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Found 18 results

  1. I'm posting this as a service to Focus teams. I am drumming up interest in a "group buy" to purchase aftermarket, unbreakable front hubs. It seems that more Foci are joining the series. One of the Focus' weak links is it's front hubs, which are prone to breaking when subjected to high loading. I've got a whole picture folder called "Focus Hubs" that has multiple pictures of other folks' broken hubs. Just as the tags above say, when this happens, you can lose a wheel, the axle shaft breaks off at the spline, and sometimes caliper and caliper bracket damage occurs. In severe cases, I've talked to guys that have had crashes due to hub breakage. There are a lot of different theories on the cause (which I won't get into here), but I decided that I was going to solve the issue before it happened to us. I did some extensive searching, made a lot of Foci contacts through various forums and at the tracks, and consider myself well educated on this issue. There are 2 companies that have built 4340 billet hubs that have corrected the inherent problem with the factory hubs. To date, 1 company has sold approximately 18 sets of these, and the other company has sold 10 sets. No failures have been reported on any of these hubs. I showed pictures of the hubs (each company's are unique) to head tech Phil McKinney in Spring 2017, and got a value of 10 pts/side for a non OE suspension part. There are several teams I know of in Champ that are running these hubs, (and hopefully claiming them!), as I pointed them in the direction to obtain them. Each team balked when I gave them the price - until they broke enough hubs, axles, etc, and lost valuable track time - then the price made sense, and they antied up for them. Neither company advertises these hubs, they were only made up because the owner needed them for his and his friends' cars, or someone contracted the 2nd shop to do a special run of these. I've tried the "start from scratch" approach and asked several machine shops what it would cost to duplicate them. Each response was much more expensive to create these than the 2 firms that have done so already. As I said, I'm doing this as a service to other Focus teams, as I already have a few sets of these hubs that I'm keeping for myself. If you are interested in a set of these hubs, please PM me for more info. Each place will only do a minimum run of 10-12 parts, so you won't be able to get them on your own unless you plan to order that many.
  2. For sale, brand new HANS 3 M, with mounting anchors. $425 shipped anywhere in the US. Never used, still has tags and carrying bag.
  3. Hey everyone, I may be posting this a little late, but I am wondering about the rule regarding the X-Brace door bar design. NASA tech approves the 'x' design without gussets and as far as I am aware, if it will pass NASA tech, then it should pass ChampCar tech, correct? I can get the gussets put in, but if the answer is a definitive "it will pass", then I'd rather spend my time doing other things. Here is a picture of the door bar as it stands, right now (the driver's side is identical):
  4. I pulled this out of the other thread on harness expiration. I'm hoping @Mopar 63 and/or @chisek could chime in and maybe add the official response on these to the Technical Q&A forum? The valid date/expiration date is explicitly called out for certain components in the 2018 BCCR, but not for others. There have been reports of items being rejected as expired by Tech @ the racetrack. I'm hoping these can be clarified for everybody (including the tech inspectors) Series wide. In July of 2016 (per the post from @chisek) a petition was submitted to the board to formalize the expiration of harnesses (and window nets) to a 2 year expiration. As far as I can tell that petition was *NOT* accepted. (Editorial comment: thank goodness, 2 years is way too often for our level of racing IMHO) The BCCR for 2018 *specifically* calls out the expiration of harnesses in their own subsection (BCCR 3.4). Harnesses expire December 31st 4 years after date of manufacture for SFI-only rated, December 31st of dated year of expiration for FIA. That is in 3.4 (harnesses) ONLY. This one is clear! The separate subsection on window nets and arm restraints (BCCR 3.5) does NOT state any expiration term. *When* do other SFI items expire? 4 years, same as harnesses? The section on helmets (BCCR 3.10) states a specific date range (SA2010 or newer) for helmets but states that helmet restraint systems (HANS) must only be of FIA or SFI approved type (no date range/expiration called out) Helmets are clear, HANS are not. *When* do HANS tethers expire (assuming its just the tethers and not the $500+ dollar collar)? 4 years, same as harnesses? The section of suits (BCCR 3.11) *specifically* states that they do NOT expire but must be maintained in good condition. This one is clear! Fuel cells, if installed, must be SFI or FIA rated (as required by BCCR 9.10.2.3 ). Fuel cells DO NOT expire if maintained in good working order?
