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Found 16 results

  1. Used E36 Autopower roll cage. Good condition but you will want to repaint it. Includes sleeves and hardware to reinstall. Added seat-back bar. Ran it in Chumpcar several years ago, should still be legal as far as I know. Located in Medina, MN. No, I won't ship it. Craig Lovold (612) 418-6302 craigl@lovolds.com
  2. I was thinking last night about trying to start a thread where points or rules have no reason to be discussed. And it hit me, since driver comfort/aids are open there should be absolutely NO discussion about claiming points or rules. So, lets see those interiors. I'm all about tidy and functional driver spaces and love to poach ideas from other racers. There are some really creative guys/gals on here so lets see what you've done/used past, present and future. Gauges, tablet mounts, pedals, coolsuit mounts, radio installs, etc etc. I'll get some pics of our interior this weekend.
  3. We stared out with a customers E30 and a cage he purchased online, we fabricated and installed chassis boxes, bent a couple extra tubes, got everything fit coped and welded up. We fabricated a seat bracket and installed the seat then had the customer come back for a fitting in the car to make sure the seat was in the correct place. We removed the sunroof and track then welded the skin back in place. You can see the E30 and other projects we're working on at Restoration Race Works Inc on Face book Give us a call for any of your track prep needs, we do full electrical systems, fire systems, seat fitment, spec cages, and a lot more
  4. Restoration Race Works is serving the triangle area with our Raleigh based shop. We provide a host of services specializing in prepping cars for the track. Roll cage fabrication, custom seat fitment, fire system installation, general fabrication and much more. Check us out at Restoration Race Works Inc. on Face Book
  5. REDUCED: Seat, firecharger & spare wheels no longer included, but the car is FREE to a good home!!! Howdy All - We’ve decided to move on from our 1984 Celica GT Chumpcar. It ran the 2015 October Harris Hill race (23 laps, blew motor,) and the 2016 August COTA race (13 laps, blew another motor.) While it has a motor in it, you should consider the motor complete garbage. After the COTA race, oil had a bunch of glitter, so something is very very unhealthy inside. Perhaps you bought Night Fury’s Celica and you want a whole other shell just in case (bump for them, they’re great guys, helped us out a lot at the Harris Hill race in 2015.) We think the rest of the driveline (trans, diff,) is probably OK still. More pics here, and happy to take any others you need to see. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1LbUWTuui1ZcnRodjNsMHZBcGc?usp=sharing Safety Parts: 2016 chump tech sticker 1-3/4 x .095 DOM cage G-Force 6-point camlock belts (2012) Wired for coolshirt cooler, switch on cage (coolshirt/cooler not included.) Things that are stock, but replaced with “OE-equivalent” parts right before 2015 race Clutch shocks/struts, balljoints, bushings in suspension (all of them) Tie rods Wheel bearings (front + rear) Front calipers, rear cylinders Front discs Rear shoes Things that are better than stock Carbotech CT245 RP2 pads in front Double-row aluminum radiator, dual electric fans Toyo Proxes R1 225 45 ZR 15 tires. 7/32 tread left. NRG 2.5 steering wheel quick release Braided stainless brake lines Things to be aware of Has adjustable camber plate on one side, but has stock struts, meaning there isn’t any adjustment possible unless you do coilovers. Other camber plate is included, but not installed. Relocated fuel filter to higher up in engine bay because it was impossible to access in stock location. Stock EGR deleted, blockoff plates either TIG welded or bolted to head. Solid motor mounts. Texas title and bill of sale in hand from the guy we bought it from in 2011. Battery not included, car not running. Bring a trailer, I'll help load Spares included: ECU Head Gasket (at a minimum. there’s a couple mixed gasket sets included.) Car is in north Austin, TX.
  6. This is a bit of a different question than the other recent X-bar thread; I want to understand how high the bottom of the X can be from the sill bar. We are running the continuous bar from about 18" up the main hoop to near the sill bar on the A-pillar bar. My question is are you allowed to have a gap between the sill bar and X-bar on the A-pillar bar, or must these points intersect? I've attached a few pics to show what I mean. I'm also trying to understand if there is any required minimum gap from top of door to top of x-bars. I don't see anything in the rules, but want to know if there is a rule of thumb here. Thanks for all the info so far, really appreciate everyone helping the new guys!
