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Black Magic

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Black Magic last won the day on November 1 2020

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  1. With the current rules I would look into something like a honda D15 (60 ish points to swap) as the motor swap. You could then swap on some d16 parts for points or aftermarket. I think 110-120 wheel hp would make that car fly. This is assuming the D15 is reliable, something you want to actually work on etc. Common practice, you will find it is more point conscious to swap in a lower HP engine that you can fix with "fixed vpi" items after that swap (like cams) rather than swapping in a motor that uses all of your points and has to remain stock. Either way this is going to be an uphill battle with your swap weight of 1200 lbs. The national champion, a CRX, was given a swap weight of twice that (2318). If you are serious about the build you may want to lobby for a higher swap weight, especially if you think the finished car weight has no possibility of being close to 1200 lbs.
  2. https://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=304695 Check you grounds. Make sure the ECU has a ground (by headlight on most years).
  3. Still no fuel pump voltage on initial key on? Can you even read codes from the ECU? Similar thread to what you are experiencing. Scroll to the bottom. Ground path and fragile wiring repairs seemed to fix this guys issue. Would check with the FSM procedure that you have power to the coil, crank and cam sensors while cranking. Track down the fuel pump lack of power, that will most likely lead to the wiring issue in the engine\ecu circuit. They can pop ECU's, although I have never experienced that failure.
  4. Do you sell that in amber, for a shift light? Some of us have drivers with difficultly following instructions...
  5. BOD is the target audience for that discussion. It is well known that several "not swap weights" are erroneous, some by a significant fraction of a ton. TAC can help verify the validity of the claim and help weigh in, but your elected officials and CEO make these decisions. I would inquire there first.
  6. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/06/rb25poweredgm/ Was thinking if it looked like that you would have a much easier time with tech.
  7. That is a really neat build. This is obviously a lot more work, but I wonder if management and tech would have taken a softer approach if you used more of the stock rear frame rails in your mounting? Basically cut the frame where you did, angle the rear of the frame up and create much of the backbone of your subframe mount from the OE frame horns. Does it basically build what you currently have with different material....yeah. Is it alot more work just to end up with the same structure.....yeah. However emotionally it would look more like a modified structure vs a "tube frame" and might buy you some wiggle room. I think you will want to laterally support your strut mounts (a strut bar with some other tie in to the frame\mount), the spring loads may "splay" your U shaped tubular strut mounts or fatigue them over time. Otherwise some pretty well laid out work.
  8. Be fair to our ability to complain as a group, 3 of those 4 have been at the center of a pretty large questions over parity in the series. Nature of motorsports, you either find, lobby or fall into an advantage and then it gets taken away. If that cycle ever ended it would get very boring (in particular for those of us who make a living off the cycle).
  9. Terrible, helped a team with one behind a LT1. A quick Google search of the #of clutches in each pack will show you how fragile OD (4th) is. It would sort of live if you never shifted to 4th
  10. Bumpsteer, Ackerman, net toe change with steering. Packaging the steering gear and center link usually makes you compromise on these (to have an oil pan fit), but some cars do a very good job with placing these (German)
  11. FWIW the best handling car of all the teams I have helped has a steering box (not a rack). Geometry makes the difference, which is harder to achieve but not impossible with a steering box. Depowering a GM box?....you will most likely want to disassemble the box to weld up the valve or swap to a much bigger T bar. Without going into great detail on this (you can google) the spring (the t bar) you wind up (when turning the wheel against a load) to open the valve that provides the desired power steering pressure will give the steering some displacement before it becomes stiff. This low rate band can be annoying to the driver, and if you turn the wheel back and forth with motor off (car on ground) you will see what I mean (if your car has a soft t bar). Repowering racks and steering boxes is a pretty well documented thing, both on youtube and as a service provided by shops. I would steer (I know, bad dad joke) away from oem manual steering boxes. They usually have very low steering ratios, you don't want the drivers asking for a trucker steering knob to make turns....
  12. Via the same process Family Guy episodes are written (according to South Park). We get the manatees to draw balls with VPI #s written on them......
  13. Basically never wears...... The repave has moved the tire wear to about what you would expect at barber. Lemons guys will get a 24 race plus potentially another race day out of a set. The kink is also nearly gone and the line now matches what you would "geometrically" expect vs driving around looking for the best patches of grip.
  14. A few of us are (un)fortunate enough to race neons. A few common pointers 1) Get a proper mopar repair manual for the car. They are cheap online, as no one else really wants 90s dealer books 2) There are differences in the wiring 95, 96-some 97, and 98-99. Get the book for the year you have. Main split is 95-96+, change in ecu and engine wiring after 95. 3) Do you have power to the engine sensors with the key in the run position. Should be 5 or 8 volts. 4) If no power to engine sensors with key on, common issues on these cars is a fault in the ASR circuit. It is the power for all the engine sensors and other critical engine functions, designed to shut everything down in the event of fire\short\crash. If any part of the engine harness shorts you lose everything. Often the harness on the back of the engine for the crank, o2 and alternator gets melted and shorts taking out the entire ASR circuit (usually blowing the ASR fuse) 5) Some functions in the engine power circuit are ground controlled on the neon. A bad ground to the switch, relay, etc will cause issues. Had this happen on a neon I was doing cage work in, I had unbolted something that was (unknown to me) resting on the switch panel providing an accidental ground path. The car would run if the tools in the car were randomly arranged to provide ground to the panel the switch was grounded to, when they moved the car would turn off. 6) If you have power to the engine sensors depending on the year you only need crank and tps, or crank, tps and cam (96) to at least get spark and try to run. Check the harness for cracks\broken wires at the TPS, crank and coil. Those take a beating, get hard\cooked over time and can create issues. Crank sensors are cheap, if you question it. They are incredibly simple cars electrically and with a real manual things will get alot easier....
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