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  1. Do I need to let him know in advance via email or is it sufficient to let him know on race day?
  2. We checked had the alignment done just before the race, and if I remember correctly we ran 35 psi or 36 psi hot in the front and 34 psi in the rear. We actually aren't getting any understeer. Some of the wear can likely be attributed to the fact that this was a July race in Houston, and the trace surface temperatures were around 120 degrees.
  3. The Z3's have been the best ones we've run so far. We ran the Maxxis on Saturday (see the pics above) at MSR in July and the Z3's on Sunday. The Z3's held up better and had more grip. The 615k+ seemed to wear quite a bit faster than the Z3's as well.
  4. The front wheel bearings haven't been replace in a while, so that might be a good place to start. We've seen a similar wear pattern at Harris Hill and MSR Houston on both Dunlop Z3's, 615k+'s and Maxxis VR-1s. I'm pretty sure that the second from the bottom tire came off of the front left. These tires (Maxxis 205/55/16) had about 7 hours of track time on them at MSR Houston in July.
  5. We have a 225/50/16 tire on a 16x7 wheel. Also, the front right tire doesn't have the same inside wear that the front left has, it's wearing more on the outside edge.
  6. Over the last couple of races, I've noticed that the left front tire on our e46 is wearing a little funny. The inside 2/3rds of the tire is wearing faster than the outside 1/3. We are also seeing faster wear on the outside shoulder of the tire. Does anyone have any have any idea of what we can do to correct this?
  7. Saturday : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SB_ZqsdJhs0 Sunday: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek8LaYw6LTI
  8. If anyone needs block ice for their CoolShirt boxes, Sweeny Ice Company will deliver to the track and is very reasonably priced. He'll be delivering ice to my team on Friday. You can find his contact info here: https://www.facebook.com/Sweeny-Ice-Co-2-1451987555097926/ https://sweenyiceco2.business.site/
  9. Shots Fired Racing https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcsCpGskIzCNKK77DPWy5ww
  10. I used this switch in my e46. http://www.jegs.com/i/QuickCar-Racing/635/55-005/10002/-1 There are 2 wires that run off of the battery, one that goes to the alternator and starter, and one that goes to all of the other electronics. I connected one pole to the starter/alternator wire, and the other pole to all of the other electronics.
  11. You can flash the ECU to remove the immobilizer. You'll also need to modify the lock cylinder to remove the steering wheel lock. Here's some information on flashing the ECU (assuming you are running a 323 or 328). https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=17272418 This tool is the easiest tool to flash your ecu with. https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1173905 Once you flash the ECU, you'll need to connect the 2 starter wires on the EWS module connector. Removing the steering wheel lock: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=963009 PM me if you'd like the rom file I use on my ecu in my car (use at your own risk).
  12. I bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/8 of UV protected polycarbonate from Regal Plastics a couple months ago for around $100. I picked up the 1/8" aluminum flat bar for the rear window from Metals4U in Pflugerville. Their metal prices are substantially less than Home Depot's. I used plastic specific jig saw blades and drill bits to cut and drill the holes.
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