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Black Magic

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Black Magic last won the day on July 5

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  1. Black Magic

    ABS Stand Alone Points Value

    We (TAC) don't comment privately on how topics are going, but i can tell you every one of those has been on the list we are working on now. Some things just take time to fix "right", and so some may have a step by step move that gets things right in time. Well, except the blatant 3.0 vs 3.5 and socks. Given the magnitude of the others, the sock thing hasn't come up yet (give it time).
  2. Black Magic

    ABS Stand Alone Points Value

    As of now... I would not count it as free and open. I think if you ran your own controller on the stock hardware you would have a good case, but this is a full hardware swap (pump and iso\dump manifold swap). In the future...well we are working on what is considered open in the braking system. I will ask about this for 2019 rules. In the mean time if you want to make sure you don't carry points run the e36 stuff. Some older abs systems actually aren't that bad.
  3. I have burned engine bay up in a few cars from oil fires. It isn't volatile like gasoline, so the flames don't grow nearly as fast, however it burns longer and will catch other stuff on fire. Each time it required a fire extinguisher to stop.
  4. I live on the north side of clt and campaign a neon. Another team up here i am close with does Mercedes (230slk) and lexus sc400 (but in another series). Let me know if interested. Drew
  5. Black Magic

    "new" fueling rules

    Sponsorship from Gillette or dollar shave club....?
  6. Black Magic

    Tire Wear Questions

    That is a pretty classic example of "chunking" (where the beaver attacked your tire). You are outside of the temp\loading limits of that tire. In English that means too much work was being done at that location. Sliding too much, low air pressure (flexes the tire and make different contact patch shape), toe and uncontrolled compliance in suspension (joints) can all lead to this. Make sure no bushings or bearings are bad in your suspension. Check out our youtube tech series for more instructions. https://champcar.org/mainweb/shop-talk-series/race-tech-with-drew-nabb/ Then increase inflation pressure if you need to prevent the chunking. This will hurt your grip, so changing your slippage when driving is a better option for teams with discipline. Once your tires survive you can work on setup for performance.
  7. Black Magic

    Tire Wear Questions

    Check for worn out wheel bearing, ball joints or tie rods. As previously mentioned, bushings as well. Straight up toe and 3 deg neg camber is not an unusual setup. Your in the ballpark.
  8. Black Magic

    Fender flares

    We pulled at least 2". It pulled the fender out at the hood (like your example) because that spot was softest initial rate. Hood still sealed so who cares. We cut new holes\opened up fender mount holes from chassis to fender. You will need to do this in spots, so you don't have to thin the metal as much (just reshape, not strech). For example at the bottom fender mount cut holes to pull bottom out 1", then your roller just needs to reshape (not stretch) the metal out up top.
  9. Black Magic

    Fender flares

    The eastwood rollers that bolt to the hub also work great. Stretch about 1/8 ridge in metal and work it outward (roll back and forth as you turn knob to advance ridge outside). Repeat till you get enough. Fender on the slk was almost flat as oem.
  10. My "partner" neon team is out of Muncie, IN. I can connect you with them if you are interested.
  11. Black Magic

    More brake cooling questions...

    Rob can it be 11.75 and you use a different caliper bracket to move it out? There is a world of cheap 11.75 x 1.25 rotors out there, look at speedway motors. they are 30 to $50 a rotor..... You guys forget how good and cheap some circle track stuff is.....
  12. Black Magic

    More brake cooling questions...

    Look over the 2018 bccr, no mention on how you do it, but look at 4.1.2. It mentions the things that add up to your value, all of the wording involves stuff you have added to the car from a part and material standpoint, not reusing the existing parts. In practice we have said that using a part to recreate a fixed value item is points add. For example you can't make a header and claim you built it from rolled up inner door skins. Going forward i don't know what the interpretation will be about making a fixed value part using no material will be, but brakes aren't a fixed vpi item anyway (they are 2x). The 2018 bccr does not have the hand tool requirement. It searched for the word "tool" and that isn't even in the doc once.....
  13. Black Magic

    More brake cooling questions...

    Don't discredit how many cars might have wide rotors stock you can use. Mine will come from 2004 wrx sti rotors (1.25" thick) turned down on the od to fit. I bet lots of trucks and heavy stuff would come in common rotor sizes. Adapt and redrill to your car. 11.75 fits well, 12.25 and 12.8 are common but take more work. 2 piece under 2x is possible with homework. Think Coleman rotors and using a stock rotor center as your "hat"
  14. Black Magic

    More brake cooling questions...

    Bremsen, Wet matters if you are trying to extend fluid life to save cost....i get used srf other people are tossing out. New it is about $100 a bottle but i run the same stuff for a half dozen races or more. The wet to dry spread is nothing on srf, so your only concern is particles in fluid (i haven't had much issue here). I have thought of filtering the srf, but 2 years on the same fluid seems wrong even to me. Rob for perspective i have burned the pad material off backing plates and had the brakes hot enough to bend the backers and still had reasonable pedal feel. With srf i was not temp limited on fluid. I would look hard at caliper temp stickers, your heat might be another source (header near hardline). I also ran forced cooling (fans), but either way i think you can make your setup work with some tweaks. I needed rotor mass because of the cracks i would get thru both sides of the rotor cheeks, if yours are still one piece post race your are pretty close to have this sorted.
  15. Black Magic

    More brake cooling questions...

    Rob, Verify your caliper temp with temp stickers. You might be seeing fade that isn't from fluid boil over. What is the wet boiling point of that fluid? It is often the high caliper\pad temp is caused by a lack of rotor cooling making the whole system hotter. If your caliper width would support it a wider rotor (like common 1.25") would give alot more cooling area and lower temps. If you don't want to go this route adding forced cooling to the rotor from your current duct is a great option. Remember last week the avg speed was what, in the 70s. With the fans on you will probally see a flow increase up to 90ish mph. Adding a duct that forces air to blow over the caliper surface can help, but many oem calipers lack the holes and passages racing brakes do which drive up the surface area. Pad\caliper cooling would be my last addition, it may help but isn't the bag for the buck these other mods are.
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