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Everything posted by djsteviec

  1. @snowman, don't forget to update your profile. Nein Shiza Autosport #529 Mazda Miata (NA) 2017 Thompson 12hr - 15/36 2017 VIR North 8hr Race 1 - 14/61 2017 VIR North 8hr Race 2 - 14/61 2018 Thompson 12hr - DNF
  2. Nothing confusing about it. I am saying, I would be in my own race against all of the EC cars. A would race A, B would race B, etc. Or all 500 pt cars race together for overall. Then a separate race within the race for EC. The 1000 lap is just an easy way to show separation.
  3. So, I read a lot of this forum- but nowhere near all of it. Here are a few simple changes that can be made- The A,B,C,D classes should be removed period, as they don't mean anything to Champcar, and there should only be a trophy for 1,2,3 overall for the 500 point cars. If keeping the classes, make a trophy for each class for 1,2,3 place. Race your class, as we do in all other series. You just have 4 or 5 separate races going on, on track at the same time. It was said as a joke about not wanting to be negative laps, but in reality the negative laps is an issue, as they won't show on Race Monitor or Hero until they are in the +. So, if you ran 99 laps with a 100 lap penalty- you would never show a lap completed. Start all EC cars at zero laps, start all 500 point cars at 1000 laps The gap, as mentioned would not be possible to get close and the complete separation would be done as mentioned. The 1000 lap gap is easily explainable and shown when looking at the timing and scoring. No sponsor will think you were 1000 laps down in the 7hr race. Let any entry in, as you do now. My old car was a class A car- Honda CR-X. It was quick, but with no incidents, perfect pit stops and really good drivers- the best we could get at The Glen was 3rd in class. The way it stands currently, we did not even get a mention for awards. That sucks! No, not looking for participation trophies, just trophies in class. Our current car would be EC if we bring it to a ChampCar, and would be way faster than the 500 point cars. I am only interested in racing if we have a chance to win. I don't have to win, but there needs to be a chance. If not, you may as well do DE events and save the car and components. I would know that running EC, I am only racing against EC cars. Just as I race in Class 3 now, I point by all of the 4 and 5 cars, which I am not racing at all. Until maybe the last lap, where a final position is good for bragging rights. But I am still only racing and winning in class. I have seen EC teams say- "we won overall". Congrats!! You are a 6th grader that beat all of the kindergartner's at dodge ball! You must be soo proud! That is just my 2 cents, along with others suggestions.
  4. Friends of mine are selling their Integra with a lot of spares for $5k! You can get it and modify it till your hearts content, and still not spend that $17k (if you want it to be ChampCar compliant)! Here is info from the post- Endurance race car with lots of extras. Raced in AER 2016. Can easily be made to race Honda challenge, chump car, champ car, lemons racing. 5,000 firm. Acura Integra b20 high compression spare transmissions. Type R front calipers w/ rsx type s rear calipers. Ss lines. Full cage. Fire supresson system. Hot Rodgers radio system Cool suit system. Sparco halo seat and Sparco instructor seat. Scroth belts. Window net. Remote kill system. 1 set of 5zigen and 1 set rpf1. Bmw defrosters. Toykio struts w/ skunk 2 Coilover. Adjustable front and rear camber. Fully gutted with anything unnecessary removed. Lexan rear windows. Multiple spares including doors, calipers, wheel bearings, rear trailing arms, control arms, axles, brakes, clutch disc. I'm sure I'm missing something. Enquiry to myself or Robert Turick. With work schedules it has been too hard for us to get back to the track. Willing to negotiate the removal of radio system, spare rpf1 wheels, cool suit system, or fire suppression system for lower prices. My new house doesn't have a garage built yet and I don't want this car to sit outside for the first time in its life. Here is the link if you can see it. https://www.facebook.com/groups/americanenduranceracing/search/?query=petch&epa=SEARCH_BOX
  5. No prob. All good. And helpful info. @mender, what about putting washers on the bottom of the bolts or studs that mount the backing plate to the axle? Then you can get negative camber.
  6. Mainly AER, but hope to do 1 or 2 events in EC. Thanks! I actually have one, but didn't use it. Checked wear during the day by scrub f tires and appeared even across the entire tread. But the Direzza are very sensitive to pressure, and had a fuel dump issue we were chasing (fixed now), so wasn't paying as close attention as I should have.
