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  1. I live in northern Arizona around Prescott Valley, and I just found out about this ChumpCar stuff and it sounds like something I really want to get involved in. Is there anyone in Arizona that are ChumpCar racers or teams that a new guy could set up a meet and pick your brain about?
  2. ****YES THIS IS LONG, READ IT ALL ANYWAYS. IT WILL PROBABLY ANSWER 90% OF YOUR QUESTIONS!!!!!**** I would like to say I did not write all of this. Some of it is borrowed from "Erik the Awful" over on the Lemons forums. It is a well written write up and I have taken the liberty of changing a fair amount of things to apply a to ChumpCar. So let us begin. Thanks to Bruce, for the idea. Also I'm a Canadian, so it colours my spelling. How to be a Chump There are two ways to go ChumpCar racing: Arrive & Drive or Organize a Team. Arrive & Drive: The simplest is to Arrive & Drive with an existing team. Typically a team will ask you to fork over about $900 (give or take a couple hundred), bring your own gear, not wad up the car, and not act like a douche bag. In exchange, they promise a spot on their team, and promise to bring a car, but they don't guarantee the car will run the entire race. This arrangement is the easiest way to race, but there is a lot of risk in dealing with an unknown car and unknown personalities, and you may have trouble finding a team willing to take on an unproven driver. If you go this route, do your best to be a contributing teammate and not a primadonna. In this crowd keeping a good reputation is important. If you work out well for the team, they might make room to invite you back or recommend you to another team if they don't have room. If you act like a jerk, expect other teams to know it. Also, ask ahead of time what is expected of you. You don't want to show up late on Friday to learn they expected you to go through the tech inspection with them. Some teams also show up to race with unfinished cars, expecting their paying drivers to help finish the car. To most Arrive and Drive people this is unacceptable, make sure you know what you are getting into. It is highly recommended to Arrive & Drive with an existing team once before you try and organize your own team. Organizing a Team: Organizing a Team is expensive. Expect the complete team costs to run about $5000, or about $1000 per driver AFTER personal safety equipment (with a higher driver count). It is possible to come out a little lower, but not by much without compromising safety. Make sure your drivers know that they are NOT going to spend $500 split 4 ways. Prepare them for $1000-2000 EACH for their first ChumpCar race on a newly-built car. If you have safety gear already this may actually be as low as $700-1200/ea depending on what had to be done to the vehicle. Organizing a Team is a pain in the donkey (this cannot be emphasized enough). Expect at least half your teammates to drop out due to money or time conflicts. Expect personality conflicts. Expect spousal disapproval. Expect time crunches. Expect tow vehicle failure. Expect lack of attendance for car-work-days. If you still want to go this route, here's our advice, learned the hard way. Organization: The best way to manage expectations is to draw up a rules contract and make sure everyone signs and reads it. Once everyone is recruited, start making lists. You'll need a list of who's in charge of what part of preparation. You'll need a list of what needs fixing on the car with check boxes that you can initial off as each repair is done. You'll need a list of what parts and gear is needed and what has been bought. You'll need a spreadsheet of who's paid up. Most importantly you'll need a packing list for the race. The team captain pretty much ends up responsible for taking up the slack when it comes to funds. Get your teammates to pay up front. Getting them to pay up after the race is over doesn't work. If your team is short on drivers, don't settle for lousy teammates just because you can't find anyone else to be on your team. The corollary to this is "don't be a crappy teammate", especially if you're having trouble paying your share. Do your best to keep from putting the team captain in a bad position. If necessary you can sell your plasma for up to $300 a month. Arrive early on Friday so you can help get the pit area set up and help get the car through tech. If you can't find enough good drivers, forget building a car and Arrive & Drive. If you've built a car and your team bails, ask if there's a team that doesn't have their car finished that would be willing to pay to drive it. I would shoot for $1000 + a $1000 deposit for a decently sorted car, less for something you'll finish building at the track or something slow, more for a top-contender. Set an early due-date for fees. If your drivers are hesitant, you don't want to commit by paying for the race and then have them back out. Know before the due-date if they really are committed. If they aren't you will still have time to shop around for more teammates. Here's an excerpt from our new team rules designed around alleviating such stresses. Race Fees Each driver shall be responsible for one driver's share of the team fee, one driver's fee, paying their annual competition license (membership fee), one driver's share of the transponder rental, and, if camping, one camper's share of the camping fee (this largely depends on the track rules and set up). Each crew member shall be responsible for one membership fee. If he is camping, he is responsible for one camper's share of the camping fee as mentioned above. Drivers who have been notified they are on the team must pay a deposit of one-half their fees at least one week before the entry deadline. If they fail to pay up by that time, their position will be opened up to other drivers, to possibly include asking for drivers on the ChumpCar Forum. Their full-due date is on the entry deadline. If there are not at least four paying drivers by the entry deadline, [the team] will not compete in that race. If it's coming down to the last day to enter a race and it doesn't look like the car's going to be ready, consider your team. Would they be willing to show up with an unfinished car and complete it at the track, possibly missing track time, or would they rather pack it in and go for a later