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IPF Racing

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  1. I run 3 fuel pumps off the cop setup (1 per switch) without relays so thats 10amp draw each. I actually replaced one switch with a momentary and run that straight to the starter solenoid without a relay... I used to have cheap switches to relays which never failed but the cop setup is just simpler.
  2. Haha thats why I said I was still working on it. Otherwise you turn the car off everytime you shift into 5th
  3. Im still changing this area of the car, but if you're looking for well priced reliable switches these seem to be working great. They are a Whelan switch box out of a cop car that are high amp rated (25amps) so I only have like 2 relays in the whole car.
  4. Since I didn't take a picture, I through this together real quick. Hopefully this can clear up questions people have about the routing.
  5. It sure does if you use 2 of the flow meters like I am. Their system is already set up for it and the computing is all done in the gauge itself and it has a couple warning features and what not too. If you're interested in a system, feel free to send me a message and I can get you their contact info or field questions.
  6. Sorry I haven't posted a video yet, I've been prepping for a dyno session this weekend. I do have the system installed and its working pretty well. I did a full tank pump out and the numbers match up. There are two modes I can see being used during a race. 1) "Fuel Used" which is just a running meter that continually adds up the amount of fuel being used (from just one meter or the difference of the two meters), the only problem with this mode is it resets to zero if it loses power which only becomes an issue if the car dies on track. 2) "Fuel Remaining" this is where you have to hold down a button to increase the amount of fuel remaining in the tank, or if you preset your tank size you can hold down a button and it will jump to that value (probably the most effective way to use this system during a pit-stop). The advantage of mode 2 is that its held in memory even when the car is turned off, which is useful if the car dies on track or even when you haven't been working on the car for a while and want to know how much fuel is left. Here is a pic of my gauge installed. I'll try to get some install pictures of the meters if I have time this weekend, but following the directions is extremely easy and all of the wiring for the meters is already provided (assuming the leads are long enough). The hardest part is trying to make sure you have some straight line coming into and out of each line for a better readings.
  7. The seals and o rings actually look fine. I could still actuate it back and forth just fine. There is a chamfer at the end of the shaft so maybe since it was over extended it was forced past the o ring at the chamfer. These ones are really cheap and I have spares, I'm not even sure you can buy replacement o rings, but I'll check anyway!
  8. Looks like I never checked the gap when I switched from a different slave cylinder setup. See pic for how far off the gap is....
  9. Thanks, it would've taken me forever to think of that. The Supra already has one on the stock pedal so I'll just need to properly adjust it and hopefully all our problems will be solved.....
  10. Ouch! luckily I've gotten everything setup so that I can pull the trans in ~15 minutes even while on jack stands at the track....
  11. I threw another one on already so before the trans goes back in, I'm going to confirm all my measurements from last time. I don't have a clutch pedal stop so maybe thats part of the problem. Ill have to look into adding one.
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