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Wittenauer Racing

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Wittenauer Racing last won the day on May 21 2018

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  1. He's referring to the bulkhead rules. If it's all in the trunk and blocked off from the driver, you're good. Many teams were mounting their filler on the B or C Pillar and had clear line run from there down to the fuel cell positioned in a way that it (and therefore level) could be seen without opening anything. Until this year there wasn't a rule against that, and to my knowledge no issues arose from it, but we now require all soft lines (including braided stainless) to be enclosed/firewalled from the driver compartment.
  2. At home before you load and again at the end of each day- Jack up each corner one at at a time and give the wheel a good shake. Up/down, front/back, in/out, then spin the wheel and check it rotates smoothly. Next have a team member step on the brake pedal and try it all again. We also like to take the wheels off at the end of the day and give it all a good visual once-over, make sure to check brakepad thickness while you're there. Overall sounds like you have most of it. If you go digital, set up a gmail account for the team, install google drive on the computer and set up your racing folder to sync with the cloud as a just in case. Anything you can automate, do so.
  3. Yea, I'm really glad we've been taking detailed pictures so far on the new build. Based on my past experiences with tech they'll work with you pretty well, so I don't think it will give too many teams huge headaches, but it's one more thing to watch closely on buying a used Champcar.
  4. Did anyone else get a chance to look at this yet? I like the effort/intent behind it, but as for the content, some of these are different than what has been clarified previously: Air dam/splitter doesn't discuss anything about where on the bumper (it's back to "vertical surface") Handtools rule is sort of back? My understanding is these are now/already being enforced? Any others folks have seen so far this year? We're still early on in the build of our new car (trying to be done for Gingerman) and want to make sure we get all this stuff right the first go-around.
  5. I think one thing that keeps getting glossed over is the speed difference of tires now vs 5-10 years ago. Given the same size tire on the same car, same day, same driver an RS4 is what? 3 seconds a lap? faster than an RS3, and sticks around longer when pushing it? Yes as a series we're putting wider and wider tires on and more and more aero, and that does accelerate the speed creep, but even just the skillset that some teams have learned (crash kits, spares, logistics, strategy, etc) have made the series faster too. Put any top 5 team in a mid-pack car and they can run towards the front, and that's part of what I love so much about this series.
  6. Buy your stock of "1999" model 4.8L silverado motors now if you havent already.... From a breif skim, an early to mid 90s ranger just got more interesting. Would be curious to see a swapped 535 E34 as well....
  7. So you're seeing that with the Carbotech RP2? RP2 and fixed Wilwood calipers on cheap Mustang rotors here, nothing nearly as violent as anyone in this thread suggests, but we have been having wheel bearing failures. We've never bothered to measure brake temps, quite frankly we assumed we were on the cold side. Normally the shake starts then we start to brake a bit earlier and drive it more like a momentum car. Would make sense that the shake and wheel bearing failures are linked....
  8. Biggest thing I learned- Turn on spot metering if you put the camera inside. As for camera mounting/camera angles, the harness bar is pretty good. We've also used the gopro elastic "chest strap" to attach to the passenger seat thru the shoulder seat belt pass-through openings with good results (helps with stabilization too). GoPro specific notes: We use the solid back cover. Racecars are loud so it picks up well, but does make the audio a bit muddy. Way better than the wind noise of open covers though. Use a screwdriver and actually tighten the GoPro mounting bracket flex joints. The thumb screws do fine to get snugged up and aimed correctly, but unless you really crank that stuff down it will move...
  9. Exactly, it doesn't. That's where @Jer's original point is coming from. Article: Speedhive (the official AMB/Mylaps system) shows it as well, and unless I have a weird setting on my account, does not show class on the main screen either. Not knowing the series as well as those of us here do, it's a pretty open/shut deal for most people. Salt won, followed by KSR. The T&S site and web articles agree. To figure out that Salt and KSR are EC, I either A- have to know they are EC, or B- go to the "results by class screen", write down/print out who they are, then come back to the "All results" screen and start crossing people out....
  10. Finishing is our target this year (same as last) but we've already put in for the time off work!
  11. Yep, have to agree with Ray here, hardlines take some time and a few beers, but some good planning will take you a long way. I picked up this kit mainly for the fittings when I did my Mini. Some series require steel brake lines (not the nickel-copper easy bend stuff), but currently it's not a Champcar requirement from a quick ctrl+F of the rule book for "line" and "brake" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/urr-br-ez316/overview/ Get a good flaring tool (my next investment) and a good bender and should be good to go. I did a good bit of my lines by getting the 60" long pre-made lines from the parts store, connecting one end where it needed to go, then bending from there to the next point. Then mark, cut, PUT ON THE FITTING, then flare if it was too long. Use the other end for somewhere else. Next time I do it I will use flex for runs under 10" (like proportioning valve to master) as the short ones are a pain to get the angles and everything perfect so things thread smoothly and tighten square.
  12. +1 on either add a bunch of laps, or just total it and make them take their laps. We considered running our Supra EC at both Ledges and Gingerman last year, but ran D with a bunch of laps and still had a ton of fun working our way up the field. I was thinking something similar- cutoff date/later registration for EC cars. If you're signing up as EC, you don't get to sign up till say 6 weeks before (picked a number). Give the field a chance to fill up with classed cars, but after X date, anyone can register. Total ban is bad news for the club, while the big races have waiting lists, others need those EC cars to pad the numbers. At the same time though, a "soft ban" by limiting entries per team will have the same effect. If a team only has 3 EC entries a year, they're going to use them on big races (Daytona, Sebring, Laguna, The Glen, RA, etc), not the little races where we need them. Might be able to limit EC entries on a per-race basis, but how do you handle teams getting bumped to EC? (wrong size fuel cell, swap with no paperwork, mis-understood rules, etc) Do you send paying customers home since we hit the "EC limit", or explain to teams why we now have 8 cars classed "EC" even though their entry at #6 was denied? Doable, yes, but not ideal as @chbright points out. To @Huggy and @JDChristianson's points, there 100% needs to be a hard cap on speed for EC. The rules already have a thing in there for being able to send home things that are too fast, maybe that's a bit harsh compared to filtering when registering, but it's an option.
  13. As a fellow Talon owner, I find this amusing. Not just because the alternative is to cry in the corner at the honesty of needing spares for the spare car, but thats the main reason... Fun fast but fragile....
  14. Lookin good! If you have the chance, put the cooler on some kind of floor standoff/spacers and foil the bottom (or even the whole outside of the cooler). An inch or 2 raised off the floor can make a big difference. Lots of heat flowing under the car (especially with the exhaust going down the middle) and it can kind of conduct up through. Our Supra's floor was flashing off spilled coolsuit water at Nelsons last year it was getting that hot during the day....
  15. It's weird for us as the car toes out (inside wheel turns into the turn) as it droops, but the "springs" are progressive, so we get more droop than compression in most corners. Outside tire doesn't change angle much but the inside does... Does help explain why the car is a bit "darty" on landing sometimes over Grattan's hump/jump on the backstretch and I'm sure it would be less than fun over some of the bumps at Nelsons... @djsteviec Sorry for the sort-of thread jack, but hopefully it's helpful info still.
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