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wd6681 last won the day on September 12 2019

wd6681 had the most liked content!

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  1. My question is more relevant to my tow rig, or should I ever race a newer car. I am a loyal user of NGK copper plugs in everything. My vibe is the performance world agrees. My question pertains to using them in a modern vehicle. Other than shorter than OEM service life, what is everyone's experience with 'going backwards' and using copper plugs in a platinum or iridium OE application? I ran copper plugs in an LS with great success years ago. Wondering if anyone else has more experience with other COP systems. Thankyou
  2. Are referring to the v720 as there is not an acr version of the v730. I am also assuming there is a difference between the v720 and v730
  3. Anyone run them yet?
  4. Bigger front bar and less rear bump damping
  5. Older atfs are around the viscosity of 20w motor oil and newer atfs are thinner. For thin gearbox applications I have had luck with shell sprirax gxme
  6. Looks like factory fill was likely atf, so you will need something thin like 70w80 (example shell sprirax gxme), amsoil is another. Or just a dex 3 atf
  7. Anything marketed as an MTF will work well. Typically gl4, viscosities like 70w80 through 80w90 with most being 75w90. Not going to get into the branded thing... Just that it's easy to pay too much
  8. Heavier cars are usually also physically larger. More aero surface area to generate downforce. Think modern f1 cars, huge compared to the v8 v10 cars
  9. Right, what I mean to say is that the turbo could be experiencing starvation while the engine is not. I am told this is the primary advantage to a ball bearing turbo, it is more tolerant to oiling shortages.
  10. I wonder how many turbo failures come down to oil starving. I can imagine that in high g cornering it could be one of the first places to go away and or foaming/bubbles to show up. Those that have had turbo troubles ever consider installing an oil pressure gauge or logger in the turbo oil feed line?
  11. It would be really interesting to see what part cones from rolling resistance and what comes from temperature window. Naturally they go hand in hand as well as that rolling resistance energy goes into heat. Very interesting! Any idea if they were quoting best lap times or average?
  12. The 245 rt660 sounds promising. I would also consider a toyo r1r 225 on a 15x9. Many complain about wear, I agree about the first 3-4 32nds but following that wear is good. No where near a rs-4 but considerably better than a re71r. Clearly they would respond well to shaving (never tried it). The 225 on a 15x8 feels a bit like a bias ply, I feel the 15x9 would help a lot. They also have a flat tread like an rs-4 unlike the arched tread of an re71r. Hopefully that means little setup change. I have a cut section of re71r and r1r if you want some pictures. Summary is the r1r has harder sideway and
  13. My intention is not to dispell anything. Just bring some science to this; before the club takes away liberties based on what at this point is an opinion rather than multiple sources demonstrating a measurable difference in average speed. Generic seconds per lap cannot be taken seriously. We race on tracks that take a little over a minute to circulate and tracks that take well over 2 minutes. Average speed is the best way to compare. Based on your collecting of data I am pretty sure you probably can access some form of average such as average of green laps for 1 driver. Excited to ge
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