  7. It is JDM, but bone stock K24 engine from a TSX. It is a Class B Champcar! Oh, and a supercharger bolted to it. I guess bumped to C with forced induction. I run it in AER, but may do a couple events in EC with it. Most likely Thompson as it is a home track for us.
  8. Equal length half shafts after the fixed mid shaft. Nothing really noticeable. But you definitely need to be able to feather the pedal. You can burn right through 1st, 2nd and 3rd if you want to. Used pretty much only 5th and 6th at Watkins Glen, 4th in the toe. Sounds good. Would love to hear the results. The car weighs 2400#.
  9. 324whp. Reverse stagger- 245/40/17 FR and 225/45/17 RR. Just did our 1st race at The Glen with the Zlll, which we always used on the old CR-X. Had uneven wear, which I think occurred due to high pressure. It looks like the optimal hot temp for the car and tires is 38FR and 36RR with the Zlll. But the temps got to like 50PSI! So, that definitely did not help. Only running about 2-2.5 degrees camber and the tires wore evenly across the tire at proper temp, in short term testing. Should be able to get a minimum of 9hrs on the front. The rear are not wearing at all, which is to be expected. But can't rotate as we used to, due to the stagger.
  10. Hi all, I am looking to see if anyone has any data on Hankook RS4 tires, primarily on FWD cars. I have a high HP FWD and use Zlll, but would like to get more life from the tires. I have heard the RS4 are not good in the rain, but not sure if that is more related to RWD?
  11. For sale- 2- JDM D15B 3 Stage VTEC engines (130HP) (1 new from JDM Engine Depot, 1 out of totaled race car) 1- 5spd from a '95 Civic EX w/ MFactory helical LSD (doesn't grind at all and does not have any issue) 1- JDM 5spd trans from D15B Hasport mounts for D15B/D16Z6 into Gen1 CR-X Hasport cable clutch car to hydro trans '96 EX rear mount 4-2-1 header Z6 intake manifold D15B intake manifold Custom made shift linkage Custom race harness downgraded to OBD1 OBD2 harness Custom Hasport L/ side axle Used R/ axle 2- New spare L/ axles 1- New spare R/ axle P28 ECU Very rare P2J ECU 3 or 4 alternators 2 spare distributor caps Spare timing covers Spare used oil pump Spare coils Enough spare engine and trans seals to rebuild couple times New spare T-belt New spare CV-boot New set of rear wheel cylinders 2 new front wheel bearings Custom made cold air intake (K&N composite kit) 2 '95 Civic radiators (one with fan mounted) New unopened clutch cable 3 or 4 clutches 3 or 4 flywheels Drilled, and tapped valve cover with ports for catch can Spare valve cover D16Z6 good long block, needs rebuild (Gold valve cover) Prefer to sell everything together- $2000 OBO (The MFactory diff alone is $700)
  12. Separate circuit being nothing else on that fuse or relay. It would have it's own relay and it's own dedicated fuse. Just looked at your diagram. You should have 1 relay for your ignition feed , 1 for your A/F sensor, and I like to use a relay for the starter as well. Each relay should have its own fuse. The power to the relays can come from your kill switch or just to Ign, then the sign power can feed the other 2.
  13. I used one for a few years in my CR-X. You are right. It looks good, but is very cheaply made. Luckily, knowing that- check all the connections to make sure they are tight. Also, the push button starter switch will go. I ordered a better aftermarket one after mine crapped out. Now it is all solid. Not used anymore, and in my box of race car spare parts, but solid.
  14. Cover fuel lines or anything fuel related. End of story. Nothing else inside needs to be messed with.
  15. I have the black nylon braided lines for all of my lines on the car. If i had to change the one line in the car, from the Accusump to the FW- I would not like it, but would do it if needed. Trying to enclose it is not feasible.
  16. Any fuel, oil, or coolant lines (including Aeroquip steel braided lines) (Effective 4/26/2019) that pass through the driving compartment must be metal or encased in continuous steel conduit or aluminum tube. (Flex- conduit is not acceptable. (Effective 4/26/2019) Lines wrapped in aluminum tape are not acceptable.) Really?? I get the fuel, it ignites from vapor and the flame travels with it. Coolant/water is not flammable and oil needs fire or an extreme heat source, which is not in the cockpit! I have had my Accusump on my passenger floor since I started racing in my old CR-X. The new car has the Accusump mounted on the tunnel and the line runs along the pass side tunnel and through the FW. How is this possibly a safety issue? On top of that, it is an electronic pressure valve control, so the oil is not getting hot and circulating through the engine. There is no room to enclose it and no other series does this. I would be EC with the new car, but if the oil line needs to be enclosed, I guess I can no longer race in Champ.
