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Wittenauer Racing

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  1. Cleaning up and cleaning out, found some misc stuff that someone might find useful. All is free to a good home before I just bin it. Will be at Nelsons and Gingerman, some events with other groups, or we can arrange something before then (SE Michigan). M50B25 valve cover felpro gasket kit. It's been opened, has new looking perimeter and spark plug well gaskets. M30? Plug wire sets, 3x (oem with plastic covers) E34 passenger side airbag E34 wiper motor and brakes. Sorry no linkage or wiper arms E21 evap tank (the plastic one in the trunk) E34 rear subframe with axles and medium case automatic diff (530 wagon) Will update if I find anything else
  2. New spark plugs went in at the rebuild I assume? Gapped correctly? Nothing fancy/standard copper units? We had a weird misfire we chased for a few events on an old Mini. New plugs tended to help, but would miss under load around 5k till around 6k then it would clean up and run just fine. Also got better as it warmed up. Checked for intake leaks, played with the carb jetting, bad fuel, fuel pump, etc. Finally found out that we were running the wrong plug gap for the compression ratio/fuel we were running.....
  3. While it can work, it requires smaller fields and lots of heads up driving. We ran Watkins Glenn a few years ago in a mixed class vintage Enduro. Fastest cars were running mid 2:0X, we were 2:2X and the slowest were 2:4X. 35 cars and the track felt full and kept our crew very busy spotting. Not where I'd like to see the series go either... Id chip in $50 to see that! Not sure which thread it was but I think it was @LuckyKidwho hit the nail on the head. The Riley car has been built in such a way to handle a large VPI increase. Swap to a stronger modern motor and/or an auto could quickly shed points while keeping the same pace. I support building to the limits of the rules, thats racing, but some of the reversals and such I've been hearing about from this whole thing make me a bit more hesitant to build a replacement car dedicated to champcar...
  4. Metal radio flyer here, it fits 2 Hunsakers nicely, handles most terrain we see, solid tires, and is light/easy to throw in the truck bed.
  5. Metro Detroit, right now the plan is Nelson's and Gingerman. I'm sure we can find a way to get them to Indy if that's not too late.
  6. @Jer I have a set of factory Mini Cooper wheels in 17x7 you can have for the price of "take them I need the space" if you decide to go the 17's route.
  7. All, sorry if that came off a bit more "stirring the pot" than I meant. I've been away from a lot of this for a few weeks and wasn't sure if it was clarified elsewhere and I missed it or if there were just two answers floating around or what.
  8. Wait, I'm sorry but how did we go from "Wavetrac 25pts" to "all aftermarket diffs are 25pts" yet neither is on tech desk?
  9. Hello and welcome! Miata and BMW both have this great feedback loop of "people race this car so we should build nice racecar bits" then more people buy those bits and build more racecars so more bits get made. You'll have a hard time finding something as well supported for road racing parts as a car with a spec series. The NA came out 30 years ago and yet in the past year we've seen new shocks from Penske and upgraded hubs from Wilwood, not many other platforms that have that kind of interest and support in road racing. Paddock spares are also a wonderful thing if you have a common car. Hard to go to a race and break a Miata or BMW part and not be able to find what you need from another team if you don't have/forgot yours. Being one of 3 or 4 teams in all of Champ racing a newer Mini Cooper, we bring everything we have basically and hope we have what we'll need. Back when we were running our MK3 Supra, we were the only team at Nelson's running one and the only LS powered car (it's swapped). Was great fun till we lost a power steering pump pulley and then a transmission seal. Both required a 2-3 hour trip to Summit Racing from Nelson Ledges to get the car fixed and back out during the race and we lost a lot of track time.... No shame in buying your first build, but approach it the same that would if you were debating building one of that car from scratch. Endurance racing has a way of breaking the hardest to find parts, so try to weigh the availability of parts heavily in your decision. In terms of money/cost/etc, I recommend whoever will store the car owns the car as they'll end up working on it the most. Much easier to have one person calling the shots and buying the parts then charging the others per-race than trying to take up a collection every time you need brake pads or oil or whatever. A small light car will have lower running costs, figure 10 gallons of fuel per hour in a big V8 vs 6 gal/hr in a small 4 cylinder, brakes last longer on the lighter car, as do tires. Also consider storage and towing. Smaller car, smaller spares, less load on the truck and trailer, etc. You can comfortably do a 20ft trailer with a Miata/Mini/Focus behind a 1500, but the bigger car teams tend to be in a 24ft trailer and 2500 or bigger truck. As @LuckyKid points out, a small, light car tends to be a good starting point to learn and get fast. Nothing more satisfying than reeling in a V8 Mustang or Corvette in a Mini.
