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Found 7 results

  1. I have a spare 4 liter fire bottle for sale can be picked up at champcar event at Road America in April looking for $150 stored inside in winter fully charged
  2. So I had an incident last Sunday that could have been real bad. Actually, scratch that, it involved a fire so it was real bad, but it could have been much worse. I'm going to share some of the details with the chump community so hopefully this does not happen to anyone else, especially since the specific issue did not seem to come up in the previous few threads about battery containers and hold down straps. So what happened? At our last race (Laguna Seca in July) we had a CV joint bushing explode on Saturday, which smothered our alternator to death in axle grease, which lead to us swapping the battery in and out of the car a few times during the race on Sunday (we didn't have a spare alternator, but we did have a bunch of vehicles in the paddock with perfectly good batteries...). After the race, we put the original battery back in the car, but in the rush to get everything packed up and get home it seems that we did not attach both ends of the metal battery tie down strip. I towed the car home (2 hours) that night and put the car in the garage, no issue with the battery. I spent the last two months going through our todo list for the car (alternator replacement, led trailer lights, new dashboard, etc.), no issue with the battery. I towed the car one hour to one of my teammates house last Sunday, I get out to unload the car from the trailer and everything on the car is fine except... there is a pile of burnt and melted plastic sitting in a pool of acid where the battery used to be. Everything else was fine, didn't melt or even darken the lexan rear hatch. What (do I think) was the root cause? So I'm posting before and after photos. The before is from a few years ago when we first built our box. You can see we have two long bolts which are connected to a metal plate below the box and attached to a metal plate with wingnuts. It's not shown here, but we also had rubber battery terminal covers over both posts, and a lid that snapped in place. As you can see in the after photo, the metal plate (which is grounded, since it's attached to the frame) slid to the right, under the rubber terminal cover, and shorted the battery. Search for "car battery short fire" on youtube if you want to know what happened after that. What should we all do about it? Never leave your battery unattached, especially when moving the car, especially if you are securing your battery with a system like we were using here. Don't assume those rubber or plastic terminal covers will protect you from a short. We tend to focus on safety during the race and relax afterwards, but this is something that can happen at anytime if you make a mistake like this. I'm going to add this to my checklist whenever I move the car now. Now that we have to rebuild our battery box, I'm thinking of ways we can design a mount where this can't happen. Maybe a hinge secured with multiple bolts on one side so the strap can't rotate, or covering the strap completely with an insulator. Looking for thoughts or ideas, preferably with photos of everyone else's much more secure unburnt battery boxes.
  3. A couple of old and/or inconsequential threads inspired me to collect some thoughts in a place that people are likely to find it. I will start with the high level point and then include some supporting info. A shout out to @skierman64 and @Hi_Im_Will for their input on this. SUMMARY: All car owners that don't have rear "glass" installed (i.e. lexan) should strongly consider installing it. Reasons: It may save a life. The lack of side and rear windows causes the windshield to create a low pressure area where the driver is sitting and can suck fire (or Carbon Monoxide) into the cockpit. This isn't a hypothetical - both have happened and one of them was a very close call. Had the car owner not been young, nimble, and very familiar with his car, he would have been badly injured or killed. It may make your car faster. In almost all cases, you will reduce drag by putting the rear "glass" back in. (Note, I am not talking about cars that have no front "glass"). It drastically reduces the amount of rain/mist that swirls into the cockpit, and will make driving in wet conditions safer and more enjoyable. There are reasons why the rules used to tell you to remove your glass, but events that have happened since then have provided data to suggest that the reasoning was misguided. I'm not going to write a novel on that - you can find it in other posts if you choose to look for it. I wasn't sure if just putting the back window in would do the job, so I consulted with Will. He shot me a bunch of impressive stuff and an interpretation that said having the side glass gave some benefit, but the vast majority of the benefit could be gained by the installation of just the rear glass. Here is the link to what happens if you don't have any glass other than the windshield and you have a fire: Here is some more of the backstory. It was posted in an E36 thread so I can't imagine very many people were reading it @skierman64 added this to the thread: "Oh, while you're at it, make sure all the holes in your firewall are sealed with some kind of metal or at least metallic tape. There was a under hood fire at COTA last year that got into the cabin of the car through firewall holes. The driver suffered some significant burns due to someone not prepping the car properly and sealing up firewall holes before the race." Here is the link to that incident, as well as a thread that went into the topic pretty well http://sopwithmotorsports.com/blog/short-track-racing/item/342-trapped-in-a-burning-race-car-part-i.html If you decide to blow off the suggestion, you may still want to consider getting this for your cockpit (thanks @Jamie). It will let your driver figure out whether or not the stuff coming into the cockpit will kill him (not fire, Carbon Monoxide) https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Multi-Level-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B003UDAHIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488932145&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+monoxide+detector+for+car My final safety item for the evening: I saw a car at VIR that had the fuel filler almost straight above the side-exhaust pipe. I assume they located the filler there (it wasn't the stock location) because they wanted to have the filler on the side nearest the pit wall (most tracks, that will be the passenger side). I assume they decided to exit the exhaust on the passenger side because it made for slightly less noise for the driver. Both decisions make sense when made alone, but when the inevitable "small spill" occurs we will have a very ugly situation on our hands. Please look at your car and make sure you aren't at risk for what follows below (OK so I MIGHT have exaggerated on this one!) In all seriousness, if the spill happens and a small fire ball erupts, the gas man could drop the dump can which would provide a LARGE fire ball that could affect a lot of people.
