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Alex3000

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  1. Alex3000

    rx-7 GSL-SE removed from VPI list?

    Blarg. Well I guess I asked for this. 1. All 13b engines are not the same. It just means it's a 1.3L rotary. And especially the 84-85 13b, has many differences from the second gen motors. I won't go through them all 2. 12a cars came with 4 wheel disc and LSDs. Slight variations over the years but more or less the same. And while, yes the GSL-SE came with slightly bigger brakes, since brakes are more or less free now it's a moot point since everyone upgrades to turbo II brakes anyway. 3. The new swap calculator uses HP to calculate points: 12a = 100hp 84-85 13b = 135hp. = 50pt "swap" a later 13b would use the specific variants HP to calculate. 4. If we want to get really picky the GSL-SE is MUCH heavier that the 12a models. Like 250lbs heavier. 5. I am not doing a "forum build". I have raced this car for years and am trying to rebuild it to something more reliable and at least on the general pace. I bought this car when I was 19 for 250 bucks. It is not an option to just "put a different motor in" or "build a different car". I spend countless hours in the cold on my back cursing just to get this thing together.
  2. Alex3000

    rx-7 GSL-SE removed from VPI list?

    Well the thing is it seems the first gen has gone down in points to 100. Not sure what is was before but I feel like it was maybe 200? Regardless if you take a first gen at 100 points and plug it into the swap calculator and "swap in" the gsl-se 13b (100hp to 135hp) you get to 150 pts. This is what I plan to suggest. The GSL-SE 13b (135 hp) is different to the second gen 13b (160hp) in quite a few ways that compromise it. To put it in BMW terms It's like saying the e30 2.5L is the same as a e46 2.5L.... but now I'm doing the thing I said I wouldn't!
  3. Alex3000

    rx-7 GSL-SE removed from VPI list?

    Hmm, I will just email tech then since I promised myself I would never be "that guy" and start litigating points values on the forum.
  4. So, I thought I would scan the new rules just to see where I'm at after all the changes. I went to the new VPI lookup and was surprised my car is no longer technically listed? My car is a 1984 Mazda rx-7 GSL-SE, which technically has a 13b but the new list only has: rx-7 (12a) 1980-1985: 100pts rx-7 (13b) 1985-1988: 275pts Now, I assume when it says (12a) 80-85 the meaning is "first generation" even though there were two years the first gen came with a 13b (albeit not a great one) and the (13b) 85-88 for 275pts means "second generation s4" Anyone who runs an rx-7 have any clarification on this?
  5. Alex3000

    Megasquirt help: I'm sooo close

    I did not see it, thanks. Yeah my current tune is a hodge podge of stuff found on the internet. I have a feeling it's insanely rich. I'm actually signing a lease on my own dedicated build garage tomorrow so it's going to be a few weeks before I can really get working on the car again...
  6. Alex3000

    Megasquirt help: I'm sooo close

    Will do, and thanks. I like the idea of an s2000 swapped miata!
  7. Ha, glad I can serve as a warning for all. I chose the MS2 for budget reasons. My build-your-own MS2 kit I think was like $300, and a ready-to-go MS3Pro is like $1,200. This is my first megasquirt project so I have no basis for any comparison, but as mentioned above, I was a little surprised with the issues I am having with Tach signal. The manual will give you a big operating range for the sensor gap but I found the actual spec is "uncomfortable close". That being said, it's not all doom and gloom with the MS2! But, yeah, it seems to require much more work to get right.
  8. Alex3000

    Megasquirt help: I'm sooo close

    Yes, I have had to do the same thing before as well. I put new plugs in though to eliminate this potential issue. There are several X factors I am going to have to work through once I can get back in the garage again... Including the gas being like 18 months old.
  9. Alex3000

    Megasquirt help: I'm sooo close

    Thanks for the suggestions: It turns out it was indeed a trigger syncing issue. I reduced the gap between the sensor and wheel to .5mm, which seems pretty scary but it took care of my sync loss. Now, it started-ish like crap but it is technically "running". At least now I can start looking at dialing things in.
  10. Alex3000

