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Found 8 results

  1. What safety film do most people use when retaining the rear glass in their race car? Rule 9.1.2 says "Rear glass may remain in the car provided it is covered by a clear safety window film (not tape, not tint). Example: 3M Scotchshield." I'm building a 2002 (NB) Miata race car using an OEM hard top, which has concave rear glass, which we want to keep. Has anybody successfully put safety/security film on their rear glass? I'm getting a quote of $500(!) from a local tint business to put film on that one piece of glass, and most security film I've been able to find online seems to be for flat windows (building windows) only. Also, I don't know if security film can be heat formed onto glass like a vinyl wrap. If not, a DIY installation could turn out horribly. Any advice or insights would be appreciated. -Marc
  2. I'm posting this as a service to Focus teams. I am drumming up interest in a "group buy" to purchase aftermarket, unbreakable front hubs. It seems that more Foci are joining the series. One of the Focus' weak links is it's front hubs, which are prone to breaking when subjected to high loading. I've got a whole picture folder called "Focus Hubs" that has multiple pictures of other folks' broken hubs. Just as the tags above say, when this happens, you can lose a wheel, the axle shaft breaks off at the spline, and sometimes caliper and caliper bracket damage occurs. In severe cases, I've talked to guys that have had crashes due to hub breakage. There are a lot of different theories on the cause (which I won't get into here), but I decided that I was going to solve the issue before it happened to us. I did some extensive searching, made a lot of Foci contacts through various forums and at the tracks, and consider myself well educated on this issue. There are 2 companies that have built 4340 billet hubs that have corrected the inherent problem with the factory hubs. To date, 1 company has sold approximately 18 sets of these, and the other company has sold 10 sets. No failures have been reported on any of these hubs. I showed pictures of the hubs (each company's are unique) to head tech Phil McKinney in Spring 2017, and got a value of 10 pts/side for a non OE suspension part. There are several teams I know of in Champ that are running these hubs, (and hopefully claiming them!), as I pointed them in the direction to obtain them. Each team balked when I gave them the price - until they broke enough hubs, axles, etc, and lost valuable track time - then the price made sense, and they antied up for them. Neither company advertises these hubs, they were only made up because the owner needed them for his and his friends' cars, or someone contracted the 2nd shop to do a special run of these. I've tried the "start from scratch" approach and asked several machine shops what it would cost to duplicate them. Each response was much more expensive to create these than the 2 firms that have done so already. As I said, I'm doing this as a service to other Focus teams, as I already have a few sets of these hubs that I'm keeping for myself. If you are interested in a set of these hubs, please PM me for more info. Each place will only do a minimum run of 10-12 parts, so you won't be able to get them on your own unless you plan to order that many.
  3. For sale, brand new HANS 3 M, with mounting anchors. $425 shipped anywhere in the US. Never used, still has tags and carrying bag.
  4. Hey everyone, I may be posting this a little late, but I am wondering about the rule regarding the X-Brace door bar design. NASA tech approves the 'x' design without gussets and as far as I am aware, if it will pass NASA tech, then it should pass ChampCar tech, correct? I can get the gussets put in, but if the answer is a definitive "it will pass", then I'd rather spend my time doing other things. Here is a picture of the door bar as it stands, right now (the driver's side is identical):
  5. I pulled this out of the other thread on harness expiration. I'm hoping @Mopar 63 and/or @chisek could chime in and maybe add the official response on these to the Technical Q&A forum? The valid date/expiration date is explicitly called out for certain components in the 2018 BCCR, but not for others. There have been reports of items being rejected as expired by Tech @ the racetrack. I'm hoping these can be clarified for everybody (including the tech inspectors) Series wide. In July of 2016 (per the post from @chisek) a petition was submitted to the board to formalize the expiration of harnesses (and window nets) to a 2 year expiration. As far as I can tell that petition was *NOT* accepted. (Editorial comment: thank goodness, 2 years is way too often for our level of racing IMHO) The BCCR for 2018 *specifically* calls out the expiration of harnesses in their own subsection (BCCR 3.4). Harnesses expire December 31st 4 years after date of manufacture for SFI-only rated, December 31st of dated year of expiration for FIA. That is in 3.4 (harnesses) ONLY. This one is clear! The separate subsection on window nets and arm restraints (BCCR 3.5) does NOT state any expiration term. *When* do other SFI items expire? 4 years, same as harnesses? The section on helmets (BCCR 3.10) states a specific date range (SA2010 or newer) for helmets but states that helmet restraint systems (HANS) must only be of FIA or SFI approved type (no date range/expiration called out) Helmets are clear, HANS are not. *When* do HANS tethers expire (assuming its just the tethers and not the $500+ dollar collar)? 4 years, same as harnesses? The section of suits (BCCR 3.11) *specifically* states that they do NOT expire but must be maintained in good condition. This one is clear! Fuel cells, if installed, must be SFI or FIA rated (as required by BCCR ). Fuel cells DO NOT expire if maintained in good working order?
