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Found 7 results

  1. This is a 1996 Mustang GT convertible with a manual 5 speed. Roll cage is complete 100%. Cage was built by a fabricator who works for an established sportscar team in Mooresville, NC. Car was running and driving when we started the build but has since been torn down as you can see in the pictures. We were shooting for the 24 hour at VIR this year to be it's first race. However, plans have changed and this car needs to go to make room for the new race car! It is together enough to roll onto or into your trailer! I am asking $4900 for the car and all the parts I have for it. Most everything is there for this car to be assembled and go race. Will still need some minor fab work to finish though. Car is located in Salisbury, NC. Please be patient if you want to see in person as I travel for work and May is a busy month for me. Along with the car the following parts will be included still new in the box: Two sets of SKF U-joints with new straps Steering rack outer tie rods ball joints accufab fuel pressure regulator to allow dialable fuel pressure on stock fuel rail -6 adapter fittings to allow -6 AN line to attach to stock fuel rail front hubs and bearings 2in lowered front sway bar links power steering pump with pulley installed AC delete pulley alternator water pump 2in lowering kit (springs, shocks and struts) adjustable front camber plates Cobra R front brake kit ABS delete bypass block rear brakes (calipers, rotors, pads) all brake hoses fuel injectors o2 sensors thermostat intake gaskets throttle body gasket rear differential gasket fuel cell with can fuel cell cage started vdo gauges Ford performance oil cooler Haynes manual
  2. Helping a teammate sell our 2003 Focus SVT racecar we last used in late 2019. He has moved south of LA, doesn't have the space to keep the car and I've begun building up another car in another state for our team to use. I've raced it at Buttonwillow and helped with it's preparation so feel qualified to co-list it. Summary: Overall, the car is a solid, sorted mid-pack performer. With our best driver, it ran 2:21s at Buttonwillow Star Mazda (track configuration #1) under racing conditions, 2:20s certainly possible. This equates to about 2:14s on the more commonly used 13CW track configuration, but there are plenty of points available under Champ rules with which to dramatically improve speed. It never overheats and after we fixed the notoriously bad header and aging rubber lines, it's been reliable. It would take work to be really competitive (thought race organizers said we just suck as drivers), but it's proven to be predictable and easy to drive at the limit. Whether racing (ie. Champ), advancing your skills (ie. HPDS), or picking up a competition license (ie. SCCA), this should serve its next owners well. We bought the car 90% the way it is and then updated it to be Lemons (B-class) and ChampCar legal for 2019, with proper cage, fuel system, cut-off switches, interior/engine-bay fire suppression, etc. It should also be NASA and SCCA legal (the cage certainly is), but we didn't go through those rulebooks with a fine-toothed comb. Street legal in most US states (though not currently registered) with clear title in hand is helpful in driving the car to an alignment shop or pre-event shake-down testing. No significant accident history. ~99,000 miles, mostly street (with ~10 track event days). Links to YouTube Videos (please watch for thorough overview of the car): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJJsFjXSaRQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfkGkE6I9ZM Power/Drivetrain: 2.0 I4 Zetec with Cosworth Technologies heads (170HP), factory 6 speed transmission Engine runs well, transmission shifts smoothly Auxiliary aftermarket oil cooler with stainless braided lines The factory cat has been gutted, otherwise engine is stock -- Mobil 1 only Timing belt replaced in 2018 (only a few track events) Clutch replaced in 2018 (only a few track events since) Good battery in proper safety box with clear wiring and USB power ports Handling/Brakes: Ford performance shocks, Eibach springs and Swaybars, camber plates Carbotech pads and slotted rotors, stainless steel brake lines. Plenty of brake pad and rotor life left. Sparco 17x8 wheels with late-2019 DOT-legal 245/40-17 Bridgestone Potenza RE71R 200TW tires with one track day (~5 heat cycles) before being stored in climate controlled