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Found 11 results

  1. Posting this here for my other half, she wants to get rid of her grandfathers old Chevy S10. Reason for posting here is I don't think the vehicle is worth much to someone looking for an actual ride, but for a Champ or other team looking for parts, or specifically, an engine, then it might be a good find. Friends and I have considered turning into a Champ or lemon car but we already have 3 so we'll pass. It's the engine we want really. 1989 Chevy S10 pickup. 4.3 liter engine. Has automatic transmission. Not sure if you care about that or if you can mod it for a manual, I don't do Chevy's. Engine runs like a champ and only has 33k miles on it. Engine seems to run real well. Truck itself has an exhaust leak around the headers and would need the brakes bled but otherwise is a usable vehicle. I would not consider this truck for hauling any loads of ANY kind. The northern Ohio weather has not been kind to the frame/chassis. Would probably need strengthening at a few spots. Mainly posting on this site as someone might want the engine. Asking $750.00 obo and would need to be picked up in the Akron, OH area. Would be glad to participate in a hauling service from my end if that's what you want to do. I'm not going to pull this engine, this is sold as a whole package. pics were too large to upload here. Reply with email address and I'll forward pictures. Thanks!!!!!
  2. Hi All, Everything is sold. Everyone thought the race ready engine was too expensive over the winter until they blew their own engine via the Spring races. - Race ready engine - SOLD - Our Second engine has all the same new parts installed but has a leaking head gasket and most likely overheated. Will sell for $900.00. We built both of these engines at the same time in parallel. - SOLD Other parts we have that are being liquidated: - TRMotorsport C1 E30 wheels 15x7 from Tire Rack. $50 each. Total of 4 - SOLD - Z3M Rear diff. 3.23 limited slip 91,000 miles. $700.00 - SOLD!! - E30 Light weight flywheel (Clutch Masters FX400 Clutch Kit - 03010-HDC6) with new heavy duty JB Racing clutch. $650.00 - SOLD! - BMW E30 Rebuilt drive shaft. $350.00 - SOLD - Rear sub frame assembly with trailing arms, Spec E30 camber/toe adjusters, newer output shafts, stock bushings, wheel bearings, SS brake lines, newish calipers, rotors. $750.00. - SOLD PM me with questions. All items are located in Burnsville, MN.
  3. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.... Number 6 piston is just gravel. Lots of metal everywhere - intake, exhaust, every cylinder, head. Most of the cams have scoring on them. Two holes in the block plus one in the oil pan. Two snapped rods. Everything in the bottom end is real banged up thanks to the piston gravel that went flying everywhere. Probably 8 bent valves. No real evidence of what failed beyond a spun bearing on the number six cylinder (I think the number 3 rod went because of all the metal debris in the top end - collateral damage). Based on google, I'd guess we've had an elongated bearing cap that caused premature wear somehow...all the other bearings looked fine, so seems oil pressure was okay. Was definitely full of oil before it went out and our driver was only about 5 laps in when it went.
  4. Hey Guys, I have a (potentially) very competitive project car listed on an eBay Motors Auction ( search 2001 BMW M3 none) Have one to sell? Sell now 2001 BMW M3 none . The car is a BMW 2001 E46 I bought it with low mileage ?? carfax says normal miles and I can't argue Carfax. It already has over 100 hours of work into the interior and chassis and it comes with over $30k in parts purchased just last year 2016- 2017. Many but not all of the parts are listed on the ebay listing - there is some of a stroker kit included but no engine. Please go look at the listing and call me anytime to talk about it. The car and all the parts are located in a building in Jupiter Florida and I am open to inspection visits. The bid is at $6k right now with a reserve and a buy it now price of $20k but that BIN is a flexible price. I tried to list all my stuff here once before and failed miserably so sorry to those of you that showed interest previously but here is your chance in a more organized fashion.
  5. Before my old Miata went bye bye, I pulled a lot of good stuff out of it, some of which is being using in the new build, but the motor is not. It's a 1.8 stock motor, decked head and block, new valves 4 races ago, and is simply a tremendous motor. I have a dyno sheet for it done a few years ago. I'm selling the longblock complete for $700, including both manifolds, alternator. A/C and power steering pump deleted long ago. I'm in Denver, if you want shipping you'd have to arrange it, but this should be a plug and play motor. We had the fastest lap time at Laguna in November last year among Miatas by almost a second, at 1:52, and there was more in the car but I got rain. Other parts available: radiator starter water pump belts ECU MAF Come and get this. Cross-posted in various places, first come, first served.
