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Mopar 4 Life

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Mopar 4 Life last won the day on March 10

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  1. The Mopar short bus arrivesThursday evening. We will most likely find a bar somewhere.
  2. The last year for our neon we had a 1st, 3-2nd place finishes, 1-3rd and a couple of 4ths. Early 2018 our neon got wrecked hard. It had over 100 race weekends on the chassis from all the different races we attended. After the wreck due to metal fatigue our body guy (which is a miracle worker) said it was no longer safe to race the car. We had a 2nd car that now became our primary. We came to the conclusion as a team that the neon was getting near its limit in relation to other newer cars entering the field. Even if the points dropped it could only help so much as engine wise we were near max what we could achieve without the fear of breaking more stuff or replacing parts faster. We decided to run the turbo cruiser for a couple of years and see what car options were available to the team after. Moving away from the neon was not easy, the 1st Gen neons are no longer in junkyards. And I don’t recall the last time I have seen one in the wild. This series has a natural attrition and speed creep built into the rules. Old cars will get older and new cars will almost always be faster.
  3. No, the neon was getting tired and we were taking more chances, and we’re driving more on the limit. We needed a true hardcore, designed from the ground up contender that ticked all the boxes. Naturally the PT turbo cruiser platform was a no brainer.
  4. The .org is good and all. But there a good amount of members who really have no idea what’s going on. The race car mentality is totally lost on them. With the oil stuff. A cooler is nice. But all you really need is baffles in a pan. It can be done yourself. If money is no object see if you can find a moroso/obx 2.0L pan that already has baffles in it. I never ran an accusump. But I have always been 2.4. Redline MT-90 is what we use in our trans. We did not use camber plates. We used stock eccentrics from a caravan. Big beefy bolts for camber adjustment and to free up points. We had a home brew suspension setup from taking off the shelf hyperco springs and using them as lowering springs. We only had sleeves in the rear. Again all this to free up points. We ran a RT/ACR master with booster.
  5. Ok, I will explain more of the points I made. We decided as a team to do a trans swap. The T350HD was already a better choice as the case is stronger and has an updated synchro design. This also means setting the diff preload. The T350HD has slightly better ratio’s. If your lucky you may even find the 4.12 ratio if not 3.91 is it. The T355 is used mainly for parts. It has a updated synchro for the 3/4 cluster. That does not have the issues with shift keys falling out. It’s a carbon synchro and can handle a lot of abuse. This part can’t be bought so you can only find it in yards. The no 90 intake is an easy mod for HP. We took the hit for a intake mani. The best all around intake you can find is an AMM fab intake. The no 90 intake mod can get you most of the way there but we live in a series where you need to maximize points to HP gained. The other key part is the power no longer dies off at 5800-6000. In the later parts we revved out to 6500. Which was a big gain. The stratus head has bigger valves and stock vs PT has a better cam profile. The early 01-02 heads were designed for boost. But with crazy Chrysler ways they put the head on NA cruisers. As if you were buying a NA cruiser you probably weren’t after performance. The stratus head also makes it easier to use the available performance intakes and such. The shifter is a key part for trans longevity. We had the issue a couple of times of our 3/4 shift key falling out of the synchronizer. This is not always due to stretched cables but over extending the shifter lever itself. Let’s say you have a over zealous driver that when heated bangs the gears a little harder than usual. The extra force he puts in can dislodge the shifts key from the synchro. The mad dog shifter reduces the throw with no extra effort but also adds rod breaks which will prevent the over extending of the lever. It’s cheap insurance. The 1/4 hole was already answered above DOHC headers are still easy to come by. The best company is TTI. They used to make a race version with a step mid way but they are no longer made. The next best thing is to take your stock TTi and lop off the dump merge. We purchased a vibrant 4-1 true merge collector. Back to back dyno the merge was good for 5-6 hp. On top of the gains for the header. Two years into our adventure with endurance racing a 2.4 neon (2012). We were losing clutches due to broken pressure plates about every 4-5 races. So we changed them every four races. It was always the same failure. We originally thought it was a clutch issue as the Mopar performance clutch changed mfg’s. So we bought an ACT. Worse mistake ever. The added stiffness of the pressure plate really hurt the internals. We found you couldn’t shift as fast with it. We also still had the same problem but now with breaking $300 flywheels. Fast forward to 2013 PRI. We talked to ACT about our issues and they wanted to see our flywheel. They ruled it was torsional vibrations. Seeing as we had deleted our balance shafts this made the problem even worse. We decided to give an ATI a try. Not cheap, but we could tell a difference right away. Now clutches are lasting almost 12 events, seals, rod bearings are all lasting longer. I don’t say an ATI is a must but if you were going to run a lot of events like we did (6-7 a year) it really helps. Dyno mod list: NA 2.4 Hand porting AMM Fab intake manifold TTi header with custom vibrant merge 3”exhaust stock 2.4 stratus cams ATI damper Balance shaft delete MS3pro Evo ECU w/K coil ignition dynapak dyno
  6. The Mopar 4 Ever Doom cruiser had a fantastic weekend. We had a relatively new group of drivers behind the cruiser. One driver was pretty timid after having a bad wreck at Daytona a year prior ending our neons life. It was glad to have him back on track and get into the groove again. We are still sorting some aspects of the new powertrain and working on some new ideas from race to race and gaining pace each time. I think after EC cars are removed we finished both days in the mid low teens. Class D wins both days was pretty cool. And before anyone asks it’s 2430cc (class C)+ turbo= Class D. Thanks to the staff for the usual fantastically run event. See you at the next one (NCM)
  7. You didn’t even touch the good stuff... -T350HD why? -T355 why? -no 90 intake -why the early stratus head is better than a PT head - why 90% of the time your trans breaks is because of this (shifter) why you need a mad dog - where to drill a 1/4” hole to adjust shift cables - axle sub list - what dohc header is best and how to mod - ATI damper pulley (torsional vibes)
  8. Any prize, if you “de-throne” the track owners time in another modified bus?
  9. What is high hp? I have had no problems so far with RS4’s on our current car
  10. Rob , PT Turbo. your welcome...
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