RVA Graphics & Wraps

But of course

Doh

Are the pit assignments in an email?

Nope, plain ol V8.

Apologies as I read the post while chatting with someone here at the office and missed the whole choice of leaving it an auto or swapping in a manual for points.. I would probably pick running the slush box and competing for a spot, we ran an auto Mercedes years ago in Lemons and while a completely different experience, it was fun.

Run EC, stay clean and clear of those vying for a podium spot and you should be fine.

You are correct, we did not produce/provide the Maxxis decals.

The challenge is choosing a material that stays put in 100+mph rain, but doesn't pull the paint off when removing. As such, we chose a 3M material that has decent adhesion, but is classified as temporary, therefore less likely to pull paint off , etc. If they are applied to a clean/dry factory finish, they will stay on during the races, but can be removed after the season without pulling paint. If they are put on over a rattle-can or a paint roller paint job, then they can/will remove some paint when removed, we found our the hard way on our car when we first decided to wrap it. Those hours I spent applying Rustoleum were for naught as that paint pulled right off when affixing decals. Also if the decals are hastily applied last minute in the rain to make the drop of the green flag, they tend not to do as well. I am intrigued by the magnetic board suggestion, but I would hate to be black flagged if my number panel fell off. Maybe we could try some during the next race(s) along with the standard panels and see how they do. Justin

Less posting more buffing......😉

Proof that regardless of topic, a little shade can be thrown.

That look like an interesting option. I wonder how it would hold up to the higher temps of the brake caliper?

Excellent Leroy Jenkins reference!

I agree on giving the faster a little more grunt. I am usually the one on the team that is called into action to free a stuck faster, or make sure what we put on is as tight as it can be. Regarding lights, the link below is what we have been buying from Amazon. Works perfectly if all of your numbers are straight, like 111, not so much on anything else. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71HYaVR4-6L._SL1001_.jpg We bought some of these12V LED rope type lights as well, which turned out to be junk. The flickered for a few minutes than went out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WRWJH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If anyone finds a good flexible light tape I would be interested as well. Justin

Morning fellow Champs. We had 3 of the four caliper bolts decide they liked Daytona so much that they removed themselves from the calipers while on track. Our guy swears hey used loctite during re-assembly. We are wondering if anyone has any experience/suggestions on wether we should switch to a high temp thread locker, or what they use to make sure things stay fastened. Thanks in advance for any advice. Justin

http://www.pci-racing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/SLIDER-KIT-5-456x337.jpg We have this slider in two cars and it works quite well. We go from 6'5" to 5'4" and combined with a back support that can be adjusted during driver changes, it provides a solid base from which to wheel.