race? How much more work does your car still need? Paying for the event and then missing it really sucks. Car Selection: Pick one that's small and lightweight, made by a ubiquitous manufacturer, related to a performance model, and has a common wheel bolt pattern. Parts for cars made by rare manufacturers are expensive. Heavy cars are slower and burn through brakes, tires, and gas. Performance tires in less than 17" diameter are difficult to find and most older cars run 15" wheels, so having a common bolt pattern makes your wheel and tire selection much easier. An obvious choice for a ChumpCar would be a Ford Mustang, which had many parts that interchanged with the Fox Body platform. Ford Fairmonts and Futuras interchange well with Mustangs, but they're not lightweight. Honda Civics, are a dime a dozen and engine and drive train components can be used through different model years. Mazda GLCs/323s can accept some RX-7 parts, but be aware that early RX-7s have a rare bolt pattern and some people consider rotaries to be unreliable and difficult to work on. Also consider Honda Civic, Nissan Sentra, Toyota Supra, Ford Escort, Ford Focus, Mazda Miata, Chevy Camaro/Pontiac Firebird, Dodge Neon, Lexus SC300, etc. Manual vs. automatic transmission doesn't really matter. Manuals blow clutches, automatics fail if you don't keep them cool (and then sometimes just fail anyways). If you don't mind replacing a clutch in the middle of the race, go manual. Just be sure to bring spare clutches and pressure plates and make sure all your drivers know how to drive it before the race. If you go with an automatic, convert your A/C condenser into a super-sized transmission cooler. It's as easy as using a tubing cutter to cut off the A/C fittings and soldering some fuel tubing into the larger line. Use a propane torch and lead solder, not electrical solder. Car Prep: When prepping the car, start early! Prepping a car will take longer than you think, even if you just gut and cage a car. If you buy a car cheap, it's probably going to need a lot of repairs. Reliability is everything. Forget hot-rodding the car, focus on bullet-proofing everything. Visit websites and forums for the car you're racing and see what the common problems are so you can engineer fixes for those systems. Ask racers you know for advice on setting the car up. Ask if they've been to the track where you're racing and what to expect. You can get a big step up on your competition just by knowing what you'll be facing. Geographical separation can make car prep a real pain. If your teammates are neighbors it's easier to get everyone together for work days, but if your teammates are half an hour away, expect some difficulty. If you can talk your wife into watching a couple of extra kids while you and your teammates are slaving away in the garage, you might get more participation. The cooling system is the most important system on the car in an endurance race. Replace hoses and double-clamp them. Spring clamps from Japanese cars are great and cheap from your local Pull-A-Part. If your cooling system is barely big enough, put a second radiator on your roof. Spend money on brakes. You'll want calipers that work properly, good rotors that aren't under spec, and race pads that won't melt under heavy braking. Run the best cheap tire you can. If you can get Dunlop Direzza Star Specs or Falken Azenis, then do it. If your wheels require a size that isn't available in those tires, find something cheap and soft that's as wide as you can get. Everyone has to pass the Tech Inspection, and you can't pass Tech if you don't know the rules. Download the rules, read the rules, follow the rules during your build, and you will have a much better chance of passing the Tech Inspection. Count on misinterpreting something and having to go out and buy parts at 4pm Friday afternoon. To minimize your chances of failing tech, print off the Official ChumpCar Tech Inspection checklist and use it on your car. Then print off a few nice, clean copies to take to the race. They usually have some at the tech shed, but you need to have them filled out before you get to tech and it's a pain having to walk across the paddock and back for a sheet of paper you could have printed off at home. Test your battery shutoff switch a week before the race. Most first-time builders get it wrong, even when they know what they're doing. If you have to run 6 feet of 4 gauge cable across your engine bay, you'll want it done in advance instead of running to a parts store Saturday morning while everybody is already circling the track waiting for the green flag to drop. If you're actually worried about Penalty laps, bring the proper documentation per the rules. 10 Ads for your specific make and model of engine swap, transmission swap, or differential swap. Ads for any assembly that's home made, or needs to comply with a 2X rule, such as brakes or shocks. A couple weeks out from the race you need to get some track time with your car. Auto-crosses aren't quite endurance enough for a full shake-down, but they'll show you any glaring errors. This is also a good opportunity to try putting your car on and off the trailer. You don't want to be loading up at home on the morning of tech inspections and find out your car is too low. Check all the trailer tires for tread depth, bubbles in the sidewall, tread separation, and proper pressure. Pop off the wheel bearing caps to see what the condition inside is. Check all the wiring to make sure it's working and that it's not exposed to road debris. Make sure the ball socket works as it should. These are also good opportunities for driver training and seeing just how bad/good your teammates skills are. Safety: For the love of god, DON'T SKIMP ON SAFETY. The last thing you want to do is explain to a teammate's spouse that they died because you went cheap on the safety equipment. Don't underestimate the power of Mom when it comes to buying safety gear. I'm not saying mooch off your parents, but when my mother heard I was going to a ChumpCar race, she made a monetary safety equipment donation that allowed me to upgrade from a foam collar to a Hans. My recommendation is to get the 3.2A/5 suit, share a Hans with the team, and use DOM tubing for your cage. If you're racing in hot weather, a Cool Suit IS safety gear. On a 100 degree day most racers with