driver to the rear and right 3. Engine/trans to the rear and right 4. Fuel cell wherever Moving a gas tank slightly will give much less "performance result", besides being a transient effect as the fuel load changes. Not to mention that raising a fuel tank has a negative effect on C of G, however small.
  17. I drilled and tapped the thermostat housing right beside the upper rad hose. Seems to work.
  18. On the engine side or the rad side of the thermostat? I installed mine on the rad side to read the pressure in the rad/cooling system, not the engine. No issues with false readings; once the temp is high enough to have positive pressure the light goes out and stays out.
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