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  1. The new switch is behaving as it should. Odd, those two kits I had ordered at the same time a few years ago were both faulty. Maybe a bad batch? All is good now.
  2. It’s this guy, just a spade connector.
  3. Oh, just my usual overzealous application of teflon tape. I would think that would prevent it from coming on? Or does the switch open with pressure rather than close? I did also check the wire, no pinches or shorts to ground. New switch should be here tomorrow.
  4. Put some time on it today... light NEVER went out. Wire to switch isn’t grounding somewhere.... Guess it’s bad? I’ll try the new one when it comes in.
  5. Looking a bit closer it appears the switch is actually on the engine side of the thermostat within the housing. After startup, it's on for about a minute, then goes out as expected. It behaves as it should for a good while until the thermostat is open at operating temperature and flow is high. At that point the light comes on from idle to 4k-ish rpm, and goes out above that point. Very odd. The longacre kit is cheap, I already have an extra switch on the way either as a spare or replacement. Guess I'll see if this one shapes up with a few more heat cycles.
  6. Kinda what I was thinking. Doesn't help that it's also in a 3/8x1/8 npt bushing that sets it back a bit too. This is all a very high flow area. Looking around at a spare head on the bench, I don't see a better location on it either....and unfortunately no ports on the block. Darn. My troubles before with this kit was in a similar situation, mounted in an oddly shaped thermostat housing and subjected to high flow. Edit- also odd that it goes out with higher rpm Good thought. I use one of those handy-dandy burp funnels on the radiator and the coolant reroute block has a bleeder at the back of the head, but this WAS the first outing after topping everything off. I'll keep an eye on things during the next few heat cycles and who knows, it may be a good indicator in the future that there's still a pocket of air in there. Fingers crossed.
  7. So I got around to putting the longacre 3psi warning light on my miata. with the switch threaded into the supermiata reroute block on the back of the head. ….aaaaand, once up to temp it starts coming on below 4k-ish rpm and staying on. What the heck? We got a fluid dynamics thing going on? This spot is right behind the thermostat. Thoughts?
  8. A hacksaw blade in the hand does a good job trimming it as well.
  9. Yeah we still had to document modifications and tabulate points.
  10. My tech and safety inspection with Jay earlier this year as EC looked just like everyone else’s. Also had to populate my new logbook (new car) with all modifications like any other. Only difference is I have over 500 pts and don’t sweat classing as much. NO shortcuts regarding safety or my car being appropriate per the rules however. Looking forward to running with you guys again at Harris Hill!
  11. Yeah, not a flicker, but it would blink on every now and then at operating temp. The me-otter is getting the same kit...hopefully those issues were a flaky switch. One thought, instead of the supplied orange light I went with a really bright red LED directed right at the driver. Impossible to miss. I wonder if me using an LED created that issue???
  12. Was genuinely interested in this but at nearly a month out still no info on the schedule? Maybe next year...
  13. Yep, we once lost a lower radiator hose and it just dumped underneath and the driver was none the wiser. He continued lapping until the engine let go. Total loss. We watched the video and the temp gauge never climbed, in fact it dropped a little. We soon put a simple longacre 3psi warning light on, but struggled with false positives for whatever reason. Moved the switch around the system, tried another switch, still false positives. Ended up just covering it with electrical tape and I’ve since moved on from that team/car. Maybe it was something odd about that old Datsun, I don’t know... I’ve got a kit ready to put on my current car... need to bump it up the priority list. The short of it, a pressure warning light is a GREAT thing, but it’s imperative to eliminate all false positives so the driver will not hesitate to shut down.
  14. We clean ours with the meguiars quik detailer. Same stuff you claybar with. It’ll still lose clarity though, but at least you aren’t scratching it up while cleaning. I’ve considered going over ours up with some plastic polish. Anyone tried that?
  15. We even had problems with those cheap hood pins on a rear opening hood. Endurance racing finds a way to open them. We resorted to a zip tie holding the pin in place and keeping the cutters handy. These days I have aerocatch, but between the install hassles, cost, and the excitement has since faded...shoulda just left it all stock.
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