neck donuts and no Cool Suit start making bad decisions after 15 minutes. With a Cool Suit you can run comfortably for about 45 minutes. Build your own cooler/bilge pump contraption or buy a used one from a medical supply store. Make your own Cool Shirts with cotton t-shirts and surgical tubing. Theme: Not a requirement for ChumpCar but it certainly ads a little flair to a team. Teamwork: Lead by example. If you're the team captain, be willing to go it alone if need be. You'll need that level of commitment to get it done in light of the usual obstacles, and the team needs to know that you'd push it through on your own and even drive alone if needed. Your teammates' level of commitment will be in proportion to, but never greater than, yours. That said, you'll still need to push them to hold up their end. Setting up and teaching by yourself on Friday can be a real pain, and the Officials will wonder what's up with your theme if you're the only team member there. Keeping your team involved is important. If your team loses interest you become a one-man arrive and drive shop, which is an incredible amount of work. Assume your teammates are more talented and experienced than you, and let them express that talent by giving them room to create and improvise. Any time you describe their work be generous with praise and credit, but not so generous that they get a big head and start demanding a pay check or threaten to go off and join Eyesore. If the car is street able and you can afford to insure it, drive the car around town so that their work is seen. Put their names on the car. Let them take the car out to track days, auto-crosses, or let them take it on dates after you've cleaned out the dead rats and turds. If nothing else they will have more seat time to get comfortable with the car. Hold social activities with your team. Team meetings can be held at a restaurant over enchilada dinners and Dos Equis, or at the home of whichever team member has a pool. Have an organized agenda of the various points you need to discuss, take notes, and keep focused on answering the questions. Once the agenda is covered, loosen up and brainstorm fun ideas, theme-related jokes, and costume ideas. Get all of your teammates' and prospective teammates' email addresses. At least once a week send out an informative email on your race preparations, even if nothing's been done since last week. Try to communicate every week! Don't put up with flaky teammates, and don't think that they'll get better on their own. They won't. Make sure your teammates have a sense of humor and know that ChumpCar is the place to let it show. Don't be an donkey-hole to other teams, who knows they may have some parts that could put you back on the track. Make some team memorabilia, such as team membership cards, t-shirts, framed team photos, photo CDs, DVDs of the race video, calendars with half-naked women (or men) posing with your car. When it comes to working on the car don't let team members confuse input with ownership. Only the car owner should pay for any part that goes on the car, and only the garage owner should pay for any tool you need. It is a very wise idea to have a set amount up front that everyone will pitch in on the car with the car owner actually doing the ordering and paying. If you go over the amount, the car owner takes up the slack, which is why he has the final say-so on what work gets done on the car. Learn to delegate. You can't be the whole team by yourself unless your name is Spank. Lean on your teammates. Break everything down into tasks they can help with. One of the rules of leadership is that you only put one person in charge of a task. If you put two people in charge each will think the other has it covered. For instance, put one person in charge of getting the theme work done. They have every right to ask others to help, but they are responsible for making sure it gets done. Who are you going to put in charge of your theme? The most artistic person who is the least mechanically inclined. Put one person in charge of researching what wheel/tire combo will fit on your car and finding the least expensive, lightest, most sticky solution. If you have a cage builder, put that one person in charge of getting the cage built. If you don't have a cage builder, put your most reliable person in charge of getting the cage done - the cage is going to be the biggest part of the build. Going to the race: Remember that packing list I mentioned earlier? Put it in action! Pack an extra copy of the packing list to use on the way home. Get plastic tubs that you can zip-tie the lids shut. Pack spare coolant hoses, fuel hoses, any spare brake parts you can find, belts, a spare set of tires, and most importantly, any tech data you can get your hands on. Even if you have a thorough knowledge of your car, it's wise to have a good manual on hand. You never know what you'll forget in the heat of the moment. Pack all the spare parts you might need for your car. If you have spare room in your tow rig and you have any really common parts laying around (spare Holley 4 barrel, generic fuel pump, gasket material) strongly consider bringing them as barter material. You'd be surprised how many teams run around looking for spare battery cables when their cut-off switches fail tech. Plan out meals and lodging in advance. Stopping by the local Wal-Mart on Friday morning with a fuzzy idea of buying a tent and some food doesn't count as planning. Simple planning is 1 package of Pop-Tarts, 2 sub sandwiches, 4 waters, and 2 Gatorades per person per day. Pack a small grill, plenty of grilling food, and an ice chest full of beer for dinner. Know where everyone is staying before you leave for the race, and make sure everyone has everyone else's phone number. Water is under rated. Bring as much as you can. If it is a hot weekend you will be surprised at how much you will drink, and how quickly you can become dehydrated. Finding that out halfway through a 2 hour driving shift is not good. If at all possible, caravan. Nothing sucks worse on a 6 hour tow than breaking down 5 hours away from the track while your teammates are pulling into the paddock. If you have a second vehicle available that is capable of towing the trailer, seriously consider bringing it in case the primary vehicle fails. At the race: What to expect (and do) for