  5. So I had an incident last Sunday that could have been real bad. Actually, scratch that, it involved a fire so it was real bad, but it could have been much worse. I'm going to share some of the details with the chump community so hopefully this does not happen to anyone else, especially since the specific issue did not seem to come up in the previous few threads about battery containers and hold down straps. So what happened? At our last race (Laguna Seca in July) we had a CV joint bushing explode on Saturday, which smothered our alternator to death in axle grease, which lead to us swapping the battery in and out of the car a few times during the race on Sunday (we didn't have a spare alternator, but we did have a bunch of vehicles in the paddock with perfectly good batteries...). After the race, we put the original battery back in the car, but in the rush to get everything packed up and get home it seems that we did not attach both ends of the metal battery tie down strip. I towed the car home (2 hours) that night and put the car in the garage, no issue with the battery. I spent the last two months going through our todo list for the car (alternator replacement, led trailer lights, new dashboard, etc.), no issue with the battery. I towed the car one hour to one of my teammates house last Sunday, I get out to unload the car from the trailer and everything on the car is fine except... there is a pile of burnt and melted plastic sitting in a pool of acid where the battery used to be. Everything else was fine, didn't melt or even darken the lexan rear hatch. What (do I think) was the root cause? So I'm posting before and after photos. The before is from a few years ago when we first built our box. You can see we have two long bolts which are connected to a metal plate below the box and attached to a metal plate with wingnuts. It's not shown here, but we also had rubber battery terminal covers over both posts, and a lid that snapped in place. As you can see in the after photo, the metal plate (which is grounded, since it's attached to the frame) slid to the right, under the rubber terminal cover, and shorted the battery. Search for "car battery short fire" on youtube if you want to know what happened after that. What should we all do about it? Never leave your battery unattached, especially when moving the car, especially if you are securing your battery with a system like we were using here. Don't assume those rubber or plastic terminal covers will protect you from a short. We tend to focus on safety during the race and relax afterwards, but this is something that can happen at anytime if you make a mistake like this. I'm going to add this to my checklist whenever I move the car now. Now that we have to rebuild our battery box, I'm thinking of ways we can design a mount where this can't happen. Maybe a hinge secured with multiple bolts on one side so the strap can't rotate, or covering the strap completely with an insulator. Looking for thoughts or ideas, preferably with photos of everyone else's much more secure unburnt battery boxes.
  6. Looking for harness alternatives... if they exist! Schroth Enduro obviously are awesome, and the Profi 6H. Racetech makes one that looks nice also. But when they start at $360 and shoot up to almost $600, it's tough. Any alternatives to those three for a camlock, HANS, 2" lap belt FIA harness? Yes, I know that's a big ask, I'm picky!
  7. A couple of old and/or inconsequential threads inspired me to collect some thoughts in a place that people are likely to find it. I will start with the high level point and then include some supporting info. A shout out to @skierman64 and @Hi_Im_Will for their input on this. SUMMARY: All car owners that don't have rear "glass" installed (i.e. lexan) should strongly consider installing it. Reasons: It may save a life. The lack of side and rear windows causes the windshield to create a low pressure area where the driver is sitting and can suck fire (or Carbon Monoxide) into the cockpit. This isn't a hypothetical - both have happened and one of them was a very close call. Had the car owner not been young, nimble, and very familiar with his car, he would have been badly injured or killed. It may make your car faster. In almost all cases, you will reduce drag by putting the rear "glass" back in. (Note, I am not talking about cars that have no front "glass"). It drastically reduces the amount of rain/mist that swirls into the cockpit, and will make driving in wet conditions safer and more enjoyable. There are reasons why the rules used to tell you to remove your glass, but events that have happened since then have provided data to suggest that the reasoning was misguided. I'm not going to write a novel on that - you can find it in other posts if you choose to look for it. I wasn't sure if just putting the back window