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Roscoedog

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  1. A good general rule of thumb is one cranking amp per cubic inch of engine displacement. I have found that this is almost always sufficient for stock compression engines when the temperature is above freezing. Some vehicles are more prone than others to heat soaking the starter which makes hot restarts more difficult and may require higher cranking capacity. We ran a $25 300 cold cranking amp garden tractor battery before Optima started supporting the series, and had zero issues starting our 2.4 liter 4 banger even at temperatures below freezing. I believe it was around 20 pounds lighter than t
  2. A good general rule of thumb is one cranking amp per cubic inch of engine displacement. I have found that this is almost always sufficient for stock compression engines when the temperature is above freezing. Some vehicles are more prone than others to heat soaking the starter which makes hot restarts more difficult and may require higher cranking capacity. We ran a $25 300 cold cranking amp garden tractor battery before Optima started supporting the series, and had zero issues starting our 2.4 liter 4 banger even at temperatures below freezing. I believe it was around 20 pounds lighter
  3. I think those frame rails aren't welded in yet, just laying on their sides on top of the crossmembers. They definitely aren't fully welded at the joints yet.
  4. Engine Oil: Mobil1 0W40 Transaxle: Mobil1 High Mileage 10W30 Brake Fluid: Wagner DOT5.1 Cooling System: Redline Water Wetter
  5. You could sell your Koni blacks and run a set of non-adjustable Koni STR.T struts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/KONI-STR-T-Street-Shocks-Set-DODGE-NEON-95-99-/300803245340?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ANeon&hash=item460945451c&vxp=mtr#ht_1184wt_896 I would assume these fall under  Non-OE replacement shock absorber or strut: $25/corner, and the price isn't too outrageous.
  6. I'm for free optional replacement if installed as OEM.
  7. Our Neon's oil temps hit 300+ on track. We run high quality synthetic oil and have no problems at this temperature. I change the oil and do a filter cut after every race.
  8. I purchased this quick release from Speedway Motors quite a while ago. www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Quick-Release-Steering-Wheel-Hub-and-Accessories,1380.html?parentDisplayId=14834 There is noticable lash/slop between the hub and adaptor. Is this going to be an issue on track? Anybody have a recommendation for nice tight adaptor at a reasonable price?
  9. I've read through the FWD racing guide a couple of times now and I think it was $20 well spent. The writing is clear, concise, easy to read and understand. I'd definitely recommend it. Plenty of tips applicable to any FWD car, and a must have for anybody planning a VW build.
  10. I should have been more specific. Does anybody have experience with a welded diff and power steering delete in a front wheel drive application?
  11. This is something I have wondered about as well. I have heard that it isn't usually a problem, but what about with a welded or locked differential? Does anybody have experience with a welded diff and deleted power steering?
  12. I wasn't looking for a way to circumvent the rules, just asking for a clarification of what is and isn't normally accepted. As for the parts I asked about being specifically addressed in the rules, Do they all fall under the catch-all of "operation critical components" from 5.3.3. or "other parts" from 5.2.3.? because I did read the rules multiple times and I don't see any of them directly addressed and still don't know if I'm allowed to replace my timing belt with a new one or if that will add to the percieved value of my car. Since I apparently caught your attention, could you address my
  13. Why? If the junkyard wants $45 for a steering knuckle, what is the differenct if they are from a 59 Packard or a 2010 Mustang? (the knuckles I have in mind are from a 2001 model) I will gain no performance advantage from installing heavier knuckles that use heavier bearings and hubs and heavier axles. Road racing Neons have been known to break front hubs with very unpleaseant consequences. (Mopar performance released a special thicker ACR hub to prevent the problem, but they are expensive and hard to come by, and even they were supposed to be replaced after 12 hours of racing.) I want to do
  14. OK, I get the $500 value vs. cost to buy/build. But what I haven't seen addressed in the rules or forum is how various repairs and modifications effect the percieved value of a car come tech time. Specifically, if I replace items for durability (radiator hoses,clamps,timing belt, & tie rod ends come to mind) does this really change the value of the car? A beat up piece of crap with a few new parts is still a beat up piece of crap right? Or, do I need to scrounge the junkyard for good used examples to fall within the spirit of the rules? What about consumable items like fluids,filters, an
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