Jump to content

Hi_Im_Will

Members
  • Content Count

    1,025
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Hi_Im_Will last won the day on July 15 2018

Hi_Im_Will had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,403

5 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Dearborn, MI

Recent Profile Visitors

2,728 profile views
  1. Yeah, what donkey-hole let that guy drive?? Thanks for the heads up, that was one hell of a PUY. Surprised he didn't get black flagged for that. @Jamie was not driving, and the guy who was should definitely know better.
  2. @wvumtnbkr. Doing VIR 24h instead, then going to Kentucky for a friend's 30th over Gingerman weekend. Set FTD for me.
  3. Dammit, you guys are making me wish I'd signed up. All that beer and BBQ...
  4. When Chris and I specced out an e46 build, we decided that the answer was 323i brakes and 15x10 steelies with 245/40R15 Rival S 1.5. Cheap, and the tiny diameter gets the ride height where it needs to be without over compressing the suspension. As a bonus it helps out on effective final drive. We also decided that it needed big aero, because lower top speed and never slowing down makes the 323i brakes survive. And then it needs to be an auto trans 330 to have points for aero and not be slow. Preferably an early coupe with the ZF trans, because the gear ratios in the GM trans are terrible, and coupe for weight. And finally control the whole thing with megasquirt, and use a microsquirt to control the tranny. You need the combo to be able to get manual shifting and auto-blip on the downshifts. There's some other trick with the auto to make it survive too, and not just demolish clutches when it burps fluid..... So yeah, 245/40r15 Rivals on 15x10 Bassetts, but there are some supporting mods.
  5. OMP HTE-r. Cheap halo seat that's available in 2 widths. Also check out the OMP RS-PT2. Same seat as the hte, but they made the driver side halo narrower so it fits in a miata. Little heavier because they had to make the material a lot thicker to make up for the lost cross section in the shape of the halo, but a very compact seat that can fit not very compact drivers. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=12847
  6. Know your temps? A "7cst" oil is just fine if you stay under ~80C. We ran Redline D4 for years as it minimized trans temps (good indication it's the lowest loss). 7cst oil, gears and synchros were happy with it. Surprisingly the shift forks were not, so had to increase viscosity a bit to stop them wearing out.
  7. Correct, the total volume is 2qts, split between the surge chamber and the reserve chamber.
  8. Not a dumb question at all. Mechanically different because there's two chambers inside - one is your normal surge tank, the other is the reserve. The reserve is always full, and only gets used on command. The big advantages to this method over just pitting when the surge starts to get low are: -This system is not reliant on a level sensor to tell you when to pit. Fuel level sensors are inherently inaccurate when there's a ton of slosh. Putting the sensor in the surge helps, and the sensor can be mechanically damped to help some more, but once that surge starts running low the sensing gets less accurate. In the reserve system, the sensor is a secondary piece of information. It's confirmation that you're low, not that only indication. Even if a sticky sensor fails to warn you, and the tank runs dry, there's still 1qt available to get you back to the pit lane under full power. In fact, the sensing circuit isn't even required- you could just wait for the engine to stutter and use that as the level warning. Then flip switch to get full power back, and drive to pit lane at race pace. - The reserve system is NOT automatic. This is a feature. With a traditional surge system, a red-misted driver can miss the warning and run out on track (again, see PIRC). With the reserve, they have to flip a switch to keep racing, which forces them to acknowledge that it is time to pit. - When the warning comes, your remaining fuel is consistent. With a surge, the remaining level at the warning is an ugly function of related pump flow rates, capacities, main tank geometry, and g loading. All that results in huge variation in remaining fuel car to car, and large variation stint to stint. With the reserve system, you have 1 qt at the warning, every time, on every car. No learning and no guessing. Keep asking!
  9. Will keep you posted, planning to have them in time for VIR.
  10. @Originalsterm See below. It's a 2qt surge tank with a reserve tank inside. Hooks up just like a normal surge tank - feed with lifts, draw with pressure, and provide a return back to the main tank. The system is designed such that the reserve is always full. As you drive, the surge portion works like a normal surge tank, making sure the pressure pump inlet always has fuel, even if one of the lift pumps runs dry. When the main tank goes empty, the surge will eventually run down and this will show up either on your fuel pressure sensor or the level sensor inside the surge (or as a stutter, if you don't like warning lights). That's your warning - assuming you have the lifts positioned well, the car is about to be dead on the track (see our Pittsburgh Sunday race last year, CC Live caught that happening to us). Flip a switch to turn on the reserve pump, and it will feed your pressure pump the 1qt of fuel in reserve, which should be just enough to get you back around to pit lane under full power. No guessing on range, this guarantees you pit on the last possible lap. Put a couple renders below to give you an idea what it looks like. The tank is drilled for -6 ORB, so you can set it up for AN, barb, or whatever else you like. Includes everything shown in the exploded view, but I can make the bracket too if there's enough interest to make it worthwhile.
  11. Ohh, I see where you're going. I might have a solution for you, at least for the 7 hr races. Been brewing a reserve system that drains the tank completely while under full power, gives you a warning, then the driver flips a switch and gets a single lap to get back to the pits under full power before there's zero fuel left in the car. Designed for just that kind of strategy where you need to stretch to the last drop, like waiting out the FCY for your single fuel stop. About to kick off machining so I can use it at VIR, and would be happy to build you one. Along with that, maybe you could argue for +2 gallons without a cell? Might start a forum fire if you push that here, but worth asking nicely in a phone call.
  12. Recommend not putting a cell in E30. The stock tank is very well protected, low, and centrally located. Driveshaft prevents a cell from going in the same location, so your cell would be in the trunk. This does a few things: 1. Moves fuel system from inside the cage to outside where it's not protected 2. Moves the mass closer to the end of the car, which is a negative for handling 3. Makes your F/R weight distribution change more dramatically as you burn fuel, so car will get pushy as fuel load decreases 4. Takes a convenient place for packaging an enormous diffuser and fills it with something that's not a diffuser Instead, I recommend the stock 16 gallon tank with dual lift pumps and a surge tank system. Much better than a cell in the E30 as an overall package.
  13. Correct, Misha only drove on Sunday. We won Saturday without him.
×
×
  • Create New...