  4. <edit> add safeCraft Website Address - https://safecraft.com/index.php </edit> I purchased a 10 pound SafeCraft AT fire bottle from RaceProvenParts on eBay http://stores.ebay.com/raceprovenparts cost was way cheap. But it came with no instructions. So I called SafeCraft up and spoke with Steven Baker Steven Baker Safecraft Inc. 5165-C Commercial Circle Concord CA 94520 925-405-0307 FX: 925-405-0311 First off, if you buy one of these Automatic FE36 filled systems used DO NOT REMOVE the hose. I did not do that, but knowing how some guys are a bit slow, thought I would put this out first. The line is charged. Remove the tip and you get 10 pounds of FE36 gas in your face. So basically these used systems are designed for NASCAR fuel cell protection. Mount the bottle in the drivers compartment. Run the hose to the fuel cell area, mount it out of the way. Done. I was thinking of adding another nozzle to the engine bay, which you have to send the bottle back to them for modification. The automatic tip that NASCAR uses opens at 280 degrees F. If you are using it on the engine he suggested a 340 degree tip which they can do, but requires sending it back to them. I have a 5 pound SafeCraft LT bottle installed now with two nozzles going to the engine, fuel fill area inside my rear trunk and to the driver. I asked him about pointing the halon at the driver as per the CCWS rules. He laughed. Say ya, let me tell you how much 5 pounds of halon actually is! He said to do the following... 5 pound halon bottle in the passenger section. one nozzle NOT pointed at driver, but centralized. When activated it will instantly remove the air from the drivers area. If you point it at the drivers face it will freeze the face shield, and depending on the humidity will instantly fog the visor. He said that Mounting it on my center tunnel will be perfect. He said to add another nozzle for the engine bay, like I have now so that I am not dumping 5 pounds of halon into the small interior of the MR2. He said that was about twice as much that is needed for the MR2. The additional nozzle will reduce the pressure in the interior, which is good. He did say that the 10 pounds of FE36 is 10 times as much is as needed for the MR2. lol. But adding the 10 pound auto to my rear trunk where my fuel fill is, and the 5 pound protecting the engine and drivers compartment will be more than enough to allow the driver to get away in case of fire. The 10 pound AT FE36 SafeCraft systems are popping up on eBay for ~$200. SFI 17.1 cert... As long as the system is in the GREEN it is good for service. SFI certification is 6 years from original date of manufacture. If he bottle has a yellow date tag installed, carefully peel it back to expose date of manufacture. They can be inspected and refilled. hope this helps anyone looking for used systems
  5. As you know, fire systems are mandatory starting January 2014. As soon as I saw the new rule, I started looking for the best deal on quality fire equipment for Chumps. What I discovered, in my opinion, was that SPA Techniques offered the best value/quality combination I could find. The systems are FIA and SFI certified, and there's a system for every budget. They're standard equipment on racers like Porsche GT3 Cup cars. Then, I got in touch with SPA and told them what I wanted to do...to bring their product within reach of every ChumpCar team's budget. I'm proud to say that SPA was very supportive and enthusiastic about being a part of the grassroots racing community. They made it possible for me to offer their systems at even better prices to all you chumps. So....go to the website and check it out....2.25 liter AFFF system for $265. 4.0 liter AFFF system (2 liters to both the engine and the driver...twice the protection of "bargain" systems)...$325. Comparable systems sell for almost $500. www.racingfiresystems.com
  6. Just in time to help you meet the 2014 BCR ~~ VRO is pleased to announce we are adding the FireCharger brand fire suppression system to our line of products! The FireCharger 2.3L system: Is affordable at $299! Recharge/refill kits at $56 Lets you refill at the track! FireCharger is a non-pressurized system allowing for easy user refill Uses AFFF (Aqueous Film Forming Foam) technology Comes complete with cylinder and actuator, CO2 Cartridge, bottle bracket, cable, tubing, internal flex pick-up hose, and 2 nozzles Has a total filled weight of 7.4 lbs. Measures 13.25†long X 4.25†diameter (overall height is 5.5â€) Carries a 5-BC rating Is easily installed using twin pre-drilled mounts and stainless steel racing Marman clamps Is a non-pressurized system allowing for easy user refill VRO is offering FREE SHIPPING with every purchase of a FireCharger suppression system when you order a FireCharger system now through December 31, 2012. * Don’t forget – each purchase with VRO earns you rewards credits good toward future purchases with VRO (rewards credits expire 24 months from date of original purchase.) Prices for the Firecharger system are slated to increase January 1, 2013 so now is the time to take advantage of this unbeatable price for a 2.3L Fire Suppression system. VRO is preparing our first order with the manufacturer. If you are interested in a FireCharger, please call me at 800.377.0944, or email me at info@vro.com to place your order for the FireCharger. This item has not been added to our website yet, so please place your order via phone or email, thanks! * Free shipping on FireCharger system only. If combined with other items you will receive $15 off the total shipping charges for your entire order. Can not be combined with any other offer.
  7. 3.9.2. NOTE – EFFECTIVE 1 JANUARY 2014 – ALL CHUMPCAR COMPETITION VEHICLES MUST HAVE A SELF-CONTAINED, SINGLE-ACTION (PUSH-BUTTON OR PULL-HANDLE) FIRE SUPPRESSION SYSTEM INSTALLED. This is a one-year advance notice. Kudos to those of you who are asking VRO about the fire systems in preparation for the upcoming rules change! Many of you have asked me about fire systems ~~~ so here it is, sit tight fur just a bit longer, cuz VRO is currently working with some fire system manufacturers and hammerin' out some details to get you into a system. Only a couple more conversations with the guys who make these things and VRO will be ready to take your orders and start shipping 'em out. C'mon guys, you got a year to get ready! Seriously though, hold tight and I will post more details in a couple days. Just a few more pesky details to iron out....... Denise
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