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Everything posted by Hi_Im_Will

  1. Finally took some pictures of the reserve tank system:
  2. I was going to write something about how much I love the Ford 6.7, then saw this. Nice buy! Even got a new enough one that they fixed the only real problem with the silly plastic boost pipe.
  3. Lost a rear trailing arm bolt, which created enough slop for the spring to fall out, which took out the inner cvj on the way. Hopefully better tomorrow.
  4. Also, holy moly this is a crazy fast field. Congrats to Paul on the win. Hope we can do better tomorrow.
  5. There was some race at WGI I think where you and Misha started nose to tail. I remember asking both of you to take it easy and please don't race each other, because it's first stint and I had just rebuilt the car after watching the old one get balled up there. Had to be no more than 3 laps in and I see a green MR2 side by side when a silver BMW, both cars half sideways, sliding right up to the wall on the exit of the last corner, and one of them completely on the curb. I almost shat myself. You could have probably reached out the window of bio and touched Misha's mirror. Somehow y'all sta
  6. Thanks! Second time, and very under-prepared. The Belle isle part is awesome. Did the injectors myself. With the MS3 you can command a single injector to open, so we just pull the rail and injectors off the intake, point one into a measuring cup, command open for a few minutes, measure level, then on to the next one.
  7. Nope. Got work preventing me from coming Friday or Saturday, and running the Detroit Marathon Sunday morning. Letting other people have some fun with the car.
  8. Thanks to everybody for the suggestions. Car is packed and trailer on it's way. Problem turned out to be the coil. It was strong enough to drive a spark plug outside the cylinder, and even drive a plug with a 0.120" gap, but too weak to drive a properly gapped plug inside the cylinder and under compression. Swapped coil with a new one and car started instantly. On the upside, we now know that all 6 injectors flow within 3% of each other, the timing for the cam and crank are perfect, the crank sensor has zero drop outs, and we have a shiny new spare coil driver. Now
  9. This is a fresh head on the motor we've been running all season, so kinda new build. Been cranking so much I doubt there's oil on anything, so I'll add ATF in the spark plugs holes to the list. Injectors click, pulled the rail last night and they don't look dirty or clogged, but will flow them too. Also replacing the gas, since maybe that went sour?
  10. Thanks, will let you know if we find something. Plan after work is to replace the entire injection and ignition systems, see if that helps.
  11. SE30 kicks you out at 160whp and adds ballast at 158whp if I remember right. We make 163whp with a blueprinted motor, port cleanup, and standalone ECU. Most of our janky refreshed junkyard motors on stock electronics made ~154whp back in the day.
  12. Maybe? My car refuses to start, so may need garage to continue figuring out why it doesn't start. Great compression, correct timing (cam and ignition), strong spark, correct fuel pressure, and not a single fire from any of the cylinders, even with a giant blast of ether. Just cranks and cranks and cranks (at 180rpm, never dropping below 11 volts).
  13. A gallon of fuel is ~.5" in the bottom of a standard 18 gallon fuel cell. When that's sloshing around at well over a g, changing direction every few seconds, how the hell are you going to measure depth with that level of precision? And that .5" is precision, if you get it, is only going to tell you your range within ~7 minutes. That's a big error. I think the closest you're going to get to comparative fuel consumption data is integrating pulse width over the lap. It will tell you a lot about how hard people are driving relative to each other, how effective your conservation is,
  14. Seconded on Wingmen Aerodynamics. Recommend sticking with the stock late model fuel tank, as it is very well protected. With a good twin lift and surge setup, it can get to 2 hours (assuming mild aero and tuning, and you don't drive like a maniac). With some tricks I'm sure it can get to 2 hours even running FTD-pace laps, but I'm one of those crazies who prefers to do an extra stop so that I have the flexibility in strategy to catch FCYs, so haven't put much effort into the 2 hours-balls-out thing yet....
  15. Did I show you the reserve system on Friday night at PIRC? Got one in my car, there was one in another E30 at PIRC, and two more are about to get delivered. Two level warnings in the surge side, plus a reserve to get you back to the pit when you ignore them and run out on track: You know you want one.
  16. Yeah, what donkey-hole let that guy drive?? Thanks for the heads up, that was one hell of a PUY. Surprised he didn't get black flagged for that. @Jamie was not driving, and the guy who was should definitely know better.
  17. @wvumtnbkr. Doing VIR 24h instead, then going to Kentucky for a friend's 30th over Gingerman weekend. Set FTD for me.
  18. Dammit, you guys are making me wish I'd signed up. All that beer and BBQ...
  19. When Chris and I specced out an e46 build, we decided that the answer was 323i brakes and 15x10 steelies with 245/40R15 Rival S 1.5. Cheap, and the tiny diameter gets the ride height where it needs to be without over compressing the suspension. As a bonus it helps out on effective final drive. We also decided that it needed big aero, because lower top speed and never slowing down makes the 323i brakes survive. And then it needs to be an auto trans 330 to have points for aero and not be slow. Preferably an early coupe with the ZF trans, because the gear ratios in the GM trans a
  20. OMP HTE-r. Cheap halo seat that's available in 2 widths. Also check out the OMP RS-PT2. Same seat as the hte, but they made the driver side halo narrower so it fits in a miata. Little heavier because they had to make the material a lot thicker to make up for the lost cross section in the shape of the halo, but a very compact seat that can fit not very compact drivers. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=12847
  21. Know your temps? A "7cst" oil is just fine if you stay under ~80C. We ran Redline D4 for years as it minimized trans temps (good indication it's the lowest loss). 7cst oil, gears and synchros were happy with it. Surprisingly the shift forks were not, so had to increase viscosity a bit to stop them wearing out.
  22. Correct, the total volume is 2qts, split between the surge chamber and the reserve chamber.
  23. Not a dumb question at all. Mechanically different because there's two chambers inside - one is your normal surge tank, the other is the reserve. The reserve is always full, and only gets used on command. The big advantages to this method over just pitting when the surge starts to get low are: -This system is not reliant on a level sensor to tell you when to pit. Fuel level sensors are inherently inaccurate when there's a ton of slosh. Putting the sensor in the surge helps, and the sensor can be mechanically damped to help some more, but once that surge starts runn
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