  17. Great deal! And I have 2 engines and trans available for this car! 1 unused JDM engine (less than 45k), 1 good running engine. 1 stock JDM trans, 1 D16z6 trans with an M-Factory LSD. No grinds or pops. A bunch of spare parts. (alternators, starters, distributors, JDM and P28 ECU, etc.) $2000 for all of it.
  18. @TeamPandaCRX, I started out drag racing and spent a lot of time and a TON of money getting my car ready for 1/4mi racing. I did the drivetrain install and a custom wiring harness in my buddies car and he gave me a seat for a Lemons event. Once I did a road course track and W2W, I never looked back! There is no better adrenaline rush than W2W racing!! BTW, I see CR-X in your name. I have 2 JDM D15B 3 stage VTEC engines and trans for sale. 1 engine and trans are new JDM stock spares, the other came out of my parted out CR-X and has an M-Factory LSD in the trans. LMK if interested.
  19. Probably not a bad idea, but you will need spacers, depending on the offset. I had a 38 offset and 205 was the biggest I could fit. You will also then need flares. Even with the 205s i needed flares.
  20. Go 205/50/15 unless you have a lot of HP. 150whp or less, you are good. As long as they fit and don't rub the struts or fenders for offset, you are good. And when you add in negative camber for better handling, it will give you more fender clearance. Dunlop Direzza Zlll are very sticky, great in rain and wear well.
  21. I did a lot of research and talked with a lot of people. I went with a gas system rather than the AFFF foam system. Need to think about a possible accidental discharge more so than the car on fire. Hopefully the car never catches on fire, but the systems are only to get you more time to get out of the car. It is a bonus if it puts the fire out also. I got a NOVEC SPA system with an automatic discharge bulb and a manual pull to the pin. It has 4 nozzles and is a 10gal not the minimum 5lb. SPAex SFI10 LW-AM this system with steel lines. Paid $865
  22. Hi all, I had listed that I am parting out my CR-X. I am listing the engines, trans, and all associated parts in a separate listing here. If you are going into a Gen1 CR-X or equivalent Civic, you are welcome to keep the mounts and all the axles as well. -New d15b 3 stage VTEC engine, trans, ECU and harness (never installed) From JDM Engine Depot -d15b 3 stage VTEC engine in car from Tennessee JDM (169psi across all cylinders on removal) -D16z6 Trans w/ MFactory helical LSD (no grinding or popping out of gear) Mint -4-2-1 Header -Hasport engine mounts -Hasport hydro to cable -Hasport custom left side axle -Custom shift linkage -Spare right axle (New) -2 spare left side stock axles (New) -Spare clutches, flywheels, starters, alternators, a lot of stuff. All of it for $2200!!