darkness (until recently) Safety: 1.75" DOM roll cage by TC Design is fantastic (full circumference, cross-braced, substantial bottom plates welded into the frame rails) Momo seat (Daytona model?) -- our team members varied 5'6" to 6'1" and were all able to pass tech inspection and drive it Firecharger rechargeable fire suppression system New belts in 2019 (good for ~4 more years) Other Notes: Cool suit setup with controller mount on the dash and cooler for quickly changing bags during enduro events It has a lot of weight reduction, many systems deleted Custom aluminum dash, all of the heavy guts of the factory dash have been removed No accident damage noted other than the dings noted in the video. Certainly no evidence of anything substantial. Lights, turn signals, windshield wiper work. Can supply some race data from our last event, including Racelogic data acquisition, so you can compare your speeds with our team's Included Spares: Various removed factory parts (e.g. rear window, wiper motor, etc.) can be sold to recoup some costs Some maintenance items we pre-bought Original alloy wheels with streetable (or practice only track) tires Optional: Not included in sale, but could be if you want to pay more and have a more complete racing setup Race Keeper HDX2 data acquisition system with 2 cameras (https://www.race-keeper.com/hdx2/) Racelogic VBox GPS based data acquisition system Cool suit control Drink holder (4) fuel cans
  3. My brother and I have racing fans for as long as I can remember. We have both ran in drag racing for a number of years and have eventually grown bored of it. I got into the endurance racing 5 years ago and have developed a love for it. See you in Daytona on the 25th. I never knew about Champcar until recently and we are working on prepping 1990 Ford Mustang to participate. I it obvious we are going to have questions since we are new to this. Here the first question for the moment. Are there any point values on things like removing the upper controls and using a torque with a pan hard bar or a watts link? Thank you
  4. Good day to all my fellow Chumpcar, err, Champcar folks! In a perfect world, there would be enough time to work, live and race, however, life tends to be less than ideal. With that said, it's come time to send all the parts and pieces accumulated over the past couple of years for the race car buils to the next man. included: Two Mustangs - a 1985 GT 5.0 and a 1990 GT 5.0, both are factory 5-speed cars have full suspension under them. The 1985 still has it's title and is mostly complete though gutted for build-out. the 1990 is missing the front fenders and drivers door. 1985 has the 7.5 and the 1990 has has 8.8 extra 8.8 rear end - trac-lok: 3.55 (fresh track-lok clutches) setup for disc brakes out of a Turbocoupe extra Turbocoupe front K-member with complete front suspension, steering rack and TC brakes(same diameter as SN95). two 2.3L Turbo engines (turbo-to-pan) out of 1988 Turbocoupes - both are complete and will need to be freshened. One has two events on it but might need a rod resized and the crank turned. Block, cylinder bores/pistons etc in great shape. Includes late model Ranger roller cam and followers. extra 2.3L EFI head compatible with turbo setup fresh from the machine shop with mild port work, fresh springs and bigger valves. two computers from the Turbo coupes including full wiring harness two SVO 4cyl T5 transmission - both in fully operable condition. CE mini-stock roll cage kikt with NASCAR style door bars. (not assembled, will likely need a bit of surface rust removed) 3-4 sets of foxbody wheels - at least two sets of factory snowflake 16x7 Partial exhaust system with Flowmaster muffler, etc., etc., etc. Anything else I find for the car will also go with it. Have several sets of used 245 and 225 Hoosier DOT slicks that go with them as well. There's likely 80%-85% of what one would need to complete a racer along with a plethora of spares. You'll need interior wiring, lights, seat, gauges, cool suit hardware, and random odds and ends. Would like to get $2000 for everything (might throw in the kitchen sink...) If you need a seat, I'm selling a new, never used 2015 18" Ultrashield HaloVS separately for $250. Might make a deal with the package list above. Thanks for looking and forward along and question you might have. *I'll take some picture this coming week.* Everything is located in Little Elm, Texas - halfway between Denton and McKinney.
