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Found 6 results

  1. apologies in advance if this has been covered, but a search of the site did not produce an answer to my question. am planning on doing a brake booster delete on my e30, and as part of that would add a manual proportioning valve in the engine bay. wondering if a proportioning valve addition and associated plumbing will incur a penalty. thx in advance for any guidance on this..
  2. I have a product certificate for $100 off 2 Frozen Rotors that I am not going to be able to use after all. Expires 3/31/17 PM your address to me and I'll send it off to you.
  3. All you e30 owners out there. Now that brake ducting is free, you can take advantage of our stainless steel brake backing plates. We originally developed them for the Spec e30 class for nasa. Condor Speed Shop's Stainless Steel E30 Brake Cooling Backing plates will simplify your race car build. They easily bolt in place of the stock brake dust shield. Pair them up with 3" silicone ducting and they will route cool air from the front of the car into the center of the rotors. 10% off for all Chumps on our Brake Backing Plates when you use CHUMPE30 http://www.condorspeedshop.com/collections/e30-parts/products/e30-stainless-steel-brake-backing-plates
  4. While doing a first pass at a brake bleed on a 72 beetle, the brake line to the rear blew just inside the cabin (hold that thought). There was a little water in that footwear for at least a year, so it was rusty, and the rest of the line is in silicone and looks good (hold that one too). So, first, is brake line inside the cabin going to pass? I believe this is factory routing, but I want to be sure. The silicone helps with keeping the line from getting rusted on the outside, but does it impede inspection enough that it needs to go (it's clear, you can see the line in it)? Second, can I cut the line downstream of the break (cutting out about 18 inches), flare the car side, and install a patch/splice? I've seen some state inspections don't like that, or it would never have occurred to me to ask. If I have to install a whole new end to end, is there any technical preference for hard lines or flex? Extra credit: Is there anything like a pre-inspection available in Houston, so I can be reasonably sure I'll pass at the event?
  5. How does a drum to disc swap work under the 2x rule? Several forum searches have returned results that amount to "aggregate the costs of all the drum parts, you then have 2x that amount to swap discs", but that seems to run counter to posts on other topics that specifically state that the 2x rule is applied on a single component basis; e.g. caliper to caliper. Do you calculate based on equivalent parts, such as shoes for pads, drums for rotors, and wheel cylinders for calipers? And if that's the case, how do you account for the backing plates, which perform some of the same functions as the caliper brackets do on a disc setup?
  6. Some of you know all this already (jsausley mentioned his brakes setup in another thread which started me looking at this) - but I didn't so felt like sharing... Wilwood 4 piston brakes are available shockingly cheap: http://autoplicity.com/products/230449-wilwood_120_6806_caliper_forged_dynalite.aspx Which is within 2x of your OE rebuilt calipers if you run an e30: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-disc-brake-caliper-rear-right-e30-ate-rebuilt-by-mfg-34211153244 Which is interesting from a bling perspective, and a debatable performance improvement over good OEM brakes (Girling for example) alone, but when you factor in what brake pads cost, it gets MUCH more interesting. e30 BMW 325i OE Rebuilt vs Wilwood Dynalite Forged 4 Piston Caliper cost Front OEM $57 Wilwood $108 Caliper cost Rear OEM $60 Wilwood $108 Brake pad cost Front (Raybestos ST41) OEM caliper $199 Wilwood caliper $82 Brake pad cost Rear (Raybestos ST41) OEM caliper $299 Wilwood caliper $82 Total 4x calipers and pads OEM $732 Wilwood $596 Total build + 4 sets of pads (good season) OEM $2,226 Wilwood $1,088 It appears that race pads are made in sufficient volume for the Dynalite calipers that they are available _much_ cheaper than the relatively low volume OE applications (smaller production runs result in higher unit prices). Couple that with the fact that there is a plethora of options in race pads for the Wilwoods while some OE applications don't have any/many good race pads available off the shelf at all and this becomes very interesting. After looking at these numbers... I'll be looking at Wilwoods (where I wasn't before). They even have pads in 12mm or 16mm to get closer to your OEM rotor width. Nifty. Disclaimer: Mounting brake calipers is not something to jury-rig, Wilwood sells some adapters, they may not be available for your application - if not a custom adapter may or may not be feasible in your application. Don't convert your brakes if you aren't able to do it as sturdy and with equivalent precision as the OE mounting - in fact my advice is don't convert your brakes at all if you want to minimize risk - OE brakes are probably the safest solution and almost certainly the one with the most proven testing in your application. Pad links for ref: http://www.topbrakes.com/carSeriesDetails.php/1011/Racing+Brake+Pads/RAYBESTOS/Raybestos+Custom+ST41/1987+BMW+318i+E30+Chassis http://www.topbrakes.com/carSeriesDetails.php/43927/Racing+Brake+Pads/RAYBESTOS/Raybestos+ST41/1957+RACE+CALIPERS+Wilwood+Dynalite+Cotter+Pin+-+Old+Style Note: please use Chump Sponsors for your racing purchases - I only included links to show my work and don't endorse or know anything about any companies mentioned or linked above... Edited because the table that I pasted in got completely jacked so I had to change it to make it somewhat clear (though ugly). Then edited again to fix table math (the totals originally didn't include cost of 4 calipers... just 2)
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