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turbogrill last won the day on September 12 2020

turbogrill had the most liked content!

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    Austin, TX
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  1. This is how WRL has it: "MASTER SWITCH: Switch location is open if it can be easily located and deactivated by the driver, crew member, or safety worker. The switch must isolate the battery from all circuits and must interrupt the ignition circuit. Positive terminals of the battery and switch must be insulated. A “Master Switch” decal with the universal “lightning bolt” and the word “OFF” must be displayed on the exterior as near the switch as possible" This is NASA (SM and such): "An electrical master switch is required. It should be mounted so that it is easily accessible
  2. I guess the intention with the Kill switch might not be clear, is it: - to it to make sure the engine+fuel pump+alterntor is killed? - or is it to completely isolate the battery? I guess if this could be clarified and explained then it would be best.
  3. At least you can pick. Either you spend money or time. Either you pay $400 for an oil pan or you spend a weekend in the garage building one. I think the problem has been when it would have been cheaper long term to just allow certain aftermarket reliability mods since the factory solution is not suitable for racing or has a serious defect. Along with kill switches and buying fuel for points this topic has been discussed 1000000 times. I am out
  4. I think the most important thing with a kill switch is to make sure that the engine + fuel pump is off. And the quality of the installation. If there is a small current flowing from the alternator for half a second to the battery I don't think that matters. I don't think that is even enough energy to create a spark. But you will have longer wires? The wire from battery to starter is probably the only unfused wire in the car (if you are anal about safety), instead of having that wire being 1 ft it's much longer and would be of bigger risk of getting cut and cre
  5. Interesting! Mine is in the OEM location, assuming they put it in a safe place.
  6. What hotspots are you using? The ones I have don't have external antenna
  7. What about engine swapping these cars, it seems like with 20 gallons and many points you could build something fast?
  8. Are you assuming the alternator is in the front of the engine and the battery, kill switch is in the back? Then yes, having an extra wire from alternator all the way back to the battery doesn't make sense. Sounds like a waste of weight, amps and safety. My alternator wire is 1 ft, it's actually shorter going to the battery than the selonoid.
  9. Wouldn't the electrical field in the alternator die when you flip the ignition switch? So there is only a little bit of energy stored in the alternator, same amount that goes thru the resistor.
  10. We use a selenoid but have the alternator directly to the battery.
  11. 1. According to some everything except safety should be points, so you add an oil cooler that should be points. Period. However there are 1000000 exceptions to this rule. 2. According to some reliability and performance is the same thing. Both is needed to win a race and both cost money. The counter argument is that it's cheaper to buy 1 oil cooler than a new engine for each race, cheaper to buy 1 set of hubs then replace before each race etc etc... 3. According to some it's to give people with building skills some credit. If you can repurpose y
  12. Interesting! How many points do you have? The mazda3 2.5 mzr is also rated at 165hp. With header the 2.5 outperforms the 2.0 with header. But you should really get a header, wakes them up. If you can do cam+header the 2.5 becomes 200whp
  13. It's becoming more popular here as well, new cams popup all the time. I guess it's because you can actually make a new miata resonable fast without messing with turbos. Thinking about doing a cam swap in our NC, just seems like a pain in the ass (I would drop the motor).
  14. I did see the 0.040" being mentioned, figured that was a typo I am also curious to the lack of cams, even for the NA/NB Miatas there are not a lot. If you take the datsun L engine there are so tons and you can even get a custom grind for cheap. I guess same with LS/SBC Is it because cams on miata doesn't do much? But cams on a datsun can double the horse power...
  15. The blue line is the correct camshaft, red is an experiment (from a different mazda). It's interesting why the red is not making more power. Mild aftermarket cams on that exact motor makes very nice gains. But they have more lift and slightly more duration as well.
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