Tech Inspection, Registration and Gear Check at your first ChumpCar event: For racers and race teams new to the ChumpCar World Series, the process of getting through technical inspection, registration, gear inspection and driver’s school may seem a bit foreign. ChumpCar’s process is atypical (some say back-asswards), as compared to the SCCA, NASA or some other race orgs. Why? Because we’re trying to save you time and money, and we’re trying to save you from having to undergo repeated hassles from well-intentioned race officials… who (although doing their best, they still get stressed out once and a while) really do want to make your experience at the track, and theirs, more enjoyable. First and foremost, read ChumpCar’s rules. Then, read them again and, this time, apply a highlighter felt pen to every section that you either have questions about or that you feel might be a concern (based on the car you have chosen to run or the modifications that you want to make when building the car). Most questions can be answered by going to the ChumpCar World Series “Forum†and posting your questions to the membership. They’ve “been there and done that†and provide some reasonable answers. Also, send an e-mail to your Regional Director and ask him/her for the official response. Next, read and re-read the Supplemental Rules for every event that you enter. Print out copies of the race schedule and understand the specific rules as they apply to the various race tracks. Some tracks allow outside fuel to be brought in; some don’t. Some events will have safety breaks; some won’t. Every event is different and it’s YOUR responsibility to know what, where and when. Also, develop a check-list – documents and log-book, equipment, tools, spare parts, driver gear, personal needs, etc. On that check-list, you should have two line items that say, “(1) Print out all tech forms and bring all documents; (2) Research local junkyards and auto parts stores.†Have all of your documents, log-book, vehicle notebook, tech and registration forms printed and filled-out before you reach the track. And, call ahead and see what yards and stores carry parts for your 1983 Yugo, so you’ll know who to call and where to go when you need parts. Okay, so you’re packed up and at the front gate of the track. It’s 12:00 noon on Friday and they just opened the gate for teams to access the paddock. Here’s what you’ll do to get started: · Sign the gate waiver. Everybody has to sign. · Drive into the paddock at 15mph (don’t get thrown out of the track before you even get inside) and find a paddock spot. Allow room for you to unload the car but don’t hog-up space. There will be lots of other teams joining you. · Unload the car and immediately get the car in-line for Technical Inspection. Yes, ChumpCar does tech inspection FIRST, not registration. Why? Because if the car doesn’t pass tech, then the rest of the process is worthless. That’s a waste of your time and ours. Also, if the car doesn’t pass tech, you’ll need all the time you can get to take the car back to the paddock and repair the issues. Don’t waste that precious hour doing registration and gear inspection – get the car right. · At tech, have your tech forms and any necessary value documents ready and in-order. Have one (1) person be the team’s spokesperson – not 5 people giving 5 different answers to the tech inspector’s questions. Once you’ve passed tech inspection, you’ll be handed your tech sheet with your penalty lap assessment (if applicable). The tech inspector may also make some notes in your vehicle log book. While the team is pushing the car back to the paddock, the Team Captain or team representative should take the tech sheet to registration. · At registration, the Team Captain/team representative will provide the registrar the tech sheet. The registrar will pull your team’s entry file. If you have any driver changes to make, add a crew member, or owe a balance on the entry fee, all of that will be addressed right there. However, if your team roster has dramatically changed or if your team roster was never filled-out (on-line, as it should have been), you will be instructed to take a printed entry form, get out of the registration line, go fill-out the form, and then get back in line (at the back!). · If you need to buy a log book or tech stickers, buy a competition license, etc., all of that can be handled at registration. A log-book is required for every car. Typically, a log book will last 1-2 years. A competition license is required of every driver and must be renewed annually. Yes, there will be certain things that you’ll need to buy at registration if this is your first event, so be prepared for it. We’re not sucking every last dime out of you... most of these are once-a-year purchases. · If your team is renting a transponder from ChumpCar for the event, that will also be handled at registration. Hopefully, you reserved one and pre-paid for it with your on-line entry form. If not, pay for one at registration. · Once you’ve completed registration, you’ll be handed a Team Packet. Inside you’ll find all of your driver and crew wristbands, any vehicle pass stickers (some events limit the number of support vehicles allowed in the paddock), and any last minute schedule or event rules changes. Read everything carefully and hand out all of your team’s wristbands… or no one will be allowed in Saturday morning! · Okay, so you’ve gotten the car through tech and you’ve registered. You team has their wristbands. Now grab your driver’s gear and head to Gear Inspection (either individually or as a team). ChumpCar officials will inspect each driver’s suit, helmet, neck support device and support gear. Once approved, ChumpCar will place a decal on your helmet, allowing you access onto the track. If we don’t see the right decal on your helmet for that year, you will be stopped at Pit-Out and not allowed on-track. · Finally, if you’re totally new to road racing or it’s been a while since you raced (and you’ve been asked to take a refresher course), ask the kind and friendly folks at registration where the Driver’s School will be held. The time of the 1-hour class will be noted in the Supplemental Rules but you can always ask to double-check. Get to the classroom area at least 5 minutes early. Late arrivals are usually assessed a penalty of a case of Guinness. Miss