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karman1970

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karman1970 last won the day on May 16 2020

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  1. I'll say again, love my Hobart. No, it's not the cheapest, but it's lasted well and I've more than gotten it's worth out of it by now. Only when I need a straight-ish/square-ish cut do I pull out the chop saw or cut-off wheels. Have had a couple friends who bought cheapo MIG welders which did fine when they worked. Of course, both had catastrophic failures at inopportune times and replacement parts cost more than buying a new one, if you could get them. I assume plasmas would have similar issues.
  2. You could fab something similar and make it bolt on. I built a sub-frame back in college for my VW to adapt a Triumph front suspension, and it bolts on. Cost maybe 100 bucks.
  3. And you wouldn't even have to do that much if you didn't want to or didn't have the points to spare. With a 10 point subframe you could move mounting points and optimize the geometry while reusing all the factory components.
  4. Something was mentioned about possibly charging extra for swapping in factory turbo motors at one point when the swap rules first came out, but that's not in the rule book anywhere. Last I remember seeing from anyone in charge was "ask tech before you pull the trigger". I guess we got a nice little list to bug them with after the holidays!
  5. Ask the E30 BMW guys how that works, haha. That's why that line about using the highest valued model for swaps exists. Also, if you put a 280ZXT engine in a 280ZX, you just created a 280ZXT - platform swap rule. Furthermore, ask tech or the race director if that will fly when you show up to a race. My guess is no. Then again, the Porsche 944 crowd seems to have pulled it off...
  6. 50 points for an engine swap. 100 points to add/upgrade a turbo. You don't get to pick a bigger turbo for free. Swap in an NA motor and add a turbo - 150 pts minimum. Swap in a turbocharged engine and then change turbos - 150 points minimum. BTW @QuaTTro, you might need an intercooler upgrade with the 1.8T as well. The factory one in the B5s is a dinky little side mount unit. I don't know for certain, but I imagine with the extra boost and endurance racing you'll probably need to upgrade.
  7. Someone who deals with this stuff for a living can feel free to correct me, but here goes... In theory, no it doesn't really matter because you could just crank up the boost until you reach the power you want. But the same then applies to the "stone age" 2.3, too. In reality, you are limited by detonation with pump gas. If they both make the same hp per cubic inch normally aspirated, the 1.8 will always require more boost to make the same power as the 2.3L. Easiest way to make more power under boost is to make more power normally aspirated. And the easiest way to do
  8. I've had a 1.8T B5 Passat for almost 20 years. I love it, it's a fantastic street car. I don't know how good that engine is in a race application, though. Makes boost off idle and it's shorter and lighter than the 5 cyl engines, but it seems to run out of breath past about 5000-5500rpm. I've read that swapping to a tubular exhaust manifold will really help the top end. It's the 150hp version. I know you can crank the boost up on them to ~200-210. I don't know if the later 180hp motors are better. If I didn't like it so much, I'd turn mine into a racecar. If the interior keeps falling
  9. Congrats! BTW, my math says the new swap weight bumps you up from 55 to 60 points, depending on how the calculator rounds. So not as much as I guessed.
  10. I'm from that great nowhere in between the coasts And not trolling, I don't follow every race. It was a legitimate question.
  11. You think something like that would be in the rulebook wouldn't ya? I would guess around 70-75 points without crunching the numbers. Real question is, why did the swap weight get adjusted down? Why the swap weight and not the VPI? When is the last time a 240SX won anything, swapped or not?
  12. The old Volvo redblocks, even with moderate boost are supposed to be virtually indestructible. But I don't know of anyone running one. I heard there was a 924 Turbo running out on the west coast many years ago. I think cooling and oiling is still the biggest hindrance, followed by fuel.
  13. It's not the end all, be all. But yeah, it's pretty important because it's the one thing you can't really change once you settle on a car. You can go up two gallons over stock if you install a fuel cell, that's it. That said, if you can actually get a CRX down to sub-1500 lbs with fuel and ready to race, then fuel capacity won't be much concern. Might not be able to go a full 2 hours running maximum pace, but with the power:weight you'll have you should be able to back off if you need to conserve fuel and still turn really good lap times. If I was a CRX owner, the main thing I'
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