    Megasquirt help: I'm sooo close

    Funny, I did literally the same thing, and got it running as well.... albeit with the headers glowing red. Pull start is not an option really because the car is almost entirely disassembled, suspension and body work wise. Currently I am hooking the battery to a Toyota Highlander with jumper cables so I can endlessly crank the starter. I think one of my other issue is that the data logs really confuse me. I just don't know how to interpret any of it in order to trouble shoot. Fixed timing I think would be a good idea though, just another variable to keep constant.
  11. It's been a long journey in my rebuild but I am finally attempting to start the old rx7 with my new megasquirt setup. I'll try to keep this brief: I spent last weekend in the garage trying to get the car to start. When I turn it over it JUST barely won't catch. If I hold the starter down for longer than I would like, it starts to sputter a bit like it's about to start but ultimately does not. A decent bit of exhaust puffs out the exhaust when this happens. - I sprayed starting fluid in the intake. This made it sputter a bit harder, but still act the same. To me, this means it's not a simple fuel issue, or else ether would start it. - Unscientifically, I started decreasing and increasing the cranking advance to see effects. With 0 crank advance it seemed to sputter harder, but still no start. - When I hold the throttle open, it seems to also help it sputter harder. (not sure what this tells me exactly) - I checked the Leading plugs to make sure they are actually sparking and they are... so this means I'm getting spark at least. My working hypothesis is that my timing is off. Potentially significantly. The first question for anyone with knowledge is about my trigger wheel and hall sensor. It is a 60-2 wheel with the sensor at the bottom. In this picture the motor is at the first timing mark which is 5 deg ATDC. My understanding is that when setting up the trigger wheel in TunerStudio I need to input the degrees after the -2 teeth which corresponds to TDC. So in my case: There are 2 gaps before the wheel gets back to the missing teeth which means 58 gaps after TDC. 360 degrees/ 60 teeth = 6 degrees/tooth. 58 x 6 = 348 degrees. Subtract 5 degrees because my reference mark is 5 deg ATDC = 343 degrees. The thing is: During my time in the car I kept adjusting this number up and down to see if that would help it start. It seemed to try and catch better when I set it a little farther down, around 324 degrees. That's about it.... I tried fixing the timing to 10 degrees advance and generally went up and down with the numbers. Sometimes it seemed a little closer and sometimes not. This leads me to believe I may be very off in my settings.... Any suggestions would be crazy appreciated. I spent a whole day just blindly adjusting things and it got me nowhere so I'm open to suggestions. I am posting my MSQ file (ms2 v3.0 using msextra firmware), if anyone is specifically an rx7 person and a megasquirt person **COUGH COUGH @mhr650 *** Maybe I have something totally off-base? Thanks in advance! CurrentTune.msq
  12. Yeah looking at MHR's engine bay pics is straight 13b pornography.
  13. This is the main reason right here. I ponied up to buy the racing beat pre-silencer with the rationale that since it's made for the job it will survive right behind the header. So, while I reaaaaally like the idea of flames on decel ultimately I just want my exhaust to last since it is mainly just a daisy chain of mufflers welded together. Ugh, I can't even imagine how frustrating that must have been. I have been waffling as to whether or not I feel like cutting a vent in my hood. This may have sealed it for me though. Any way to get heat out of there. Nice mounting BTW. I also have a GM sensor but it spins the wrong direction so I have to mount it on the throttle cable side, which is crazy annoying. Also the drive type is just those two little triangle nubs, which is also crazy annoying. This is why I bought the ford one, because it is a slot type and more or less fits in the end of the stock rx-7 throttle shaft. I just can't keep fabbing up random bric-a-brac every single time I need to do anything. I work in a single garage with no bench space, no room, no place to sit... I'm not complaining but from a simple time standpoint it's just not efficient to sit cross-legged on a carpet remnant trying to dremel out some sort of adapter all day. Sigh.
  14. Thanks for posting the pics. Interesting that the tps has just the two tabs and the shaft drive is flat spade type. guess I'll just suck it up and cobble something together with the tps I have.
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