the class and you may be restricted from racing. That’s it. That’s the entire front-end process. Tech, registration gear check and driver’s school… in that order. Now it’s time to get your head screwed-on straight and ready for some great racing. During the event: Treat the Officials with respect. They're putting their time and effort into making the event fun for everyone, and getting upset at them will never help your case. If you're involved in an on-track incident (or even an off-track incident), start by admitting your guilt. If you're not guilty, stop, reassess and figure out what you MIGHT be guilty of. Just because you don't agree with a call doesn't mean it isn't the right call. Repairs go faster when everybody is working what angle they can towards getting the car back on the track. If your pads need replacing but everyone is trying to cram into the engine bay to work on a water leak, grab the guy who's least needed under the hood who's also competent enough to slap pads and put him to work there. Need a tool? Grab the guy who's watching everything with a lost expression and send him on the mission. This goes doubly for pit-stops. Practice your pit stops before hand so that everyone knows how to do it. Running around like a bunch of headless chickens trying to get the car back on the track will raise tempers. Having a dedicated non-driving crew chief makes pit stops and repairs quicker. Give that person a numbered checklist of things to check before the car leaves the pits, like tire pressures, Cool Suit on, etc. Have them memorize it. Have them memorize the procedures for refueling, then have them stand back and supervise your drivers during the refueling process. Somebody screwing around with the car while they drivers are refueling? The crew chief should be chewing some tail. When repairs are going on, the crew chief should keep his hands clean and direct others in performing the tasks they're good at that will get the car back on the track the fastest. If it's your first race and you're in it to win it, good for you, but you better make sure your car is well sorted and you know how to drive well. If you have a couple of races under your belt, have a well sorted car, a set of good drivers, and have your pitstops well-orchestrated, then try and win it. Otherwise just turn laps and have a good time! Make sure your drivers understand it's an endurance race and not a sprint. Nothing sucks more than having a 50th place driver blow the motor trying to win it all in his stint. And I'd call that a lunch hour well spent. If someone wants to post up a checklist to use, or even as a general guideline that would be very helpful. For your regional info: With the creation of the new regional management teams, we're now able to provide more and better resources to answer your rules, vehicle, event and other ChumpCar-related questions, with faster response times. So, depending on what region you live in, save the appropriate e-mail address for ALL of your ChumpCar questions: infoeast@chumpcar.com infocentral@chumpcar.com infowest@chumpcar.com Updated: Checklist is now attached. This is merely a guideline and you will probably have things you want to add or remove from it. Available through the link below. ChumpcarChecklist.pdf
  3. 1976 Alfa Romeo GTV: ~50/50 weight distribution (transmission is in the rear like a 944)***Not Running***Includes:+ Non-running 4 cylinder / 2 liter motor *Needs bottom-end AND head rebuild*+working transmission/transaxle+ suspension was in working order when last raced+ roll bar+ racing seat+ everything except the carbs (see below)+ 4 Monza Alfa Romeo wheels (currently mounted on car)+ Aftermarket electronic ignition+ remote-mount oil filter + Not included: 40DCOE weber carbs not included (see below)Also available+ Pair of Weber 40DCOE Carbs (with Racecar only; not sold separately) +$450+ Heavy duty plastic bin (full of free spares) +$10
  4. FOR SALE - everything you need to go LeMons/CHUMP car racing After 2 great years, Team BAD TEETH RACING are selling everything we have in 1 package--If you want to start crapcan racing, there is no easier or cheaper way to get started!!! Complete package includes: 1994 1.6 Miata chump car with full chump documentation and chump log book + MN State Title (yes this racecar has a title and a log book!!!) We competed in 8 races and finished every single one inc 24 hrs of VIR. This is rock solid car which will get you to the finish every time Engine -1.6L Spec Miata engine for reliability. Super healthy engine! --compression test done after last event was 192 psi +/- 2 psi across the board. Doesn't consume any oil, even after 24 hours of track abuse. --Leak down test also done after last event was less than 15% all four cylinders. -New NGK spark plugs and Magnecor 8mm racing spark plug wires -New gates accessory belt -Racing beat exhaust with test pipe -Performance air intake -Air intake heat shield Cooling (all items listed below replaced at the beginning of the season and in excellent condition) -New OEM radiator -New OEM water pump (cannot stress OEM enough as aftermarket water pumps can cause cavitation under race conditions leading to overheating) -New OEM cooling hoses -New radiator cap Drivetrain -New clutch slave cylinder -Centerforce clutch -Torsen LSD Electronics -MyLaps hardwired transponder -Autometer water temp gauge -Autometer shift light -White LED dome light with dash switch to aid in night time driver changes -Cool suit wiring with lit dash switch installed (cool suit, cooler and hoses not included) -Chumpcar required Optima Red Top battery -3x extra 12v connections in the dash and on the roll bar for camera power Brakes -Rebuilt calipers all four corners -New master cylinder -Stainless steel braided brake Lines -Hawk DTC-60 front pads -Hawk DTC-30 rear pads Suspension -ARP extended wheel studs -Eibach springs -Koni struts -Ground control coil sleeves -Front sway bar with reinforced mounting points -Rear sway bar -Adjustable sway bar endlinks -OEM manual steering rack Safety -8pt roll cage with extended door bars on both sides -Required roof and window nets -New SPA Design Firesense 4L fire suppression system with internal/external pull handles -Master battery kill with internal/external pull handles -FIA rated Momo racing seat mounted low on sliders for tall and short drivers -5 point