  10. Personal opinion- It's bad form to change non-safety critical things mid season. It's also bad form to give one platform freebies. Should it be updated? Yes. Could it have waited till January 1st, 2021, also yes. We're another "non pro" team, we run a couple races a year mainly due to time off and scheduling conflicts. I've come to the conclusion that we're much better off building a 480 or 475 point car that is 0.1 sec/lap slower so we don't loose laps on a surprise 20pts or mid-season value change. For us it's easier and cheaper than having a trailer full of parts to swap out at the drop of a hat. While I agree it sucks to have to make changes or take points, if it does add 4 or 5 hp, it's a performance advantage and therefore should be assessed points. To me that's the better approach to rein in costs (and speeds) than to give everyone free headers.
  11. Both pads in the left front caliper, or only one of them?
  12. As far as I know only the S ever came with a factory LSD, and it's a Torsen type I thought. FYI- putting an S diff in a base is a huge pain. We're still working on making it work.... Different spline counts, different ring gear bolt pattern, different axle lenthgs, etc.... If we were to do it again we'd take the whole S trans and hope it all bolts up better....
  13. Hey Bill, I know it's a bit late for this round, but shouldn't we update 4.7.8 to say "final drive ratio" instead of "rear end ratio" ? I meant to submit a petition but missed the window... Also does do away with the 2pt "cast iron manifold loophole" and the Ecotech Miata header exception or are those still standing?
  14. Track walk. Doesn't matter how many times you point out in a drivers meeting that the crest at X turn is blind and the flag stand is over there- till you see it, at slow speed, it's not a real thing. Make it part of the drivers school by putting a different flag at each corner station that will be staffed and then talk about the flags as you get to them. Walk onto the track via pit road, stop at the stop, talk about timer turn in, then continue on around, get off the track using pit lane, talk about pit in, stopping and timers again. Big tracks like Daytona, Indy, maybe RA, would probably only be partial required due to length, but still could use the pit and the first few turns to do the driver school. Maybe release folks to carry on around the track if they wish. I turned a couple hundred laps at Gingerman before running a Midwest Council event where they did something extremely similar to what I'm proposing. Anyone new to the track or their group was to do the track walk lead by a few of their staff. Next time in the car not only did I drop some time, but I felt a lot more comfortable about where I was looking and where I was turning in, where the better options to ditch to the grass were if needed, etc. I now make it a point to walk every track I run at and I try to make a point of walking it again if there's been any work done (re-surface, runoff changes, etc) Champcar is a place that really opens up the world to us in terms of tracks we've never been to. We watch videos and sometime even turn a few laps in a racing game or 2 before showing up to a new track, but nothing prepares you better than seeing the track with your own eyes. An hour spent walking the track in the evening is an easy way to familiarize drivers with the facility in a safe, controlled, and inexpensive way. We only run a couple events a year right now (time and budget....), but I'd be happy to help where I can.
  15. As @karman1970, the Mini does have a service position like the other Germans, although I don't think we've ever used it on the racecar. Once the AC is deleted you can basically take the bumper cover off, head lights out, then the crash bar and just swing the whole core support with radiator to the side 45 degrees or so with the hoses still connected. I can't remember if there's wiring that has to be disconnected too..
  16. Quite frankly with what the car has (or doesn't in our case), there wasn't much of a point in changing before so we didn't. Stock engines dont really out flow the factory header/cat as long as it's in good shape on most newer stuff. I would be really curious to see some back to back dyno comparisons of any "free" replacement for an integrated cat manifold. The OE stuff works fine, any gains should be points. Given how much the public seems to care about HP on anything "performance" I really doubt the OEM's are ok with leaving a bunch on the table these days. Our car was built for B-spec and then brought out to play with Champcar, even did halfway decent till we rolled it in an off at Nelsons. Since then we said all in on endurance racing and are doing enough to the head and tuning to make a header necessary....
  17. No stock catless option here (Base R56 Mini Cooper) and Im sure we arent the only ones. We were already upgrading this year and will be taking the 25pts but part of me wants to ask just to see... If stock cats are now a safety concern, then where's the ban on anything rotary and anything turbo? Ive seen more turbos glow than cats, and we raced for years (as do many others in SCCA B-spec) with intact stock cats. We put a lot of effort into safety on our car, but at some point you have to call it good enough. To me we're rapidly approching a point of hurting the series to improve safety. Sorry for reviving this thread but at some point we must say enough is enough on free stuff.