  6. I've rented seats a few times over the last few years and now I'm considering entering my own car. I've been looking at the 2017 rules. Among other things, I looked for information about engine mods. I can't find anything that gives a noob (actually fielding a car for the first time) any guidance at all regarding basic things like head shaving or port matching (except for posts in the forum). I even searched the rules document for every instance of "engine" and "machining". But from reading the forum, I find info about engines being built and engine mods discussed so I guess it is allowed and legal. Do basic machining mods incur points? How are they handled - or are you free do anything with no points as long as you use a stock part? I feel like I'm missing some basic info from somewhere. Can someone fill me in or point me in the right direction? Is there a section of the rule book I'm missing?
  7. Languishing in my garage is a near complete (less intake manifold) Ford 5.0 from a 1998? Mercury Mountaineer and Tbird IRS that I purchased the engine from a salvage yard years ago for a Factory Five project that morphed into a kitchen remodel. I have decided to carry more Alfa transaxle spares and need to make room in the garage. Someone low ball me and come get the stuff. I'd rather see it go to a Chump than some Craigslist killer.
  8. Hi guys, I'm going to start this off with the fact that I've never been to a wheel to wheel race, Chump or not. But! some friends and I had the terrible idea to do Chump racing... I had been sitting on an E36 for quite a while and decided to use it (325 sedan). I bought the car from a guy who had been in a small accident and had to replace the passenger doors. This accident broke the passenger side windows and rain got in and got right to work rusting out the floor boards beneath the carpet, mwop mwop. With no where acceptable to mount the cage, or even the seats, we started to look for another car to use. We found another 325 sedan(!) with a rackety engine. Now my question is, the drive train between the two cars is identical... if we put the engine from the first car into the new rust free(ish) car, do we take an MPV hit? In the rules, specifically "Powertrain Swaps", it says that an engine swap for reliability is due for a penalty, but it also says the formula applies to "non-standard" equipment as outlined in 4.3 which talks about "non-stock" components. We don't plan on being in the realm of competitive our first few times out, that being said, we'd also like to not have to have like 10 penalty laps. Thanks, Evan
  9. We appeared at our first ever Chump Race this past weekend at Road America and blew our one and only engine in our car 2 hours into the first race. Hard lesson learned but we were wanting to know if, by chance, any local/regional Chumpsters know a guy/gal who specializes in Honda engine rebuilds? Ours is a D16Y8. #3 cylinder rod bearing disintegrated. I can travel a few hours in all directions which gets me from Indy, Cleveland, Cinci, Louisville, Detroit, and even Pittsburg. Now we know to beef up the cooling and lubrication system instead of running pure stock, lol. Thanks
  10. Hey guys so I've got bail on my glorious chump plans, so I've got a ZX2 torn down that I've got to get rid of. Ready to be chumpified!! I'll post some pics tonight, but here's the list of stuff that is probably of value to any ZX2 teams: Shell, completely stripped down, sound deadening and rust is all out as well...we just started patching in the rust holes... Front suspension Zetec engine, strong runner, hasn't been apart yet Manual transmission stock wheels doors (passenger side is skinned) truck lid front fenders hood radiator and fan ECU used set of BFG Rivals I can probably be paid for most of this stuff in beer, and would love to have someone swing in with a trailer and pick up a good chunk of it all at once. I don't have much into this stuff, so I don't need to get much out of it. Just make me an offer and we'll work something out. Beers of choice: Pretty much anything from New Belgium, New Glarious Spotted Cow, Wisconsin Brew Co Amber Lagger....just sayin...
  11. I'm consider acquiring a mostly built '92 Prelude. The body is technically a base model/S. The current owner has swapped in a F23A1 engine from a Acura CL (150hp) with the factory ECU/harness. The transmission is out of a VTEC/SR-V. The rules state the values are as follows: Prelude / S - $300 Si /SE - $400 Si H23 - $450 VTEC - $600 As for swapping out components, price-wise a quick search suggests the F23A1 engine is as follows: F22A1 < F23A1 H23A1 > F23A1 H22A1 > F23A1 Depending on how the car was considered I could see the engine being a $50 surcharge for a lesser value engine. Thoughts? I'm not sure what to say about the transmission. Would it knock the car of contention?
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