  7. Our team is trying to layout out our roll cage for our car and need some advice. We are building an early C4 Corvette and want to make sure our cage is legal. Unlike a lot of the cars used for Chump the C4 has a perimeter frame that actually kicks up just behind the driver (shown in the attached picture). With this constraint our cage will not look like the cage shown in the rule book. We would like to mount the hoop bar to the top of the frame where the frame changes direction and goes from vertical to horizontal just behind the driver’s seat. I think that this would be acceptable however the problem comes in at the door bars. Typically they would connect from the rear hoop then to then the vertical bar at the leading edge of the door/dash, however if we install our rear hoop at the top of the frame the door bars would have to connect to the vertical portion of the frame. There are some sample pictures that we found on the Web of what we were considering. Would this be acceptable, if not does anyone have any pictures of a Chumpcar approved cage in a C4?
  8. Hi everybody. I've got a couple days to get rid of the E46 M3 that's shown below. I don't have a title or bill of sale. The owner recently moved to Washington, and abandoned the cars at my shop in Costa Mesa, CA. The price is 100% free, and the only catch is you have to come get it immediately. I am actively looking for a dismantler to come get this, so if you don't act fast, it may be gone quickly! This car was track prepped prior to being sidelined. Worst case, the cage looks good, and would save a new team a ton of effort. The rear suspension is still installed, but no diff, engine, or trans to speak of at this point. Front end is tweaked to the right a bit, but anyone with a frame rack could have this thing straightened out in no time. Thanks for your interest, Kirk Feldkamp Please call or email ASAP: kirk@urbanworkshop.net or 503.703.4869 (personal cell - please don't call past 8pm)
  9. We are about a week away from being ready for a cage and I was hoping there were some other 1995-1998 200sx Chumps that might have some pictures of cages that made it past the tech inspectors. Any help is appreciated. https://www.facebook.com/teambitterracing
  10. I have a 1987 e30 325 that we were building into a chump and my partners lost interest. I will continue to race with my other team and now need to get rid of this roller. Fra me in great shape and all panels are perfect. Full cage, trans and lower end. Head was damaged and is no good. Asking 1k.if interested, I can text or email photos and more info. Located in Wilson, NC. About a hour east of Raleigh. Car would make for a good replacement she'll for someone that has a heavily used chumpcar and needs a fresh frame.
  11. Awesome work on my cage done by Russ at Racetech Motorsports in Portland. He fixed some crappy work by the guy who did my cage on my last car so I had him do my cage on my "new" car. Top notch. Wish I could figure out how to post the pictures, but if you want to see any, drop me a message and I'll email them to you.
  12. Hello guys, So here is yet another "Is my cage legal" thread. I know that you all can't see every nook and cranny and it's hard to judge on pictures alone, but I was wondering if I could get some input on our cage. We tried our best to follow the rules to a T, and tried to include extra safety where possible. The cage started as an FIA-approved Safety Devices cage which we modified to the Chumpcar standards. As the car is a Porsche 914, there are several areas where this cage differs from most of yours, including the rear hoop supports. John has already OK'd this cage for use, even though it does not have the normal 45 degree downbars (since the car is a Targa, the rear hoop is actually bolted to the factory targa roll bar and has two diagonal braces that bolt to the rear firewall to support it). It is fully bolt-in now, using welded-in nut plates for the feet, which sit on top of the unibody framerail, which Porsche guys call a longitudinal box. All bolts are grade 8 (metric 10.9). The only area I really have any concern about is the driver door bars. They are a little less than 6 inches apart, since we had to place them lower to allow for driver ingress/egress in such a small car, which we consider very important to safety. Since the driver sits below the frame box/sill, we consider this to be another crumple zone, effectively adding a third door bar. I'd like your opinions, particularly those of the Chump Tech officials, before I go and paint this thing up. Sorry the floors are so dirty currently. Thank you!
  13. Hey All, I am looking to fix a part of our roll cage and was told either to replace the whole bar or to sleeve it. I just wanted to know what you use as the sleeve, I've seen the bolt kits on some cage websites, but I assume a weld in piece would be better. If you are a cage builder pm me and I can send you a picture of what we are trying to do. Just looking for some advice on wether we can sleeve this part or should get a new bar installed. Cheers,
  14. Nearing the time to build a cage, I need advice and time from someone who has done it, as opposed to had it done. New team, let's collect new team Chump dollars for your helpful advice, we have folks who can weld. Thanks, John
  15. where do you mount the anti submarine strap, to the sliders? to the seat? or do you have to mount it to the car? how does that work if you slide the seat forward and back? Also if a seat is on sliders do the sliders have to lock on both sides? i have seen some teams with the rear seat brace, is that what keeps the seat from sliding forward? Cheers,
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