  18. Spring rate will really depend on motion ratios and what your drivers are comfy with. It can be a bit unnerving getting into a really stiff car when you're used to more of a boat as the feedback feels different, and there is some truth to softer spring for rougher track in my (limited) experience. Camber wise, follow the tire temps as long as you have very little toe and aren't spinning the inside front coming out of corners. Static camber doesnt mean nearly as much as dynamic camber. Going into the corner the weight is on the outside front and compresses that corner. Tire moves up in relationship to the body, the camber angle most likely changes in relationship to the chassis, and the chassis angle to the ground also changes. A higher spring rate will reduce all of those motions for a given load, which tends to help as the dynamic camber change tends to be non-linear. Most suspensions have a sweet spot, a higher rate can help you stay in that sweet spot longer. If you're using aero, an added benefit of higher rates is that it keeps the aero components in a narrower (and hopefully more effective) height range. A splitter for example gains downforce rapidly as it gets closer to the ground, right up till it hits. Then it goes to zero.... My long winded point is this- get the tire temps happy for one driver. Then send the others out and see if they stay happy. Then add a bit more camber and see what happens. If tire temps are still happy and lap times improve, go until they get worse again, then back it off to where you're happy with the balance of wear and grip. Try to tune to your middle drivers, the fast one can adapt, and the slow one will improve faster than if you tune to the fast guy's wants. Static numbers anywhere from 0 to 4ish are fine for most, it's that dynamic situation that really matters. It's just a ton easier to measure static and since most folks are running similar spring rates for the same or similar cars, we all talk in static. The big series guys use sensors that measure the shock travel so they can go back and model the real time of all the angles. With a smooth track and entrance/exit you can get an idea of the maximum compression with zip ties on the shock shaft. I've had better luck scaling off pictures using known features on the car....
  19. Bill, thank you. I know some of us can be a bit hard to work with, but the effort is really appreciated. For those with previous clarifications, I assume they'll need to resubmit them to the system if they're still relevant?
  20. My take- Measuring the springs is useless. As Paul points out, hard to find the data to apply it across the board evenly. Similar note on "if it fits, it fits" - how do you define fits? Remember 4.4.2 and 4.4.3: Closest thing that I can come up with to match the intent of the rule: "Stock springs or direct fit aftermarket springs listed for your car (Prokit/H&R/etc) - 0 pts. Part numbers and google images will be used to verify when required. All others - 10pts each (includes adjustable perches/coilover kits)." Problems with it: - The powdercoat (and therefore part numbers) are probably long gone on most 20+ year old factory springs. -> How many people are racing on rusty old questionable springs these days? What's the actual impact to teams? - Anyone with a steady hand and a bottle of white out can do an ok job faking part numbers on their "OEM lookalike" custom wound springs. -> I'd bet if you're going thru the that level of effort to cheat here, you're doing it elsewhere too.
  21. Wheel/tire weight probably makes a bigger impact than anything else...
  22. Idea- add some graphics to the rulebook? Maybe not full Ikea instructions, but look at how much more clear roll cages are without being 30 pages thanks to 2 pictures. A graphic of easy to confuse things (0pt springs vs coilovers, aero devices, fender flare rule, etc). Yes it may add a page, but lots of clarity for very little word count....
  23. I've seen some F450/F550 or Chevy equivalent box trucks done as the RV route. Favorite setup I've seen was racecar in the box, street car (of the same car) on an open trailer behind. Loading/unloading racecar they used the ramps from the open trailer to bring the racecar onto the trailer, then trailer to ground. Downside is they tend to be kind of slow and loud. Spend the $20 and rent a Uhaul to drive around town for an hour before you go that way.... Downside to the semi route is now you have to play by all their rules - CDL, weigh stations, drive time limits, log books, etc. Also you no longer have a fuel/parts/food runner that you can send anyone to the store in when you get to the track unless someone brings another car. Buddy of mine has a 2 car gooseneck triple axle. He was towing with an older Cummins dually, liked the driveline but the rest was getting up in the years. He sold that, went to a Ford F450 dually, ran it for a season, then traded it on another Cummins. 2.5 hour tow to the track and the Ford would regen both ways, sometimes more than once, and suck down a good bit of fuel doing it. The buy a stacker and rent the cab as needed is an interesting idea....
  24. The classic Mini was basically always manual brakes, but after a few failures of stock masters, I went to a wilwood tandem unit and proportioning valve. Its for sure oversized for our system (disc front/drum rear), firm but comfortable pedal, you feel the pressure more than you feel the positon if that makes sense. Sorry cant help with the math (shot blindly from the hip and found something I like with the stock linkage). If you put the masters where its easy to see you can roughly track brakepad useage too https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-7563
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