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  1. Just to clarify, you ran a first gen gsl-se recently and were told it is valued as a second gen at 275? If so that a seriously outrageous call. My build is in the finishing stages but it won't be until 2020 before I make a race unfortunately. But I'd really like to show up to tech with some idea of what current precedence is. I sent an email to tech explaining the issue and seeking clarification back when this thread was started but I received no answer.
  2. So I have a dash bar but it's not attached to the firewall. Obviously, connecting everything with the cage would be the best, but I am having to scale back on the scope of the lesser project items to get this thing done. Truth. But I finally broke down and put in real honest to goodness camber plates.
  3. OK let me ask another question too: Using heim joint rod ends for the brace? I have read online that it "defeats the purpose" because that allows articulation and so doesn't work as a brace... seems like there is some logic but also a lot of the off the shelf braces use them so not sure what to think.
  4. Just wondering anyone's experience / thoughts on strut tower braces and where they attach. I will be fabbing up a custom brace that will triangulate from the strut towers to the fire wall. I've seen them done many different ways but the main question I have is: How much does it matter if it attaches to the walls of the strut towers in the engine bay vs. having a large bracket that bolts onto the top of the strut tower using the strut mount bolts? My thoughts are that I can imagine using the strut mount bolts would more directly transfer the suspension forces to the brace making it more effective, but if the goal is to reduce chassis flex I would think bracing the actual strut towers would do the same job, and be much easier to put together. Thoughts? I may be overthinking things as usual...
  5. Gotcha. I would be using a measuring tape, cardboard template, an angle grinder and a 4 lb sledge. I'm sure my results would look just as good<sarcasm>
  6. Hey, looks good. I was thinking of mounting a wing in the same way on my rx7. Is that the Nine Lives Racing wing? Also, how did you make your uprights? Just bend a peice of aluminum? It looks pretty thick... maybe not such a simple DIY job?
  7. Interesting. But, since my car is a gsl-se I'm keeping the stock rear brakes with the second gen fronts.
  8. I'll just cop to it right now. I removed the entire brake master and booster unit and undid all the lines attached. When I did this I shoved paper towel chunks in all the fittings to stop fluid from dripping everywhere. So yes, at this point I'm thinking there is a 99.99% chance I may have reassembled with some paper towel in the system.
  9. Oh interesting. I really am not a pro with hydraulics so its all a bit black magic to me, but if I understand what you are saying it looks like the FL caliper comes directly out of the master (which bleeds fine), while the FR (non-responsive) goes through a proportioning valve that splits to the rear? So, how might I unstick this valve?
  10. So they are both fresh remans. Although I hear plenty of stories about the bad remanufactured stuff. I suppose you are both right. Take the hose off the caliper and try to get fluid out, and if not, work my way back. Pedal feel is very firm.
  11. I've done a bunch of searches and it seems like the answer is always "air in the lines" but maybe someone here has some more practical advise? The car is a first gen rx7 that I have put second gen front 4 piston calipers on. I hooked up the whole system and using a vacuum bleeder bled rear pas side, then rear driver, then I go to bleed front pas side and nothing is coming through? So I go to the driver side, and bleed that caliper and it works fine. But the front passenger side just won't pull any fluid through??? And believe me I sat there for awhile pumping away at the vacuum bleeder. Any thoughts? How would you proceed? Honestly, I am just running out of time with all the stupid crap that keeps popping up so it could be worth it to me at this point to lets say, buy a new master for 50 bucks, if that's going to solve it. So tired of chasing things...
  12. Not from personal experience, but in my internet forum browsing I came across a case concerning rx7's. There is company that sells coilovers that have all delrin bushings. One day on track the welds holding the bottom mounts ripped off both rear shocks. I'm not saying this will happen, but I think it's a pretty good rule of thumb that basically all suspension systems need at least some room for deflection. If a force is going through any particular piece, and that force is enough to deform a hard poly bushing, that force doesn't go away if you eliminate the bushing deflection... it just acts on another part of the system. Just my 2 cents. I actually went back to mushy rubber bushings on parts of my suspension after putting in poly bushings and having bad results.
  13. Bingo, this is my exact scenario with an LC-2. My MS sensor grounds go to the engine block though. So maybe ground the LC-2 the block as well, just not in the wiring loom with the other sensor grounds.
  14. Ah yes, that's right. The megasquirt instructions say to ground the O2 sensor through the ECU sensor grounds, which I did. But the O2 sensor instructions say it should have it's own circuit. I think I'm going to move the wideband sensor ground to go directly to the battery then and see if that changes anything.
  15. Trying to get my car running on it's new Megasquirt. I have gotten it to start but not really run well. I looked at the sensor logs and the wideband O2 sensor seems to be getting jerky readings. So I read in the manual and it says the wideband sensor should be on it's own circuit to avoid not only sending out noise but also noise from ign coils etc. OK that's fine... but at the end of the day what constitutes a separate circuit? What I mean is, if power flows Alternator/Battery > Kill Switch > Relay > Fuse Block > Whatever the powered item is > Ground is it just a matter where it grounds? or else how far back in the chain does it have to be in order to be separate? Does this question make sense. It just seems to me, ultimately all the circuits are not too many degrees of separation from each other? I made this bad illustration as to how it is wired up now.
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