in would do the job, so I consulted with Will. He shot me a bunch of impressive stuff and an interpretation that said having the side glass gave some benefit, but the vast majority of the benefit could be gained by the installation of just the rear glass. Here is the link to what happens if you don't have any glass other than the windshield and you have a fire: Here is some more of the backstory. It was posted in an E36 thread so I can't imagine very many people were reading it @skierman64 added this to the thread: "Oh, while you're at it, make sure all the holes in your firewall are sealed with some kind of metal or at least metallic tape. There was a under hood fire at COTA last year that got into the cabin of the car through firewall holes. The driver suffered some significant burns due to someone not prepping the car properly and sealing up firewall holes before the race." Here is the link to that incident, as well as a thread that went into the topic pretty well http://sopwithmotorsports.com/blog/short-track-racing/item/342-trapped-in-a-burning-race-car-part-i.html If you decide to blow off the suggestion, you may still want to consider getting this for your cockpit (thanks @Jamie). It will let your driver figure out whether or not the stuff coming into the cockpit will kill him (not fire, Carbon Monoxide) https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Multi-Level-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B003UDAHIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488932145&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+monoxide+detector+for+car My final safety item for the evening: I saw a car at VIR that had the fuel filler almost straight above the side-exhaust pipe. I assume they located the filler there (it wasn't the stock location) because they wanted to have the filler on the side nearest the pit wall (most tracks, that will be the passenger side). I assume they decided to exit the exhaust on the passenger side because it made for slightly less noise for the driver. Both decisions make sense when made alone, but when the inevitable "small spill" occurs we will have a very ugly situation on our hands. Please look at your car and make sure you aren't at risk for what follows below (OK so I MIGHT have exaggerated on this one!) In all seriousness, if the spill happens and a small fire ball erupts, the gas man could drop the dump can which would provide a LARGE fire ball that could affect a lot of people.
  8. I am in the bad habit of not hydrating while in the car, and after 2 hours I definitely start to notice it even though I down a couple bottles of H2O before getting in the car. The current setup we have for our car is to have a tube coming over my shoulder with a bite valve on it, but finding that tube with gloves on and having enough time to get it past my balaclava on the straights has been tough for me so far. I want to modify my helmet with a hole drilled into the front like the big boys in ALMS /Grant Am /Nascar, and run a tube with a quick disconnect back to the tube that goes to the bottle. My concerns are mainly with the integrity of the helmet and keeping the helmet Chump-tech-able. Anyone here done anything like this? Would a 1/4" hole in the front/ chin area cause enough structural integrity loss to lose the safety rating of the helmet? I asked the guy that manages the Stephenson Motorsport Camaro Team in Grand-Am and he said they just drill their helmets, but without some kind of instruction on whether this is ok or not I am a little hesitant to modify my helmet and have it not be usable. Thanks, -Chris
  9. For sale is a set of HANS Professional Post Clip Anchors part # AK1132.12S. Silver Color. Comes with the backplate nut washers for helmets without threaded holes. Bought to use while borrowing a HANS for only ONE race. $50 shipped to 48 states. Paypal preferred. Paypal is brosiusp@gmail.com. Will be at AMP race on 10/31 (Halloween!) if someone would rather pickup there. http://www.jegs.com/i/HANS-Performance-Products/489/AK1132-12S/10002/-1?parentProductId=1667921 http://simpsonraceproducts.com/head-neck-restraints/professional-post-clip-anchors/
  10. I have several items for sale. All of the following is new and never used and/or never opened. Fuel Safe Sportsman SM110 10gal. fuel cell $900+shipping http://www.fuelsafe.com/store/sm110.html Kirkey 36300 20* layback 15" seat. and 36312 Seat cover(red) $240+shipping Kirkey Racing Deluxe add-on full containment Head & shoulder restraint kit w/ red covers $400+shipping Get both for $600+shipping https://www.kirkeyracing.com/product/10/36300/SEAT-ALUMINUM-15-INTERMEDIATE-20-LAYBACK Canton Accusump 2qt #24-026 SOLD Canton Accusump Electric valve kit #24-270 SOLD Canton Accusump check valve #24-280 SOLD Get all 3 for SOLD Hawk HP+ HB158n.515 (2 sets) fits various Mazdas $80/each+shipping http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/hb158n515 ARP Wheel studs 100-7703 (4 cards) 1/4-20 Ford/Chrysler $15/each or $50 for all 4 +shipping http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=63 Generic battery/Alt. (Pegasus?) cutoff switch $30 Pictures of everything are located below Items will ship from Dayton, OH area via FedEx or USPS. I'll be glad to meet/deliver halfway anywhere in the Dayton/Columbus/Cincinnati/Indianapolis areas. I'll trim items from this post as they are sold. Email me @ ekimdam at gmail .com I'll gladly share phone # over email if need be. -Mike J. Helm RSm Driver
