Hanz and Franz

Do tell us the results of the three or four things I listed. What are we betting Ed?

The anti smoke additive is valve seals or piston rings, if you were closer I would supply an engine. Valve seals leak under idle vacuum, rings smoke under wide open throttle.

Where are you located? I have anti smoke additives for M30's. Seriously, get a good checklist, arrange tasks in order of medical necessity. You can complete 14 hr on one set of tire and brakes. Read and re read the rules about all safety items, make sure you can get through tech! Roughly the order should be brakes, rebuild all the calipers, if the brake fluid looks anything like tea replace the master/reservoir too. New stock rubber hoses ( get all six of them). There are cool (and necessary) bronze caliper mount bushings from Turner etc. Use Brembo or ATE rotors, Hawk HT10 pad. Next would be suspension/wheels. Service/inspect the front wheel bearings, you can get a seal off one side and look, if the red rust has started get new FAG bearing, if not push some fresh expensive grease into them. Replace all four front control arms (forget about coolers, spend money here). Not much to the rear other than make sure nothing is loose, and CV boots are intact. Next would be fluid systems, yes Redline gearbox and diff. Buy a pressure tester for the cooling system and use it. Crank sensor harness routing and lower radiator hose interference with water pump pulley should be carefully inspected. Improper radiator mounts and collapsed engine/trans mounts contribute to the hose issue. Replace the alternator mounting bushings! Watch the fan blade, bent or broken is bad for water pump life, and it is still readily available. Next would be, shifter and bracket bushings, throttle pedal bushings (real fun with a cage), throttle cable, should all be replaced. Maintaining soft stock style engine/trans mount and exhaust down pipe to transmission bracket will improve reliability. That horse is a winner with the right Indians riding.

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An M60 with two stage nitrous!? You are going to induce oil leaks..... of the hole in block kind! "I don't always use air injection, but when I do, I paint the plumbing" But other than that, the blue parts indicate all the places it will just leak oil normally. Don't forget to bleed the alternator!

A very early opening exhaust port!

Use the stock rod, because it is in the rules? How much did the original piston and rod combo weigh? I find that when a customer shows up with all the fancy rotating/reciprocating bits, the parts are usually heavier than the originals. What has been the failure mode you are experiencing, that is indicating a change in con rod design in the first place? And if the only real difference is the weight, why would you even consider the heavier rod? Just adding a bush to the end can not contribute "41g" to the weight. So is the real question "Is it worth 41g to be able to tell everyone I have full floating pins?" Absolutely, and it opens up the potential to cite cir clip reliability in your next engine failure!

So..... "Which one of you is coming in third?"

Who cares?! Cool shirts are for Turbogirlls!

Shite!, your sell'in my seat?! I promise, I'll bring a different girl this time!

In reference to #801 contact with RX8, I was driving the BMW. I know it doesn't look like much wheel movement on his part, but form behind it looked like this, "OK he's on the bottom yellow line @:47, no he's going high, less than a car width to the wall @:51, oh poop now he's back at he bottom @:55", You can almost see my self and the other two cars in the right side mirror weaving trying to decide which side. My sincere apologies for not "making it safe". A little situational awareness and use of mirrors on your part would have helped too.

This should make AIV with one of those wraps to make it look like a Neon, right?

Can you really get out of high school without the ability to calculate the area of non equilateral quadrilateral (and a radii or two)? I've now measured and I will be armed at tech the next time. Race Car Aerodynamics: Designing for speed, by Joseph Katz, read and believe. Just a little rake, keep it clean underneath, and most of the drag is from the rear of the car. Yes I am confident that the "glass" makes the car more stable though the tri-oval weaving between cars and standing on the brakes, and the kink too. Every little bit..... bcakes says we should have just cut the entire green house off and went back through tech.

The 30 or so minutes leading up to the red flag was some of the most difficult driving I've ever done. Visibilty near zero (driving and shifting with a squegee in my right hand). Hydroplaning into T17 with 180' lock on the wheel and no change in direction. Nearly being drawn into the front straight wall on drivers right. The river running across the track at T8 would displace the car the entire width of the track (start at the extreme right and it would float all the way to left curb). It was also the only time we were able to get a lap back on the Flat Out Racing Z car. Just waiting for the officials to cry uncle, because I was not going to. Thank you bam2002 for the kind observation of our performance. Thank you to everyone for good racing!

You mean the kind with the killer Porsche brakes and that fast Elsworth kid driving, hell no I would be proud!