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Hello all, We had a driver and crewmember drop out for the VIR24 due to some personal issues and wanted to open it up to the forum to see if anyone was looking for some stints. The #380 Tim & Aaron Racing 325 BMW is podium-capable race winner that is a reliably built/maintained C-class entry, sponsored by Wilbert's U-Pull It. The team have been racing this specific platform for 3 seasons successfully, and we've been racing for many years prior so have lots of experience in car prep, strategy, and obviously the on-track work. Due to our dropout, we have up to three stints available, but you certainly don't need to buy all three if you don't want to. If you're interested in either driving or crewing, please contact myself here on the forums or Tim. Look forward to hearing from you guys!
After spending WAAAYYYY to much time and money on headlights for the 14H MIS and Gingerman races last year, and the VIR 24H this year, I thought I'd share what I've learned about racecar headlamps. This comes from spending too much time staring at the Hella catalog, pictures of LeMans racers front ends, advice from @Jamie and talking to some lighting consultants. Everything here will fit within Chump's rules. Note, this is a little biased towards replacements for 5.75" sealed beams, since that is what originally came on the E30. 1. Don't waste your time and money on Halogen Halogen works as a cornering light, and that's about it. I use two Cibie Flat Face 5.75" lamps with Philips xtreme vision +130 H1 bulbs for the apexes, and they are passable. They are also the nicest, brightest, best pattern 5.75" beam legal in ChumpCar. You may get a hair brighter with a 7" housing, but don't count on it. H4 is trash. H9 90mm modular lamps may work for corner lamps, and seem to be popular as DRLs on IMSA PC and GTD cars, but are not sufficient as driving beams. You will waste your money using Halogen for anything more than a corner lamp. 2. Good LEDs are expensive Ebay LED lamps will have a terrible beam pattern and will overstate their luminosity, which can quickly get you a junk lamp that says it is at the limit of Chumps rules. Rigid Industries seems to make some good lamps, but I'll have to have @Jamie or somebody else chime in on the model numbers. Also, there is a large difference between the raw and measured lumen output on LEDs - if you can't find the measured number, the lamp is probably junk. There are also some LED beams showing up in professional racing such as these. I've also had the JW Speaker 8630 recommended to me, and while it looks like a solid contender, I ended up going with xenon instead. Aston with unknown headlamps and LazerLamps triple-r 750 3. Xenon is amazing These get expensive, but Xenon is where it's at. Spend a lot of time staring at the front ends of professional racers, and you will see two lamps over and over again - the Hella FF200 Xenon and the Hella 90mm Xenon High Beam Classic. There is a good reason for this. We ran 2 of the FF200 Xenons at VIR, and they were fantastic. Good visibility at well past 200 yards, and a wide pattern that does a decent job of illuminating the apexes. 100% worth the money, and your night will be miserable with anything less powerful. Corvette C7R. Note two Hella FF200 Xenon (larger lamps) and one Hella Xenon High Beam Classic (smaller lamp) per side. 4. Watch out for HID retrofits HID retrofit kits get mixed reviews. They may work if you spend the money on a nice one, and some of the OEM D1s or D2s based headlamps from a junkyard car are good options if you replace the bulbs. However, watch out for the ebay and tuner kits - you get what you pay for. As an interesting observation, the FF200s and High Beam Classics are reflector based instead of lens based - I can't help but wonder if the lens is not the best solution for HID racing lamps, and only exists on production cars to enable the sharp cutoff. 5. Make sure your wiring is sufficient 16 ga wire will handle the current for a 55W lamp just fine. That does not mean the voltage drop will be acceptable. Especially if you must use Halogen (for cornering, etc) make sure you use short wire runs and thick gauge. On my car switching from 16ga to 12ga was worth a volt across the lamp. An entire volt, as in one of the 12 was missing with 16ga wire. That's a lot of missing power. I'm too lazy to work out whether the power loss there is proportional to voltage squared or just voltage right now, but its bad, m'kay? Also, use circuit breakers instead of fuses on your lights, so that if one fails you still have some functionality. 6. Putting it all together We ended up running two Hella FF200 Xenons pointed almost straight ahead (~5 degrees spread) and two Cibie 5.75" flat face H1s pointed outboard ~30 degrees. We used the stock headlight buckets, with lots of modification. If I did it again, the FF200s would definitely make a repeat appearance, but with maybe something a bit more powerful for the cornering lights. The Rigid D2 Wide looks promising if I can prove that the limit is on measured lumens, not raw... Happy Lighting!
36hr Flash Presale - Ends at 11:59 PM Tomorrow (August 6th) It's that time of the year again, and this year we are bringing back the full setup for your viewing pleasure. We will have our tent setup in the paddock with shots loading throughout the sprint and enduro races, however if you want the most photos (added to our "BOLO - Be on the Lookout" List), and want them for the best value, then signing up now is highly recommended. http://www.awolphoto.com/product/chumpcarvir Breakdown on Savings of Prebuy vs. At the Track Enduro Race Photos: $20 cheaper with prebuy. Enduro + Spring Race Photos: $35 cheaper with prebuy. Additional Banners / Prints also discounted with prebuy option. We look forward to seeing everyone at the track, we are fully stocked with Twizzlers and Coozies, stop by and pick up a couple! Also, we have a limited amount of AWOL Photo decals if you want to add some hidden horsepower to your car! Thanks as always for the support, we'll see you trackside soon! - Eric