  23. An EC winning car E36 just got posted for sale. It races AER and Champ and I believe has won races with both. Noah Maguire BMW e36 Endurance Car $12,000 Providence, RI If not allowed to post this here please let me know and I’ll remove it, this seems like the place that I’ll most likely find the best home for the car. Unfortunately I’m looking to sell my beloved e36 (The shell is a 1995 M3, but it’s kind of a mutt) endurance race car known as ‘Zora’. It’s run two AER events, Road Atlanta 2018 & NJMP 2018, where at NJ it won first in class on Sunday and second in class for the weekend. Prior to, the car was run in the Chumpcar series in the EC class. The car passed 2018 tech for both series. The car is located in RI, and is obviously not street legal/also will not deliver. I’ll try to be as thorough as possible (but am most likely going to forget some stuff) and if anyone has any questions or would like more pictures I’ll be happy to answer/provide. As for a price I’m putting it up for 12k; if your interested and don’t agree with the asking price let’s talk. I have a decent amount of spares that I’ve acquired that you can rummage through as well and take what you want. Any interested party that would like to talk about price will be heard out if they think it’s off to what the cars worth. Drivetrain: - M52b25 unknown mileage but the person I bought it off claimed it had been rebuilt. I regasketed the entire engine at the beginning of the year and it is very clean inside. I also rebuilt the VANOS at the same time as well. M50 intake manifold with PCV delete/catch can that has a drain back to the pan. Achilles Motorsports oil pan baffle and welded oil pump nut on. Traction control delete boot and K&N intake assembly. Manzo headers that go into a single 3” exhaust. Kassel Performance “ultimate swap DME” and I had him lower the redline to 6,800rpm. All electronic components have been replaced with new OEM replacements. Cooling system completely replaced at the beginning of the year with all upgraded parts (thermostat housing, water pump pulley, and metal impeller WP), Mishimoto Aluminum radiator, and yes it still has a functioning clutch fan setup that I’ve never had any issues with whatsoever. Revshift poly engine mounts replaced at the beginning of the year. S52 oil filter housing with Rally Road cooler adapter to a 36 row oil cooler. Engine oil and filter have always been changed after every event with Redline 50wt race oil and their break in additive - ZF transmission with about 140,000 miles on it, shifts well and still has a functioning 5th gear detent. Rebuilt shifter assembly with Garagistic upgrade kit and DSSR. Also has an X5 3.0 shift selector which has a nice throw and is taller/ more angled. Guibo changed at the beginning of the year and also replaced poly trans mounts at the same time. Fluid changed with Redline after every event - 3.91 LSD with Rogue finned cover. Turner aluminum diff bushing kit. Redline fluid changed after every event - Duel fuel pump setup in tank and custom vent with stock venting system removed Suspension - Ground Control coilovers with 450# front/ 550# rear springs, single adjustable Konis, and front Camber/Caster plates - All suspension components are from an OBD2 M3 (subframes, trailing arms, control arms, etc.) - Turner M3 sway bar set with rear adjustable endlinks and OE front endlinks used instead of the TMS front links (we like to utilize curbs and they tend to last longer than Heims). Rear sway bar tabs have been reinforced - Condor offset delrin control arm bushings - Trailing arm pockets have been reinforced and since it’s an M3 the subframe mounts came reinforced from the factory - Turner trailing arm spherical joints, Turner aluminum subframe bushings, Turner upper inner spherical joints, and Eibach adjustable lower control arms - I have (6) TR Motorsport wheels all 17x8.5 et40 and Toyo R1R 245/40r17 tires still with decent amounts of tread Brakes: - M3 brake components all around (rotors, calipers, etc.) - Centric Cryo rotors, Hawk HT-10 pads, BimmerWorld front cooling duct/backing plate kit, Eeuroparts brass caliper slide pin kit, and Powerstop stainless brake lines - ABS has been deleted, if I was keeping it I planned to put in a stand-alone MK60 ABS unit from an e46 M3 in it Body: - The shell is very clean and rust free. It used to be a multitude of colors as it was put together from a few different cars, so I painted it a multitude of colors but in the shape of a polka dot livery. The paint job was done using Montana Gold graffiti spray cans and it looks really good actually. The passenger rear quarter panel is pushed in a little from a car driving into us at NJ in the rain; it could be fixed pretty easily but it never really bothered me (the paint job hides it very well) - Even though it’s an M3, it’s equip with the body kit of an OBD2 328is (bumpers, skirts, & mirrors). It has a custom front lip and fender vents - The spare tirewell was cut out to accept a fuel cell, but one hasn’t been put in. The floors been covered in diamond plated aluminum and the batter now resides on the passenger side (properly secured and boxed). The open floor looking through to the diff makes it look mean Interior/ Safety: - Sparco Pro ADV seat good til 2021, OMP six point belts good til 2021, G-Force window and center nets SFI spec 27.1, and Lifeline fire system - VAC machined floor brackets and seat side brackets, stock dash has been flocked, wink mirror and spot mirrors, AJ Hartman carbon center panel, BimmerWorld window defrost kit, and long acre push to start panel with accessory switches - Wiring harness has been gone though and all the useless stuff has been removed - The roll cage was put in when the car was raced in the 2000s. It’s structurally good and has all the required bars, it’s just not the prettiest cage out there
  24. If you need belts, get these!! I have HRX belts in my car now and they are really nice. The issue is, they are not easy to adjust, and they are the pull up type. My old were G-Force and they were pull down. Very difficult to adjust. I drove in a car with these belts recently. WOW, they are so easy for the driver to adjust themselves while in the seat!
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