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mcoppola

Technical Advisory Committee
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Everything posted by mcoppola

  1. @gundy I know, thanks for putting this together. My number police comment was directed ay my good pal @enginerd in return for his ribbing...
  2. Hey at least you had us on the list. If you guys are the number police, how many races do I gotta do to hold 393 @enginerd
  3. #393 - Stay Focus'd - Black 2003 Focus SVT
  4. I was just looking at the entry list for Autobahn and wondered who 'waiting for data' in car 515 is. Great job Glen, nice consistent races. Also looking forward to seeing you at Autobahn.
  5. Pat of the confusion here is that - Correct me if I'm wrong - there is nothing in the BCCR that allows for +2 gallons on a car with a stock fuel tank. Right or wrong can be debated (and has been, and will be) but the only area the +2 gallon allowance is mentioned is when installing a fuel cell. Also - fuel cell stated capacity does not include the surge tank, fill tube, etc.
  6. Does this come with displacement balls? - with or without holes?
  7. Show me a factory service manual that sets a limit on how much a cylinder head can be decked. SMH
  8. @wvumtnbkr say whut? An RX-8 3400 (or 3500) in the works?
  9. @Black Magic With the Neons being 5x100, it may be better to do as @mender did, moving to the more common 5x114.3 (4.5") pattern if wheels are more readily available in that pattern. (I've never looked.) I didn't take the time to sketch it out just , but I recall when the shops were building hubs for us, they said going from a 4 bolt to a 5 bolt pattern in a similar spacing (100, 114, 4.5", 5" , etc.) is sometimes not possible, and vice versa - due to holes overlapping. There ARE ways around that though (plugging holes in hubs, or using larger diameter knurled section studs, etc.) Once again, I've found that most hub faces and rotors have material to work with in changing a bolt pattern, whereas changing a pattern on a wheel, or getting someone to make blanks, was a more difficult and thus far unsuccessful path (for me).
  10. Thanks @MMiskoe. I just switched from Blues to Porterfield R-4's (haven't tried them yet), under the advice of longtime series sponsor Mark Link at Frozen Rotors. Mark told me exactly what you described - a bit less initial bite, but better modulation. Your experience and observations on slicks vs 200TW makes sense (to me) too. I saw this note on the site @ETR linked: "Hawk recommends if another brand of carbon pad has been used on rotors previously, before using any Hawk compound pads, resurface or replace the rotors." This seems to make sense to me. But it does conflict with something Mark just told me during our conversations. I asked if I'd need new, or to resurface my rotors for the R-4's after using Blues on them. His "trick of the trade" he shared was to save any old Blues you have. Supposedly if you put them on a used rotor and brake a few times as if under normal driving conditions, they will clean up the rotor surface, preparing it for a fresh set of different compound pads. I've never tried it - any old wily veterans that have heard of, or done this?
  11. The problem I found with trying to find wheels that I could re-drill was that most often there are void areas between the lugs for weight savings, etc. Rarely do you have a flat round hub face on a wheel to be able to re-drill it. At least that's what I found... A lot of the Focus guys have gone from the 4x108 bolt pattern to the more commonly used 4x100, by re-drilling the hubs and rotors. There are are multitude of wheels available in the 4x100 size due to their use on Miatas, Hondas, and E30's. That seems to be the size that the new lightweight flow form wheels seem most abundant in, too. My advice would be if possible, redrill huibs and rotors to get to a more commony used bolt pattern. These size wheels 4x100, also seem to be some of the best offerings for the money considering choices, availability, weight and quality. A typical alloy 15x9 or 15x10 is about 16-18 lbs, whereas the flow form versions in those sizes are 10-12 lbs. Close to 24 lbs of unsprung, rotational weight right there! (Oops, shhhhh, nobody saw that....)
  12. another @Team Infiniti fan here. Texted Ed halfway through the race, but I'm sure his phone is full. That's what happens when you're a good guy!!!!
  13. I’m having flashbacks. Thats exactly what happened to me About 20 some years ago when I went down to mid Ohio to watch my buddies’ SCCA national race. I wasn’t listed on anyone’s crew so they wouldn’t let me in the gate after the 3 Hour drive.