  11. Regarding seats- can the FIA certification be expired? Is a seat back brace required for an expired one piece RaceTech seat with no sliders? Harnesses- I understand a 5, 6, or 7 point is required, and that the date of manufacture/expiration must be present. They must also be current, or can the harnesses be expired? Thanks for the help! Going to continue REreading the rules. Hunts
  12. Large inventory of used Nascar parts: 9" Ford ring & pinions, brake pads new and used, all types of ducting, electric fans, braided hose and hose ends, aluminum seats, exhaust parts, coolers, radiators, lots more. You can buy some really good parts and have substantial savings at the same time. Inquire and I will send pictures.
  13. Hey All, I am looking to fix a part of our roll cage and was told either to replace the whole bar or to sleeve it. I just wanted to know what you use as the sleeve, I've seen the bolt kits on some cage websites, but I assume a weld in piece would be better. If you are a cage builder pm me and I can send you a picture of what we are trying to do. Just looking for some advice on wether we can sleeve this part or should get a new bar installed. Cheers,
  14. where do you mount the anti submarine strap, to the sliders? to the seat? or do you have to mount it to the car? how does that work if you slide the seat forward and back? Also if a seat is on sliders do the sliders have to lock on both sides? i have seen some teams with the rear seat brace, is that what keeps the seat from sliding forward? Cheers,
  15. Ive been looking for a helmet to buy and have seen these Zamp FSA-2 full face. Anyone tried a Zamp? They are sa2010 so they cant be that bad can they?
  16. I know this has been discussed a lot and i have read many threads but keep getting lost in the info. I am heading up a new team/car and trying to get as much info to decrease the amount of money/time that may be wasted. We got a 90' CRX and have decided it to be the platform. i know buying one already caged is the best idea but i got the car for a song. I wanted to know about the cages on rollcagecomponents.com. they seem to be the only ones who have some sort of Chump endorsement. First off i'm trying to deceifer the difference between all the cages they offers. they all have the same makes listed but have different specs for the tubing used with different prices. and secondly if anyone has used their products? any information or advice would be great. with all of us in our 20's we are pretty broke so we are trying to be value concious "cheap". we were at the race at Road Atlanta with it being in our backyard and decided we have to give it a shot.
  17. The off-season is jetting by, and it's the perfect time to install a fire system in your Chumpcar. No, it's not required until 2014, but you're going to have to do it anyway, so why not get the benefit of additional safety now? We offer a 4lb SPA Technique AFFF foam system, FIA Homologated, with 6 discharge nozzles, for $325. I can promise you that is the best deal you will find, and its just for Chumps. Check it out at our web site: www.racingfiresystems.com
  18. As you know, fire systems are mandatory starting January 2014. As soon as I saw the new rule, I started looking for the best deal on quality fire equipment for Chumps. What I discovered, in my opinion, was that SPA Techniques offered the best value/quality combination I could find. The systems are FIA and SFI certified, and there's a system for every budget. They're standard equipment on racers like Porsche GT3 Cup cars. Then, I got in touch with SPA and told them what I wanted to do...to bring their product within reach of every ChumpCar team's budget. I'm proud to say that SPA was very supportive and enthusiastic about being a part of the grassroots racing community. They made it possible for me to offer their systems at even better prices to all you chumps. So....go to the website and check it out....2.25 liter AFFF system for $265. 4.0 liter AFFF system (2 liters to both the engine and the driver...twice the protection of "bargain" systems)...$325. Comparable systems sell for almost $500. www.racingfiresystems.com
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