G-Force camlock racing harness -Small dish racing steering wheel -Lexan 1/4 windows in both doors Miscellaneous parts -New fuel pump -NACA duct in drivers 1/4 window for great ventilation Team -1x 10'x10' ez-up canopy -1x folding table -2x folding chairs -1x set of 4 stackable shelves to store driver gear and parts -1x dry erase board for jotting racing log info (fastest lap/driver in-out times) -1x 10lb bucket of oil dry -3x catch pans -1x broom/dust pan -1x can of glass cleaner -4x can of brake clean -1x box of gloves -1x Haynes repair manual 1990-1997 Miata/MX-5 -1x The Spec Miata Constructors Manual by Dave Wheeler -1x large rubbermaid tote for most items listed above -Chumpcar log book -MN State Title (yes this racecar has a title and a log book!!!) Spares -2 full sets of 15" wheels wrapped in 205/50R15 BFG Rival tires with life left on them -1 set of 14" wheels with 195/60R14 Falken RT615k tires -5-speed transmission -2 sets of BRAND NEW Hawk DTC-30 rear pads -2 sets of BRAND NEW rear rotors -Multiple sets of half warn pads and rotors for front and rear -2x axle shafts -1x ignition coil pack -1x radiator cap -1x gas cap -1x oil cap -spare hood pins (both latches and pins) -many spare OEM eccentric bolts for lower a-arms -mant spare OEM suspension bolts -2x NEW front hub/wheel bearing assemblies --Current hubs/bearings are fine but it's good to have spares -Many extra front/rear upper/lower a-arms for an extra $500, we will include radios -1X Motorola CDM750 Base unit --50 watt base unit installed in the car -2x Motorola Radius P1225 with rapid chargers --5 watt handheld radios -Rugged Radios push to talk button in car -Rugged Radios car harness -1X behind the head headset for the crew chief -1X Laird technologies Phantom Elite shark fin antenna If you want to start crapcan racing, there is no easier or cheaper way to get started!!! We are located in West Chester PA, in the Philly Suburbs
  5. I am new to this whole cheap...ish...racing thing and am looking into both ChumpCar World Series and LeMons racing, but I live in AZ, and most my friends that are willing to drive and join my team still live in CA and I travel for work (Construction), so it makes it hard for everyone to get a decent amount of seat time in the race car, and deciding on a central race to ease traveling costs on everyone also seems like it will be a hassle... so I was wondering are there any race clubs or series that are on the cheaper side like ChumpCar and LeMons that are not endurance races? that a solo or two driver teams can do? any cheap car rally cross or rally series? I am hooked on this ChumpCar World Series but not so sure my mates are and I would like to get all in on racing. Thank you for taking the time to read this post and for any and all advice given. Ronnie
  6. Hey everyone I'm Ron, I just found out about this thing called ChumpCar and LeMons racing 2 days ago, at age 35 and loving to drive cars fast you would think I would have found this by now but you know... Anyways I am looking to get my first Chumper and start building her up in hopes to spin her tires around the track for the first time in 2018 (Is a year - year and a half reasonable for a first time build?) I am on here today asking for advice on what is a good car to start with, though I know many have their own personal preferences on make and models, or engine size and weight, I am looking to get a more overall picture of what cars are easy to work on and build. Honda civics are a dime a dozen with an endless about of parts and after market upgrades and they are pretty easy to work on, but is it better to go for one that runs good from the start with a higher liter engine staring me at a higher VPI like a Ford Mustang needing little to no upgrades, or a car that runs good but has a small liter engine starting me with a lower VPI, leaving room for more up grades like a Toyota Tercel? As far as the build itself goes, I went school for a general bumper to bumper exp. we worked on everything except transmissions (Though it was the biggest section in the 600+ page curriculum), I tore 4 cylinder/ V-6/ V-8 engines down as far as possible and put them completely back together every day for a good month (The engines never got started so I am a little nervous about timing belts/ chains) we studied and removed and replace everything (Non- Body) on the cars from tires to ball joints, drum and disk breaks, tie rods, shocks, struts, coil overs, you name it. After I graduated, I worked at a Midas in Santa Clarita, California for a couple years where again I did so much more than just oil changes, tires and alignments, I replaced more valve covers and oil pans than I can counts, I have spent more time upside down in the driver seat of a car chasing electrical issues and brake switches, I have dropped a number of transmissions (Midas shipped them to trans shops to be re-built) and I have continued to work on my cars and trucks even after I left Midas. so overall I feel confidant to build my first Chumper myself and with the help of my gear head friends, and the few things I can't do I will take to a shop if they need to be fixed like a transmission. ok enough rambling from me below are some questions I have after looking into this for only two days, I want to thank everyone for taking the time to read this, and for any help that is offered up, I look forward to this journey and am excited about taking the first steps today. I am budgeting $5000.00 for this build (Just the build, not racing fees or gear) is that a good amount or is that too low? Once I have a car, what upgrades are worth spending the extra points? (exhaust, headers, ecu...) What upgrades are not worth spending points on? (adjustable coil overs, sway bars...) Do any weight reductions cost point? (I didn't see anything in section 4 of the rules about weight reduction, but i only read through it once) What are good things to remove from a car to reduce the weight? Automatic or Manuel Transmission? everyone was a first time racer, or built their first car, or put their first team together, what were the things you found difficult your first few times out? what things were simple? What things caught you off guard? Any other advice a first timer should know or consider? p.s. sorry if this is hard to read, English and Grammar were not my strong suits in school...
