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enginerd last won the day on January 7

enginerd had the most liked content!

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    Forest Park, IL
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  1. So your big main 'starter cable' goes battery to alternator to starter and isn't interrupted by the kill switch?
  2. I have read this argument from many sources, yet I use a 4 pole kill switch which should have this problem but have never fried an alternator... running since 2014.
  3. Gray areas are bad. You can eliminate gray areas without adding pages devoted to defining and restricting ‘brake caliper’ and the like. It’s not one or the other. Gray areas and a lack of “balls” by tech are what lead to a manual transmission MR2 claiming an ‘automatic transmission discount’ and other such atrocities.
  4. I didn’t consider the placement you have when I responded. My battery (and most others that I have seen) is not located in the engine bay. Mine is in the driver compartment protected from collision within the roll cage. I don’t think it’s good practice in general to have batteries in an area where a wreck would compromise it.
  5. Well, killing the ignition will kill the engine which stops the alternator which ‘kills power’ regardless of how the alternator is connected... I think the rule should be “completely disconnect the positive battery terminal from everything but the wire going to the kill switch.”
  6. But what if you don’t flip the kill switch? That’s a long wire going forward to the engine which is carrying a lot of amps. A short from pinching or rubbing could be bad news. The diagram points to the hot wire from battery with a label “keep this wire as short as possible”. Lets say you wreck the car and the engine shifts and cuts that alternator wire. Doesn’t matter if you turn off the kill switch because you still have a wire from positive into the engine which has now been cut and wasn’t disconnected by your kill switch.
  7. Nothing changed in the weights table either?? I am skeptical of anything you say after you defended for months that “no rules changed” and ‘nothing shady was being done’ a couple years ago when the e30 swap weight got an unannounced weight reduction in the ‘swap weight table’.
  8. That isn’t what says. Where is this information from? The rulebook mentions “open space” between bars when measured at centerline. I read this as “take a sphere w/ 6” diameter and pass it between the bars as a go gauge”. The spacing between the fore and aft terminal ends of all door bars (including X-design) must include a separation of no less than six inches of open space when measured at the centerline of each bar. Triangulated bars that meet or join at the front hoop are allowed so long as the spacing of the upper and lower bars (attached to the main hoop) is
  9. Didn’t see the sill bar. I think that would probably pass.
  10. Per the rules, door bars, at the point where they weld to the main hoop and A-pillar, need to be not less than 6” apart. I will not make a guess as to why this is a rule. Perhaps adding a third bar at least 6” higher than the top bar would satisfy tech because then there would be the minimum of 2 bars with the separation (and then a third [not required] bar just on there as well)???
  11. Yes. Gray ones on the left are ‘S bend’. I can’t see the other image well.
  12. Keep in mind, the best products for this are sold by Victoria’s Secret, not your typical Jegs / summit items.
  13. Bad idea. I think the shape of the rod is actually irrelevant, only the locations in 3D space of the mounting/pivot points?
  14. Well, it is highly unlikely for you to place well enough in your first event to draw scrutiny. I suggest that for now you use whatever transmission you have that fits and use that. Come out and race, have a blast, learn about the series, look at the other cars and draw as much info from them as you can. As you are doing more work on the car prepping for your second race you can get your hands on the correct trans and install that. Also, perhaps I'm wrong and that exemption is upheld.
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