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mcoppola

Technical Advisory Committee
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Everything posted by mcoppola

  1. ???? A lot of FWD teams swap front to back. Not sure if we've ever done it during a race... edit: ....but I can understand (as @petawawaracesaid) a difference between swapping tires and installing new ones. the penalty shouldn't be the same.
  2. When asked by Tech/BOD how the C4 IRS conversion should be assessed, TAC member responses echoed this line of thinking. Several of us arrived at 105-110 points when using current BCCR verbiage.
  3. Yep, race control and competitors could and will point out if a team is giving Pit Out the correct info , just as it is done with fuel now.
  4. I added to the post above; "Pit marshals often radio to pit out if a team took fuel or driver change only - the onus would be on them and pit out, to know what each team did for fuel/tires." edit: So Pit In sets all timers to 7 ?? minutes, and enforcement/decision is made at pit out.
  5. This one is interesting too. Perhaps set all the timers to 7 minutes. (or agree on a set time) Fuel only stops = 5 minutes Fuel/tire stops = 7 minutes Pit marshals often radio to pit out if a team took fuel or driver change only - the onus would be on them and pit out, to know what each team did for fuel/tires.
  6. #2 is interesting... No fuel during a tire stop, no air guns (meaning 4-ways, or ratchets only?!!!!), 1 side up at a time, + 1 jack allowed over the wall. (Plus possibly 1 set of tools, so only 1 tire can be worked on at a time?)
  7. Many of us apparently have short memories. MCM went on social media after their first race with ChampCar a few years back and raved about what a piss poor, unprofessional series it was. I recall a lot a flack at the time from both sides. I don't see why and how we would cater to ANY team that would: a) post on social media about how bad the series is, b) Decide to enter races anyway, but continue to display the same lack of respect or caring about any off your fellow racers, their equipment, their safety, nor the time and money spent building a car. For many of us, yes, we'd be done if we lose our car due to an accident. People who don't realize and respect the fact that many of us are amateurs that can barely afford this - they don't belong in THIS series, and need to go play somewhere else. We are a member owned club. If certain members are ruining it for others, don't we have the power to tell teams that are detrimental to the Club, to leave? @DuncanDana @Jer @Doc @E. Tyler Pedersen
  8. If it were me, I would buy 2 of the alternators online. It would still be less expensive than 1 stock alternator in my case, and no worries about finding a spare one on a race weekend. Sure wish I knew alternators and brackets were no points when I made the decision to buy a new one for my car. I could've bought 3 of these for the cost of 1 oem style.
  9. A $250 deposit is all that’s needed to save your spot. Reference Mid Ohio having 38 entrants 5 days after it was announced.
  10. Cleaning out some parts that I won't be using. (2) new Timken TMK-HA590263K Front hubs with bearings $30/each (Fits all mkl an mkll) (1) Hawk HP Plus HB449N.679 front brake pads $75 (Fits SVT) (1) Hawk HP Plus HB430N.547 rear brake pads $75 (Fits SVT) SVT Steering wheel and Driver Air Bag (very good condition) $100 / offer edit 5/3: Steering wheel and DAB are sold. Stock hubs and HP Plus brake pads still available.
  11. Pretty ancient topic, but I still have a set of 4 of these wheels in the basement. They are in almost perfect condition. See first post for details. Make an offer.
  12. Swappers regret? I was imagining that same conversation when I saw Andrew’s post. I was going to quote Andrew and post” aren’t you the guy that talked (I love my M20) Nate into running a Honda? tslk about abusive relationships...
  13. https://www.google.com/search?q=denso+1+wire+alternator&rlz=1C1GCEB_enUS865US868&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi6hM-T-cvvAhXMZs0KHSdcA1EQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1362&bih=797&safe=active&ssui=on
  14. @Bandit stays off the forum for spells , but apparently follows the series closely with some recent observations. When are you coming out to play man? Years ago, when I worked at Team Viper and Roush, I thought you needed a full blown racecar like a Viper or T/A car that I was around in order to have fun racing. I've built a tube frame GT3 chassis, with the intent of doing more, back when I thought you had to have a "real racecar" to go racing. I found out soooo much different. Getting seat time out there in anything, or even coming to the races to volunteer, was a nice shot in the arm for me after building or seeing cars built for others all the time. It reminds me of something I said years ago when hopping off a friend's kid's minibike "put me on anything with a motor and I'm happy." @Bandit hope to see you and your stuff out there eventually, or at least coming out to enjoy the atmosphere and meet some good people. RA would be a good time - near you, and the V8 Mustang boys are coming up too.
  15. Long story short - don't waste $$$ and unnecessary weight like I did. I, and some others, didn't know alternators and brackets were open. Go buy a cheap ($<100) lightweight denso style 1 wire alternator, (or basic old style GM), and mount it anywhere you want, using any materials you want/need for brackets, for no points.
  16. Both cars look nicely prepped. Duh, I forgot you mentioned your Rally background. Is this the 2nd 240? Same color as the first?
  17. Some very nice work. I recall putting a "like" on a post a few months back with some of your pics. The FIA A-pillar bars and gussets are a nice safe touch, along with the seat mounts, foot intrusion bars, main hoop and windshield bars corner tube gussets, A-pillar plates with dimpled holes - there's a whole lot of good stuff going on here. Do you have a background in Rally? This cage meets (all) of the FIA rules.
  18. @Dimsun Racing interesting that you too noticed that. I see so many X style door bars gusseted this way. I've posted the exact same thing you stated about increasing the cross sectional area. I always gusset the sides of the X that need it most, usually the 2 sides with the greatest angle differential.
  19. Another note: Years ago, OEM's used a type of collector on the cast manifolds that had shoulder bolts with springs on them holding the pipe flare/collector to the manifold's rounded outlet, or removable 'doughnut.' Movement is provided here. This type of joint is still sometimes used, but it's weaknesses are some lack of movement in certain planes/angles, and susceptibility to leaks. Most often now, you see flex joints instead of the spring/flange/doughnut design.
  20. Borla is always a good choice. You can find them in oval or round shape. I think @Team Infiniti said they were lifetime warranty too?
  21. Everything @enginerd and others have stated is entirely correct. Here's a bit more info too... Years ago my experiences as a fabricator building custom SS exhaust headers and systems for street rods and race cars taught me some lessons. ALWAYS include flex joint(s) in EVERY exhaust system of any type. Even if everything is rigid mounted - engine, trans, and the entire exhaust system, this is the worst thing you can do for an exhaust system!! No matter if the material used is 304 SS, 410 or 439 SS, or mild steel, the heat in the pipes will make them grow and shrink, the pipes are constantly changing shape and length. The system needs to have some "give" in it, and also needs to be mounted on FLEXIBLE, RUBBER hangers, similar to what you see on most OEM's nowadays. Our rule of thumb was to always allow 3/4" of movement of the entire system to prevent stresses. This is why you see cracks in exhaust pipes, too. They were being restrained from their natural heat cycle movements, and cycled enough times against that resistance to crack them.
  22. That's a standard RA map from their website. ChampCar never runs the Kink. ChampCar always runs the Bend.
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