  7. I was preparing this car for ITR. Selling to make room in the garage. Many more pictures on my Google drive. Send me your email and I will give you access to the pictures. Please email: pdohara@sbcglobal.net I used the car for track days over the last 3 years. Car has been very reliable. Never had an issue driving to and from the track. Gearbox rebuilt and LSD installed by Mueller motorowerks in 2014. 124,000 miles. All fluids checked regularly Modifications include: Professionally rebuilt gearbox performed by Mueller Motorwerks MFactory limited slip differential Clutch masters clutch and flywheel KYB MacPherson struts front Koni Yellow shocks rear Whiteline rear sway bar AEM cold air intake Invidia exhaust system Enkei RPF1 wheels 17x7 Dunlop Direzza star spec tires 225/45 R17 - purchased August 2016 Autopower bolt in roll cage Gutted interior painted black sunroof delete Sparco Evo seat The car could be maintained and driven as is or you could develop it further. The motor is completely stock other than the AEM intake.
  8. Hey there, I'm new to the series and road racing outside of Auto-x things (GTI Mk7) . I live in the Syracuse area, I would like to volunteer my services if possible. I love to race and have been working on cars (to only break them and fix again) since I was 16. If you are a team in the area that could use a hand in any way let me know. Its winter time so lots of off track work is happening I assume. I figure thats the best time to get involved and learn more about what it takes rather than just showing up at WGI expecting to hop in an open seat. I'm waiting for WGI/NYST around here to update their schedules so I can get some more HPDE time as well. Hope to see some of you out there! cheers
  9. Hi everyone, I'm posting this for my uncle. I'm a regular on the MK6 forums, but this is his world. There are 3 cars for sale as shown in the pics below. The silver rx7 is the parts car. Yellow and purple rx7 IS SCCA ITS Red rx7 chump/other racing series car Silver rx7 parts car There are too many additional spare parts included to list. $11,500. Please call Charlie for all of the details. Phone: 248-730-1249 Location: Novi/New Hudson, MI
  10. Hey, everyone! If anyone is looking for an extra driver, I would love to help with that. I am currently an ITA driver in CFR SCCA and LOVE Daytona. Send me a message. Thanks! And, by the way, if you haven't seen the new movie about Paul Newman, called "Winning: The Racing Life of Paul Newman," watch it! Here is my driving history...not much but always looking to drive some more! CREDENTIALS S.C.C.A. Full Competition License Florida Driver License RACING EXPERIENCE Skip Barber MX-5 3-Day Racing School Graduate Sebring Turkey Trot 2014- ITA Class Sebring Cabin Fever 2015- ITA Class Daytona Classic 2015- ITA Class Daytona Classic Endurance Race 2015- ITA Class PERFORMANCE DRIVING EXPERIENCE Performance Driving Group Instructor at Daytona and PBIR Hooked on Driving Instructor at PBIR PDG 200 Level Daytona/PBIR S.C.C.A. Autocross Instructor/Daytona (Central Florida/Will) S.C.C.A. Autocross Solo events S.C.C.A. PDX Intermediate/Advance group NASA Hyperdrive participant NASA HPDE participant Celebration Exotic Car Festival Rally for multiple years South Florida Toys Rally Suncoast Motorsports Toys for Tots Rally TAG Karts
  11. PRICE LOWERED FOR THE OREGON RACE $2900!!! For sale is our turn-key and running 1987 fox-body Mustang turbo racing car for the 2013 season. It is documented and purchased for $500. It has the 2.3 Ford Turbo Coupe 4 cylinder engine w/ T-5 manual transmission. The car was built specifically for use in LeMons, Chump Car and Rat Race style events. It can also be used for any number of regulation race events (Team Continental, SCCA, NASA, Auto Cross). Thousands of dollars and hundreds of man hours have been invested on the numerous upgrades in both safety and performance. These include: The roll cage was professionally built & installed by The Fab Shop (Portland OR), a recently rebuilt 2.3 Turbo (from a 1988 Ford TC), It has the desirable 34mm body & eekIV module, WITH INTERCOOLER. - aftermarket external oil cooler with filter, a T-5 5 speed transmission with new clutch, Posi-Traction rear end with 3:55 gearing for excellent road racing manners (the car can go very fast), the suspension is where this car really excels. It has a close ratio manual rack with u-jointed steering shaft. HD cut GT springs with upgraded front & rear sway bars, upgraded struts and bushings. The braking system has a professionally installed brake controller with balance wheel placed for driver use. The brake and wheel systems are over sized (from a late model Ford Explorer) front and rear discs on upgraded 16" wheels, custom exhaust system, Carboline HD paint, plus many more race prepped items such as brake ducting, new seat belt restraint system and a kickass aluminum race seat, electrical system for a cool suit. Also comes with an entire set of extra tires and wheels (with good rubber). Spare T-5 five speed trans and a back-up normally aspirated 2.3 engine plus various other items etc. etc... Since adding the TC turbo motor, the car has performed well and completed every race it has entered (Reno Fernley, PIR, ThunderHill, ORP, Chump Car and LeMons events). It has two top 10% finishes. Car and Driver suggests spending $7500 to $10,000 to build a chump/lemons car. Not including hundreds of man hours labor. PM or email for more pictures and details ps... Car is in Portland OR. thank you
