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Black Magic

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Everything posted by Black Magic

  1. Do you need the bellows? Looks like you have room for thermal expansion at the Y, if you make slip joints there. If you have welded the pipe at that point, hopefully you can remove the weld. At the slip joint use tabs and bolts with mechanical interference nuts to keep the slip joint from separating. Design the joint so the slip joint is only 3/4 or so engaged when at rest (room to grow) with bolts set to have minimal slop at this point. FWIW most of the race cars I have seen use slip joints over bellows. On my own cars I have never been able to make the bellows last when mounted near the engine\hot side of the exhaust.
  2. Not a BMW expert, but in all of the other cars I have prepared I bypass the heater core by using a loop of hose with a metal restrictor in it. This allows some coolant to flow through the oem path (was the heater) but prevents excessive flow through the circuit. Cars I have helped work on that have the heat\block ports blocked are harder to bleed all of the air out of. Also I have seen several rubber caps fail when used as blockoffs. I think it is actually hard to find caps built to the same quality as proper cooling system hose (that has been looped). I think in the end if you are willing to "do it right" blockoffs can be done, just most of the ones I have seen either are clearly air traps and or future leak paths.
  3. With the current rules I would look into something like a honda D15 (60 ish points to swap) as the motor swap. You could then swap on some d16 parts for points or aftermarket. I think 110-120 wheel hp would make that car fly. This is assuming the D15 is reliable, something you want to actually work on etc. Common practice, you will find it is more point conscious to swap in a lower HP engine that you can fix with "fixed vpi" items after that swap (like cams) rather than swapping in a motor that uses all of your points and has to remain stock. Either way this is going to be an uphill battle with your swap weight of 1200 lbs. The national champion, a CRX, was given a swap weight of twice that (2318). If you are serious about the build you may want to lobby for a higher swap weight, especially if you think the finished car weight has no possibility of being close to 1200 lbs.
  4. https://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=304695 Check you grounds. Make sure the ECU has a ground (by headlight on most years).
  5. Still no fuel pump voltage on initial key on? Can you even read codes from the ECU? Similar thread to what you are experiencing. Scroll to the bottom. Ground path and fragile wiring repairs seemed to fix this guys issue. Would check with the FSM procedure that you have power to the coil, crank and cam sensors while cranking. Track down the fuel pump lack of power, that will most likely lead to the wiring issue in the engine\ecu circuit. They can pop ECU's, although I have never experienced that failure.
  6. Do you sell that in amber, for a shift light? Some of us have drivers with difficultly following instructions...
  7. BOD is the target audience for that discussion. It is well known that several "not swap weights" are erroneous, some by a significant fraction of a ton. TAC can help verify the validity of the claim and help weigh in, but your elected officials and CEO make these decisions. I would inquire there first.
  8. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/06/rb25poweredgm/ Was thinking if it looked like that you would have a much easier time with tech.
  9. That is a really neat build. This is obviously a lot more work, but I wonder if management and tech would have taken a softer approach if you used more of the stock rear frame rails in your mounting? Basically cut the frame where you did, angle the rear of the frame up and create much of the backbone of your subframe mount from the OE frame horns. Does it basically build what you currently have with different material....yeah. Is it alot more work just to end up with the same structure.....yeah. However emotionally it would look more like a modified structure vs a "tube frame" and might buy you some wiggle room. I think you will want to laterally support your strut mounts (a strut bar with some other tie in to the frame\mount), the spring loads may "splay" your U shaped tubular strut mounts or fatigue them over time. Otherwise some pretty well laid out work.
  10. Be fair to our ability to complain as a group, 3 of those 4 have been at the center of a pretty large questions over parity in the series. Nature of motorsports, you either find, lobby or fall into an advantage and then it gets taken away. If that cycle ever ended it would get very boring (in particular for those of us who make a living off the cycle).
  11. Terrible, helped a team with one behind a LT1. A quick Google search of the #of clutches in each pack will show you how fragile OD (4th) is. It would sort of live if you never shifted to 4th
  12. Bumpsteer, Ackerman, net toe change with steering. Packaging the steering gear and center link usually makes you compromise on these (to have an oil pan fit), but some cars do a very good job with placing these (German)
  13. FWIW the best handling car of all the teams I have helped has a steering box (not a rack). Geometry makes the difference, which is harder to achieve but not impossible with a steering box. Depowering a GM box?....you will most likely want to disassemble the box to weld up the valve or swap to a much bigger T bar. Without going into great detail on this (you can google) the spring (the t bar) you wind up (when turning the wheel against a load) to open the valve that provides the desired power steering pressure will give the steering some displacement before it becomes stiff. This low rate band can be annoying to the driver, and if you turn the wheel back and forth with motor off (car on ground) you will see what I mean (if your car has a soft t bar). Repowering racks and steering boxes is a pretty well documented thing, both on youtube and as a service provided by shops. I would steer (I know, bad dad joke) away from oem manual steering boxes. They usually have very low steering ratios, you don't want the drivers asking for a trucker steering knob to make turns....
