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petawawarace

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Everything posted by petawawarace

  1. I was asking about the votes that each of the 51 members that responded to the petitions made. And yes it’s the yes/no to each petition that should be shared. I don’t believe that those were ever shared. I’ve looked through the power point and I can’t find any of it. There are stats on what the actual petitions were and how many were about which subject but nothing on the feedback from members. If I am wrong, please point me in the right direction.
  2. You’ve really turned sour with this whole deal eh Chris? That’s unfortunate. Why is the BOD taking a stance that they don’t want to reveal how the membership voted? 51 members provided feedback and comments. If 49 of them wanted something done about tires (as an example) and the the BoD decided they didn’t, there’s a huge problem there. These are the sort of documents that Champcar is legally required to provide when asked by a member of the organization, but your not doing that. I’m curious as to why that is?
  3. This is great start, thanks. Any word on when or if the results of the members feedback on petitions will be released? I would think that’s readily available as it should have been tallied and presented to the BOD before they voted right?
  4. Those of you running abs, are you able to use 2 proportioning valves for each rear brake line to adjust balance?
  5. Yeah the flat spotting rears is a very real concern. We had some rear bearing issues and I converted to front bearings in the back. Tried without abs and it has locking up the rear inside tire at one corner and picked up some significant flatspots. Fixed that and the abs does prevent it. The Ice node does concern me. Under really heavy braking it does kick in and affects the braking ability. It does recover very quickly, but you do lose some braking space. I have increased the front compression dampning and this helps quite a bit. So I believe that I could keep the ABS, but get rid of the power brakes and go to an aftermarket pedal assembly. Any opinions on getting rid of the power brakes?
  6. I’m on the fence about this and thought some opinions (especially with FWD experience) may help. Our car has power brakes, abs and electric power steering. The wiring on the car is pretty terrible and complicated. There’s and ECU, ABS module and a BCM all communicating via Can-bus. I really want to simplify things to avoid issues and clean up the engine bay. I can easily get/make a standalone harness for the engine that would greatly reduce the mess. I can also convert the power steering to a standalone setup very easily. I can’t do that with ABS. I would also like to get rid of some weight. The brake booster, abs pump, factory pedal assembly etc is all very heavy. Ideally I would convert to a set of hanging pedals with a good balance bar and get rid of the booster and abs. But I’m concerned that our braking may be hurt. How do you guys find manual brakes? Hard on the leg after 2hrs? Other than in the rain, is there much advantage to a street based ABS? Ours works pretty well and is fairly modern (2007) but I feel we could get by fine without it? Thoughts?
  7. So doing some more parts research and I think I’m going to put the bigger Brembo brakes on the front. I’d like to go with a floating rotor. I can make the hats so no cost there. I’m having a hard time finding rotor rings that will work with these calipers. The factory rotors are 12.4” dia and 1” thick. I can get lots of different affordable rings in 0.81” or 1.25” but none in 1”. The 1.25” ones are too thick. I could maybe get 1.15” but that’d be tight. Thoughts on the 0.81”? I’m a bit worried I would over extend the pistons, so I was thinking I could make some Ti spacers for the pistons that would prevent them from over travelling.
  8. There are 2 types of 2 piece rotors. Fixed and floating. Fixed generally just offer a weight savings. Floating have a few more benefits. The biggest one is eliminated stresses in the rotor which can cause warping. The steel rotor and aluminum hat expand at different rates and can cause the runout to be less than perfect. The floating mechanism allows them to be separate and the rotor will spin perfectly true.
  9. The cost of the hats/bobbins would be a 1 time cost. I own a machine shop, so I’ll make my own hats (plus no one makes them). So it’s just the rotors and bobbins I will buy.
  10. I do know what floating rotors are.
  11. When we replaced the engine Saturday night, the strut was not installed the exact same way and we had an extra 1/2 degree of camber. But we still do wear the inside slightly more with the camber set correctly.
  12. That’s only 10hrs on a new RS4. Lol. FWD 2500lb car and that was the LF at…….Calabogie. We did 4hrs at Tremblant and you could still read the Hankook impression on the middle bar. Hoping for much less wear at Mosport.
  13. The vent line doesnt make much/any difference unless you dumping a 5 gallon can in 7 seconds. We can dump a 5 gallon can in 25s with a 3/8” vent line.
  14. I’ve got a 13 Gallon tank. I support this rule. It seems to me that the ones that don’t support it were pushing the limits. I can 100% see your point though. If you are low on fuel, this hurts. If your not, it’s not a big deal. But with this consistency in fuel capacity, in theory we should be able to alter VPIs methodically going forward. You couldn’t do that with the various sizes of factory tanks (ballooned etc) and huge filler necks. Hopefully that’s what happens going forward.
  15. Picked up some old parts to test fit. They bolt right up. Only thing I’d need to add is a 1/16” shim behind the rotor to space it out center of the caliper. Or I could mill that off the ears on the caliper. The stock rotors are just over 1” thick. If I wanted to go to floating rotors (cheaper ones) I’d almost need to go to 1.21”or 0.81” thick. Not sure if I would have pad space for that or not. Brand new Brembo calipers are only $190usd too.
  16. I just built my first Champcar but I found one of the most expensive part aside from the consumables is the replacement of OE parts. I had a decent car to begin with but felt we should replace most parts with new and keep the old ones as spares. This meant a motor,trans, axles, control arms, struts, brakes, alternator, ps motor, tie rods, coils, injectors, belts, wheel bearings, etc etc etc. Stuff adds up.
  17. Any update on publishing the votes from the petitions? I understand there was work to get the BCCR out and the VPIs are coming, but it shouldn't take very long to get these results made public right?
  18. The best way (most realistic) to do this would be to have a deep freezer in your trailer lined with a metal container of some sort. You would fill it with fuel and cool it down. Most household freezers can reach -20C pretty easily. If you put this fuel into jugs at the moment your car came into the pits, the fuel might be at say -15C(5f) or so. If you put 15Gal of it into your car, and started racing, that fuel would expand by 1.41Gal by the time it hit 40C(104f). But that would be in a perfect world. The fuel won't heat up instantly to 40C, so you'll burn some of the cold fuel which will reduce the benefit some. This may also play havoc with your AFR ratios. It may end up being an advantage of a gallon or so vs storing your fuel in the 40C ambient air temp.
  19. I really would like to help you understand why your theory is wrong. Can you explain exactly how your tank is going to hold more fuel when it’s cold out. Include the theoretical air temps, fuel temps, time between operations, containers of fuel being used etc. Be super specific. I really think your missing something in your understanding of this and if we figure that out, a lightbulb will go off and you’ll get it. Genuinely trying to help.
  20. Now your changing physical states of the material? WTF?? Dude, You’ve got like 6 or 7 of us telling you that your wrong with this and you just keep digging your head in the sand. I agree that it’s impressive how committed you are. Sad, but impressive.
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