Chris Huggins

Never used those, but I have had good luck with my local hydraulic shop (what caters to the construction guys fixing bobcats and track hoes and such) making me all sorts of custom lines and fittings for very affordable prices. I'd be concerned buying anything marketed as "race hose" - I just read that as "normal hose with a 50% markup"

That was discussed at the BOD meeting and was an unintentional issue resolving from the way the CSV files work in the backend of the website. It should be resolved now - if it is not please email me and I will work to correct it. We are also working to understand why this system keeps resulting in accidental errors. We want to improve the process going forward. Sorry for the confusion Chris

You removed the online VPI Lookup tool, correct? The Online Swap Calculator is still present and generating results.

Wait, are you saying the VPI list and/or online calculator is actively changing as of yesterday?

Order yourself a couple and we can add them to the panel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H232JZB/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_-xlaGbSP9M6S3

Which Team/Car? How much ($, Time, etc)

4 wins and a DNS so not sure 246 qualifies. 146 was 6,2,2,3,2,2,3, poor girl is always the bridesmaid never the bride

I cant wait to tell my sponsors we finished 6th! Why did you finish 6th chris? Well, because we chose Pinkies Out as a team name instead of AAA1 Pinkies Out Racing On a serious note, Congrats to everyone who qualified for Road America.

This seems like your simplest solution, depending on exact dimensions. Door Bar Rules on gaps and placement: A - The Upper and Lower "door bar" must have at least 6 inches of separation at the CENTERLINE of the tubing. (thats 4.25 between bars for 1.75" tubing, if you want to cut a piece of 2x4 for a check) B - The upper door bar must not be higher than the bottom of the drivers window opening C - The lower edge of the upper door bar must not be higher than 10" from the door sill or the floor pan, whichever is higher, at any point along its length. In

Skateboard grip tape is my recommendation. Lasts a LONG time and is very cheap and easy to apply. This exact stuff is in both my cars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002E0B2BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you build one just keep an eye on the rear suspension. The upper arms like to pull out of the pockets (the spot welds break) - so weld those up nice The toe arms are weak stamped bits - so save some repurposed metal to reinforce them a bit the subframe mounts to the chassis are notoriously bad, plenty of fixes just gotta do it, which involves dropping the suspension and fuel tank.

The number of hours involved to go from P10 to P5 is large. The number of hours involved to go from P5 to P1 is 10x that. Its a logarithmic scale

3d printed wing! I approve of this concept!