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Special K

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  1. Easy? Not really. Will have to drill out some rivets to get a panel out. But luckily, all of that is new so it shouldnt need replacing for a while. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
  2. Finally done. All aluminum panels overlap. It took some doing, but it came out alright. Here's the one picture I got with my crappy old phone.
  3. Lesson learned about the miatacage kit I linked to. Definitely a pain to do around a cage. Ended up using half the kit and making my own aluminum panels for the rest of it. If anyone is interested, I can try to put some pictures up when its done
  4. Let me know how it goes for you. This is the final thing we have left to do
  5. Ok so here's the solution we've settled on. I assume covering everything with aluminum and sealing the overlapping seams with fire foam will make tech happy. And prevent our team from driving 7.5 hours to Daytona only to drive 7.5 hours back home. Thoughts? Suggestions? Snarky comments that will lead me to spend long nights in a dark room, pondering the life choices that brought me to this point? http://www.miatacage.com/package-tray-cover-kit
  6. Maybe its my own misunderstanding (entirely possible), but I took this section to mainly refer to aftermarket fuel cells, rather than the stock fuel tank in the stock location with the stock metal plates over it that make up the package rack
  7. So in an effort to make Daytona next month, the last bit of work is being finished up on our Miata. My question this time revolves around the parcel shelf (or package tray, if you prefer) behind the seat where the access to the fuel pump lives. We have rear bulkhead plates that cover the holes left by the OEM seatbelt retractors. With that, is fire foam filling all of the seams where the stock metal panels above the fuel tank come together acceptable, or is a metal firewall over all of that the correct way to go? The area where the backstays pass through into the trunk has all been fire foamed.
  8. So our car was purchased from a guy who had started a build and never finished it. The car was already caged and the cage itself had been removed from another car and installed into this one. In order to do this, a couple bars were cut, welded back together, and a sleeve (larger tube) placed over the weld and in turn, welded 360 degrees around, making a solid piece as strong (or perhaps stronger) as it started. Has anyone run a car with such a cage through tech or seen any issues with this? My understanding is that the process of sleeving over the weld and welding the sleeve is the acceptable method of doing this.
  9. I think this is great. If professional series use systems like this, why not ChampCar? Anything that can supplement an already existing method and increase everyone's safety is a plus.
  10. 205/50/15... 30 offset. The fronts appear to be tucked in ok. The rears, maybe not enough. Rolling the rear fenders proved to be a lot of work for little gain. We now have fender flares on standby in case its deemed a problem, but I think we may have gotten it sorted out
  11. In an effort to comply with the new fender rule, we've started rolling/pulling the fenders of the 90 miata. So far have only done the fronts. With a 205/50/15 and 3.5 degrees front camber, it still looks like a bit of a tight squeeze for the level to make it clear of the tire at 10 and 2. Has anyone else with a miata pulled the fenders and cleared it with ease? Or am I so incompetent that I'm replicating this whole test wrong? I ran the level as the video in another post shows, but it it seems like the fender needs to come out a full country mile to make the level clear and I'm not sure there's any left to pull. Hopefully this bit of rambling nonsense makes as much sense as it does in my head.
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