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Found 6 results

  1. 1988 Honda CR-X. Was meant to become my race car to enter in the ChampCar Endurance series. Drove this car from Brooksville, FL to my home (50 miles). The car has stayed in my garage. I stripped it and sold off the seats, carpet, hatch, windows and most of the trim though still have some that are not shown in the images. Converted the rear brake drums to disc. Installed a new high pressure fuel pump from TH Motorsports in the new gas tank. Bought and installed some of the polyurethane bushings. Have stainless steel braided brake lines. Ultra Shield race seat and cushion are new. Fire suppression system is new but should be serviced. Believe the gearbox is an JDM B16A with an OBX Helical LSD diff. Has a B18C1 engine. I can not speak to any modifications that may have been done to the engine prior to me buying the car. I bought a rollcage and have it about 40% installed. Will need to be towed away. I will get suspension, brakes, wheels on. Buy as is. I have several images of it but only seem to be able to upload one.
  2. First, here are the pictures. I can't upload due to file size. I can also text them if you don't trust the link. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5VvQmxb71oh3QUkf6 It's ugly, but it finished its first race at gingerman in 2017 and it's second race at Road America 2018. Surprisingly decent car to drive, and very fun to pass people that get the red mist thinking that they have to be faster than the POS in their mirrors. What's been done: Big ol radiator Bilstein replacement dampers on cut springs Abs removed What needs to be done, without a doubt before next race: General maintenance, raced it then parked it. New front brake pads/rotors Fix the alternator sense wire that broke and got shoved in the connector but somehow survived all 16 hours of road America. Tires General specs: 97 Passat, vr6 DOM cage home welded from rollcagecomponents. Fia rated seat and cam lock harness, both in date (AUG '16 on the harness, seat bought at same time) 2300 lbs, still more weight to pull from door skins (and probably other places if you're creative) 320 points Comes with: Spare diff 4 original wheels, 4 Steelie wheels Tires are mounted, but maybe possibly definitely flat spotted Contact: Jason 719-660-4249. I get so many spam calls, just text me, then you can call if you want. Asking 2k, open to offers. I'll try to get on here for replies, but text would be best. Car is in Howell, Michigan.
  3. Anyone interested in starting a team in SE Minnesota? I live in Rochester MN, and have noticed a distinct lack of teams in the general surrounding area. I think it's time to fix that. Who's interested in helping me fix such a tradgedy? Looking forward to hearing from you guys, Joseph B.
  4. Trying to find a pic on my work computer, will upload one later. Asking $3000, which I understand, is very high for a Chump, but when you get the parts description, you could send the thing to the crusher and still make out like a bandit. Spend a few hundred bucks and make this the fastest EC thing on the grid, or strip off all the expensive parts and make another Chump on the cheap. Really. This car has humongous potential, but mostly gave us misery. We aren't ChumpCar racing anymore, and this car isn't competitive in the other series. The expensive stuff got put on to try to stay competitive in the other series. Didn't work. It wore me out and I don't have the energy or time to strip it for parts. It's also one of the coolest looking cars on the grid. It's kinda PURTY! Started out life as a quite respectable 1987 Porsche 924S. For the non-Porschephiles, the 924S is basically a 944 with a smaller, lighter body. It is NOT a 924. I drove it to work for a month before stripping it and making it into a ChumpCar. Didn't have a scratch on it until it became a race car. And only got a few beauty marks doing that. It then proved to be a purebred Porsche and blew the freshly rebuilt motor 7 hours into the first race. We swapped in an iron-block LM7 (LS3) truck motor from a 2002 Chevy Suburban. Because 30 year-old Porsche motors + endurance racing = misery. For us anyway. Very cheap motor from a CCWS standpoint because of the iron block, and built like a bulletproof tank. 6-bolt mains, could probably use beach sand for oil and not burn it up. Surprisingly only 100 lbs more than the stock Porsche 4-cylinder boat-anchor, because, well, Porsche. Legal, tech-cleared cage in CCWS and 2 other series. $800 Kirkey Full-containment seat $300 Accusump system with remote filter Custom dash/guages which got an envious thumbs-up on every grid. Stage II SPEC Clutch Two 5-speed transaxles, one stock, one 944T with a $1400 Quaife LSD. That one is freshly rebuilt, not in the car. Legal pull-type fire system. Legal Fuelsafe 21 gallon Fuel cell High-strength custom racing axles, $1200. Ground Control Coilover suspension and caster/camber plates, $1400 2 sets of Boxster wheels Lexan rear hatch, aluminum rear spoiler/fuel quickfill All new bearings, tie rods, spares as well. Braided stainless fuel lines, oil lines. Rare manual 944 steering rack Manual brakes, Wilwood master cylinder (No offense intended to my racing sisters, but Porsche, manual brakes and steering...grrr...man-car.) Lots more stuff I can't remember at the moment. We spent lots of bucks on this thing, I'm know I could part it out for $6K but as I've mentioned, I'm done with it. The bad stuff. For some reason, after the first few races, we could never make the LS motor run very well. Poor power (for a V8 in a 2400lb car) and keeps throwing various emissions codes. Has the stock Suburban ECU with a cloned spare, OBDII port functions appropriately. Everything sensor-wise is new or replaced except for the harness. The wiring harness is original and has frayed wires, which I highly suspect is the gremlin issue, but I'm sick of it and don't want to screw with it any more. (Have I mentioned that before?) The long block has great compression and leakdown, I truly think it's bulletproof. I swiped the fuel surge tank for the new race car, but it has the stock Porsche fuel pump as well as a $500 in-tank FuelSafe pump as well. $50 on eBay on a surge tank and that's done. Either replace the harness, rebuild the harness or put a custom harness on it and I think it would solve all the weird electrical issues. We want to get rid of this thing, my wife is also sick of it in the driveway. I have a love/hate relationship with it and would love to see it on the grid again.
