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wd6681

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Everything posted by wd6681

  1. Are you certain it is burning and not leaking? I have heard of nightmares with the front cover on those motors. Because it is leaking greatest at high engine speed keep in mind it may not show up like a drip as that means you are likely moving fast when it leaks. It's German so of course it leaves spots when you pit, but how significant. You might want to run a test and run a mineral oil for a bit and see if oil loss goes away or slows down.
  2. Per the rules it is my understanding that a mr2 swap would have to start from a MR2 turbo @300 points. Yes tbe VPI is 200 but turbo cars add 100 points. See section 4.5 from rules. Vehicles must use the highest valued model from its generation (i.e., – E30s would use the 325i as the starting point).
  3. =) You mean the 3% of race participants who post on the form aren't tech?
  4. This still is not applied standard. The rules give the exact example of a E30 318 as the basis of a swap must be considered a 325i. When yet even a 318is has not only a different motor but different transmission, driveshaft, differential. I do not mean to argue against anyones swap formulation because again, the rule has more holes in it than Swiss cheese. Chumpcar opened the can of worms with swaps but asks us to self enforce the rules which everyone interpret differently.
  5. I see this rule as only being applied to BMWs. For example if this rule were applied in the same manner to Honda's for instance; the cars with a b20 or k20 swap, aero, coilovers, adjustable control arms would blow the 500 point rule out the the water. Perhaps the wording could be more clear or actually enforced?
  6. Big car carriers and shiny race cars do nothing to uneven the field. The discrepancy in funding did not even determine speed of F1 through the 70s. Lotus, McLaren, Williams, they all were small British businessmen; then compare them to the likes of Ferrari. All that being said, @ chumpcar I have seen rule interpretation that would make Colin Chapman blush.
  7. I am surprised to hear you guys ran ABS and effectively. Running behind you guys I have seen a rear wheel come up often. Basically you could not trail brake then?
  8. Do you add any sort of restriction or no t-stat in housing? Your flat out racing temps probably still end up similar to ours?
  9. Right, I understand viscosity is most relevant; more so the HTHS viscosity as a high viscosity Index oil will loose less viscosity in the important 100c-150c range. Before I chanced my junk I wanted to see if anyone else had done it on theirs. My primary concern is the loss of viscosity from temp and mechanical shearing over hours of racing. As you can see from the two oil analysis that both oils lost at least 2-3 cst @ 100c compared to their published figures. This was my reasoning behind a 15W40 or straight 40wt because they typically show no shear due to them usually having fewer VI improvers. Thank-you for all the insight on probe location. I will be interested in a few changes in terms of operating temperature. Does everyone with an E30 run a thermostat? Standard temp? 'Huggys' data looks like either no T-stat or at least a lower temp.
  10. Right, I know my clearances. The problem I face is that BMW suggests a 50wt and oil companies suggest a 30wt at said clearances.
  11. Wow, your water is cold! Do you not run a thermostat? Your oil temp is close to what I had been measuring at the switch port. I find it interesting that the highest oil pressure you see is 65psi but it clearly is generated from the pressure regulator based on how it is reaching that pressure before peak rpm and how consistently it is reaching the same psi. Could your pressure relief spring be adjusted differently? Or do you think this is irregularity between one of our measuring devices?
  12. So you would suggest temp @ near the filter rather than sump? I am excited to try some new setups next spring.
  13. Has anyone run a 30wt in a Chump/ endurance BMW? The fast specE30 cars seem to run a 30wt. I am just concerned that over 7, 14, or 24 hours it would shear too thin. But again I know of Honda's and miatas that on paper are much tougher on their oil that run a 30wt @ chump.
  14. That makes more sense now since it is at the end of the galley so it does not have oil flowing through/by it but just too it. That also makes sense with oil pressure too, I believe I am getting good 'signal' from my pressure but should relocate my temp probe. Your pressures likely read lower than mine because it is in or near the largest open volume in the pressurized portion of the oil circuit. I will grab a photo sometime but retail at Christmas is BUSY. Is it Valvoline synthetic vr1 or normal street synthetic?
  15. Hmm maybe I am getting a little forgetful, maybe I do 6 quarts. It is basically stock plus one quart; dipstick reads a pinch over full mark. It probably adds only a pint but I have removed the level sending unit on the driver's side of the pan. Not that I completely know but what makes the area I am measuring low flow? It looks to be right off of the main oil galley that runs front to back on the block. I had a vdo sender leak between the plastic and metal part of the body and the flow was fairly considerable. I think I am going to make a temp probe that sits in the oil sump where that level sender used to be.
