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Are my door bars enough?

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Looking at cage layout on my next project... I think the pads for the main and hoop and foward down bars will need to be at different heights. The main hoop will be on top of the "frame rail" box where the rear seat is and thr front will go to the floorpan.


In this case would you reccomend i put a bend in the sill bar so it follows the floor for most of its length, or should i make it straight, diagonal and not parallel to the floor? I think the bend given all the tie in bars would be strong enough, and i want the sill bar as close to the floor as possible. 


So a bend to best meet floor or door sill or mega straight? Sort of like the question of curving out side impact bars.



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Of course it is still a good idea to have one, but If I am reading the rules correctly the cage may not need a sill bar.  Am I understanding the rule correctly?  It looks like the gap between the arrows below is less than 10 inches. If the distance, measured at any point between the highest portion of the door sill or floor pan (whichever is higher) and the lowest edge of lower door bar is greater than ten inches (10”), a floor or lower-sill intrusion bar (labeled “8”), mounted as low as possible on each side of the roll-cage, at or just above the door sill, joining the front vertical legs and the main hoop is required.



arrow cage.jpg

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Some of the cage verbiage contradicts itself with respect to having too many cage tie-in points, but the discussion has come up in the forums before and I’ve talked to Phil at the track. I’m not directly quoting Phil, but the general response from Chump has been as long as it is clearly for safety and not for performance/stiffening purposes, then extra bars and/or tie in points are deemed ok.


I landed two sill bars. The plate I used added a total of 6 lbs to the car, totally worth the added intrusion protection. 




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