  6. So I had an incident last Sunday that could have been real bad. Actually, scratch that, it involved a fire so it was real bad, but it could have been much worse. I'm going to share some of the details with the chump community so hopefully this does not happen to anyone else, especially since the specific issue did not seem to come up in the previous few threads about battery containers and hold down straps. So what happened? At our last race (Laguna Seca in July) we had a CV joint bushing explode on Saturday, which smothered our alternator to death in axle grease, which lead to us swapping the battery in and out of the car a few times during the race on Sunday (we didn't have a spare alternator, but we did have a bunch of vehicles in the paddock with perfectly good batteries...). After the race, we put the original battery back in the car, but in the rush to get everything packed up and get home it seems that we did not attach both ends of the metal battery tie down strip. I towed the car home (2 hours) that night and put the car in the garage, no issue with the battery. I spent the last two months going through our todo list for the car (alternator replacement, led trailer lights, new dashboard, etc.), no issue with the battery. I towed the car one hour to one of my teammates house last Sunday, I get out to unload the car from the trailer and everything on the car is fine except... there is a pile of burnt and melted plastic sitting in a pool of acid where the battery used to be. Everything else was fine, didn't melt or even darken the lexan rear hatch. What (do I think) was the root cause? So I'm posting before and after photos. The before is from a few years ago when we first built our box. You can see we have two long bolts which are connected to a metal plate below the box and attached to a metal plate with wingnuts. It's not shown here, but we also had rubber battery terminal covers over both posts, and a lid that snapped in place. As you can see in the after photo, the metal plate (which is grounded, since it's attached to the frame) slid to the right, under the rubber terminal cover, and shorted the battery. Search for "car battery short fire" on youtube if you want to know what happened after that. What should we all do about it? Never leave your battery unattached, especially when moving the car, especially if you are securing your battery with a system like we were using here. Don't assume those rubber or plastic terminal covers will protect you from a short. We tend to focus on safety during the race and relax afterwards, but this is something that can happen at anytime if you make a mistake like this. I'm going to add this to my checklist whenever I move the car now. Now that we have to rebuild our battery box, I'm thinking of ways we can design a mount where this can't happen. Maybe a hinge secured with multiple bolts on one side so the strap can't rotate, or covering the strap completely with an insulator. Looking for thoughts or ideas, preferably with photos of everyone else's much more secure unburnt battery boxes.
  7. Looking for harness alternatives... if they exist! Schroth Enduro obviously are awesome, and the Profi 6H. Racetech makes one that looks nice also. But when they start at $360 and shoot up to almost $600, it's tough. Any alternatives to those three for a camlock, HANS, 2" lap belt FIA harness? Yes, I know that's a big ask, I'm picky!
  8. A couple of old and/or inconsequential threads inspired me to collect some thoughts in a place that people are likely to find it. I will start with the high level point and then include some supporting info. A shout out to @skierman64 and @Hi_Im_Will for their input on this. SUMMARY: All car owners that don't have rear "glass" installed (i.e. lexan) should strongly consider installing it. Reasons: It may save a life. The lack of side and rear windows causes the windshield to create a low pressure area where the driver is sitting and can suck fire (or Carbon Monoxide) into the cockpit. This isn't a hypothetical - both have happened and one of them was a very close call. Had the car owner not been young, nimble, and very familiar with his car, he would have been badly injured or killed. It may make your car faster. In almost all cases, you will reduce drag by putting the rear "glass" back in. (Note, I am not talking about cars that have no front "glass"). It drastically reduces the amount of rain/mist that swirls into the cockpit, and will make driving in wet conditions safer and more enjoyable. There are reasons why the rules used to tell you to remove your glass, but events that have happened since then have provided data to suggest that the reasoning was misguided. I'm not going to write a novel on that - you can find it in other posts if you choose to look for it. I wasn't sure if just putting the back window in would do the job, so I consulted with Will. He shot me a bunch of impressive stuff and an interpretation that said having the side glass gave some benefit, but the vast majority of the benefit could be gained by the installation of just the rear glass. Here is the link to what happens if you don't have any glass other than the windshield and you have a fire: Here is some more of the backstory. It was posted in an E36 thread so I can't imagine very many people were reading it @skierman64 added this to the thread: "Oh, while you're at it, make sure all the holes in your firewall are sealed with some kind of metal or at least metallic tape. There was a under hood fire at COTA last year that got into the cabin of the car through firewall holes. The driver suffered some significant burns due to someone not prepping the car properly and sealing up firewall holes before the race." Here is the link to that incident, as well as a thread that went into the topic pretty well http://sopwithmotorsports.com/blog/short-track-racing/item/342-trapped-in-a-burning-race-car-part-i.html If you decide to blow off the suggestion, you may still want to consider getting this for your cockpit (thanks @Jamie). It will let your driver figure out whether or not the stuff coming into the cockpit will kill him (not fire, Carbon Monoxide) https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Multi-Level-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B003UDAHIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488932145&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+monoxide+detector+for+car My final safety item for the evening: I saw a car at VIR that had the fuel filler almost straight above the side-exhaust pipe. I assume they located the filler there (it wasn't the stock location) because they wanted to have the filler on the side nearest the pit wall (most tracks, that will be the passenger side). I assume they decided to exit the exhaust on the passenger side because it made for slightly less noise for the driver. Both decisions make sense when made alone, but when the inevitable "small spill" occurs we will have a very ugly situation on our hands. Please look at your car and make sure you aren't at risk for what follows below (OK so I MIGHT have exaggerated on this one!) In all seriousness, if the spill happens and a small fire ball erupts, the gas man could drop the dump can which would provide a LARGE fire ball that could affect a lot of people.
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