  12. Hey guys finally got my chump car, It's a 95 Escort GT but has the 1.9 Swapped in. It's fully caged, 5 Speed Stick, Has seat, and is stripped! I went into this with 2 other guys, they are drivers, I am too but I will be handling all of the mechanical. I still need to go through the car, re-do the suspension, and prep it for the track. Also make it look cooler with some paint. This is a top 5 car as-is but with our combined racing experience it should be a winner. We do not have any open seats yet.. Want to get familiar with the car, team, and how the events go first. However we will have open seats once we get in the groove, just wanted to let you guys know another team is available for seating! Take care! Please contact me, I'm based in Whitmore Lake, MI
  13. The AC Schnitzel team is looking to expand our renters pool! After fast and reliable performances at our last 3 endurance races, we have decided to tow/trek down to race at the legendary Daytona course on May 26th! We have a rental seat available and a very affordable package. The date is approaching quickly, and we would very much like to add another satisfied renter to the team ASAP! Please shoot us a message, along with driving resume, if you or someone you know is interested. The car is a 1991 BMW 318. It is honestly the most fun car I have driven on track and the team atmosphere is great. The other three drivers are Mike D'Abreu (former Mid-Atlantic Spec3 champ), Anders Skandsen (former Mid-Atlantic Spec3 champ), and Jason Stephens (former SpecE30 driver and 6th place champ:) PM me if you're interested and we can discuss the cost and other details. https://www.facebook...hnitzel?fref=ts Jason jls8177 (at) yahoo (dot) com
  14. Here we have a nice condition 2001 Ford Focus Wagon. Zetec / Auto. This was acquired by a friend who then later realized he had been duped, as it does not have a title. Thusly, it is listed here as a parts car or race car/show car, and cannot be driven on any public streets. NO I don't have a title, NO you can't get one, NO you cannot ask me if you can to get one. NO IT DOES NOT HAVE A TITLE NO YOU CANNOT GET ONE. OK, now that we got that out of the way, onto the car. She's a nice condition ride with little to no rust. Never been wrecked. CD Silver. PW, PL, Cruise, Side airbags. Would make an awesome road race, autocross, circle track or drag car. Would be awesome for a Chump or Lemons entrant. Maybe buy the Kugel Komponents kit and put a V8 in it! If you're not aware, wagons were the identical wheelbase as any other Foci (zx3, ZX5, sedan), and there was little to no weight penalty (rumored to be 50 pounds heavier than a ZX3 in full street trim), especially once gutted, so it would be just as good a race car as any other Foci. I also had plans to cut the roof off, put a wooden bed on and make it a yard/utility vehicle. Be the first of your neighbors to have one!!! Could also use her for parts! Ran and drove great when it got here some 2 odd years ago, so engine/trans/running gear/suspension/brakes are all in good usable condition. I have robbed a few body panels, but replaced most all of them with "race car quality" items. So yes, fenders, hood, both bumpers, headlights, core support, grill were stolen, but I've put usable parts in their place that may not be cosmetically perfect but would do just fine for a racecar. Doors are all still nice, glass is all good. Interior is mostly all there and in nice shape. Items I've removed are the coolant bottle, radiator hose manifold, AC condensor, Battery box, some fuses and relays, the d/s mirror, d/s airbag, center console, the vents from the dash, the light switch, stereo, passenger seat, tail lights, fuel pump and ECU. I have damn near all of these parts available in my stash from other vehicles though, so should the car need any of the above (in its next usage), I will include it for you. No you dont get the SVT 5 spokes on it, will be on steel rollers. email and make me an offer Could be made a running driving car in a few hours. NOT wrecked. NOT rusty. Take her home today!!! Located at the Massive Speed HQ here in Spring Grove, IL. Can accept CASH, money order, Visa/MC, Discover or Paypal. Remember, dont ask me if you can get a title. If I could get one, I would have done so already, and be driving it as we speak! kt@massivespeedsystem.com with questions.
  15. Hey there folks! Road Atlanta was COOOOOLLD! My first experience with ChumpCar. You guys have some crazy rides! Good racing though. I was there for the Saturday race from beginning to end and took tons of photos. I am no slouch, my work is seen regularly in GRM and SportsCar Magazine as well as on SCCA.com and SoloMatters. 2000 (yes, you read that right!) Pics from Saturday are posted in 2 Galleries on my website- http://www.perrybennett.com A good many of them are the Hong Norrth MX-3s since they are my buddies, but there are several great shots of everyone else's car(s) too. If you are interested in purchasing high-res versions of the photos, please email/paypal me at photo[a]perrybennett.com with a link to the photo(s) you want. Prices are: 1 for $10 2 for $15 3 for $20 You can also find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/perrybennettphotography where one of the Chump teams is my Photo of the Week! ~Perry Bennett Motorsports Photographer />http://www.perrybennett.com
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