  14. Via the same process Family Guy episodes are written (according to South Park). We get the manatees to draw balls with VPI #s written on them......
  15. Basically never wears...... The repave has moved the tire wear to about what you would expect at barber. Lemons guys will get a 24 race plus potentially another race day out of a set. The kink is also nearly gone and the line now matches what you would "geometrically" expect vs driving around looking for the best patches of grip.
  16. A few of us are (un)fortunate enough to race neons. A few common pointers 1) Get a proper mopar repair manual for the car. They are cheap online, as no one else really wants 90s dealer books 2) There are differences in the wiring 95, 96-some 97, and 98-99. Get the book for the year you have. Main split is 95-96+, change in ecu and engine wiring after 95. 3) Do you have power to the engine sensors with the key in the run position. Should be 5 or 8 volts. 4) If no power to engine sensors with key on, common issues on these cars is a fault in the ASR circuit. It is the power for all the engine sensors and other critical engine functions, designed to shut everything down in the event of fire\short\crash. If any part of the engine harness shorts you lose everything. Often the harness on the back of the engine for the crank, o2 and alternator gets melted and shorts taking out the entire ASR circuit (usually blowing the ASR fuse) 5) Some functions in the engine power circuit are ground controlled on the neon. A bad ground to the switch, relay, etc will cause issues. Had this happen on a neon I was doing cage work in, I had unbolted something that was (unknown to me) resting on the switch panel providing an accidental ground path. The car would run if the tools in the car were randomly arranged to provide ground to the panel the switch was grounded to, when they moved the car would turn off. 6) If you have power to the engine sensors depending on the year you only need crank and tps, or crank, tps and cam (96) to at least get spark and try to run. Check the harness for cracks\broken wires at the TPS, crank and coil. Those take a beating, get hard\cooked over time and can create issues. Crank sensors are cheap, if you question it. They are incredibly simple cars electrically and with a real manual things will get alot easier....
  17. That came out harsher than I meant to write it. I was trying to remind teams that "stock fuel limit" isn't a term with enforcement in the rules when talking about OE fuel tanks.
  18. Carefully read the rules, stock tanks have a requirement to 1) not be ballooned and 2) be the stock part. We do not control stock fuel tank venting, which is how most oe tanks limit their capacity. The oe vapor float valve stops air in tank from being vented after a certain fill level when using a fuel pump nozzle. This effectively creates no exact limit on stock tank useable fuel, but does force you to use a stock tank (imagine if we decide\tried to 3d scan your tank, it better match the surface of a stock tank). If you can tilt\rock\wiggle\pray your stock tank into getting more fuel in the evap dead space in the tank, then you can run more. Same for OE parts, if you tilted the car while slowly filling you can overfill OE car systems.
  19. Based on the %volume many oems leave for evap control in 90s and newer cars, I would guess about anything over 16 gal oem capacity could potentially get over the +2 with alot of testing on how to fill it. The +2 rule is actually pretty close for many of you 12 ish gallon small cars. As a blind guess rule, it actually balanced the two options fairly well.
  20. Your concern and point is correct. For that reason NASCAR controls the dimensions of the bladder, not the pumpout of the cell. There are a few popular games in the rest of racing to cheat how much fuel is actually pumped out from a cell that is stationary with no fuel returning to the cell when using the pump. If you literally removed the cell and manually dumped it the manipulation gets a little harder..... You should really be displacement checking the balls vs the outside dimensions of the fuel cell container. Or, like what happened at the track, you have a better shot of noticing the fuel going in and using that as the basis to pull the cell apart. Granted you would still not get the desired outcome of "controlling" the pumpout to be an exact number. There are other manipulations you can play with cell fit to add capacity to a box of the same starting dimensions as stock, but you would be able to prove a team started with a XX gallon thing and had YY gallons of deadspace in it. Equity of starting point, everyone would know what size box they can buy, which is closer to how stock tanks are treated (mostly). I think having a cell much larger than needed with tons of displacement blockage should also be a red flag, economically you wouldn't do that unless you were a lemons crossover team. I think Tuttle either didn't knowingly cheat, or didn't get a proficient enough expert to help, because setting up the cell to pass the pumpout test with no displacement blocks in it would not have been hard.
  21. Gonna have to see if they can sell blanks or sell 5 lug versions of those wheels. That could work great, if I get another hole in them (need 5 x 100 vs 4 x 100) Looked briefly and didn't see 5x100, but will look more. The 5.5 BS could work well, just not sure I can redrill 5 x 120.6 (5x 4.75) to 5 x 100, less or much more bolt center spacing change would be possible. Hopefully SSR has custom drilling options or can sell me blanks.
  22. There has been several cars with the engine setback increased that have raced in the series, so there is clear precident for this being done. I think it was the looney tunes mustang I saw out west with huge setback, that was a long time ago.
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