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mcoppola

Technical Advisory Committee
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mcoppola last won the day on March 27

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About mcoppola

  • Birthday 12/05/1959

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  • Location:
    South Lyon, MI
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  1. @Black Magic With the Neons being 5x100, it may be better to do as @mender did, moving to the more common 5x114.3 (4.5") pattern if wheels are more readily available in that pattern. (I've never looked.) I didn't take the time to sketch it out just , but I recall when the shops were building hubs for us, they said going from a 4 bolt to a 5 bolt pattern in a similar spacing (100, 114, 4.5", 5" , etc.) is sometimes not possible, and vice versa - due to holes overlapping. There ARE ways around that though (plugging holes in hubs, or using larger diameter knurled section studs, etc.)
  2. Thanks @MMiskoe. I just switched from Blues to Porterfield R-4's (haven't tried them yet), under the advice of longtime series sponsor Mark Link at Frozen Rotors. Mark told me exactly what you described - a bit less initial bite, but better modulation. Your experience and observations on slicks vs 200TW makes sense (to me) too. I saw this note on the site @ETR linked: "Hawk recommends if another brand of carbon pad has been used on rotors previously, before using any Hawk compound pads, resurface or replace the rotors." This seems to make sense to me. But i
  3. The problem I found with trying to find wheels that I could re-drill was that most often there are void areas between the lugs for weight savings, etc. Rarely do you have a flat round hub face on a wheel to be able to re-drill it. At least that's what I found... A lot of the Focus guys have gone from the 4x108 bolt pattern to the more commonly used 4x100, by re-drilling the hubs and rotors. There are are multitude of wheels available in the 4x100 size due to their use on Miatas, Hondas, and E30's. That seems to be the size that the new lightweight flow form wheels seem most abundant in, t
  4. another @Team Infiniti fan here. Texted Ed halfway through the race, but I'm sure his phone is full. That's what happens when you're a good guy!!!!
  5. I’m having flashbacks. Thats exactly what happened to me About 20 some years ago when I went down to mid Ohio to watch my buddies’ SCCA national race. I wasn’t listed on anyone’s crew so they wouldn’t let me in the gate after the 3 Hour drive.
  6. I see the OP has withdrawn from this race. I can't imagine why they cancelled what was probably a bucket list trip and race for them.
  7. That’s exactly what I described. Leave your shoulder bar as it is, one piece full width. Add the one piece diagonal bar in the same plane as the main hoop, and in the space between the two you just add in a short bar in the fore/aft direction to connect them. (Where the arrow is at. Sorry for the crude artwork lol) In this scenario, The main hoop and diagonal will be in the same flat plane (strongest) and the shoulder bar will be just as strong with the rearward bow and tied at the diagonal, as it would be if it too were planar with the main hoop. edit: from a side crash perspec
  8. That looks like a real nice tight fit on both the main and shoulder bar. Consider running the main hoop diagonal bar as one piece, straight from driver side top corner to passenger side bottom corner. Then just use a small section of straight tube to connect your shoulder bar to the diagonal. The diagonal needs to absorb way more force in a rollover/crush scenario than a shoulder bar will ever see from belt loads. So I would keep the diagonal straight for that reason. Some Miatas (see below) and others have a bowed shoulder bar only on the driver side, and a straight tube completin
  9. I tried to find a good side view pic of an S-10. Best one I could find that shows the cab profile, this one came with a dog in it, lol. From what's described, it looks like the bottom portion of the main hoop could be more rearward of where the top could be, due to the slight slope of the upper portion of cab. edit: @mgoblue06 I think that would be a better solution than bending the main hoop bar in a fore/aft direction. You could always bow the shoulder hoop back to get the same effective clearance (most space) for the driver. Did you mention you are ne
  10. I found this handy chart for understanding offsets and backspacing. as a rule of thumb, add 1” (1/2” for each bead/lip) to your wheel width, and divide it in half to get a “zero offset” wheel. Example, for a 8” wide wheel, the overall width would be 9.” A zero offset wheel has 4.5” backspacing. Usually we are concerned with the backspacing dimension to clear suspension struts, etc. so if a wheel listing shows offset you can use this chart, or the “rule of thumb” to calculate backspacing.
  11. ^^^^All of the above. it sure would be nice to be able to shop for wheels the same way we can for tire sizes. Not sure who’s got a good website for that other than going to the manufacturer for info and then finding a distributor as mentioned above. A lot of research needs to be done to get the correct fitment you need. Its mostly due to the fact that the sizes and offsets we use in our cars are not the same as stock, or close to stock. Most outlets have never done the physical installation of our odd sizes to ensure clearance. In fact, they’re probably not even interested in selling
  12. ???? A lot of FWD teams swap front to back. Not sure if we've ever done it during a race... edit: ....but I can understand (as @petawawaracesaid) a difference between swapping tires and installing new ones. the penalty shouldn't be the same.
  13. When asked by Tech/BOD how the C4 IRS conversion should be assessed, TAC member responses echoed this line of thinking. Several of us arrived at 105-110 points when using current BCCR verbiage.
  14. Yep, race control and competitors could and will point out if a team is giving Pit Out the correct info , just as it is done with fuel now.
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