  14. I see the OP has withdrawn from this race. I can't imagine why they cancelled what was probably a bucket list trip and race for them.
  15. That’s exactly what I described. Leave your shoulder bar as it is, one piece full width. Add the one piece diagonal bar in the same plane as the main hoop, and in the space between the two you just add in a short bar in the fore/aft direction to connect them. (Where the arrow is at. Sorry for the crude artwork lol) In this scenario, The main hoop and diagonal will be in the same flat plane (strongest) and the shoulder bar will be just as strong with the rearward bow and tied at the diagonal, as it would be if it too were planar with the main hoop. edit: from a side crash perspective, a straight shoulder bar beats a bowed one, but the amount of bow in the one shown is very minor and will not affect crosscar stiffness as much as if it had a large bend in it.
  16. That looks like a real nice tight fit on both the main and shoulder bar. Consider running the main hoop diagonal bar as one piece, straight from driver side top corner to passenger side bottom corner. Then just use a small section of straight tube to connect your shoulder bar to the diagonal. The diagonal needs to absorb way more force in a rollover/crush scenario than a shoulder bar will ever see from belt loads. So I would keep the diagonal straight for that reason. Some Miatas (see below) and others have a bowed shoulder bar only on the driver side, and a straight tube completing the level transverse connection to the pass side main hoop, but what you have for the shoulder bar will work fine with the short connecting tube I described.
  17. I tried to find a good side view pic of an S-10. Best one I could find that shows the cab profile, this one came with a dog in it, lol. From what's described, it looks like the bottom portion of the main hoop could be more rearward of where the top could be, due to the slight slope of the upper portion of cab. edit: @mgoblue06 I think that would be a better solution than bending the main hoop bar in a fore/aft direction. You could always bow the shoulder hoop back to get the same effective clearance (most space) for the driver. Did you mention you are near Ann Arbor (mgoblue?). I've been interested in your build. If you're somewhat local, I'd enjoy a visit eventually, and would be happy to help out with any questions you might have.
  18. I found this handy chart for understanding offsets and backspacing. as a rule of thumb, add 1” (1/2” for each bead/lip) to your wheel width, and divide it in half to get a “zero offset” wheel. Example, for a 8” wide wheel, the overall width would be 9.” A zero offset wheel has 4.5” backspacing. Usually we are concerned with the backspacing dimension to clear suspension struts, etc. so if a wheel listing shows offset you can use this chart, or the “rule of thumb” to calculate backspacing.
  19. ^^^^All of the above. it sure would be nice to be able to shop for wheels the same way we can for tire sizes. Not sure who’s got a good website for that other than going to the manufacturer for info and then finding a distributor as mentioned above. A lot of research needs to be done to get the correct fitment you need. Its mostly due to the fact that the sizes and offsets we use in our cars are not the same as stock, or close to stock. Most outlets have never done the physical installation of our odd sizes to ensure clearance. In fact, they’re probably not even interested in selling wheels thst would require wheelhouse mods to fit. Its further compounded when you’re dealing with an oddball bolt pattern (4x108mm). Someone mentioned Good-Win-Racing. Yes I’ve found that they not only list offsets, but also provide info for clearance issues that will be encountered - mostly tailored to Miatas though. Probably similar sites for some other commonly tracked cars such as BMW’s, Honda’s?, Mustangs?, etc. ??? Years ago (or any time) I created the brake//hub/wheel package for a GT3 car, I made a template similar to the one @Chris Huggins did for his E30 brake package. I sent off copies of the template to wheel manufacturers to check fit before purchase. The most recent wheels I bought were from a place in California called 18racing.com Its a Rota distributor owned by a very knowledgeable woman (Jenny) with direct ties to the Rota factory. As soon as I mentioned my bolt pattern, she named the car and told me which wheel would provide the most caliper clearance. I was very impressed and sent another racer there that had a similar, good experience. Their website lists most alll pertinent info except for weight if you go there, use the search line and key in your size using their conventions, such as 1585 4x108 for a 15x8.5 etc.
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