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Found 3 results

  1. Several questions were asked in a thread that was not in the tech section. This is for Gen 1 Dodge\Plymouth neon, 95 to 99. Re posting that information here to help any team interested in running these cars. They can be great cars for teams on a budget, many ex scca IT cars exist and there was once a class specifically for these cars (Spec Neon). Many of these former race cars exist, most with the desirable parts like the SDK option already on them. They lack the fuel capacity of many of the more popular 80's cars and require a motor swap to be reasonable competitive (or turbo). They have hub\bearing issues that need to be addressed or monitored. The engines require attention to detail and some basic mods to be reliable at higher duty cycle in DOHC form. Unless you are a really good car builder, they will be more difficult to push to the front than a BMW (e30/e36). The cost of operation can be much lower and replacement\repair of the chassis is much easier; I have owned several parts cars with $350 being the most I have paid for a driving parts car. So if you are a new team looking for a cheap car, or have a Neon and are looking for basic advise on how to field one, here you go: If you have more questions on a particular area please chime in. Hopefully some of the other car makes will release similar info to at least get new teams up to mid pack speed.
  2. Good day to all my fellow Chumpcar, err, Champcar folks! In a perfect world, there would be enough time to work, live and race, however, life tends to be less than ideal. With that said, it's come time to send all the parts and pieces accumulated over the past couple of years for the race car buils to the next man. included: Two Mustangs - a 1985 GT 5.0 and a 1990 GT 5.0, both are factory 5-speed cars have full suspension under them. The 1985 still has it's title and is mostly complete though gutted for build-out. the 1990 is missing the front fenders and drivers door. 1985 has the 7.5 and the 1990 has has 8.8 extra 8.8 rear end - trac-lok: 3.55 (fresh track-lok clutches) setup for disc brakes out of a Turbocoupe extra Turbocoupe front K-member with complete front suspension, steering rack and TC brakes(same diameter as SN95). two 2.3L Turbo engines (turbo-to-pan) out of 1988 Turbocoupes - both are complete and will need to be freshened. One has two events on it but might need a rod resized and the crank turned. Block, cylinder bores/pistons etc in great shape. Includes late model Ranger roller cam and followers. extra 2.3L EFI head compatible with turbo setup fresh from the machine shop with mild port work, fresh springs and bigger valves. two computers from the Turbo coupes including full wiring harness two SVO 4cyl T5 transmission - both in fully operable condition. CE mini-stock roll cage kikt with NASCAR style door bars. (not assembled, will likely need a bit of surface rust removed) 3-4 sets of foxbody wheels - at least two sets of factory snowflake 16x7 Partial exhaust system with Flowmaster muffler, etc., etc., etc. Anything else I find for the car will also go with it. Have several sets of used 245 and 225 Hoosier DOT slicks that go with them as well. There's likely 80%-85% of what one would need to complete a racer along with a plethora of spares. You'll need interior wiring, lights, seat, gauges, cool suit hardware, and random odds and ends. Would like to get $2000 for everything (might throw in the kitchen sink...) If you need a seat, I'm selling a new, never used 2015 18" Ultrashield HaloVS separately for $250. Might make a deal with the package list above. Thanks for looking and forward along and question you might have. *I'll take some picture this coming week.* Everything is located in Little Elm, Texas - halfway between Denton and McKinney.
  3. Hey everyone I'm Ron, I just found out about this thing called ChumpCar and LeMons racing 2 days ago, at age 35 and loving to drive cars fast you would think I would have found this by now but you know... Anyways I am looking to get my first Chumper and start building her up in hopes to spin her tires around the track for the first time in 2018 (Is a year - year and a half reasonable for a first time build?) I am on here today asking for advice on what is a good car to start with, though I know many have their own personal preferences on make and models, or engine size and weight, I am looking to get a more overall picture of what cars are easy to work on and build. Honda civics are a dime a dozen with an endless about of parts and after market upgrades and they are pretty easy to work on, but is it better to go for one that runs good from the start with a higher liter engine staring me at a higher VPI like a Ford Mustang needing little to no upgrades, or a car that runs good but has a small liter engine starting me with a lower VPI, leaving room for more up grades like a Toyota Tercel? As far as the build itself goes, I went school for a general bumper to bumper exp. we worked on everything except transmissions (Though it was the biggest section in the 600+ page curriculum), I tore 4 cylinder/ V-6/ V-8 engines down as far as possible and put them completely back together every day for a good month (The engines never got started so I am a little nervous about timing belts/ chains) we studied and removed and replace everything (Non- Body) on the cars from tires to ball joints, drum and disk breaks, tie rods, shocks, struts, coil overs, you name it. After I graduated, I worked at a Midas in Santa Clarita, California for a couple years where again I did so much more than just oil changes, tires and alignments, I replaced more valve covers and oil pans than I can counts, I have spent more time upside down in the driver seat of a car chasing electrical issues and brake switches, I have dropped a number of transmissions (Midas shipped them to trans shops to be re-built) and I have continued to work on my cars and trucks even after I left Midas. so overall I feel confidant to build my first Chumper myself and with the help of my gear head friends, and the few things I can't do I will take to a shop if they need to be fixed like a transmission. ok enough rambling from me below are some questions I have after looking into this for only two days, I want to thank everyone for taking the time to read this, and for any help that is offered up, I look forward to this journey and am excited about taking the first steps today. I am budgeting $5000.00 for this build (Just the build, not racing fees or gear) is that a good amount or is that too low? Once I have a car, what upgrades are worth spending the extra points? (exhaust, headers, ecu...) What upgrades are not worth spending points on? (adjustable coil overs, sway bars...) Do any weight reductions cost point? (I didn't see anything in section 4 of the rules about weight reduction, but i only read through it once) What are good things to remove from a car to reduce the weight? Automatic or Manuel Transmission? everyone was a first time racer, or built their first car, or put their first team together, what were the things you found difficult your first few times out? what things were simple? What things caught you off guard? Any other advice a first timer should know or consider? p.s. sorry if this is hard to read, English and Grammar were not my strong suits in school...
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