  5. For Sale: 1992 Taurus SHO with title, modified for Lemons/Chumpcar circuits. Our last race with Chumpcar was at Gingerman in 2014. We ran for about two hours before we spun a rod bearing and parked the car. In 2016 we replaced the engine with one that had 120k miles. We ran the car around the block a few times to make sure we weren’t missing any important parts, but the car hasn't seen a track since the engine was replaced. Besides needing a front alignment, the car is more or less race ready. Again, our last race was only two hours long, so we still have brakes and tires for a weekend of racing. We are also selling our collection of spare parts which includes a spare rebuilt transmission and three corners worth of suspension. We would like to sell the parts and car together for $2300 OBO. We are only willing to sell the transmissions separately if the car is sold and they weren’t included as part of that sale. The car is located in central Iowa and we can negotiate pickup or deliver as part of an offer. What works: 2M Kenwood 2-way radio Power steering Power brakes Brake lights/ headlights Wipers OE Gauge cluster and aftermarket Oil, coolant and battery gauges Engine 5 speed transmission Cooling system Suspension is solid. No play in ball joints or tierod ends New front wheel bearings New timing belt/tensioner What needs love/zip ties/both Rocker panels and underside of the body is rusty. Floorboards sealed thanks to skin grafts from an old washing machine Two sets of used brakes and tires. Each set good enough for one full day of racing Driver side mirror broken Modifications: Progressive Lowering springs (1.5" in the front, 1" in the rear) Solid sub-frame mounts Adjustable rear brake proportioning valve Cobra front caliper/rotors Rear disc brakes Removed ABS manifold Moog problemsolver ball joints and tie rod ends Front Wheel bearings replaced every other race. New OE quality struts/mounts (<2 hours track time) Added steel rings to protect diff pins Four driving Lights Lighted side number lights Rear spoiler (adds at least 25 HP) Dual battery disconnects (One for Chump and one for Lemons) Battery mounted in trunk Fire suppression system (outlets facing driver and under hood) Corbeau racing seat Five point harness Kenwood 2M Ham radio Wide angle rear view mirror Four half used Dunlop direzza tires (Good for 1 7-hr race) Alloy wheels Removed rear glass and side windows Custom paint with helpful maintenance reminders like Add Oil Don't ride clutch Tighten lug nuts Don't lose wheel while racing Spare parts: Rebuilt 5-speed transmission. Race ready Second 5-speed. Parts Only Spare 3.0L engine, harness, and sensors. Bad rod bearing Alternator Two front knuckles with new wheel bearings Driver's side rear knuckle Both front axles Misc. control arms Spare lowering springs Spare OE springs Four spare used struts 2 Alloy wheels, match wheels on the car 4 half used tires for current wheels (Good for 1 7hr race); Match what’s on the car 4 alloy OE wheels Ford shop manuals
  6. 1984 Ford Mustang 5.0 - $3,500 Bought car for father/son project and we lost interest. Ran car one time at Road America. Finished second in class, averaged 3:15 lap time. The engine developed a miss towards the end of the event. Upgrades: 3:42 Gear T-5 Transmission Centerforce Clutch Fuel Surge Tank 18 Gallon Fuel Cell QA1 Shocks Lots of Spares For inquires call or text Scott Graham at 920-493-2019
  7. SCT Livewire tuner for Ford vehicles. This is the "old" LiveWire, NOT the fancy TS model. It is unmarried with three "unlocks" left. Comes with OBD cable, but no mounts or packaging. Bought off ebay, found it works perfectly for older cars but not mine, so I'm passing it on. Includes canned tunes and adjustments for Mustangs 1996-2004 ... It does NOT have canned files for the 05 and up, but it *could* be used to upload email tunes which you can get from multiple online tuners, anywhere from $95 and up. $175 shipped anywhere in the US.
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