  5. I am new to this whole cheap...ish...racing thing and am looking into both ChumpCar World Series and LeMons racing, but I live in AZ, and most my friends that are willing to drive and join my team still live in CA and I travel for work (Construction), so it makes it hard for everyone to get a decent amount of seat time in the race car, and deciding on a central race to ease traveling costs on everyone also seems like it will be a hassle... so I was wondering are there any race clubs or series that are on the cheaper side like ChumpCar and LeMons that are not endurance races? that a solo or two driver teams can do? any cheap car rally cross or rally series? I am hooked on this ChumpCar World Series but not so sure my mates are and I would like to get all in on racing. Thank you for taking the time to read this post and for any and all advice given. Ronnie
  6. Hey everyone I'm Ron, I just found out about this thing called ChumpCar and LeMons racing 2 days ago, at age 35 and loving to drive cars fast you would think I would have found this by now but you know... Anyways I am looking to get my first Chumper and start building her up in hopes to spin her tires around the track for the first time in 2018 (Is a year - year and a half reasonable for a first time build?) I am on here today asking for advice on what is a good car to start with, though I know many have their own personal preferences on make and models, or engine size and weight, I am looking to get a more overall picture of what cars are easy to work on and build. Honda civics are a dime a dozen with an endless about of parts and after market upgrades and they are pretty easy to work on, but is it better to go for one that runs good from the start with a higher liter engine staring me at a higher VPI like a Ford Mustang needing little to no upgrades, or a car that runs good but has a small liter engine starting me with a lower VPI, leaving room for more up grades like a Toyota Tercel? As far as the build itself goes, I went school for a general bumper to bumper exp. we worked on everything except transmissions (Though it was the biggest section in the 600+ page curriculum), I tore 4 cylinder/ V-6/ V-8 engines down as far as possible and put them completely back together every day for a good month (The engines never got started so I am a little nervous about timing belts/ chains) we studied and removed and replace everything (Non- Body) on the cars from tires to ball joints, drum and disk breaks, tie rods, shocks, struts, coil overs, you name it. After I graduated, I worked at a Midas in Santa Clarita, California for a couple years where again I did so much more than just oil changes, tires and alignments, I replaced more valve covers and oil pans than I can counts, I have spent more time upside down in the driver seat of a car chasing electrical issues and brake switches, I have dropped a number of transmissions (Midas shipped them to trans shops to be re-built) and I have continued to work on my cars and trucks even after I left Midas. so overall I feel confidant to build my first Chumper myself and with the help of my gear head friends, and the few things I can't do I will take to a shop if they need to be fixed like a transmission. ok enough rambling from me below are some questions I have after looking into this for only two days, I want to thank everyone for taking the time to read this, and for any help that is offered up, I look forward to this journey and am excited about taking the first steps today. I am budgeting $5000.00 for this build (Just the build, not racing fees or gear) is that a good amount or is that too low? Once I have a car, what upgrades are worth spending the extra points? (exhaust, headers, ecu...) What upgrades are not worth spending points on? (adjustable coil overs, sway bars...) Do any weight reductions cost point? (I didn't see anything in section 4 of the rules about weight reduction, but i only read through it once) What are good things to remove from a car to reduce the weight? Automatic or Manuel Transmission? everyone was a first time racer, or built their first car, or put their first team together, what were the things you found difficult your first few times out? what things were simple? What things caught you off guard? Any other advice a first timer should know or consider? p.s. sorry if this is hard to read, English and Grammar were not my strong suits in school...
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