  16. Also to the contrary, could reading oil @ a sandwich plate or @ the adaptor/filter or tapping the adaptor bolt get heat soak from being right under the exhaust manifold? Without a question the oil is hotter when it is being wedged through rod, main, and cam bearings. But that should also indicate that pan oil temps should be the most accurate measurement as that oil is the largest mass and was the most recent to be pushed through the circuit. The oil has however had time to cool from running down the block/bitch tube and cooling in the pan. Spec E30 racers without skid plates usually report around a 190 sump temp. The oil temps you guys are reading is oil that has just been picked up from the pump;do you really think the pumping action is adding 50-60 degrees?
  17. StepBrothers. We run in North East like WGI but mostly Canada. I wonder if my temperature is low because of the location of my sensor. I believe the stock switch port is a small chamber off of the main oil galley. Because so much water is flowing through this area I wonder if the oil is cooling compared to where it sounds like you guys are measuring which has just been lifted from the sump.
  18. I guess If it is any merrit, the vdo sender and gauges are matched. There have been 2 senders on it and both have read the same.
  19. VDO sender and gauges. Although have never tested others for a factory error.
  20. Yes my temp and pressure are measured at the stock switch port not at the filter housing. Without a cooler I just run an ETA setup with the stock Mann or Mahle filter on the block with the thread in bung from an ETA. Where do you measure your temp? Why is it so much higher?
  21. I hope my data will be helpful to some and encourage others to share scientific data and perhaps answer some of my questions. I have run various oils in Our M20B25 power E30 and analyzed their performance with the following measuring sticks. -Oil analysis from Blackstone -Oil Pressure Gauge -Oil Temperature Gauge Please note the following: We have not experienced engine failure due to oil. All Data and questions I will pose is only related to HOT TEMP AND HOT PRESSURE. We have run the following oils: Castrol GTX 20W50 Valvoline VR1 20W50 Mobil 15W50 Pennzoil 25W50 Chevron Delo 15W40 Valvoline VR1 40wt I only have UOA analysis for the Castrol 20W50 and Mobil 15W50. The GTX 20W50 is non scientific as it was a high milage motor that then lost a rod bearing. The Mobil is a motor that we have since lost to overheating. It was a rebuilt motor and am curious if the high iron is attributed to an engine still breaking in? Or simply racing? Our water Temp is measured @ the thermostat housing and always reads below 205* with the exception of failure. Typically the car runs around 190* when it is running at its fastest; 205* figure is seen when there is traffic and reduced airflow. The oil temp Simply DOES NOT GO OVER 200*. Typically they are around 180*. For the 2017 season we removed the Stock oil cooler and have seen no increase in temps. Oil Pressure with a 50wt pegs 80psi (pressure relief is 80-85) by 3400-3600RPM Oil pressure with a 40wt pegs 80psi by 4200-4500 Our Pressure and temperature are both measured at the location of the factory oil pressure switch on an M20. My questions are, Why does everyone struggle with oil temperature so much? Are my temperatures sound because of the high capacity of oil (overfill to 7qt) supporting a relatively low taxed motor by modern standards? Or are my temperatures low because of where it is measured? For example sump temperatures are higher? My oil pressure leads me to believe I can continue to go down in viscosity as the motor produces well more than 10psi per 1000RPM. Rod and main tolerances are @ factory spec which rule of thumb would put us @ a 30wt but BMW calls for 20W50. Meanwhile I recently raced a Miata to find out that Miatas peak oil pressure is approximately 50-55psi. That means that a motor that makes more HP per liter on smaller rod bearings produces LESS than 10psi per 1000RPM. Please everyone keep their opinions as scientific as possible with oil wt temp, pressure, and HRs it has worked.
  22. I do not see a reason to drive a FWD BMW. The only thing you know is everything will be more expensive. If you must stay wrong wheel drive, why not something like a Cobalt? You could even remove the key ignition that kills you. Or you could go old school GM and get an olds or Beretta with a Quad4. Best thing is you could find a roundy round car of any of the above already built. Just add windshield and lexan.
  23. I also yanked this from a forum --Dragging this back from the dead because I had the same problem and fixed it. I rebuilt my T5 (1990 305 model, WC) which included replacing the 5th gear brass syncro. yes there is one. Freshly rebuilt it would grind going into 5th over 2000 rpm. I discussed the problem with two transmission shops and they both told me the same thing, the cone the brass syncro ring runs against on the 5th gear needs to be "prepped" when rebuilding. It becomes highly polished over time and the syncro will no longer grab on it. One shop said to use 120 grit emery paper and the other said to use 600 grit emery paper. I took mine back apart and rubbed 320 grit emery paper across the face of the cone to remove the shine, replaced the brass syncro ring just in case, and reassembled it. Now it works great no grinding at all--
  24. Shot in the dark but try 80w90 gl4 gear oil mixed with Pennzoil/gm synchromesh to get your desired viscosity. I run 1:3 synchromesh and 2:3 gl4 stalube 80w90. The NV4500 for example is very sensitive to the fluid you put in it, so there may still be yet hope to get it working with yet another fluid change
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